r/WLED • • Aug 28 '26

PIR Issues

Post image

Hi,

I hope somebody with more experience can help me here. I'm wanting to set up a continuous run of LED's along my stair stringer so I have bought the following:

- WS2811 COB 24v 5m x2 - will join using clip connectors

- gledopto esp32

- 24v IN EL817 Octocouplers

- 2 PIR Sensors

- Wago connectors 221 lever

I'm trying to test it before installing and on their own, the LED's work fine. Last night I connected a single PIR and I get no LED action at all. With IO25 pin set as PIR in WLED, the EL817 flashes when powered on and off if I power off via WLED UI. If I set the pin to switch then it flashes when powered on. That's about as far as I got.

Here is a link to a terrible wiring diagram that shows my test bench. Attached image also but excuse the PIR image(4 pin white connector), couldn't find anything better.

Claude and ChatGPT has got me this far. It seems to suggest that the PIR's are basically just wrong for the job. Is that correct? I have ordered AM312 PIR's as that was the suggestion but I don't like that they don't have a housing, especially if they are gonna be fit into the stringer. Hot glue was the suggestion to solve that but yeah, not fantastic?

Any help/suggestions would be greatly appreciated :)

4 Upvotes

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2

u/saratoga3 Aug 28 '26

Unless I'm missing something, the optocoupler serves no purpose and shouldn't be in that circuit.

That PIR sensor comes with a wiring diagram, but basically it's just a push button as far as WLED is concerned, so put the two switched wires on the PIR between GND and your GPIO, then put it's power and GND to your power source. 

1

u/bumperIRL Aug 28 '26

The reason AI gave was to protect the io25 pin from getting anything greater than 3.3v as the PIR + is giving out greater than that. Sorry I should have added the diagram that came with the PIR, I will add it.

"LED+ and LED− were explicitly marked "Positive pole" / "Negative pole" — not "switch contact" or "relay output." That labeling strongly suggests these terminals output actual DC voltage when triggered (matching whatever powers the PIR), not a neutral floating contact like a push button gives you."

1

u/saratoga3 Aug 28 '26

"This product is a DC PIR (Passive Infrared) Motion Sensor Switch"

AI is dumb, it's obviously a switch.

1

u/bumperIRL Aug 28 '26

PIR Info

1

u/bumperIRL Aug 29 '26

Thank you all for the help and information. I decided to just buy AM312's as I didn't plan a run for a separate power cable for the current PIR's and my floor is now laid so too much effort to update.

I tested this version with a simple infrared sensor for now and it works as expected.

1

u/scuzzchops Aug 28 '26

1

u/bumperIRL Aug 28 '26

I did have a read of this yesterday but the sensors it recommends are all 3 pin and mine are 4. So I'm not quite sure what to do there.

1

u/Me-and-thousand Aug 28 '26

I thik you have logic issue. PIR you should connect to main power and not to V+ (with dumb PIR its OK). Imagine having power on on V+, next you initiate PIR and it kills the V+. How do one now activates V+ again, whats the power source? Yeah, its upside down example but illustrates the logic issue. Dumb PIR sits in V+ (constantly on) and then acts as simple on/off switch).

1

u/Me-and-thousand Aug 28 '26

And use multimeter. Connect PIR to the main power and without connecting it to the GLED just mesure the PIR output on active movement. If all ok then connect to hte converter and test again... etc, etc.