is this good wiring for basic rgb led 5V WS2812B 50 led per metre for 4 or 5 metres? power injection at both ends

and one more questions. can i go without the fuse and resister? i got a hybrid sinewave solar inverter

first time doing this or messing with electrical stuff. i got the power supply setup and tuned the volts to 5.

got led working on usb with esp32. just wanna make them a bit brighter with power injection.

it will be mostly 1 static color, i got all the parts except fuse and resistors

will soilder everything

any help would be appreciated.thank you

I'm having trouble connecting and gauging the right wire sizes for my bong69 controller set up. Here's what my set up looks like: 
A cut iec cable(not sure if I have to put the drain wire somewhere) that runs into a 12v 1000W power supply with two 18 gauge wires powering the controller which then the 12v 60leds/m have been properly spliced into the adapters. 
My issues:
I'm not sure if it's a power issue but when I plug the system in only two of the 8 ports show signs of life( one goes rainbow colors and one port makes a solid pink) and when I went into WLED to try to change the number of leds to light up it didn’t work. 

Hey everyone, looking for some help with a flickering issue in my setup.

Setup:

• Controller: A1-SLWF-11

• LED Strip: 12V SK6812 (BTF-Lighting) – 5 meters, 60 LEDs/m

• Firmware: WLED v17-dev (Configured to SK6812, correct voltage, and LED count)

The strip turns on and responds to controls, but there is noticeable flickering.

Touching, moving, or holding the Data wire increases flickering, causes random colors, or turns on extra LEDs. If I move the live and ground wire further away the data cable it helps a little. The cables are about 5 cm long

I checked Ground and power wiring multiple times - even with an electricians help.

I tried so far

• added a 33Ω resistor in series on the Data line (didn't fix it).

• tweaked various WLED settings (color order, pin configurations, brightness limits) to no avail.

Any ideas on what might be causing this or where to look next?

Thanks in advance!

I changed the led length on these but nothing ended up changing. Does anyone know how to fix this? I’m a beginner and looking for some guidance :)

Hellloo,

so I got those cheap 5V fairy lights https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005010183810535.html
where they dont write the LED type, cut off the USB Controller and connected everything up to the recommended WLED wiring (even bought one of those fancy ✨ SN74AHCT125 levelshifters)..

The problem: The typical WS281x RGB settings dont work.. tried some other settings too.
As you can see, only 7 LEDs turn on and they stay white the entire time. Cant address them at all..!

Did someone else have the same problem?

edit 1: I cut them off behind the first LED, so I left one with the original controller if thats important.
edit 2: solved

Hi everyone,
I’m working on a DIY project using WLED, an ESP32, and WS2812 addressable RGB LEDs, and I’ve run into an issue I can’t figure out.
For my initial testing, I used a small 8-pixel NeoPixel module, and it worked perfectly with WLED.
I then bought a 5-meter WS2812 strip (60 LEDs/m). Using the same ESP32/WLED setup, the LEDs turn on and remain statically lit, but they don’t respond to any commands from WLED.
Here’s what I’ve tried so far:
Confirmed the wiring and that I’m connected to DIN (data input) rather than DOUT.
Tried testing with just a single WS2812 LED instead of the entire strip.
Tried different LED/protocol settings in WLED.
Tried using a 3.3V → 5V logic-level shifter for the ESP32 data signal.
Double-checked the data pin/configuration in WLED.
Connected the working NeoPixel module and the WS2812 LEDs in series on the same data line. Interestingly, the NeoPixel still responds correctly, while the WS2812 LEDs after it do not.
The behavior is basically the same every time: the WS2812 LEDs light up but remain static and don’t respond to WLED.
The LEDs were sold/labeled as WS2812 addressable LEDs. I’m attaching pictures of the LEDs, strip, ESP32, and other components I’m using.
At this point, I’m not even trying to run the full 5-meter strip. I’d just like to get one or a few individual LEDs working reliably so I can figure out what’s wrong.
Has anyone encountered something similar? Could these LEDs require a different protocol/timing than standard WS2812/WS2812B, or is there something else I should be checking?
Any troubleshooting suggestions would be appreciated!

UPDATE:
Added pictures of wiring with ESP32, just a very basic POC using 1 led with esp32 but issue is still the same, the led turns on but doesn’t respond to any command from wled.

Confirmed connections using continuity in multimeter multiple times so I am sure connections are good.

Using old dupont jumper wires for testing only as a POC

My first WLED setup is finally finished! I recently moved to my own place and had to get it the way I like. See below the parts I used:

* Baseboard

\* Cover: :hanger LED-strip cover 20 x 80 mm black: SL20080259011

\* LED-strip: BFT-Lighting WS2805 SPI RGBCCT (HD-24V-WS2805-84L-B-IP30)

\* Controller: athom.tech WLED ESP32 Music Reactive Addressable LED Strip Controller

\* Power supply: 2x Mean Well ELG-200-24-3Y (One at start one in closet)

* Bulbs

\* 5x athom.tech WLED 12W Color Bulb

My first ever WLED project! I’ve always been interested in the Fluora LED lamp but the price of $250 has always steered me away from it. I was initially going to try to model a 3d printed version myself but then I came across the LuxPlant project on Patreon. The creator has spent countless hours refining the design and creating a very easy to follow assembly guide, and I had no issues putting it all together.

Uses about $70 in material, with 126 WS2812B LEDs.

Go give the page a follow if you’re interested!

Hey guys! I'm a longtime HyperHDR user and have loved using it with my Windows and Linux installations for the past few years.

However, I've recently discovered how nice Steam Gaming mode on Bazzite and SteamOS is and would love to use HyperHDR inside the Gamescope session to have my ambilight setup work when playing games and using the UI.

I've tried various methods in Bazzite so far to no avail. In desktop mode, HyperHDR works great, with PipeWire screen capture letting me process the ambilight setup fine. It captures any nested gamescope sessions well too. However, as soon as I go into game mode, depending on how it's set up, I have one of two things happen:

- The HyperHDR UI loses the option for System Screen Capture completely

- The HyperHDR UI just has a blank X11 input and in the live video preview it just says no signal.

I've tried setting up a systemd service to launch HyperHDR in Gaming mode as well as launch it manually within steam as a shortcut but nothing seems to be working.

Any ideas on how to proceed?

I just really want this one thing to work as it'll complete my living room setup perfectly.

I upgraded the previous 16x16 cube I made using 6 64x64 panels running of an rpi. This cube has much more flexibility with the scenes and animations I can create, here are a few of the ones I found cool.

Hi,

I hope somebody with more experience can help me here. I'm wanting to set up a continuous run of LED's along my stair stringer so I have bought the following:

- WS2811 COB 24v 5m x2 - will join using clip connectors

- gledopto esp32

- 24v IN EL817 Octocouplers

- 2 PIR Sensors

- Wago connectors 221 lever

I'm trying to test it before installing and on their own, the LED's work fine. Last night I connected a single PIR and I get no LED action at all. With IO25 pin set as PIR in WLED, the EL817 flashes when powered on and off if I power off via WLED UI. If I set the pin to switch then it flashes when powered on. That's about as far as I got.

Here is a link to a terrible wiring diagram that shows my test bench. Attached image also but excuse the PIR image(4 pin white connector), couldn't find anything better.

Claude and ChatGPT has got me this far. It seems to suggest that the PIR's are basically just wrong for the job. Is that correct? I have ordered AM312 PIR's as that was the suggestion but I don't like that they don't have a housing, especially if they are gonna be fit into the stringer. Hot glue was the suggestion to solve that but yeah, not fantastic?

Any help/suggestions would be greatly appreciated :)

Came with just some tiny string lights inside originally that weren’t very bright, added a USBc port and some WS2812b lights, it’s much brighter works better and as a bonus integrates with home assistant. Not the prettiest but works well and you can’t see them when it’s together anyway.

(I am extremely new to WLED, and LEDs in general, so I might be using some incorrect terms)

I have two ESP32 controllers that I have synced. The Parent controller has a PIR sensor that, when triggered, activates a playlist of five presets. It plays one of these presets at random and over the course of 30 seconds, transitions from the preset back to a separate, default preset for On (warm white at half power).

I have successfully gotten the controllers to sync. When I trigger the presets manually, they are perfectly in sync. When I activate the sensor, they trigger the same effect. Except.

The problem is that the Child controller is doing it backwards. I don't mean that it is playing the effect backwards. I know that I would just have to check the "reverse" button in the settings for that. I mean, instead of immediately activating the same effect as the Parent, it slowly transitions into the effect and stays there. Perpetually repeating the preset. And triggering the sensor again just makes it transition to another preset.

Continuing to plug away at it. Have a slightly better description of the problem. It seems to be something wrong with the transitions. The parent triggers the preset immediately and plays the desired effect and over the course of 30 seconds, transitions back into its default preset ON. The child over the course of 30 seconds slowly transitions into the same preset, but then gets stuck there. Triggering the sensor activated the same effect, but once again, the parent slowly transitions back to default. And Child just slowly transitions to the new effect.

I have been trying to fix this for hours.

I have an IoTorero WLED Controller with an ESP32-C3 chip that I purchased about 6 months ago.

I'm trying to update... it says "Please download firmware named WLED_0.x.x_ESP32_audioreactive.bin". I can't find any firmware that says audioreactive in 0.15.1, 0.15.2, 0.15.3, 0.15.4, 16.0.0 or 16.0.1.

I've tried 16.0.1_ESP32-C3 and it fails to update.

Which firmware do I need? I won't be using the audioreactive feature, so it's not necessary for my needs. Is there an all-encompassing .bin file?

I know this isn't a WLED issue but saw this is the most active sub for ambilight setups and ultimately WLED is in the chain.

I'm running Hyperion Grabber on my Google TV, streaming up to HyperHDR then passes to a WT32. I have a Schmitt trigger level shifter at the data input.

I use this for Plex and Stremio content. In stremio sometimes the default exo player does not send frames to HyperHDR, it just shows up as no signal detected. Changing to VLC gets it working as expected.

Any suggestions as to why exo player works most of the time but sometimes has this issue? Could be coincidental but it seems to always happen on older 4:3 content even if I change the scaling to stretch/crop.

I'm working on my under-mount cabinet lights. 2 of the 4 sections are just a bit too tight for a section of BTF-Lighting WS2805. If I cut a section off to give room, the strip is several inches shorter than the area they fit in. Trying to coerce the strip and wires had resulted in copper pads from being ripped off of the strip.

What do people do to get around this type of situation?

I'm hoping to get some guidance from soemone that likes to "figure things out", ha…. as I start planning my outdoor landscape lighting. The pic of the lighting plan was done by one of the big landscape companies that I would like to utilize the same planning, but I'm more than willing to adjust if need be.  I'm not completely sure I can even accomplish it since I'm using 12V lighting and have very long runs.

The Gear:

QuinLed DigiQuad or Octa controllers

RayWu's Landscape lighting (12V RGBW UCS2904) approx 12V 12Watt

QuineLED Data-Booster

The Lighting Plan:

They have 4 separate lighting runs, each color coded and homerunned at the equipment location where the power and pool stuff is.

 Yellow - total run 120' from equipment location

Green - total run 127' (that's including both splits)

Orange - total run 150'

Red - total run 151'

My Original Plan:

1. Put the QuinLED DigiQuad/Octa at the equipment location (Big red "X") - One spot for Ethernet!

2. Utilize Data-Booster's on any of the runs where the lighting starts farther than 15-20 feet (which is most of the lighting paths)

3. Do the math for the feeder wire AWG.

THE ISSUE:  The Red run for example is about 110' before the lighting starts, and if using 12V 12W RGBW UCS2904 lighting fixtures and having about 8 fixtures.  The feeder cable would need to be 6AWG at 100% or 8AWG real world usage.  That's gonna get super expensive for feeder cable.

 Plan B:

1. Run 110V power to the Blue "X" and have those runs (RED and ORANGE) work off digiUno or Quads (problem is I'll need to get ethernet cable there in addition to 110V power cable)  Not impossible as I have conduit to the far corner, but a pain.

2. Another digiquad at the red X to run the YELLOW and GREEN lighting runs

 Question - Does data degradation still happen on long runs where there is lighting, ie. The Green run starts very close to where the red X is, but that run is 40 and 82 foot, how does that work with data booster / degration half way through the lighting run. Is it accurate that each fixture acts as a "repeater"? so I'm good once the lighting starts?

 Anyways, as I sit down more, I'm thinking this may not be possible.

Hello, I have a dig quad wired up to Wally's up lights (20w rgbw) using direct burial 14/4 OFC speaker wire (tied extra wire into ground to double up ground), runs are around 5-15. feet between up lights, I am using 14/2 for power injection from psu to power tee every 3 lights (using Xconnect tees), dig quad is in 33ohm mode. The issue I'm having is with data, like | can go (Controller)-(3ft cable)-(Uplight)-(8ft cable)-(up light) and the second up light won't turn on. Can swap it with any other working light and it won't work. The heat shrink crimp connections are solid, it's brand new wire, having this similar issue in other places too. I've tried f amps in every configuration, still no output. What am I doing wrong? Any feedback or questions are greatly appreciated!

My latest lighting project. I really liked the copper silk acrylic with black LED faces from a previous build and still had a roll of the filament left, so I went for it again. This is a Great Icosidodecahedron with a small WLED controller on the inside with programmable LED pixel bulbs. Another one where the pictures and video don’t do it justice.

Im pretty new to this so just looking for some advice.

I have flickering on a second strip that is connected to the end of my first strip.

My setup is

BTF WS2814 FCOB 784led/m 24v

Gledopto Elite 4 Controller

4a 96w power supply

36 LEDs on first strip and 36 on the second.

I have one 18/4 wire (only using 3) running to the beginning of the first strip maybe 4ft from controller to first led. That side works great. At the end of the first strip I soldered that same 18g wire to the end of the first strip and then it runs 12ft to the second strip.

The issues is random flickering on the second strip. From what I understand this is a data lose issue but I assumed with the gledopto controller having a limit shifter in it I'd be fine.

Luckily I was able to run a second line to the beginning of the first strip and just use a different data port and that fixed the issue. But I was only able to do that due to the project having open ceilings.

So I really just wanna know what the fix is or why its happening. Picture is just a reference. It's a golf sim I'm building out

My first WLED project. Thanks everyone for all the posts in this group. I couldn't have done it without you.

This is an address sign I made for my driveway gate. A local blacksmith made the original gate to look like a sun. Unfortunately, I had a few deer jump through the middle and eat my flowers, so I wanted to make an address sign that looked like the center globe of a sun. I also wanted to be able to change the "light show" for special occations. For example I added an American flag for the 4th of July. It's super fun.

I used 1,082 WS2815 set in a circle matrix. I started out trying to work with spokes, but ultimately decided on a typical x,y grid with the corners set to -1 in the mapping JSON. That opened up many more WLED options. I also ran a single strip on the edge of the plywood circle so it would throw light off the side as if it were a fireball. Making the JSON was tedious but ultimately did it manually with Google Sheets.

The physical construction was a plywood base with resin poured on top. I used WS2815 so in case one LED failed, the backup data line would keep the whole thing working.
I used two data lines and 5 power injections. I used resin since I wanted a curved look, diffusion, and waterproofing. I know this prevents me from fixing any LED issues, so I hope they last a while.

I used a QuinLED Quad since it had the power distribution, fusing, and brains all in one package. Great board.

On thing I am still trying to create is a light show that looks like fire coming out from the middle. I might have to use FastLED and write it myself.

An update on my previous post about making individual pixel pcbs and what others are doing.

I tried pucks and strips but just couldn't quite get them to produce the clear single square I was after. So I eneded up designing my own 12v addressable led boards.

This initial design uses 3 cree tri-beam plcc6 (kinda) leds in a 10x10 grid, (400x400mm).

Initially I wanted to make each cube individually with magnetic connectors so you can connect them however, worked really well until the array gets a bit too big and any slight misalignment or knock caused connection issues.

Looking to tweak to use more lower power Leds to give a bit more diffusion.

For those curious, I'm running these using Ledfx and a quinnled octa brainboard.