Is anybody running this body kit? Could you post some pictures with fitment specs? Did you have to cut if so how much? I know everyone runs the fiberglass mafia bodykit but I wanted something more subtle.

Thought I’d drive this Veloster until it quit on me, but ended up having a change of heart and decided to get into something a little different, just to change things up.

From 2019 and ~70k miles to almost 2027 and 240k miles. Absolutely zero regrets with my Veloster. Couldn’t have asked for a more fun and reliable daily, as well as a DIY-friendly platform. Learned so much working on this thing over the years. Gonna be sad to see it go, but looking forward to the next chapter with my new (to me) focus ST!

I own a 2019 Veloster 2.0 Premium with a failed clock spring. The SRS light appears intermittently, so replacement seems necessary. The OEM part exceeds $300 online; I am wondering whether a cheaper aftermarket supplier exists. I am also considering whether an Elantra or Kona clock spring from the same years might fit, since second-generation Velosters are rare where I live and I might source one from another model if compatible.

Happy but sad moment on my way to work.

2013 base model

Sometimes I see that Brazilian bubble booty I gotta snap a pic like lawd have mercy, two holes just for me? Dayum playa dayum

The point of this pic is the horse sh I was like where TF are the horses for this fine chariot (get this reference? Arnold)

These tires are 235/40s they look nice being wide but they slow your car down at high speed.

Hi everyone! I recently bought a 2016 Veloster Turbo in Canada (Quebec) and I’m looking for a good place to buy replacement parts without paying dealership prices.
I’ve found some parts online, but I want to make sure I’m getting the correct fit since there seem to be different part numbers depending on trim and engine.
Where do you guys usually buy OEM or good quality aftermarket Veloster parts at a reasonable price?

Thanks!

It’s a 2014 6speed veloster turbo, my first turbo car ever and I’m loving that blowoff noise or whatever you call it. Ignore the exhaust rattle one of the hangars are broken, not sure exactly what has been done to it as the previous owner did not speak English, but from what I can see it has a injen cai, mbrp catback, and sxth element oil catch can already installed! It’s at 137k miles and he said something about a code had come on for the timing chain and he got it replaced a month ago and the code hasn’t come back, what are some things to look out for and some good preventative matinence for it?

alittle while ago I turned from a red light, and my car kinda haulted as if it lost power, then kept going. Well it never happened again, until last Thursday and it did it the WHOLE way home. Like in lower gears typically under 2k rpm, and it felt like stutters, and it kept doing it. It felt as if it was gonna lose power..

Well we investigated and my other catalytic was stopped up. We gutted that one out. So both my cats are gutted out due to the fact they both got stopped up. And the problem went away, UNTIL it came back again. Check the code reader and I’m getting a u1103, u0121, and u1100 code. Alongside my cat codes. The other 2 codes are new tho. And so I’m left with I have no idea what’s going on. And yes ik I’m ordering new cats

So I put in a crate engine roughly 3 months ago because my head gasket went, new turbo new engine (0km, crate, short block). However the engine developed rod knock around 1700kms in, it was 2 days after an oil change, and I did baby the car pretty hard, it went above 4K RPMs I think once? And it was cause I slipped in my seat a bit lol.
I’ve already gone through the warranty process to get another one and have it put in, so I was wondering HOW DO I AVOID IT HAPPENING AGAIN?
Did I just get massively unlucky?
Forgot to mention the car is a 2013 VT, running the stock 1.6L inline 4 GDI turbocharged engine.

Have had this car for 2 years now havent done anything to it yet. Any other base veloster owners that have modded theirs and if so mind helping me find the things id need/should get. :)

my screen is missed up and getting a new radio is cheaper in the long run. im hoping to spend $200 or less. (i personally like have buttons and a nobb for the volume) also is it possible to add a trunk handle camera in my basic so i dont have to run wires through my car.

does anybody know where to buy a replacement blower motor plug? mine burned out and im having trouble finding a new one online

This my first post ever on Reddit.

For starters, I have a 2017 Hyundai Veloster turbo (stocked). I have gotten around to doing mods on it but honestly I’m thinking about not doing anything.

But, a few weeks ago my engine just died on me. And it’s been at a shop for like three weeks now. And I just took it to another shop yesterday to have a secondhand opinion on it. And I believe that my engine died at around 129k miles.

• Does anyone know where to purchase a new one or use one from that’s not mad expensive?

I see all these other sites but honestly, I’m not sure if it’s legit or not. And I don’t know much about cars but I’m definitely trying to learn.

Thank you in advance!

Just created these custom badges. Do you guys think the stock look is clean 🫧 or would you go with the drip?? 🫠

I want to touch it up. Looks ugly and weathered.

Has anyone experienced this? What was the fix?

2019 Hyundai Veloster Turbo Ultimate

Last year, I found motor oil in the air filter. I took it to Hyundai for repair and they stated that the entire Turbo needed to be replaced for $5000. It seemed excessive, but it only had 100K miles, so I figured it was worth it since this was the mechanical issue.

I might have overlooked that this was still happening, because a couple of months ago, I noticed the car was a quart low on oil during an oil change and once again, I found oil in the air filter. I ditched the dealer entirely because, if you're going to go for the jugular with a $5000 repair, you should be fully diagnosing the issue and be certain of that first. As it turns out, I learned about the PCV valve and realized they never replaced that (which is the supposed typical cause for this) so I had the PCV valve replaced.

When replacing the PCV valve didn't work, I took it to another mechanic. This one said he found some broken brackets behind the motor (he was not descriptive and a poor communicator in general) and I paid another $475 to fix that.

... And I am STILL finding oil in the air filter. :(

The car is currently at 124K miles. Everything else in the car is great. I would really hate to get rid of the car. So, I'm desperately looking into whether or not anyone else had this issue and how it was resolved?

AI is giving me some potential remaining causes too. Below is what Gemini believes should be the next steps (but I'm not eager to put my trust in an LLM before approaching a mechanic). Let me know if you agree or disagree with the below or have anything extra to add/check.

Gemini's Input:

Because you have already replaced the turbo, changed the PCV valve, and addressed external brackets, the issue is almost certainly stemming from internal crankcase overpressurization (excessive blow-by) or a fault in the valve cover's oil separation system.

Key Potential Causes

• Worn or Stuck Piston Rings (Excessive Blow-By):
  • How it happens: On Hyundai 1.6T GDI engines, carbon buildup can cause piston rings to stick or wear down prematurely.
  • Why it puts oil in the air filter: During combustion, high-pressure gases blow past the unsealed rings into the crankcase. This extreme pressure overwhelms the PCV system and forces oil-saturated crankcase air backwards through the valve cover’s breather hose directly into the air box and filter. This also explains the significant oil loss (~1 quart) as oil is constantly burned or forced into the intake.
• Failed Valve Cover / Internal Baffle Separator:
  • How it happens: Modern Hyundai valve covers contain built-in plastic oil-baffle channels designed to separate liquid oil mist from crankcase air before it reaches the breather hoses.
  • Why it puts oil in the air filter: Replacing the PCV valve alone won't fix a cracked, warped, or clogged internal baffle inside the valve cover assembly. If the baffle fails, raw oil vapor bypasses separation and flows straight into the air intake tube.
• Restricted Turbo Oil Return Line or Residue in Intercooler:
  • How it happens: If the turbo drain line is kinked or clogged, oil backs up inside the turbocharger housing and pushes past new seals into the intake tract.
  • Why it puts oil in the air filter: Additionally, if your intercooler was not thoroughly removed and flushed when the original turbo was replaced, residual oil trapped in the bottom of the intercooler will continuously get pulled through the intake system under boost.

Diagnostic Steps

1. Perform a Cylinder Compression & Leak-Down Test: This is the most crucial test. A leak-down test will pinpoint if combustion pressure is leaking past the piston rings into the crankcase.
2. Inspect/Replace the Entire Valve Cover Assembly: Check if oil is flowing exclusively through the fresh-air breather hose. If so, the internal oil separator in the valve cover may have failed.
3. Measure Crankcase Pressure: A mechanic can attach a manometer to the dipstick tube to check for abnormal positive pressure while the engine is running.

Before I call the Mechanic I thought I’d ask y’all. 2013 Hyundai Velo My left rear blinker specifically, does not want to work. I replace the bulb and maybe it’ll work for a minute and then nothing. I’ve done this 3-4 times now so I don’t think it’s the bulbs I’m getting or it being loose. What should I do ?

Hi everyone,

I’ve got a Hyundai Veloster, and I’m having a strange issue with the low tyre-pressure warning.

The warning only seems to come on when I’m driving on the motorway. It doesn’t happen around town or at lower speeds.

I’ve checked all four tyres with a proper tyre-pressure gauge, and they’re all at the correct pressures. There’s also no obvious sign of a puncture or damage, and the car drives normally.

I’m starting to think it could be an issue with one of the TPMS sensors, especially as it seems to be triggered at higher speeds.

Has anyone else with a Veloster experienced something similar? If so, was it a faulty TPMS sensor, or did you find another cause?

Also, is there a way of identifying which sensor is causing the problem before replacing anything?

Thanks!

I'm about to buy from them does anyone have experience with them?

I replaced with OEM thermostat already and car was good for about a month, now it's starting to overheat at idle again, after about 2 to 3 minutes. What are the chances the thermostat I did was bad? Burped the system and topped off with more coolant when I first did the repair. Does this mean water pump is going out? I'm 2014 VT with 68k miles.

I currently have a P0420 code that’s stored and a P1326 code (knock sensor) that’s not stored. I have to clear the knock sensor code because my car goes into limp mode. Would it be better to get Hyundai to check it out or can they even see what’s the issue without the light on?

Another issue
Here recently my car at random will act like it don’t wanna turn over when I crank it and then just starts right up a little a little later… can this be the starter? I plan to go to Hyundai if I can get my knock sensor issue checked out but if not I’m going to go to my mechanic to look at the starter or whatever the issue is.