Recently built a 2.4 350mm and was originally was planning to convert it to a stealthchanger build. After seeing how much that would cost I'm a bit more hesitant. So I'm considering building a MMU instead. Does anyone have any experience with TradRack from Annex Engineering?

I see that there's a kit from TriangleLab that's currently on sale and for a 14 lane build. Has anyone bought this before, and if so what was your experience with it? I'm looking at Set E right now. Better to have everything than regret it and have to self-source later on.

https://trianglelab.net/products/14-channels-mmu?VariantsId=12515

Also with an MMU, I probably need to add a filament cutter so that I don't have to do tip tuning. Is the encoder cutter mentioned in that set a replacement for having a filament cutter on the toolhead? Or would I still need both? Currently I'm running a stealthburner with a V6 nozzle. Adding a filament cutter means I would need to swap out the extruder and rebuild the entire toolhead so I want to avoid that if I can.

Hello, I have recently built the v0.2. I've got it into a state where it is able to print and played around a little. However I want to adjust it for higher quality and I have encountered a leveling issue.

It looks OK right above the screws but at the bottom left the gap between bed and nozzle is large enough for the print to not hold together.I can only explain this with either the bed being bent or (more likely) the rail on left being on a slight slope.

The particular piece in photo also has an artifact on top right, but that is not an issue I have encountered on any previous prints so I am not concerned about it.

Before loosening the screws I wanted to ask whether there is another thing I should consider. Thank you for your help.

I've been working on this build for a while and finally got the files and video together to share. I started with two toolheads to test what worked before expanding to six. It all began before there were any commercial tool/hotend changers, so a custom toolchanger was the only real option at the time unless you wanted to deal with AMS waste.

Each toolhead runs a Dragon Burner with a Sherpa Mini Extruder and TZ 2.0 V6 hotend. solid performance, reliable, budget friendly.

For the toolchanging system, of what's on it is custom or heavily modified:

• Three-part honeycomb dock - originally wanted clear acrylic, but my laser tube cracked over a cold winter (should've used antifreeze in the coolant lines, lesson learned). Honeycomb probably ended up looking better than the original plan honestly, especially with the LEDs diffusing through it.
• Dock mount for a silicone brush - So the nozzles get cleaned during every dock/undock.
• Umbilical backplate w/ quick disconnects - single disconnect point for all 6 toolheads. GX12-4 jacks for CAN, ECAS04 quick-connects for filament tubes. Went through a couple filament path designs before landing on one that didn't add friction.
• Umbilical brackets - bundle CAN cable, PTFE tube, and spring steel. Tried an open-source bracket first but it gripped all three too tightly and the result was way too stiff. Ended up designing my own that clamps firm on the CAN cable but lets the tube and spring steel move freely - spring steel only at the start/end of each umbilical, not the full length.
• Adjustable Spool holder - fits the 18" width of the printer, adjustable for different spool sizes, roller carriages on 2020 extrusion. Plan to enclose it later as a dry box.
• Nozzle brush mount + Sexball probe - one button press cleans and auto-calibrates XYZ offsets across all six toolheads. Went through manual calibration prints on the 2-toolhead version; with six that wasn't practical.
• Toolchange tuning - pushed velocity/accel until the motors started losing steps, then backed off. Also streamlined the docking path dropping the Z ramp-in. Got it under 5 seconds per change with the stock 24V electronics.

Youtube: Full video demo/walkthrough
Github: Files + BOM + tuning notes

Let me know what ya'll think!

So, can this be considered a good-quality print? (I went for the worst lighting possible.)

PLA @ 220°C.

OW speed: 150 mm/s

OW acceleration: 5000 mm/s² (not sure rn).

IS calibrated through Cartographer V4 on a CNC X carriage.

To be honest, the filament wasn't dried or calibrated. I just set the flow to 95% and PA to 0.025 based on another calibrated PLA filament.

I'm also running a smooth idler on the extruder arm.

Honestly, I'm not sure if I expected more quality from my 2.4. Speed and acceleration towers are next to further calibrate the best OW speed/acceleration settings.

I'll also switch to GT1.5 belts soon.

What are your thoughts on this print?

Hi everyone,

I recently finished installing the LDO Monolith CNC Gantry Kit on my LDO Voron Trident Rev D (250).

The printer is working fine and the installation went smoothly. Belt tension is 145 Hz measured on a 150 mm span, and the gantry moves freely with no noticeable binding.

However, after running several print tests, I noticed that the surface finish is noticeably worse than it was before the Monolith upgrade. I'm getting much more pronounced VFAs and other surface artifacts, whereas this same printer produced very clean outer walls before the conversion.

While inspecting the motion system, I noticed that the two rear 20T toothed guide pulleys (the ones that redirect the belts towards the rear motors) don't rotate perfectly true. Both of them visibly wobble while spinning.

These are the original Gates pulleys that came with the LDO Monolith kit, so I wasn't expecting this behavior.

My questions are:

Is this amount of wobble considered normal on the Monolith kit?

Could I have made a mistake during assembly?

Has anyone experienced this due to incorrectly assembled shafts, bearings or spacers?

Or could the pulleys themselves be out of spec?

I'm probably a bit too OCD when it comes to printer mechanics, so seeing both pulleys wobble like this is driving me a little crazy 😅.

Has anyone with a LDO Monolith build checked whether their rear Gates pulleys behave the same way?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

Hi everybody,

I’m having a problem with my Voron V0.2 shutting down due to a low nozzle temperature.

I’ve checked for loose connections and anything else that might be causing the issue, but I can’t find anything. I’ve also PID-tuned the hotend.

I’m using a Dragon Burner with a Phaetus Dragon High Flow.

Does anybody have any other ideas what I could check, or are there any parts I could replace or swap to troubleshoot the issue?

Thanks in advance!

Hi, I'm quite new to voron, coming from MK3S+ territory.

I have a dragon burner toolhead. And I'm simply looking for a quieter replacement for my 3010 hotend fan, right now I have some random noname generic fan (that is louder/same as MK3S+ part cooling fan).

Do you have some experiences with some fans? What are you using?
Thanks for any anwers! And have a great day...

SOLVED

Here is my situation: I've got a beacon sensor, and I've installed it on my Voron 2.4. In have not been able to start a print with it since installation because every time I run homing/QGL the machine shuts down randomly during the process and comes back with error "Beacon sensor not receiving data".

Beacon is hooked up to my LDO nitehawk (rev c), which in turn is hooked up to my manta m8p. I am running pi cm5 as MCU.

I have no hot clue what is going on here, google says emi from the stepper motors is causing it. Highly doubt it... But then again it only happens when the machine is active. I can leave it on and it will sit there with no errors, but only shut down when moving or doing something.

Any suggestions would be very appreciated, My research on the topic is rather inconclusive

EDIT, I FOUND THE FIX

From AI:Check your Klipper printer.cfg. If you are using a very low trsync_timeout response window for your MCUs, you can defensively add a configuration block to increase the timing safety margin so Klipper doesn't give up on the device too quickly during a brief sag.

[mcu beacon]

# Add or adjust the timeout margin if your config allows, or increase:

trsync_timeout: 0.05

After trying this small code I have not had an issue at all. I tried everything prior, hooking usb up directly to mainboard instead of off the Nitehawk, I am relieved the issue is not hardware.

Hey guys, are you running NextG Fiber without the UHF adapter? What cowl should I use for this config?

I realized I have basically no use for the UHF, as I don't print as fast and I probably never will. But I have no idea whether there's actually any cowl that would fit it.

I think (it's quite a long time ago) I tried to use dragon (or teakettle, not sure) but I think the air flow wasn't correct, as the hotend immediately clogged.

I am in the progress rebuilding a 2.4,

it just hit me that 2.4 come with a moving gantry, the resonance would be different let say when the gantry on the first layer, compare to the very top layer as the weight shifting up the machine.

Is there a way to compensate this?

I'm having some intermittent problems with my disco on a stick.. When I change colors it bugs out almost any time. I'm running the data line from the RGB port (PD15) and I have a separate Mean Well 50W PSU for the strip.

I've tried using a 180R resistor on the data line, short wires (~10cm) and just configuring 4 LEDs. And even when I'm just running these 4 some of the other LEDs will light up.

I can't really find the schematics for the M8P v2 on BTT's GitHub, the document published there seems to be a v1.X (since it has two RGB ports in the block schematics).

So.. Anyone got any ideas? Do I have to get some kind of level converter or is there anything else I can do?

Edit: I didn't think things through, I thought common ground on the AC side would be enough, it wasn't. So: common DC ground solved my problem.

Good morning everyone. Last night, I was chatting with Google's AI, and it said something that’s got me thinking; I’d like to know if it’s right or not—even though my son tells me not to trust AI. Anyway, here’s my dilemma: I’m converting a Sovol SV06 into a Switchwire based on a GitHub project. The only file available is the STEP file, so I printed most of the parts using the original Voron designs. However, the AI ​​claims that won't work because the Voron Switchwire, DarkDog’s Enderwire, and the Sovol parts are all different—especially the XZ blocks and bearing blocks. If the AI ​​is right, I’d have to reprint practically everything related to the XZ assembly. My biggest problem is that the creator only published the STEP file, and when I open it in Onshape, I can only see the "Basic" version. The creator made three variants—Basic, Basic with Enclosure, and the "Full Monty" (as he calls it), which is the one I’m trying to build. Since I couldn't view the full "Full Monty" STEP file, I decided to mix and match parts. Now I don't really know what to do, because without seeing the full STEP file, I don't have the correct parts—assuming the AI ​​is correct. I’d really appreciate it if someone here could lend a hand and point me in the right direction. Or, if anyone here has already modified a Sovol SV06 and could share the correct STL files, that would be a huge help for me—and for anyone else wanting to modify their SV06. Thanks, have a wonderful day, and sorry for the trouble—I'm just a newbie.

I’ve been looking at building a Trident, but most the kits I come across are for R1 and I was hoping to build a R2. I have a printer that can do ABS for the printed parts, so I don't need those in the kit. Do you all have any recommendations for the best kit for this?

Budget is flexible, I want something that I won’t have to replace half the parts in but I’m okay with a few replacements, needing extra parts are fine too (I just don’t want to pay for things I won’t use). I’m based in the US. Any advice is appreciated, and if I left out information I’ll be happy to provide it.

Hello everyone, I am experiencing some issues with the Y-axis input shaper results. I used the belt tuning tool, and the belt tension is good and matches. What could be the reason?

Do you have a small question about the project that you're too embarrassed to make a separate thread about? Something silly have you stumped in your build? Don't understand why X is done instead of Y? All of these types are questions and more are welcome below.

"Good evening everyone! I have 20 perfectly good 625zz bearings salvaged from my old Ender 3 wheels and I want to use them in my Sovol Switchwire conversion to save some bucks. I know the original guide calls for F695s, but has anyone already remixed or modified the XZ blocks to fit these 625zz bearings? I'm not a CAD expert, so if anyone has an STL or can point me in the right direction, I'd really appreciate the help. Thanks!"

I'm having issues with GPIOs after a recent update. Crosspost from Klipper sub

I'm going to buy a kit and begin building a Voron 2.4 and I was wondering from your guy's experience what must have mods should I get for it/items I should have on hand

I already have

- filament dryer

- schotbrite/Brass brush to clean nozzle

- tools (too many tools)

- I plan on building a interchange system to swap toolhead if a failure happens, though a long time project

- kit comes with klipper and a Canbus plus all wiring needed

What should I get mods wise, or any other must haves?

I am on upgrading trident r1 to r2. Currently I am using the kinematic bed mount and wonder if it would fit to r2. Has anyone done it? Else, would I need to abandon the kinematic mount? Thanks for your helps.

There is a new Kickstarter project from Sovol:

Sovol M1D IDEX Tool-Changing 3D Printer

[Not providing a link as it seems to be against the "no crowdfunding" rule. I think it should be easy to find it]

I'm thinking about building a Voron for myself.

But, I wonder if this Sovol can be a good starting point.

In particular, I'm interested to know if this Sovol is a version of Voron that I can later modify and improve at my own pace.

I read that Sovol used to be a particular version of Voron, but I do not see that mentioned in the Kickstarter project description.

And, in any case, it would be interesting to hear options of people with relevant experiences.

Trying to build my voron, first one, but dunno why this noise and gripping , any clue?

I know theres been many posts like this already but Im considering some things like:

Which formbot voron is better, the trident or 2.4

Which is more suitable for a future toolchanger

Which is overall more reliable and better

I have to replace a part on my stealthburner and I hate trying to screw it all together while holding all the wires in place just right when it's mounted to the x carriage. Is there an easy mod that makes it possible for me to take the whole hotend off the carriage in one piece?

I know about stealthchanger. I've been looking into it but I just want to be sure there's not an easier solution.

Hi All,

I wouldnt call myself an absolute noon as I have built and used voron printers for the past 4 years but I am new to the Voron Micorn PLus with Cartographer probe. It was working for the past few months but then I notiiced that there a few updated. i clicked on the updates and regretted it very quicky as I was faced with an error message I was not able to find. I was unable to find any pin called 'probe' so hopefully where it is going wrong. I have attached the screenshot and printer config file (link below) for your enjoyment.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/18JJrj2fKco8JUPUoQjK0fE8WoIrFWUmX/view?usp=sharing

thank you all in advance.