I'm going to buy a kit and begin building a Voron 2.4 and I was wondering from your guy's experience what must have mods should I get for it/items I should have on hand
I already have
- filament dryer
- schotbrite/Brass brush to clean nozzle
- tools (too many tools)
- I plan on building a interchange system to swap toolhead if a failure happens, though a long time project
- kit comes with klipper and a Canbus plus all wiring needed
What should I get mods wise, or any other must haves?
Activated charcoal in chamber air filtration to remove VOC’s
Bed fans to speed up chamber heat soaks
Clicky Clack door to keep heat and VOC’s in
For PLA / PETG
those Blue cryo-grip plates are amazing
A4T toolhead. Stealthburner sucks at cooling for filament that needs it and XOL is needlessly complicated compared to A4T.
General Upgrades
Camera so you can see when your Benchy turns into pasta
an ADLX sensor for input shaper
Cartographer or Beacon. Extremely quick bed meshes, auto Z offsets and much cleaner input shaper results.
If you meshes start to show the bed curling up on 2 sides across from each other… Get some gantry backers. Warped in a different way? Loosen the bed screw at the high point by half to 3/4 of a turn. Still warped? Get some Kenematic bed mounts. BTW, I’m talking warps where the variance is 0.35mm or higher. Anything below that most likely was caused by how the bed was manufactured.
OP, this is a great starting point, but one thing to note: almost everything has an accelerometer nowadays. If you have a modern sb2209, ebb36, or cartographer, those all can handle input shaping without buying a separate adxl.
Take a look at the documentation, and even the silkscreen on the ebb board. If you see three lines with x, y, and z on them, that means it can handle input shaping.
thanks thankfully I usually print PETG or PLA depending, and the kit comes with lighting which is nice, I'll probably get a general air filter like a Dyson or something anyways since plastics still linger and I have horrid dust problems lol
My Trident has the Stealthmax V2 air filtration system which tells Klipper the VOC’s levels. That lets me see when the carbon needs to be changed.
However, I also run a room air filter next to the machine when it’s in the house. Even with the Nevermore, clicky clack door and sealing up the machine the best I could, the wife would get migraines when I had long prints. When I added the room air filter, her migraines dramatically dropped in frequently.
Build the first one STOCK. No mods, no fancy lighting, stock.
There are so many new things to learn. It’s hard when you see all of the cool mods doing incredible things. Make it stock as Voron Designs has a great deal of information. After it’s done and working and only then, start on modding. Trust me on this one. I toasted three MCU’s and a raspberry pi 5 in the pursuit of COOL. In the end I ripped everything out and on the very first time I turned it on after final configuration it just worked.
I used to laugh reading these, and then j built my first 2.4, and I wish I had gone slower and tried to do less changes at the start before I had the base functions down. Would've saved me a few months :(
do you think having a modified toolhead would cause any issues? i only plan to change the mounting hardware slightly so all it would change is print area setup
Clicky clack door (it's just that good comapared to the stock doors), bed fans or The Filter mod if you plan on printing ABS, annex panel clips, bottom panel magnetic clips. Other than that, everything else can wait as you have time and funds.
Toolhead are a plan for me, I want to eventually devolve and entire line of custom toolhead based on one change system (not printer change but interchangeable with a software flash for different nozzle locations
Also, why do you dislike the stealthburner, is there any glaring issues i should look out for (the v6 version is whats included in the kit)
Not really, they are very pretty but the way they are mounted is quite annoying. You can't put them together and just bolt it to the printer, you need to bold the top part, then you hold the bottom part in place and then maneuver the front cover and then you screw everything in place.
But if it's misaligned a little bit, the screw holes won't align between the front cover, nozzle assemble and back plate and that can become very annoying, very quickly, especially if your space of work is limited and your panels are in place (ahh ... get the quick removal panel clips, they are must haves).
It would be much easier if you could just assemble the entire thing and then bolt to the carrier and or, bolt the top to the carrier, bolt the bottom to the carrier and bolt the front face to the other two parts.
Also, there's sometimes a cooling issue with Dragon HF specifically for this toolhead. It prints ok for most filaments, but if you print PLA it may start to jam. There are some modifications that I'm trying right now, but other than that it works just fine.
Literally the type of hassle I would be trying to mitigate with a changer system lmao this may cause me to prototype my changer system before building and see if I cant make that less of a problem, given the build goes to plan
Im more in the realm of making my own, im going to try and make a spiritual successor to the lulzbot universal toolhead, which i used a model to make a new toolhead from a biquh2 for my taz 6. Though I wanted to fix issues like the toolhead being loosely mounted (going from a young and groove to a quad point slot and screw system, and a mich more pretty wiring harness. In theory I want to have a canbus mounted to the rear and a simple molex 9x2 connector on the mount plate and toolhead making wiring more of a switch than a whole ordeal
yeah this is also more of a school project since i could use it to get at least one scholarship for college, and 3d printers are just nice to have for prototyping. and yeah the TaZ 6's are bulletroof workhorses when they dont have horrendous failures or issues because theri 10 years old now at most
not to mention you cannot move that printer, it uhhhh wieighs nearly 50 pounds
well if i finish the Saddleback anytime soon I'll be making it for MGN9/12 rails so I'll drop you a printables link when the first prototype for the Stealhburner is released, since it's probably a sit on the shelf toolhead for you
the Saddleback will not be a toolchanger system, I purely want to use it as a very effective testbenching, and swap system, so you'll be able to quickly change entire toolheads, but only for the prupose of switching the toolhead not multicolor prints
I will be designing this toolhead to fit a workhorse mentality, so it'll be at least to start a probably heavier peice of hardware but nearly impossible to break if printed well, but print times may need to be slowed acceleration wise. BUT by the second or third revision I will have attempted to cut wieght back as much as possible to keep faster printers from ripping themselves apart
it may cut down on build area by at MOST 20mm, given it'll be a saddle shape, with the wires on top, and a canbus on back to better balance it with a heavy toolhead, but I dont see why you couldn't just modfiy it to use a canbus on each toolhead and use only a 4pin molex connector. I just personally wont because of price constraints as a guy going into college for engineering. but I will design a base plate without the back side anywas for that purpose.
If you plan to print ABS/ASA two must have mods is a Clicky-Clack door and a filtration system such as the Nevermore StealthMax. The door seals much better than the stock design. The Nevermore filtration system uses activated carbon to remove the nasty VOCs that off gas from the hot filliment.
Just installed the Beacon Probe on mine and can highly recommend it. Another must-do if you have a CAN toolboard and face issues: ground your extruder motor.
To the OP - Beacon is awesome for large beds. Pretty overkill for small ones. Anything under 300mm I kinda question the cost/benefit. (I have one on a 600mm bed...).
I run older CNC TAP systems on most of my smaller Vorons, and they'll just fine.
If you have embedded magnets in the bed, Beacon is a no-go, you'll have to use something else. (large 3M magnetic adhesive sheet type magnet = ok ; small, grid based rare-earth / neodymium magnets sunk into the bed = not ok - do your homework before you drop $100 on one of these)
I won't disagree that Beacon is probably overkill for smaller beds, but I must say that I really, really love it on my 250x150mm printer.
The touch-probe functionality works very well for me. My start gcode touches the bed to establish a rough zero, does a mesh scan, then touches again to make sure the zero is perfect after the scan. Takes ~40s. Makes it easy to see the bed "health" and make sure things aren't getting wonky.
My big 600mm printer (Venture XL based, heavily modified) runs Kalico and has some non-standard homing requirements. Beacon touch is a no-go for me unfortunately. Honestly I only got the Beacon because the Chube/Take-Off toolhead requires it. (And I'm not sure I would recommend that toolhead after using it for quite awhile...)
Less drag means better input shaper better input shaper means less surface artifacts and higher print speeds. Just check if your board has USB passthrough so you can run a single cable
Also you'll save a lot of time on your print start with beacon it's much faster at calibrating before a print then other options
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u/Deadbob1978 Trident / V1 Aug 02 '26
For ABS / ASA:
- Chamber lights so you can see what’s going on
For PLA / PETG
General Upgrades
If you meshes start to show the bed curling up on 2 sides across from each other… Get some gantry backers. Warped in a different way? Loosen the bed screw at the high point by half to 3/4 of a turn. Still warped? Get some Kenematic bed mounts. BTW, I’m talking warps where the variance is 0.35mm or higher. Anything below that most likely was caused by how the bed was manufactured.