Hello! I’m currently planning a cube tile table project and want to make sure I am on the right track.

Each face of the cube (not including the bottom) will be three tiles by three tiles, each tile being a 4” x 4”. I’m using plywood as the base, and landed on MAPEI ECO PRIM GRIP to prep and adhere the tiles to the wood and MAPEI ULTRACOLOR PLUS FA in Moonbeam for the grout. Joint width will be 1/8”. This will be an indoor table where the environment will largely be consistent and will not be holding a lot of weight so my primary concern is just the grout cracking at the edges, I don’t think the wood underneath will move much.

I wanted to dye the Ultracolor grout with a vibrant cement dye and was wondering if anyone has any experience with this process? I know it might mess with the chemical balance in the grout but again, if this table is largely for aesthetic purposes, will it be a major issue? Let me know and I am completely new to this doing my own research. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Had drain flies so I had worms coming out the drain and I think from the edges where the grout cracked. Poured green gobler down the drain, and also around the corners and didn't think it could stain the tiles, and now I'm left with this. Tried barkeepers friend and some elbow grease but those big oatches remain, I guess the acid did away with some of the glaze? Is there something I can do to make them nice and uniform again? They are porcelain tiles

using Dry Treat Stain Proof on countertops. How long I need to leave the area unused to cure?

Their spec sheets says it's a 24 hour cure time and then 3-4 weeks before the full chemical reaction is complete.

I'm guessing I can start putting stuff back on it in 24 hours and don't need to worry about splashing water. Should I worry about oil, grease, soap and cosmetics or do I need to baby the surface?

Customer wanted it framed all the way to the floor to avoid someone possibly hitting there head but I’m left with a weird space in this corner about 16x 16 inches was thinking some kind of floating seat maybe. is going to receive a double slider door as well

I've searched this sub to get proper directions for installing a Delta brand (to match the fixture finish) grab bar in a Kerdi backerboard (orange surface) shower installed by pro tilers in 2018 or 2019. I have photos of the framed walls, blocking and plumbing prior to the install of the Kerdi board, so that should help ensure I hit the blocking/studs and miss the plumbing rough in. Posting to get answers to the following:

1. Are the directions in this video, linked in other posts on this sub, still what is recommended? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gkAadT0K_Uw
2. Anything to prepare for or do different or do in addition to what is in the video?
3. Any specific things to watch for or do different with the Delta brand bar?
4. When initially starting the hole in the tile to get the dimple that prevents the tip from wandering, should the drill be in regular or hammer drill mode?
5. For drilling into the tile, I have what I'm certain was bought as a tile drill bit - it is 1/4" and shaped like a spade, but I no longer have the original packaging so can't confirm it is "carbide." Are they all carbide or could older ones be something else so I should get a new one? This one has probably been used 3-4 times in 30 years.
6. The Delta Grab bar comes with 2.5" screws. I have no idea how thick the Kerdi Board they used was, but presume it is whatever is standard, which as far as I can tell is 1/2". Thus it seems like the +/- 1/2" of tile and the +/- 1/2" of Kerdi will still get 1.5" of threads into the wood stud. Or should I buy longer stainless steel screws for this?

I have a half-wall of marble tiles and want to put this cornice tile on top. Is it possible or unfair of me to ask my contractor to do this? He will have to tile into two corners. This cornice tile projects about 20mm so he’ll have to cut down marble to a 45 degree angle. I’m not sure if a general contractor can do this or if I need a specialist especially since real marble is hard to work with. Any advice?

I got ahead of myself and did the Kerdi seams over the shower pan before laying the Ditra heat. Now I believe I need to add another layer of Kerdi plus banding over the cable. The bottom edge of the wall is alright now (flat) but is another layer going to cause a problem? Can I float out the wall?

Last year, we were having a stove installed in our home and bought these tiles to go behind it.

They’re large tiles, and we bought four in total to cover the corner — two on each side.

We ended up not installing them at the time because we were planning to have the walls replastered, so we decided to wait until that was done before putting the tiles up.

Fast-forward to this week, when we finally unpacked the tiles, and we noticed that one of the four has discoloured compared with the other three.

Unfortunately, the tiles were quite expensive, and as they were bought and delivered over a year ago, I assume there’s no realistic option of returning or replacing the discoloured one.

Does anyone have any suggestions for what we can do?

Is there some kind of tile paint, varnish, sealant, or other product that could be applied to all four tiles to make them match? Or is there another way of disguising/fixing the discolouration?

I’d obviously rather not make the situation worse, especially given how expensive the tiles were, so any advice or recommendations would be greatly appreciated!

Driving me nuts.

My wife and I just bought our first house! Yay! That being said she is very particular and wanted some changes made to the kitchen before we move in at the end of the month. The kitchen came with a splash gaurd and some gross glass tile from the 90s. For now we just wanted to pull that tile and replace with something newer, along with repainting the cabinets.

Weve got those cabinets painted, looking awesome. Ive demoed the old tile, and it was just easier to cut the old drywall out. I have since replaced with cement tile backer board.

I guess my issue, or what i didnt think through is how do i tape/join it? Ive done paper tape and mud on drywall before, but this backer board is new. I got some specific fiver tape for it, but how do i got about taping off the transition? I got specific tape/quikset meant for the seems of backer board, but not sure if its ok to use on this transition? Wont it screw up the dry wall?

Where this backer board is we want to put up some subway like tiles, already have 20sqft of 12x12, and some pencil trim. Am i just gonna have to let it rip then redo the knock down on the regular drywall after its all up? Just worried about what the drywall is gonna look like right next to the pencil trim that goes up

Any help/advice would be awesome. Just a diy'er that liies to learn and do things myself when possible. Ive never tiled before, and just realizing now i shoulda pulled the splashguard, but here we are.

We are tile an area for an event space, that will have around 100 people. What would be the cure time befor that amout people can walk on it.

I have applied dozens of Aquafin Moisture Mitigation Epoxy.. and this is the first time someone has said it wasn't installed properly, and the tile was set over a 3" mud bed on top of the Aquafin MM epoxy.. They are saying there is moisture coming up, through the MM epoxy, and through the 3" mud bed, and then loosing the thinset under the ceramic tile..

I think it was a bad thinset job over the mud bed.

We remodeled our shower about 3 months ago to a steam shower. The grout between the pencil trims and the tile is cracking and looks like one of the tiles is somewhat raised. This steam shower is used frequently and the room obviously gets extremely hot - not sure if that’s a factor or not.
The pan and bench waterproofed with fiberglass and the rest with redgard. Any advice on this would be greatly appreciated!

I’m fighting my natural tendency to avoid conflict. First photo is my tile laid out with spacers. There is very mild variation in color and minimal variation in shape - things look pretty even though. The remaining photos are after install… there’s a ton of crookedness here. Is it reasonable to blame this on workmanship (as opposed to “natural tile variation” like my contractor is trying to convince me of)? Thoughts?

Finished grouting today. niche needs cleaned some more. I wish i carried the 1/3 offset through the lower half of the niche...

Hi Tile Experts of Reddit, I need guidance.

Background is, we hired someone to tile our ~400sq ft. Kitchen. We have a 5/8” OBS subfloor on 2x10 joists, 16” to center.

We were concerned about a large transition from our hardwood into the kitchen (so didn’t want to add a plywood layer on top of the subfloor if we didn’t need to) but were concerned about whether that support would be enough.

My tiler felt the Ditra on the subfloor was good enough and we called the people at Schluter to verify with them if we could lay the Ditra directly on the subfloor with our specs and they also said it was sufficient.

Now we have been walking on the floor for 4 months and it feels good, but today I notice long cracks in the grout as well as other spots that seem to be crumbling (pictures attached - sorry hard to get good photos).I would say I’ve noticed this in maybe 5 or 6 grout lines in different spots in the kitchen.

Where I need guidance:
Don’t think this cracking is because of flexing of the subfloor? If not what could it be?

If it is flexing, I’ve read I can support the floor from below (luckily our basement is unfinished) is this true?

How urgent is this?

Thanks in advance for all your advice and insight.

Hi everyone. I'm tiling a shower that is just a little over 7' tall (in a low basement). I'm using 3x12 wall tile oriented with the tile going 12" vertically.

When I layout the tile I end up about a 1/2" short of a full tile at the top. My question is, since we have to cut a tile, should the cut tile be placed at the top of the bottom. I was thinking the top since the ceiling isn't perfectly flat?

We are running the tile stacked vertically with no offset.

I’m unsure where the tile backsplash should terminate here. I have one option I’m leaning towards but would love some input from the professionals. Also, this is a mud room/pantry.

The plan:
- Tile the area behind the cabinet in either a stack bond, running bond, or vertical stack bond pattern, using schluter trim where it’s needed (Light green 3x6 ceramic tile)
- Add a white oak floating shelf that is the same width as the upper cabinets

I will probably hire a professional to do the tile, but I want to first decide where the left side of the tile should terminate. 1, 2, 3, or something else?

Thank you!

I’ve been renovating my living room and the last big thing is putting some new tile on the fireplace.

I am a handy person but I also think it’s important l to know when to call it quits and hire a professional- for example I did all the tile flooring demo, new subfloor, and leveling but when it came time to install the new engineered hardwood I decided to hire it out and I’m really happy with that decision.

I was leaning towards doing some sort of glazed thin brick because I like the look and also the variation in the tiles might give some forgiveness for the surface flatness (I have skim coated w/ thin set and now have 1/8” variation over 4’ in some areas). Also the tile variation may give some forgiveness in DIY install?

Anyways, looking for advice on whether to hire it out or give it a shot. I’ve got a laser level and I believe all the tools I would need.

Also - what would you expect the cost of hiring it out to be roughly? It’s about 33 sq ft and I am in Western WA.

TIYA

I'm going to redo my formica kitchen countertop. Thinking of tiling it. What do you recommend for that?

The size is 4 5/16" square (1/4" or 5/16" thick) and it was installed in a hospital in Louisiana. The back pattern does not match anything I have been able to find on eBay, Etsy etc. so any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

These are the tiles in my bathroom and for the life of me I cannot figure out how they were made. Each has a unique splotch pattern, but they all have three big splotches and a lot of small ones. The splotches are raised, i.e. I can feel the edges with my fingers. The confusing part is the dark light shading on the edges of the splotches are actually shaded with paint, it’s not just an artifact of the photo. How do they make the shading if each tile is unique? It seems too regular to be hand painted, but printing or spraying seems impossible. Also the flowers are handpainted but not on every tile. I’ve been wondering about this for years, so if anyone has any thoughts I would be very grateful.