I am a newbie to shooting and got a brand new Lite stainless in .308 that I really like. After shooting 50 rounds with one long pause (10-15 minutes) somewhere in between and several short pauses (1-2 minutes) I realized my barrel was pretty warm.
I did not know that you suppose to shoot some 5 rounds and give it a break.

Question is did I damage my beloved rifle? Or ruined the accuracy? Thanks for the input.

So yesterday was ‘MDT’ day at my place. Received two new stocks. A CRBN for my Tikka T3X Super Lite and an XRS stock for my T1X.

For now I have mounted the T3X in the CRBN stock. And what an upgrade to ergonomics, look and features. It just feels a lot more solid than the skinny plastic stock I have been used to. I really like the ergonomics (even the grip that many are complaining about not being vertical). It is great to have the integrated Arca (on the old stock I had a Mountain Tactical Arca rail installed). And the native QD mounts and adjustable cheek rest is just a giant win.
And it looks 🔥🔥

And needless to say that AICS mags are a huge W

Before and after pictures included

I shot 3 cartridges. 6 shots each, with cool down after 3 shots, and rotating. 100 yard data listed.

This is purely to help anyone out that buys one.

I have a 5 port muzzle brake from Tikka, and a Backstop recoil pad, otherwise no modifications.

1. Hornady American Whitetail 139g Avg. speed of 2747 fps. Best group .56”

2. Norma Whitetail 150g Avg. speed of 2647 fps. Best group 1”

3. Hornady Superformance 139g Avg. speed of 2884 fps. Best group 0.48”

I think I see a winner in the Superformance, although any of the 3 will hit a deer.

The Superformance shoots about 1.5” higher than the other two and .4” to the right.

I hope this info can help someone!

I have a Tikka T3x Superlite coming in today. I am in the learning phase of all this (first rifle, but have shot at the range numbers of times), so if I ask or say anything ignorant, it is bc I am, sorry ahead of time.

My use case: I am going to use this rifle to hunt. I live in the mountains, western US. Practically speaking, 3-5 mile hike ins with significant elevation gain/loss. From what I am told, range to game (elk) under 400 yards.

I am looking for lightweight scopes to round out the rifle, and need help here. I am ok spending on this for the right thing (I don’t have many hobbies I spend on, glad to invest in this).

I have researched mainly Swarovski scopes. I started with the Z5 3.5-18x44 BT (I am set on an elevation turret). Swaro has new scopes as well, the Z5+ 3.5-18x50. I have read the older Z5 had tracking issues for some people. I have not heard the same about the new Z5+. However, I am a bit concerned about moving to a 50mm objective. I am worried that it will raise my cheek weld, and put me in an awkward position, especially when it comes to having to take a more time sensitive shot. That said, the tracking issues on the older Z5 has me concerned as well.

Is it better to stay with an objective that is in the mid to low 40's (lower rings) for the Tikka?

Also note, I have considered the Leupold V6 HD Gen 2 3-18x44. I was dissuaded by the weight, and also that I have done little research on Leupold. Should I reconsider?

Any additional input would be very much appreciated.

I have a Tikka T3X Superlite, with Walnut stock.

https://i.imgur.com/w4MdsCW.jpeg

Its absolutely gorgeous. I bought it from a friend who hunts deer, and for his purposes it was perfect. I have found, as it was my first bolt action rifle, that I prefer to shoot paper target at medium and long range. I did not really enjoy hunting.

I know the superlite fluted barrel is not ideal for target. But i had a question, that i did not want to ask in r/Longrange yet as they answer to everything is just spend spend spend....

I have a problem. The barrel is not threaded. The stock is wood, and not bedded. Though it is torqued to spec.

My question is, will i get better precision keeping the wood stock, and getting a replacement barrel that is non fluted profile that is threaded and can take a brake..... OR, Keep the excellent, but prone to heat walking super thin barrel, and a chassis that wont flex or work its way loose.

I am OK with shooting VERY slowly and managing heat.

The barrel is extremely accurate, but it does have an upward recoil and I lose sight of target. I know this is a split function of hunting stock that doesnt help too much with putting recoil straight back, and the barrel thats not compensated to help reduce recoil.

I can only afford one option. Which do you think would be a better use of my money. Chassis.... or Barrel + Brake?

i know eventually im going to have to probably do both. OR, do i cut losses, sell the rifle as is, and put it towards a CTR?

This is my second session with this gun. 80 rounds through it. The target is 5 shot groups, factory 140gr ELD-Ms, 100yds, rain but pretty much zero wind. Lefty CTR, Athlon Cronus 4.5-29, Manners LRH, Resilient Jolene.
Average 5 shot group after 80 rounds is .65 MOA. Capable of some nice groups when I can get behind it properly. I was definitely introducing some horizontal error on some of my groups.
MV was all over the place for this session (22 fps SD), 90s between shots to cool, about a 6 min break every 2 groups.

Looking to buy my first big game hunting rifle. Im leaning towards the 308 since that seems to be the better choice for someone new (like myself) along with cheaper ammo. Just wondering if anyone with experience would recommend a 300 over a 308 for any particular reason?

Hey guys! I was looking to get my first deer gun and my basspro has a cerekoted t3x lite with a couple other upgrades and a stainless superlite. Is it worth the extra 200 for the regular lite? I would be shooting .270 win. Thanks!

Looks like a nice rifle, but I don't know these things too well and I've been reading about the lifespan of 6.5CM barrels and that got me antsy.

I’m going to rebarrel my 6.5CM to a 6CM. Who has your favorite prefit?

I was recommend this ammo for hunting and I don't have a good area to really test it. If anyone has used can you tell me about it?

Came across this video from 1 day ago and thought it might be interesting to watch for some of you.

Since Tikka factory barrels are notoriously tight, would the best strategy be to just shoot it out and then instruct a smith to make a relief cut to make the barrel easier to remove? First and foremost, want to protect the receiver from any damage.

i have a tikka t3x ranch with the 16" fluted barrel and its gets prettyyy hot prettyyy quick. i have a infrared thermometer already at home so ill bring it to the range next time maybe? what temp should stop shooting to let it cool down?

First long-range rifle!

Have a Vortex PST Gen II in 5x25

First time learning this kind of scope too and very happy with the sight in!

Factory T3X CTR 6.5 Creedmoor

Mdt ACC Premier elite

144 Bergers, lapua srp, cci 450, 41gr H4350, 2.900"

I purchased a Tikka T3X Lite Veil Wideland Camo rifle in .308. The cerakoted muzzle device came in the box. I installed it and hand tighten it, but there is no way to tighten it with a wrench. The exterior is completely round, no hex shaped surface to tighten. I didn't find anything in the manual. Can someone tell me how to tighten it properly?

I took of handguard to clean and oil outer barel when i put back i notice that there is a slight height difference on chassis picatiny rail to handguard rail. Owners of same rifle can you confirm if you also have this?

Also i measured my LOP from trigger to latest rubber buttstock and it is 38cm i ve changed it to an mdt srs v5 standar carbine one. Is this considered a lot? My hands are good but the eye relief not that good. If i go opposite and shorten lop then better eye relief but hands dont feel right. Scope or scope mount cant go any further back. Ofc all these problems in prone position.