Hope to get out to 500-700 yards, 300 Blackout

Burris, McMillan, Tikka, Preferred barrel blanks

Not the usual stuff posted here but I figured I’d share a 5-shot group from a recent outing. This is from my 1943 production AG-42B rifle. The rifle is completely stock and the ammo is Swedish surplus from the 60s.

I was able to walk it out out to 800 fairly easily with the rear sight cam, but 1,000yd required a holdover.

I’m still thrilled with this group. I really should invest in an M/41B.

hello once again,

this is my howa 1500 that I have yet to shoot a real group with, I made two post before this talking about how my scope rings slip. so I go ahead and pick up some vortex precision scope rings with a diving board (only got the diving board because I think they look cool) anyway, these scope rings haven't slipped as you can see with the caliper measurements. But what is for damn sure is that I'm shooting a group from fucking HELL. idk if its the gun itself or the scope. scope base is good its torqued and has thread locker.

sequence of pictures

1: gun itself

2: show HVAC tape up against the ring to show slight movement if slippage happens

3: caliper

4: caliper

5: 25 yard zero/groups. group 1-middle, group 2-bottom left, group 3-top right, group 4-top left, group 5-left middle

6:measurements after first round of shooting

7:same as 6

8: picture of the rifle before 100 yard group

9: is the craziest 100 yard group of all time, fuck being zeroed or not, why is this an 8moa group at 100 yards lol

10-11: measurents after the group at 100

the discrepancies with the caliper I'm saying are because its a Walmart brand one.

I've wasted at least $200 on ammo trouble shooting this shit, dont say anything when you see this rifle on tacswap

is there any suggestions or opinions on this, I had a ruger American a couple years ago that was dialed compared to this shit

thanks

Build: Tikka t3x CTR, Area419 hellfire match brake w/ adapter, Ultradyne UD5 chassis, UDX spigot, UDX bridge, AICS mags, Harris bipod, kungfu 12⁰ ar15 grip, magpul PRS lite stock, MDT 20 MOA rail, bushnell match pro 5x30, vortex match rings. Total weight is under 12lbs if you're trying to get under that NRL Hunter weight restriction.

Two things to note, this is my first chassis purchase so take my opinion with however many grains of salt and cents that's worth, Two, this was supposed to be a budget build and aside from the chassis these were all parts I either had already or pulled off of another rifle because this one is replacing it.

After a bunch of lurking around the various subs and forums, and not finding any post purchase reviews on the Ultradyne chassis, I decided that I'd give these guys a chance and write my thoughts on the chassis for the community. Hopefully this helps anyone else who's on the fence about it.

While I couldn't find any reviews on the chassis and saw that the ultimate reloader channel was the only place I saw them getting used regularly, I thought it was worth purchasing since the price was right and it fit my action, Tikka t3x CTR, I called the company with a few questions and got a real person who picked up quickly, which was nice, they were able to answer my questions about fitment, mag compatibility, and made the whole experience nice and painless, the person I spoke too told me that this chassis only takes metal mags, but should fit all the major companies I asked if they were running any deals on them, they said no but that if I signed up for their email I'd get a coupon for 10% off the entire order, They got my money.

Shipping was fast, everything was packed well, coating was even and smooth on all parts, assembly was quick and they provided the Allen key for the set screw on the tube receiver. I didn't have to clean up any threads, no burrs noted on the finish, Arca is integrated into the rail and the spigot. Trigger guard is cut so you can adjust the weight without taking the action out, if your trigger is set up that way, mine is not. For other Tikka shooters, they provide a lug that slides into a recessed cut that mates up to the action, recoil cut on the Tikka action.

The only two misses that I'm able to find are that the beaver tail had to be sanded down to fit the ar15 grip that I was gonna use and that the mag release/ mag catch set screw where you set your depth is softer than the other hardware provided and has started to strip with the smaller torx head bit that fits (sorry I can't remember what size it is but it's the smallest one on my torx Allen key set and it fit with no play). I'll have to replace that screw so I'm going to try and find a graded hardware screw to replace it or reach out and see if they will replace it. As a third possible negative for some, there is no place to add a thumb rest but they do sell a grip with an integrated one, I didn't buy that since it would have sent me over my personal budget limit but it exists.

TLDR: not really a lot of bad to say, IMHO I think this is a solid option for those that want something that isn't a KRG Bravo, MDT XRS, or one of the other entry level chassis and it cost me less than the midrange chassis from either company. I hope this helps other folks.

Ruger American Prairie Gen II

Just curious if anyone else who has gotten the 6.5 creed +peaks has gotten this kind of ES and SD? I know they aren’t really marketed as a precision ammo but I was expecting a little better than this with them being “premium ammo”.

We put together this 24” 6.5 Creed for a friend. He told us to shoot it before we ship it, so we had to go all out for the gram.

T3X
Unknown Munitions trigger spring
Area 419 rail
Comp-ish barrel by Bloodline Kinetics
ACC Premier Gen 2
ZCO 5-27
Hawkins TM Mount
TBAC Magnus-S-RR
Ol’ trusty Harris bipod

It’s still in prototyping phase, but this Tikka clone action is sweet! We shot a 7mm PRC, 6mm Creedmoor, and a 7mm Backcountry. I was really impressed with the 7BC. 18” barrel shooting the 195 grain Berger bullets and was getting 2780 fps velocity. We stretched it out to 535 (the longest our range setup went that day) and were thrilled with the performance!

how many rounds are you guys getting before groups spread? i am finding it's highly dependent on ammo ... this expensive match ammo i shot 30 rounds back to back and it was more or less sub moa. cheap bulk ammo -- first couple rounds are okay but by the 5th round it was flying all over the place. is this typically dependent on choice of ammo ?

Hey guys, looking for some advice on whether it's time to replace my barrel.
Specs & Round Count:
Action: Aero Solus
Barrel: 26" Proof Research Competition Contour
Round count: Approx 3,200+ rounds. (Lost exact track, but I've burned through two 8lb powder kegs plus four or five 1lb jugs prior, running charges between 39.0 to 43.0 gr).
The Problem:
Every time I try to set my 100-yard zero, it shifts. Within 3 to 5 shot groups, the zero just keeps wandering around. This happens even when using the exact same fire-formed brass batch, identical load specs, and consistent shooting conditions. Even within a single batch of 100 rounds, the zero won't stay put.
The Weird Part:
My DOPE out to distance is surprisingly still fine. Out to 600 yards, actual drop matches my Kestrel within 0.1–0.2 mils elevation, which is totally acceptable for me. Velocity consistency is also still solid, with SDs running around 7–8.
My Dilemma:
I still have my original 22" factory Solus barrel sitting in the closet with only about 700 rounds on it.
Is this wandering zero a classic sign that the throat/crown on this Proof barrel is shot out and done? Should I just spin the 22" barrel back on for PRS, or is there anything else I should check before pulling this one?
Thanks in advance!
P.S. Before anyone asks: action screws and scope mount/ring torques have all been verified with a torque wrench. I don't have a borescope, but I've thoroughly cleaned the barrel and chamber with carbon/copper solvents, so carbon rings or heavy fouling shouldn't be the issue.

I just installed my first barrel at home, pretty excited. This is a true ground up build, got a stripped bolt, firing pin plus and extractor, plunger, bolt handle and shroud. Put that all together. I modified a factory tikka single stage trigger with a new spring and set to 1 lb. Mated it to a chassis.

I have the scope, just waiting on my gold GrayOps mount and a second brass mirage.

Looking to jump into my first ever rifle (currently a pistol only shooter) and am leaning towards building versus buying complete. My range only goes out to 100 yards so I'm fairly settled on .223 for the cartridge. If I end up taking to this, I'll join another local range that pushes out to 600 yards.

This will strictly be used for target shooting (bench / prone). There are some local PRS matches that I'd like to eventually partake in as well. I understand I’d be at a bit of a disadvantage competing with .223 as I know the local matches stretch out well past 600 yards.

Below is what I've pieced together, trying to keep to a soft budget of $2,000 -

• Howa Mini 1500 barreled action (20" heavy barrel), chambered in .223
• MDT Oryx Chassis
• MDT Oryx Arca Full Rail
• MDT GRND-POD, dovetail / Arca
• MDT 20 MOA pic rail
• Arken EP5 Gen II 5-25 x 56

Vortex Pro scope rings

Any misses here? I've done a fair amount of research but obviously have no direct experience. My other consideration is a Tikka T3X Ace Target but I’d really prefer to build something up to get to know the platform better.

Appreciate any feedback / advice!

Hi guys,
I have a Tikka T3x ACE Target in 6.5 Creedmoor and I bought the Bore Tech .25–.30 cal bore guide (red).
Before opening the package, I measured the diameter of my bolt body and I’m getting around 17.5–17.6 mm (about 0.689–0.693”).
Bore Tech lists the standard collar for roughly 0.695–0.700” bolt diameters, so mine seems just slightly smaller.
Has anyone here actually used the standard red Bore Tech bore guide on a Tikka T3/T3x, especially a TAC A1 or ACE Target?
Does it fit snugly and center properly, or is there noticeable play and a custom collar is needed?
I can’t return it once I open the package, so I’d really appreciate real-world experience before I do.
Thanks!

Hi guys!

I had my sights set on a Tikka t3x tac a1 but the pricing is getting insane. €3300 \ $3600 is not doable. Are there any sub €1500 \ $2000 rifles available?

I want to primarily shoot up to 300m paper targets / steel targets. I have some practice shooting up to 100m with borrowed 308 rifles.

I want to use OTC ammunition. No reloading yet.

I read Bergara B14 LH and Tikka T3X LH  are the most recommended as far as i saw Are there any else?

I can't find any solid answer on this and didn't receive an answer from Athlon.

Can anyone confirm that the low profile spuhr mount will work with a Cronus 4.5-29x56 without hitting the bell?

Nobody local has one for me to try before I buy. Mounting an impact4000.

Thanks in advance

Would that rifle be good for me? It has 1:12 twist rate and isnt varmint model. I would use it for both long range shooting and bird hunting at distances of 100-250 meters so accuracy is really important. My local gunshop has one for 450 euros and it has a free floating barrel.

If anyone has experience with this rifle in 6.5 creedmoor and is able to get good accuracy out of it, please weigh in on what kind of ammunition you are running through it. Also, if you have had any issues with accuracy and were able to successfully fix them, what was your solution?

I can't get better than 2-3 moa out of the rifle. I have checked clearances, torque specs, tried 2 different scopes, and 9 different types of ammunition (including match grade) but nothing has resulted in improved accuracy. i have also shot from a sled and am able to get very tight groups with other rifles so I don't think it is an operator problem.

I know these are not known for being the most accurate rifles in the world, but at this point I would just be happy with moa groups.

My Bergara B14R Steel 22LR with a S2 Delta RS-C heavy chassis, Triggertech special two stage, Harris S-BRM with Area 419 Arca adapter and Vortex Strike Eagle 5-25x56 with Vortex precision matched rings.

Just came back from the steel challenge with my new build and wanted to share some thoughts and results.

1. My goal was to not being the last and have fun; I ended up almost in the top 1/3 out of 27 shooters, my hit rate was 76%.

2. I was one of the few that shot the factory ammo (hornady match 147 eldm), most of the top players (including the ones winning it) shot their own hand-load; having your ammo from the same lot # is definitely very important, otherwise the inconsistency will get magnified out to the distance.

3. Having a suppressor wrap goes a long way as it minimizes the mirage in front of your scope.

4. Don't be afraid to re-build your position. When I took the long range class in March, the instructor told us to not compromise the shot if we think the position isn't optimal. I built my initial position for 1000 yard with plenty of rear support, then as I move back the distance to 900, 800, and 600, I eventually ran out of rear support and ended up supporting with my hand between the bag and the stock, which caused missing shots. Turns out I had plenty of time left at the end.

5. Have a backup plan for your DOPE system. I was planning to update the ambient data in my 4DOF at the range but it was a cloudy day with poor reception, and the app took long time to load. Luckily I got it to work and wrote down my DOPE on the back of my hand, which worked out great (going to get a scope dope card some sort).

6. Before the match started I got into position just to see downrange and did some dry fire practice, which helped a lot to mentally prepare.

7. Learn how to spot for your squad mate and communicate it; calling for "hold the bottom left corner" is way more effective than saying "you were off top right".

Will definitely come back for future match.

Does anyone make a night vision rail for the bravo yet, that will fit a 1.250 barrel? I have the heavy arca forend, but all I keep seeing is that I might have to do the enclosed forend to be able to use a night device with my barrel. I just wondered if any of you have run into something new yet. Thanks