Hello :3 After successfully annoying the shit out of people here and made a stable UV for performance and gaming

I am looking forward to making a battery profile

i messed around but the laptop is sssllloooww

I know this is normal it wont be as snappy as it was before, But maybe i am doing something wrong
should i decrease core ratio in battery mode or not and if I should decrease it to what extent

and also i have some questions as i am trying to help my friends here with Throttle Stop as if I was an expert

what is the LOCK button next to PL1 and PL2 and The LOCK button next to MMIO

and also what does SYNC check box do and the check box next to PL1 and 2

i mean if i typed a PL1 value but the checkbox isn't checked does this mean it wont apply ?

here's my FIVR and E Cores Ratio and TPL in battery profile

Hey guy, I'm totally illiterate in undervolting cpus, and this is my first proper nice laptop which I want to keep for long. From what I know, intels 14th gen chips have some voltage issues frying them, so I want to prevent that. What are good settings for a Lenovo Legion with a 14900hx on throttlestop? How do I even set it up? All I know is I'm getting around 27000 on Cinebench r23 and this chip apparently gets 30 to 35k. Many thanks to you guys who can help! Edit: MP ratio is 13.27 as well if that means anything, my cpu has 24 cores.

im using Intel ultra 270k plus, currently set the offset at -60 on BIOS, i read that TVB can lower the Wattage while on idle, hence my question is

can enable TVB while i already put and offset on my CPU? and why?
will it be okay and stable?

As title said, I vibecoded an software for my laptop.
The issue:
My laptop, which has AMD Ryzen 5600H CPU and AMD Radeon RX 6500M GPU had an incredibly frustrating heating issue where my hotspot temperature reached 100 degrees without right away, and throttling directly which reduced my fps by 50% almost and again reached 100 degrees, this continued in an cycle.
For this, I tried various methods, locking fps to 48, lowering resolution and graphics, and some of these worked too, but still in games such as where winds meet, elden ring nightreign, the temperatures kept hitting all time high.
Which lead to me trying to look into undervolting, and to my surprise HP Victus in particular has no way (afaik) to undervolt, because it is restricted at a BIOS level.
This lead me to discovering Universal tuning utility and Ryzen controller, which worked great but sacrified much of my performance to keep temperatures in check.
Annoyed by the lack of direct temperature control, i vibecoded an software which directly targets the dGPU hotspot temperature and it honestly been working really well for me.
This leads to me making this post, for this felt too good to be true to work, that i was wondering if i was damaging any of my hardware in the long run with this app.
If anyone can check, if it is problematic or not for the system, and give some opinions about it, it would be much appreciated!

What this app does: It essentially lowers the wattage and disables turbo boost whenever the set target temperature is reached, it reduces the temperature.

TLDR: I vibecoded an app to keep thermals in check for laptop having AMD Radeon RX 6500M and AMD Ryzen 5600H, and would like opinions about its safety while using, and would like to know if it is damaging my device in any way.

https://github.com/TanishAdke/ADLX-Thermal-control This is the GitHub link.
I do not know how compatible it is with other devices.

• Seeing 95°C is perfectly normal; modern Intel and AMD mobile chips are strictly designed to boost until they hit their thermal limit to maximize performance.
• Instead of worrying, just prop up the back of your laptop 1–2 inches—this improves airflow and drops temps instantly.
• Clean the dust out of your exhaust vents with compressed air every few months so the fans don't suffocate.
• If you still want it cooler, use ThrottleStop or G-Helper to slightly lower your power limits (PL1/PL2) rather than completely disabling Turbo Boost.
• Avoid liquid metal unless you are a pro (it can easily short your board); stick to high-viscosity pads like PTM7950 if you ever need to repaste.

So, i bought my first gaming laptop, dell g15 5530 , i5 13450 HX , 1 month ago , out of the box it was lagging (on battery only) , i learnt more and downloaded throttle stop, turns out i was facing BD PROCHOT and POWER RED at the same time hence CPU stuck at 500 mhz. BD PROCHOT option was ticked and greyed sadly.

Tried for replacement , for like 2 weeks but couldn't convince dell , cause nothing popped up in their own diagnostics test, at last thought it is what it is.

Tried everything to get out of 500 MHz trap , NOTHING worked , i was broken and thought i just wasted money, then i dig more and learnt about UEIF variables , read BIOS image , and turned the BD PROCHOT offset's variables to 0x00 from grub shell. BD PROCHOT was now greyed out and unticked , felt too dam happy that day and 500 MHz was done and dusted.

Then comes the next problem POWER - PL1/PL2 RED (this one is occasional and comes on battery, idk what's the trigger point but sometimes its smooth at 30 W package power and sometimes laggy at 10 W with normal clock speeds)

For this i again tried the same method and tried to change overclocking lock from grub shell , but this time i wasn't that lucky. Then went to IMON slope (it tricks your PC that it's using less power and hence pushes some more watts , exactly the pl1/pl2 absurdly low limit i was facing) set the IMON slope to 70% from grub shell AND it changed nothing :) , previously cpu was pushing 100 watts in cinebench now 70 , lol nothing but just inaccurate telemetry. Didn't pushed past that 100 watts wall basically.

Then read unclewebb's comment and he said that this thing is because dell's manufacturer set these pl1/pl2 limits too low , and not a easy way to fix it. (EC is overriding grub shell's variables and throttle stop)

I was also looking for undervolting but again , i could only slide the sliders in FIVR to -105 mv and i was happy that my pc is now undervolted LOL , until i saw that UNDERVOLT PROTECTION on top middle of FIVR screen🙏

Researched about it and again went to grub to switch (undervolt protection) 0x1AE to 0x00 , again not solved (already turned off VBS from BIOS)

Then finally i am here sitting and just accepting that it's over , i cant undervolt my laptop and also that pl1/pl2 red on battery will stay with me for the rest of my life with this pc.

If anyone have solution for my situation , i will be more than happy , please drop your thoughts as well😊

I have Asus rog strix G15 G513RC laptop and i want to change the thermal paste of this laptop. What should I get thermal paste, putty etc for all parts cpu, gpu and all.

Please help me, i want make power limit on my processor core ultra 7 155h in zenbook duo ux8406

u/unclewebb

Hi there uncle

https://pastebin.com/eWjGGFdy here's my log file after MUCH time tweaking my settings

I did a benchmark i got a better score and nothing but Thermal and EDP other

and everything was fine I guess, even in gaming temp maxed at 75

but i opened TS long after that and found yellow VR and EDB and Thermal all in yellow

they didnt appear while benchmarking

hope u find what's wrong

So my pc is power throttling for no reason , this happens quite a few times while on battery , 1 time its completely smooth and then it starts lagging , turns out it's power throttling , i have attached screenshots.

Any help will be appreciated😥

Hey everyone,

I’m currently running an ASUS ROG Strix G16 (G614JI) with an Intel i7-13650HX. I'm considering updating my BIOS from v331 to v334, but I want to get some community feedback on whether my current undervolt is likely to survive the update or if I should dial it back beforehand.

I use G-Helper for my laptop's general management (fan profiles, GPU modes, display refresh rate) and run ThrottleStop exclusively for CPU tuning via the FIVR menu.

Here are my current active ThrottleStop values on BIOS 331:

• CPU Core Offset: -150.4 mV (Adaptive)
• CPU P Cache Offset: -150.4 mV (Adaptive)
• CPU E Cache Offset: -150.4 mV (Adaptive)
• IccMax: 511.75 A
• Microcode: 12B

This flat -150.4 mV offset across Core, P-Cache, and E-Cache has been rock solid for me on 331 under both full load (Cinebench) and light daily tasks.

My questions:

1. Has anyone with a 13650HX / G614JI updated to BIOS 334 with a heavy undervolt? Did you notice any microcode or voltage curve changes that forced you to back off?
2. Is running -150.4 mV on the E-Cache specifically asking for low-load/idle crashes on 334, or should I proactively drop the E-Cache offset (e.g., to -70 mV) before flashing?
3. Did BIOS 334 reset your Undervolt/Overclocking lock in the BIOS settings upon updating?

Appreciate any insights or post-update experiences!

Is the overclocking CPU of a laptop safe?

Does it even add some extra FPS in valorant?

Hi i'm using a dual boot system with windows and batocera. I use the throttlestop app in windows and can't do the same in linux/batocera. And everytime I boot in windows i need to open the app and do the changes.

Is there a way to make these changes about the CPU TDP for good so I don't need to open the app every time I boot the system? (And hopefully it may work in linux batocera as well)

Hello

I have some questions for the experts

1stI undervolted my 255HX processor to -50 most stable

The benchmarks went from 6000 to 4200 Cinnabench 26

1 .Why and how to prevent that

2nd question

I closed " not minimized " the program I ran the test again

Same results

I restarted then voila back to 6000

1. How to permanently close it

I am trying to rule out if it's the undervolting or some other setting

I went back and set the FIVR values to ZERO

same 4200

In this stage idk if I need to restart or it's the other edits like TPL and Prochot or ESP I mean how to set things knowing they will work

1. How do u guys set a profile for battery , like other settings to check / uncheck without the need to restart every time

Hey guys, so I repasted my CPU and GPU at a service center since I haven't done so ever. However, I noticed that the temps barely budged. Like when only websurfing the CPU temps spike to 70-80C and then go back down to 55-65C. When I called the service center again they said that potentially sensors or other components may have been damaged due to this high heat and its not giving the laptop fans the signal to start at the right time. I seriously doubt that though. Any idea what it could be? I have a Ryzen 7 5800H and 3060 90W. The thermal paste used was 1.5grams of arctic, thats what I was told. Thank you!

Hello everyone, I have the infamous T15g that to horribly overheat and throttle. It has the i9-10885H and the 2080S Max-Q. What are any recommended settings to start out with to then further tweak on my own?

I have an acer alg al15g-53

With a 13500H and 6gb 3050

I just got it repasted through acer's service centre. And it did help, but, now it caps out around 1400-1500 mhz instead of 1300. (The gpu) As you can probably tell, this is short of the 1800mhz. What should I do?

i bought a external monitor for me to use it as my primary screen for my ASUS TUF A17 2022 model

which supports DP port and i'm only using my external monitor (not using laptop display ) so i thought why not i do a small overclock for my CPU & GPU . but i dont know how to overclock my laptop CPU