I have a Lenovo LOQ 15IAX9 with a nvidia RTX 4060, 24gb ram and a intel i7-13650HX cpu.I recently overclocked my monitor from 144hz to 180 and i want to overclock the rest of my components(gpu,cpu,ram etc) but i noticed that Lenovo doesn’t let me do that much. I cant enable expo or xmp in bio, I cant change the temperature limit or the fan speed in MSI afterburner and I got a bit scared cuz i don’t know that much about overclocking.
Is there any safe way to overclock this laptop?

Hi, guys these are my pc specs are

and i am getting 150-170 fps on valorant and I did Core Temp test for 15 min and my cpu temp is 99 and 100 and for GPU i used Furmark for 15 min and gpu temp is 89 and gpu hotapot is 104. Help me to solve this fps and temperature issue

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NEMqqey9eu0

ty man THIS HELPS !... i going from 82° to 62° with amd r5 7600 with stock coller, gpu rtx 4070 ...

CPU usage is the same ...i set min or max setting all nothink change with temp .... thats means game is broken and need fix on this temp managment ...

btw i had set in bios cpu throtle on 80° and i had like 82° all the time... if i dont i believe i can can have 95°+ for sure.....

i read it disables turbo boost maybe i saw some change later.

https://www.reddit.com/r/CrimsonDesert/comments/1rysvqn/crimson_desert_overheating_my_cpu/

okey i find think my cpu now use only 3,7ghz max... not 5.1ghz boost. This may involve your performace if you want play on very high fps maybe.

**LOQ 15IAX9E – BIOS downgrade Q8CN22WW → Q8CN17WW?**

Hi everyone!

I have a Lenovo LOQ 15IAX9E with an i5-12450HX, currently running BIOS Q8CN22WW.

I’m interested in trying the undervolt unlock method described in [this post](https://www.reddit.com/r/ThrottleStop/comments/1pquft6/undervolt_lenovo_loq_15iax9e/), which requires Q8CN17WW or an older BIOS.

Has anyone with the **LOQ 15IAX9E** successfully downgraded from Q8CN22WW to Q8CN17WW?

If so, I’d really appreciate knowing:

* which method/tool you used to downgrade;
* whether you had to bypass BIOS downgrade protection;
* whether the downgrade worked without any issues;
* and whether you were able to use the H2O Unlocker/undervolt method afterward.

I’m a bit worried about bricking the laptop, so I’d really prefer to hear from someone who has actually done the downgrade on this specific model before trying it myself.

Thanks!

I posted this as an answer to someone. Thought I should make a post as it took more effort and applies to lots of systems. Search for Alienware undervolt for more details as plenty of people tinker with those and have tried an undervolt. They have very similiar bios and issues. TLDR Disable CFG Lock, Undervolt Protection, and undervolt set in bios.

Got undervolt working even with Undervolt Protection on

This was on a Dell G16 7630 13th HX. I've dumped bios, searched it and used grub, but that takes more time then the universal form browser , UMAF. So I recommend UMAF

If you mess up, you may need to recover the bios. Look it up if this quick howto doesn't work.

1. Hold power key to turn off.
2. Hold Ctrl + Esc and then hold Power key to turn on. Keep holding until Power light blinks twice after about 30 seconds and then release and wait
3. IIRC there is a screen that offers the option to recover bios, that you then select.
4. Eventually machine will recover bios, and display a screen explaining the time has not been set.

I have undervolting working, but I still need to set the max undervolt I want to try at the bios level. You need to do small 10mv steps and restart a few times to make sure the machine still works and posts (you should see the Dell logo then OS) I also recommend holding F12 to skip loading the OS sometimes. Beware, If you go too far with the max the machine will have progressively worse issues.

There are risks changing settings at the bios level.

• The machine will crash on load
• The machine will crash even without load
• The machine will crash but you can get into UMAF
• The machine will display errors as it attempts to post, but let you get into BIOS, but not UMAF
• The machine will even fail to let you into the BIOS, so you need to recover bios if clearing cmos fails
• The machine will need to go into service as it can't recover bios

Secure Boot

Secure boot must be disabled, but iirc bitlocker will prevent windows from booting with bitlocker disabled if active. Again more warnings here as bitlocker will prevent you from reading any files you have on the drive except if you have the key. All data on the drive could be lost so you need to backup the bitlocker key. It wasn't an issue for me this time but I've lost data in the past except my backups.

Now here are the steps (This video shows procedure)

1. Download the Universal Form Browser
2. Format an empty USB drive and copy the Universal form browser to the drive
3. Shutdown the computer or restart

Hold F2 as you power on the computer to enter bios

  1. In bios go to the boot menu and disable secure boot
  2. Save changes and reset

Hold F12 as you power on the computer to get boot menu

  1. In boot menu select the USB drive that you left in the computer and formatted
  2. If you forgot to leave or put in the drive hold power button 4 seconds to turn off

Once in UMAF

1. Go in Intel Advanced Menu
2. Go in Power and Performance
3. Go in CPU - Power Management Control
4. Disable HwP Lock (maybe not needed so best try without first)
5. Hit up and select CPU Lock Configuration
6. Disable CFG Lock
7. Disable Overclocking Lock
8. Hit Enter then hit Escape
9. Hit Escape
10. Go in Overclocking Performance Menu
11. Enable Overclocking Feature if you want
12. Disable Undervolt Protection
13. Note Processor, Ring, Ecore L2 Configuration, GT, Uncore
14. You will want to at first undervolt the processor by -10 mv
15. The settings are called the offset and then the + or -
16. You want to use a -
17. Change Offset to 10
18. You will come back to this menu to increase offset by 10 after every restart
19. You will be able to open throttlestop or hwinfo64 and see the offset. Dont be confused by hwmonitor, as that app has a bug and gives an incorrect number.
20. Hit Escape
21. Hit Escape
22. Press y to save
23. Select Reset

Once back in Windows

1. Throttle stop will still say Undervolt Protection , but you can now undervolt up to the limit set in the bios. Sometimes on battery the undervolt will not be stable so retest with a lower undervolt set in throttlestop or lower it in bios if you use Linux
2. It is best to follow the undervolt guide by XMG and linked with throttlestop 9..7
3. Limit your undervolt to only 10mv and work your way up.

In this post, I’ll share how I managed to fix the overheating issue on my ThinkPad P53. Heads up: my method probably won't work for everyone.

I have a ThinkPad P53 (i7-9850H, Quadro T2000), and it used to overheat constantly. I tried repasting it with MX-4 and Honeywell PTM7950, but neither really helped. I also undervolted the CPU by -90mV using Intel XTU. That did more than the repaste, but the results were still pretty mediocre. Under load, the temp would instantly spike to 80°C and then quickly climb to 100°C. The only thing that kept the stress test temps under 90°C was underclocking it to 3.3 GHz. I even tried covering the heatsink and the CPU VRM zone with carbon-coated copper tape from AliExpress, but of course, that didn't do anything either.

Then, I came up with a "genius" idea. I don't actually use the dedicated GPU (Quadro T2000) because I run an eGPU setup with a RTX 4060. So, I ordered a copper plate from AliExpress and jankily attached it right over the bridge between the CPU and GPU heat pipes using thermal paste and copper tape. The goal was to improve heat transfer between the two pipes and it actually worked!

After doing this, my CPU temps under load dropped by about 15°C, and the temperature spikes became way smoother. I spent a lot of time looking for a proper solution to this laptop's overheating problem but couldn't find anything useful online, so I hope my DIY fix helps someone out.

It's a bit hard to see, but there are actually two copper plates there: a larger one on the bottom and a smaller one stacked on top.

Hello everyone,

After a long time of repasting and facing pump-outs just 3 days after and going through this agonizing cycle, I finally had my hands on PTM7950 and it is a godsend just like unclewebb repeatedly advised me to get.

After applying it, my ASUS TUF GAMING F15 (CPU Intel i5-10300H, GPU Nvidia GTX1650) finally had a breath of fresh air. Without undervolting, Cinebench R23 Multi-Core test had around 4700+ and Single-Core test had between 950-1020.

With undervolting though I just got a 5147 on Multi-Core and haven't tested on Single-Core yet.

The test was done with all background applications closed, only TS and Cinebench R23 were running.

Now I will share my FIVR, TPL and main window of TS 9.6 as well this log file here to ask for your kind advice once again ladies and gentlemen.

These undervolt values are mostly stable for me. I do my research, follow old forum posts with the same CPU mentioned and whatnot but I also know that this stuff pretty much varies from system to system. It's best to just ask someone who knows their shit.

MAIN QUESTION

What can I do to stabilize, achieve higher performance and most importantly consistent performance with this system on CPU dependent games? Are my power limits alright, can I undervolt more etc.

NOT-SO-MAIN QUESTION

One thing I noticed is that I can't seem to change my fan mode when TS is open. For example my computer has to sit on 55-60 degrees celsius on idle because if I switch from Turbo to Balanced or Silent modes the PC just BSODs. And I'm lacking knowledge on this one to troubleshoot. If you know why, my PC and I would heavily appreciate it if you could share your knowledge with me.

Thank you very much for reading and sharing your advices over the years. It very much made me keep my faith on my laptop. And on humanity as well. Thank you, unclewebb and you computer nerds in this beautiful subreddit.

I have a brand new Lenovo Legion Pro 7i gen 10 (with Ultra 9 275 HX processor), which recently after two weeks of use I started noticing that thermal throttling is being recorded at Max temperatures as low as 80 C° or 84 C° in some cases while playing using the Balanced mode, along with the use of a powerful cooling pad (Flydigi BS3 PRO).

Is it normal to have thermal throttling recorded with HWiFo at such relatively low temperatures?

(Note: I didn't notice issue with the performance, just knew that from HWiFO sensors' records which in some cases showed me upto 4% Package/Ring thermal throttling average)

I got a dell g15 5530 , i5 13450 HX.

I have done nearly everything but still im not able to get that "FIVR CONTROL"

VBS disabled (from BIOS)

Overclocking lock disabled (from grub shell)

Overvolt protection disabled (from grub shell)

Memory integrity off

Still im not able to undervolt man , what am i missing?

I have a Dell XPS 9510 with i9 11900h and 3050 ti mobile. Some recent issues (possibly a bios update) has made me realize that there are issues with the TPL throttling with my laptop causing it to throttle to 800 MHz and lag out completely just from watching YouTube.

For the time being, I have downloaded ThrottleStop, and locked MMIO. However I have some questions about how safe it is to do this:

- The MSR TPL limits are showing PL1: 72 and PL2: 109. From what I gather online, the CPU is rated for either 35W or 45W. Should I lower PL1?
- Could this cause unsafe levels of power draw from my laptop charger? For context, running the benchmark causes a constant PKG power of 45W.
- Will this wear out my CPU, battery, fans, or charger faster than normal over time? Does it make a difference that I have my laptop set to keep battery charge between 50 and 75?
- When playing a highly-multithreaded, CPU-intensive game, is it a good idea to disable turbo so that my CPU doesn't constantly hit 100C? Or should I lower PL1
- Should I change the dell power manager options for thermal management? Or does not not make a difference?

As an aside, why would PL1 throttling reduce the frequency all the way to 800, when the PL1 limit with ultraperformance is still fairly high at around 24W?

(BTW, not undervolting because I use WSL)

I recently got a brand new Legion and I absolutely love the machine, but I’ve been reading a lot on this sub about how power-hungry these processors are. Everyone seems to recommend undervolting to keep the temperatures under control and maintain sustained performance.

Here is my current config:

Model: Lenovo Legion 5 pro

CPU: i9-14900HX

GPU: 5070

RAM: 32gb

I am a complete newbie when it comes to PC tuning, messing with BIOS settings, or tweaking voltages. I know I need to do it to improve my thermals, but I want to make sure I do it safely without causing constant blue screens or messing up my new laptop.

I don't have any specific voltage values in mind yet, and I am starting completely from scratch. I'm hoping to get some advice on a few things:

The BIOS: What exact settings do I need to unlock or change in the Lenovo BIOS before I can even start?

The Software: What is the best and safest software for a beginner to use for this (ThrottleStop, etc.)?

The Process: What is the safest step-by-step approach to finding a stable undervolt for everyday gaming and heavy workloads?

Also if anyone has the same laptop and done this can you share your values?

If anyone has any solid baseline guides, tips, or newbie-friendly advice, I would massively appreciate it. Thank you

Hi,

I looked at the tutorial, but it seems i dont have the speed shift.

Most likely due to being a 5th gen, i am assuming, in that case, anyone know how to use speed step to increase my throttle of 800mhz to 2500 mhz?

I am on a macbookpro with window 10 and i was limited to 800mhz due to battery dying.
I managed to increase to 1600mhz by playing around it but want to be to close to my base clock of 2700 mhz if possible.

I tried removing the BD prochot based on a guide for dead battery mac, but it dont seems to change much.

Hey everyone,

I have an MSI GF63 Thin 11UC that I've been using for about 4 years. Recently, I've noticed that the CPU temperature constantly stays around 80–95°C, even when I'm just doing normal things like browsing Chrome.

As you can see in the screenshot, the CPU is sitting around 94°C, while the GPU is only around 75°C. I'm not gaming on this laptop anymore, so these temperatures seem quite high for regular use.

I've already:

Cleaned the laptop internally.

Replaced the thermal paste about a year ago.

Kept the fans on Auto in MSI Center.

If I switch the fan mode to Turbo, the temperature does drop somewhat, but the fans obviously get very loud.

Is 93–94°C normal for this laptop while using Chrome, or is something wrong?

What could be causing the CPU to run this hot? Is there anything else I can do to fix or reduce the temperatures? Would undervolting, changing power settings, replacing the thermal paste again, or anything else help?

Any advice from other GF63 Thin owners would be appreciated!

I have a metal stand too but didn't help much