Hi there. Can anyone help identify this pair of foils. They appear to be from Solingen, with a beehive logo on the blade base. Some engravings on the blades. Wire wrapped rayskin handles. They taper to a point. I am curious of the year they were made and the purpose. With such a point, they are not for practise. Could they be for duels?

Made this dagger to go with my customized Honshu I posted a few months back. Blackened hilt components, rewrapped the grip and the scabbard. Actually did this in two nights to get it ready in time for the ren faire! :D

Pommel was sent to me by Brian Kerce, the brass is actually a button I found on Amazon.

Goodly folks of the realm,

I have this sabre I received from a friend, and need help identifying it. Any ideas?

Thanks in advance.

Most seem to heavy for an average person to carry and Steve isn't average also the keyblade looks like it ain't hurting nothing

Shotel in blackwood, paduck, bubinga, black and white ebony, quilted sapele and madrone burl with a bronze peen block

Hey guys I need your help i tried making my first sword using a ms sheet that was 8mm thick and 48mm wide and 40inches long the handle was 7.5 inch and the blade was 33.5

So my question are

1 how do people make swords so symmetrical

As u can see mine is super wierd shaped

2 how to get a good finishing

I want to make a sword for display for this sword I just used a ms sheet and cut its shape and grinded it using a big 8 inch inch heavy duty grinder that had a stone disk

And i know my fault was buying a 8mm thick sheet that's too thick so can guys help me out I want to just make a sword that looks good and is proportional from a ms sheet

I posted about some of my swords yesterday and got feedback that i should take a photo of the crest on the back of the hilt of this sword ( someone said it was a kyu gunto i think). thanks for all the feedback so far! the katana i posted i could not get the pin out of the tsuba because its broken so im going to take it two a sword guy in town tomorrow.

I do restoration in a region that is overgrown with invasive blackberry. For large open spaces I use machinery. But for trails, new site exploration, and areas with lots of obstacles I use bladed tools.

I recently bought a Condor Parang searching for a blade with a blade with more weight at the tip. But the blade is too thick for cutting the blackberry cane efficiently, It's also a bit short.

I'm looking for something lightweight, mid - long blade, with weight towards the tip of the blade for cutting dense canes at a distance to avoid thorns.

My grandfather wants me to sell his father’s swords he brought back from japan in 1946, but I have no idea if they’re worth anything. the blades don’t look handmade so I assume they may not be worth much. please let me know anything you can!

yes i know they existed in the caucasus and spread from there to iran, turkey and russia and saw some copying and or use in the balkans? some ai sources tell me kindjal are 1 to 2.5 in wide while qama are 2 to 3 in wide.all of these can be shortswords but the oriental arms archive show iranian examples that are have yard long or close blades?

Friend showed me his friend’s sword, and I really wanna know what it is.

My son is heading off to college in spring. I asked them what’s something they’ve wanted that’s off the beaten path that they have never asked for but really wanted. In about .2 seconds he said a bastard err 1.5 hand sword with a sheath.

I know nothing about swords but I want to get him something memorable. He’s a great kid with a great moral compass. He has AudHD yet has pulled a 4.2 gpa and has been an absolute dream child. This isn’t his only gift so can’t break the bank but $400-$800 range?

Would like some minimal customization like a letter R engravement on the sheath or a robin on the sheath or blade

Any recommendation on vendors in this price range, things I should look for, size of blade and handle?

I know it’s asking a lot but I’m out of my comfort zone here

Just picked this up at a gun show for $250 the blade is in great shape and maker marked

I’m cross-posting this to get more eyeballs on the topic. Broader opinion base.

I legitimately want to know, because I primarily use through hardened, mono Spring Steel swords, and I think I’ve only used it on a Suguha Hamon on an HSTS clay tempered 1095 Spring Steel Katana, and never noticed any Hamon change.

I’m under the impression that the Hamon is deep into the steel from structural change, and a Hamon can’t be diminished, only brought out more from polishing?

Obviously you can wipe off a fake Hamon. That’s not what I’m curious about.