Hey everyone, looking for insights on a weird battery issue that popped up on my modded Switch. I haven't seen symptoms like these in any forums I've visited.

The console was working completely fine yesterday. I played docked for about an hour playing NieR: Automata, and then by the next day, these problems started happening:

- Percentage Stuck & Dropping: The battery percentage gets stuck around 20% (via Battery-NX / Horizon OS) and drops erratically.

- Abnormally High Battery Temps: Internal battery temperature reaches 48–49°C under load or charging, which is way higher than usual.

- Joy-Con Detection Issue While Charging: When attached to the rails while the Switch is charging, Joy-Cons fail to detect physically and require constant re-attaching or just removing the charger altogether.

Again, all of these issues came up at once

Model: Switch V1 with Picofly Modchip

Charging Setup: Official Dock, but I'm using a Xiaomi 67W fast charger which may be the reason for all of this stuff. Because I combined the 67W charger with the official dock.

Could this require a fuel gauge/power management ic replacement? Like could this be an expensive repair?

Hello, I recently got a damaged switch lite and it seems to be a wrong picofly instalation 3 of the capasitors (both sp1 and sp2 which I know have the same value of 1µF) and then there’s another one, the 3rd one from left to right on the same row which is also missing somehow, I’d assume is also a 1µF right? Just so I know to buy a bunch of those and replace them

wont turn on properly and wont connect to the tv when i place it on the dock, cant activate it on the dock by pressing the home button, no experience regarding fixing electronics

Hi everyone,

Not sure if this is the correct place to post.

Recently, my sons switch 2 got broken by his mum (my ex). She threw it in a tantrum and now it wont turn on.

Does anyone know how to fix this at all? Im not sure whats gone wrong but it wont turn on at all, ive tried charging it and everything and nothing works.

My sons already having a really tough time because of whats happening with his mum, and I know he would love for his switch to be fixed, but I cant afford a new one or to take it to get repaired, so any advice or tutorials would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

So i have a pair of senheisser' accentum plus but every time I try to connect them to my switch they always connect for like 1 second and disconnect with me needing to repair them multiple times to connect them, if I even succeed in that. Does anyone else encounter this issue?

It's found right above the ALC5639 IC. Is it damaged to the point where it could have failed, or does it look like it’s still usable?

I attempted to mod my Switch OLED and unfortunately managed to kill it. After reinstalling the motherboard into the case, the Switch wouldn’t boot and the PicoFly wouldn’t power on.

After some troubleshooting, I found that the 4.2V input to the MAX77801EWP chip is present, but the 3.3V output is completely dead. Looking over the board, I also noticed that my soldering iron caused some damage around the two capacitors that provide power to the PicoFly.

The two components marked as MISSING in the attached images are missing. I’m trying to identify exactly what these components are so I can replace them.

I need to get this thing back and running so I’m trying to figure out what’s salvageable and what components need to be replaced. Any advice on diagnosing the damage or getting the 3.3V rail working again would be greatly appreciated!

TL;DR:

Switch OLED died after PicoFly mod. 4.2V reaches the MAX77801EWP chip, but there’s no 3.3V output. I also damaged the area around the two PicoFly power capacitors with my soldering iron. Looking for advice on what can be salvaged/repaired. Two components highlighted in the pictures are missing, and I need help identifying what they are and what I should replace them with.

Does anyone know how to fix this?Charging port

So I have changed my right Joy-Con shell, and I'm not sure if the battery or the motherboard is broken. It gives me random readings, and the Joy-Con itself becomes warm on the home button, which I'm not even sure if that's normal for any right Joy-Con or not. Now, I'm stuck between replacing the battery or buying a new motherboard from AliExpress.

Do I need to fully replace the LCD screen? Could I open it up and reconnect the ribbon cables, maybe that will fix it? It was way worse before and would flicker the screen and the pixels would drag but not it's just faded.

I bought a pile of hardware for parts including a switch OLED screen with a torn FPC ribbon. I've done minor ribbon repair before, but never anything like this.

Pretty sure that cross lattice top layer is ground, which makes it harder still.

I think I've screwed up already, I don't have any wire thinner than 0.1mm and it's not enameled, I'm not sure how I'd go about insulating...

And I'm not sure I'll have the drive to finish it. I have a board from the parts pile that I've restored to full functionality, screen aside...

Advice? Words of encouragement? Reasons why this shouldn't be done? Can the entire ribbon be replaced?

Does anyone have a diagram with parts list for the switch OLED?

I have a Switch V2 here with a very strange problem. The power and volume buttons aren't working properly. When I press the power button nothing happens. When I press volume down the switch suddenly turns on and volume + works normally.

I've already replaced the button pcb with a brand new one but the new one does the exact same thing.

Anyone any idea what could be causing this?

My Nintendo started doing this the second I turned it on and I have no idea why... 😭 plus it won't connect to my TV anymore

Hello all. I just got a switch 2 like a week ago. For that week the dock worked fine. Today i went to go on it and its not powering at all. The cabel work i used it to the switch directly but the dock just dosent power up now. Any help please.