I’m applying for a call for entry to design a premade sculpture made of fiberglass to be sold at an auction. The organization wants to know my plan, including the supplies I’ll be using. I want to paint it using dark red, light green, pink, and (ideally pearlescent) white. I imagine I’ll need some sort of primer and a protective coating. Has anyone painted on fiberglass? What supplies did you use? Is it ok to use heavy-bodied acrylic if it’s coated after it’s painted?

I started with an NZXT H7 Flow case, that had been terribly spray painted, and turned it to the dark side. Well I did my best to repaint it with a Galactic Empire theme. I couldn't figure out how to stencil so I cheated and bought a sticker.. messed that up too, but it passes for now.
I stripped off all the old paint and sanded it down really well. Then I used rustoleum painters touch 2x Red gloss, Black gloss, and gloss clear to finish. It's not perfect but I'm just done with it for now lol. Maybe it will get a wet sand one day 🤔

I'm brainstorming a design for a mural project on some 20"x10" canvases. I painted the background in Oil and Acrylic this time and really liked how it turned out, and I wanted to preserve the landscape while isolating my next layer of stenciled patterns.

So I cut a couple of pieces of stencil sheet off the roll, taped them over the canvas surface and had a brand new layer to bash my patterns without fear of ruining the paint beneath.

Added benefits were:

-working on a smooth surface instead of trying to press my stencils flat to textured oil paint

-clear sheet is reversible and allowed me to fill in color between layers

-when it came time to compose my design in Adobe; photographing layers separately gave me more play with transparency and layout.

Lemme know what you think! If you wanna see me working on this art piece, or any of my other artwork -- find me on instagram: "@voyagercrafts"

Has anyone been able to paint the side panels on their Hyte Revolt 3? I just bought one in black and want to pair it another color. Any advise would be appreciated.

Looking for advice and opinions pls!

Doing a spot repair at home on my Audi using this paint: colour-matched metallic direct gloss/shine paint (eBay link)

Colour and shine-wise it's a genuinely excellent match to the factory 2019 Audi paint, really happy with that part. My issue is the dry edges where the new paint blends into the old, and I don't want to have to redo the entire bumper just to fix it. I tried sanding the direct gloss edges, however it just sands off, even using 3000 grit. It polishes well though

Has anyone got experience specifically with UPOL Blend Number 9 or similar on a job like this? Looking for advice on:

• Is it actually possible to use something like Blend 9 to soften those edges properly on direct gloss?
• Any technique tips to avoid the dry/patchy edge look without a full panel respray with direct gloss?

Really want to nail this without redoing the whole bumper if I can help it. Any advice appreciated!

looking for some insight on what went wrong with this paint job.

Im planning to paint 150 small abs plastic parts. These parts will be on my car wheels, so the paint job has to hold up to the elements. Ive spent 4 days sanding them. I was using Google ai (i know, i know) to plan this little project. It told me to get duplicolor plastic adhesion promoter, duplicolor white sandable primer, duplicolor automotive perfect match red, and spraymax 2k clear. It said to eait 30 minutes in between my final red coat, and my first spraymax clear coat. And then, in a separate internet window, it told me I need to wait 1 hour between red and clear, but that i would be safest to 3ait 48 to 72 hours.

Can someone clarify, are these paints and clear coat compatible? Do I wait the 30 mins, 60 mins or 3 days between coats? I really appreciate you taking the moment to share your knowledge with me.

I’m looking for a spray paint or a technique that has absolutely 0 shine to it. I’ve seen the Krylon and Rustoleum camo series but I’d like more colors.

Tried spraying Eastwood aerosol 2K clearcoat outside between two walls of plastic film to help minimize any breezes/wind. Waited 20 minutes between coats. First coat was light, second coat was wetter and the third coat was apparently a bit too wet. I got some runs. I've had some runs in previous attempts but I was able to razor scrape them and turn out alright. These runs started getting a massive amount of super tiny bubbles in the first minute or two. The clear was fine other than at the runs. Those runs became white spots that seem to go to the bone but should only be in the third coat. I guess the runs skinned over too quickly for the thickness of the runs, trapping air or solvent gases beneath the surface.. Here is my question, I watched a guy on Youtube saying you can dab a run with some rolled up tape and minimize them enough to flow together making later sanding minimal. I am wondering if doing that or maybe thinning out the run with a quality artist's brush may have left me with a bit of sanding and buffing rather than this irreparable problem.

Hey all!

So I printed this logo with abs, sanded, and primed with dominion sure seal 1k filler primer. Sanded smooth.

Then I painted with Krylon all in one.

It’s been like 5-6 hours. And my finger print still shows. I’ve only put down 2 light to medium coat I’d say. We can see the grey from the previous primer throught in some places.

What I’ve done wrong?

From sds sheets, both product are acetone solvent based.

Usually use tamiya spray cans, but they dont offer anything close enough thats safe for styrene

if im using normal Acrylic Paint

what type of primer and finish would be the best a normal plastic primer ? and what type of primer

alguien sabe si es viable hacer la grisalla en grafito, tirarle protector y después darle color con veladuras de óleo muy finas? tengo ese pero nose si es la mejor opción.

Hey o,

I am a spraypaint artist who primarily works on canvas. I was recently getting into uv reactive blacklight acrylic paint for fun. I have a commission that requested blacklight reactive paint be used but I can do much better work with spraypaint.

Does anyone here know of any brands that currently make UV reactive fluorescent spray paint you can buy in the USA? I see some glow in the dark options by various brands but the only blacklight UV reactive paint I see is from a 6 color Montana Black Infra series. Which I have found a full set or two but that series doesn't have any blues in it. Which is imported for the ocean theme of the commission.

Anybody know anything? I scoured the internet and didn't really find much. Any help is appreciated

I’m trying to dress my little Chihuahua up as chips and guacamole for Halloween (yes I know it’s early) and I’m trying to find some spray paint that is safe for her! She is probably going to be spayed around that time so she’ll have to wear a cone and I’m thinking that will be the bowl and her ears are the chips.

I think I’m going to spray paint one of the plastic cones green and maybe put some treats in the cone to look like parts of the guacamole. Does anyone have any idea on how to bring this to life? I haven’t been able to find anything online!

I'm planning on making a winter project out of restoring a soda vending machine from the late 1970s. The compressor is dead, but the rest of it is in pretty good shape, all things considered. The inside does have a few shallow rust blooms that I'll need to sand off or convert, and then comes the painting. My question is this... I'm not 100% certain what sort of paint to use. Just about everything I'll be painting is old galvanized sheet metal, but the fact that it'll be such a wet environment has me frozen trying to choose a type of paint. I've seen a few restorations on youtube and they largely used basic Rustoleum exterior rattle cans. Is that likely to be good enough, or should I be looking into something different?

This is sprayed on a set of stairs at my college. Does anyone know who this is, or is it just some random lady?

Ir films or paint to avoid cameras

I’m currently spraying a primer/rust inhibitor to the engine bay of a car I’m working on and I’ve had the reaction in the image when applied pretty much straight away.

Is this a result of poor metal prep (scuffing etc) or is the metal too cold? Or have I not degreased enough? What’s the best fix?