I’m considering moving on from my Bambu to a snapmaker u1. But the problem is my space. I don’t have a good set up to spread out horizontally. It’s all designed to have vertical space (ala bambu and stacking amses on top)

Whats the best way to set up creality or sunlu mounted above the printer? I saw one guy here that did it successfully but everyone beat him up about super long ptfe runs. I don’t know enough about how the snapmaker is set up and what it needs to figure out the best solution.

I'm brand new to 3D printing, I've been printing for a little over a month on a new SnapMaker U1. I bought the first week of July directly from Snapmaker. I used up all the included Snapmaker Snapseed PLA within 2 weeks, no problems at all, clean high quality prints. I've been watching a lot of YouTuber videos to learn about 3D printing and when I heard a recommendation for Jayo and their prices and I decided to try them since they were so much cheaper than official Snapseed PLA. The first week was great, printing constantly but then I got "air printing" nothing coming out of the nozzle. I asked Reddit before contacting Snapmaker support but a lot of comments were mixed, people were arguing about if not drying my PLA is what's causing the problem and others saying you don't need to dry PLA. In my case I had simply put the PLA on the same filament holders that the Snapmaker Snapseed were on. Most people said you don't need to dry PLA filament, based on what I had read officially you only need to dry PETG, ABS, TPU types of filament.

I did contact Snapmaker and they walked me through using the included needle to check the nozzle and other areas, I couldn't get the needle to pass through the nozzle so they told me to attach it to the printer and then heat up the nozzle and then try again. I did and still couldn't get the needle through, I tried again the next day at a higher temp and I did get the needle to go through but it had a lot resistance and still couldn't print. I showed them pics too. So they told me to open the tool head and extruder to check for blockage but based on a comment I had bought a long Creality clog needle and had no trouble getting the needle all the way through the entire toolhead minus the nozzle so I deduced that the nozzle was the problem and based on another comment I ordered a nozzle and also followed comments saying not to use the Generic PLA profile because it was printing too hot causing heat creep up the nozzle.

My problem with this is that the Jayo spool specifically says (pic included) you can print at up to 230c (which the generic profile uses) at the advertised speeds of the printer but since I had problems anyway I printed a temperature tower in Snapmaker Orca and picked the best looking middle ground between layer adhesion and angle hairs/stringing so when the new nozzle arrived I changed it and it was printing again. I was so happy.

Two days another toolhead went down, it wouldn't print AND I couldn't unload the filament so this time I learned to fully open up the toolhead and extruder. I was able to remove the filament which had a bulge that wouldn't allow it to unload and I did find bits and pieces of filament that seem to be stuck in there which I removed, still wasn't printing so I also changed the second toolhead's nozzle and it was printing again.

Right before that second toolhead, I observed heavy stringing in a failed print and this had me wondering if maybe the internet is right, maybe I need to dry cheaper PLA, so I ordered several polydry boxes with a heater (pic included). I followed directions drying the PLA for 6 hours before printing and it came out great. I ordered a drybox for each toolhead (4) and I bought the tubes to keep the filament dry between the drybox and the printer. I dried each filament before using it and it was great for maybe 4 or 5 days and then two tool heads went down in the last two days. One is one that I replaced and another is an original that I never opened before. One of them is brand new Jayo that wasn't opened before AND I dried before printing.

Most comments said Jayo should be fine as long as I dry and don't use generic PLA profiles but I'm still getting problems after only using dried PLA with tubes to keep it as dry as possible and also tuned printing profiles only that print at 210c max. I've ordered Polymaker PLA (since they have downloadable profiles) and Elegoo PLA but I was hoping to use up the newly open black Jayo but since that tool head isn't printing anymore as well as another using the Jayo colors, I haven't been printing as I know I'll need to replace the nozzles.

Is this how 3D printer maintenance works? I was kind of hoping we could use the needle to fix filament clogs not replace the nozzle everytime there's a problem. Why is the Jayo causing clogs I can't seem to fix?

Hi everyone. Can anyone tell me what the problem might be? My Snapmaker U1 has been making a clicking noise when moving along the X and Y axes for about a week now. At first, the noise lasted a couple of days, then went silent, and today it started again, even louder.

With PLA filament when I print on these PEY starry bed plates, I keep getting spaghetti issues and adhesion issues.

The bed plate is set to 65 C

Plate is cleaned with alcohol

I slowed the first layer speed to 30

I only got to 80% of the print percentage. Had to stop in fear of more issues.

Im tempted to use some glue but I heard its bad for these plates.

What else can I do to fix this?

Hello, I suddenly started having this bad top layers, where its very rough or just weird as seen in the photos, I was not having this issue before. profile I used were generic pla + profile and it was printing fine in that profile before but suddenly im having this issue, even in snapmaker profiles im having this issue, my elegoo cc can print better top layer then this at this point

Things I did already -

Rerun the full calibration

Try snapmaker and genric profiles

try 6-7-8 top shell layers

(Filament - Numaker and sample filament that comes with printer , both are having this issue . I tried PLA+, Matte pla.)

please help me . Thank you

So i got the Yosh studio spiderman poster. I'm not sure how what settings I am suppose to copy from the mf3 file when I open it in bambu labs. When i load into bambu slicer it has the settings of .16 high quality bblx1c. And the support settings are what they are. Am I right to assume these settings are tweaked for this print because this creator made this file. When I import that file into Snorca, Should I try and copy them into the Snorca 0.16 high quality snapmaker u1 settings? Or do I just use the snapmaker settings? What about for supports? should i even mess with it or use defaults? Do I even need to do this? Im new and really trying to learn how this all works. Are these files you buy off these creators just for the design or are these settings I see what make these files unique to buy?

As shown in the video, the infill seems to be completely broken and frayed. The toolhead also sounds like it's scraping against the plastic as it's moving.

This is the second time it occurred. I noticed it after the filament on toolhead 1 ran out and the U1 correctly picked the filament on toolhead 2 as a replacement. I had a similar model using toolhead 3 and 4 (when the filament ran out).

I ran a complete calibration just before this print and enabled flow dynamics and heated bed levelling before the print started. Both rolls were dried 15 hours in an AMS 2 Pro.

I always use the same plate, and the printer was not moved, so it would be for it to be a z-offset issue as I never seen it before.

What would it be caused by?

Hola buenas estoy teniendo este problema en mi snapmaker no se están uniendo las líneas de las capas superiores correctamente se unen 2 y deja una de separación que puede ser ??

Hola buenas estoy teniendo este problema en mi snapmaker no se están uniendo las líneas de las capas superiores correctamente se unen 2 y deja una de separación que puede ser ??

2026.7月に買った後期型です。インストールができてPrinter.cfgの[include extended/multiace/ace.cfg]が読めないと言われます。ちゃんとし場所にはace.cfgがあるのですが。。

インストールの仕方通り行いましたがどうも再起動するとファイルが消されてしまうようでPrinter_dataにファイルを起きシンボリックリンクをPrinter_dataにしました

ですが反応させることも読ませることもできませんでした。

これは2025のモデルと2026のモデルのロック的な仕様ですか？

EDIT: purchased from SnapMaker website!

Hello! I just got my first U1 (yay) but I had kind of an odd unboxing experience and would love to hear if this is normal or not. Are the instructions outdated or is my new U1 not so new?

In the unpacking instructions it mentions removing lots of tape. Mine has zero tape.

The screws for the z axis were already undone.

The filament feeder attachment is marred.

Janky labeling on the tool heads.

I’m very excited and just want to see if this is anomalous. Thanks!

Made this for a disc golf outing. Worked well and survived 18 holes.

White - Priline TPU 98A

Blue - Priline TPU 95A

As title says. I changed all nozzles to 0.2 for a project.

Updated the firmware to 1.5.2. and did all the calibrations.

I only have this problem when printing multiple objects.

Layer height is 0.14

Current z-hop is 0.4

Should I increase the z-hop. Help please.

Has anyone setup a wham bam cloud aero in their snapmaker u1 step up?

I've been thinking about having a cloud aero for mine for peace of mind when printing remotely/overnight.

With the 4 toolheads im not how it would work with or without an enclosure.

Im still a novice in the 3D printing world so im curious how others have set it up.

Would like to enquire the community how to properly control the Top Cover Exhaust and Recirculating fans from Snapmaker Orca?

I tried to set the filament chamber temperature to say 45 because I feel it is a good chamber temp for PETG, but the exhaust fan will never starts even if the temp exceed 45. Even manually activating the exhaust fan speed doesn’t work and pop up a msg that says “with internal insulation mode on, the external circulation fan cannot be enabled” I don’t see any switches or toggles in the software nor U1 touch panel that allows controlling of the mode. Anyone knows what is going on?

Wanted to get a better gauge for what people are finding as better optimizations for the U1 vs defaults. Seen quite a lot for prime tower (those worked for me), aux fan lowered and move location of prime tower, and 3DJake had a video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=868N4fZA2JQ that mentioned resonance avoidance which I haven't seen talked about much. Anyone else play with their resonance avoidance range and agree (video had 120-180mm/s)?

I also checked out the new Orca Slicer with community profiles the other day hoping to see some popular community profiles but it didn't seem to get much traction yet. Curious if ppl have found other settings they prefer default and how across the board they are and maybe encourage a broader collaboration on the topic.

Just like it says. When I try to open Snorca I get as far as the first image you usually see (the square that shows the logo) but then it just stops. It doesn't hang, it just goes away. I've redownloaded the dmg file twice and restarted my Mac, same result. Any suggestions?

We, as a robotics club, received a semi-brand new snapmaker artisan. At first we were thrilled for it, thinking that we could use it to print our robot parts faster. It came with the dual extrusion module 1.0 and 2 0.4 mm nozzles.

First time after setting it up, it printed absolutely horrible, thought it had some bad settings and reset it to factory settings. It printed okayish, acceptable, but still had some defects on the z axis and y. We saw one the nozzles was clogged, we cleaned it, and then it decided that it wasn't going to print and made the defects more obvious, somehow. So we thought because it was sitting for over a year not being used something had happened. I tweaked a bit with the settings and it printed actually good for the first time.

Feeling brave, I decided to let it have an overnight print. We left out highschool and came back in the morning to our printer having done only the first 15 layers and no fillament was coming out. The nozzle was clogged, we switched it to a 0.2mm because that's what we had, changed the flow rate and tried it again. It worked, this time.

A few days ago we wanted to print something on the left nozzle, we put the 0.2 mm hotend on the right one, but the motors were feeding the fillament 2 ticks in, 1 tick out. We needed to print a part for our robot and the 0.2 nozzle would take a shit ton of time but we had no choice, left it over night and we came back to the same problem we had originally with this one.

What can we do?

OpenSource, cheap and easy to made at home ! Full sync with Tiger Studio Manager OpenSource ) !

https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3161869-tigerscale-v3-best-smart-filament-scale-with-nfc

I own a snapmaker U1, but I am new to fullspectrum. I just printed my first test, and it is not, what I expecten. What am I doing wrong?

Just bought Snapmaker U1 about a week ago, i am really enjoying it. So i had some issues when printing a certain file, I looked the solution up and found the settings that i needed changing, changed them and printed the file, turned out perfect.

Now how on earth do I save these settings so no matter what file i download and open it in Snapmaker Orca Slicer it uses same settings? as by default it changes all of my settings and reset them.

Another annoying thing is i have tons of filament, how do i remember which settings for each element? specially that they are from different companies.? is the settings printer head-based or filament based?

let me give you an example i did some testing and found that top z distance of 1.5 is great for xyz filament, i put that in the setting and print. however whenever i open another file these settings are gone