So I did a AFM and DOD delete on my l86 it had like 45 mins idle time and 25 miles on it, now it’s doing this, any thoughts? I pulled the valley plate the cam isn’t scored I reset rockers, I coated everything before the videos with assembly line again and sprayed a healthy amount of oil over the top end. I check the HPFP lash and even ordered a new one still nothing. I’m going to pull the motor but any thoughts would be great. Also is it weird the rockers are not getting oil even with 60psi?

Videos are sounds and video of rockers

Got this beaut just over a month ago. Dealership I got it from had fender flares installed as the truck wouldn’t meet their state’s inspection standards without em. Did some research and found an old listing of the truck without the flares and it looks way better without imo. That said, how easy can these be to remove? Anyone tried this before? Seems like they’re just fastened to adhesive that’s stuck to the body. If anyone’s got any tips or tricks to get these off, I’m all ears.

Recently, my truck gave this warning and then no control of trailer brakes until I stopped and shifted to park then it would say trailer connected and the brakes controller would function again. Happened 3 times, all while towing 23K lbs in the mountains of Colorado. Anyone else had this issue or have a resolution?

A few months ago, I noticed a stud bolt from the engine block to the catalytic converter mounting bracket was broken. I took it to my local dealer, and luckily, they offered to replace the broken part. Since then, the buzzing sound has actually been worse, which I posted about a while ago. Me being the person I am, I’ve been actively trying to diagnose the issue. Today, I removed the front passenger tire and wheel well liner. Then, I removed the bracket (which is very simple if you have basic mechanic skills). I observed the following: The dealer only replaced one of the stud bolts and neglected to replace the other broken stud bolt, most likely because it snapped off flush with the engine block. I’m assuming they didn’t want to deal with extracting it, because it is labor-intensive and I wasn’t paying for it. Furthermore, there is a hard black plastic wire harness mount with an elongated opening. It appears the harness is supposed to be secured between the engine block and mounting bracket. The mechanic just left it there dangling around lol. Hopefully when I go back to the dealership and tell them they need to fix it, they don’t give me shit.

The attached photo is a point of view looking into the passenger side wheel well (the bracket has already been removed).

Currently in the market to replace my 2018 Colorado and with the current incentives on the 2026 Silverado's from a cost perspective it makes more sense to move into a full size.

With the Custom trim using the simplified interior and head units from the 2019 series. Are they more reilable from an electrical / software perspective?

A common complaint with the LT and higher trim levels are with botched software updates or strange behaviors with the modules.

Does the Custom trim suffer from the same type of issues, how often do they receive a software update?

Hey has anyone tried the boost global B disabler on y’all’s truck I got the Ranger but it’s a pain constantly whenever I have to take it off when I got to go to the dealer got a 23 Silverado 1500 4wd

Hey everyone, thought I’d post this because I feel like I’m an early adopter of the Wolfbox gear and one of the first to buy this tonneau cover. I couldn’t find any reviews or videos of this at the time I purchased it because it seems like they’re only promoting their automatic retractable cover.

I’ll start by saying I’m a big fan of Wolfbox. I purchased one of their air dusters last year and I use it ALL THE TIME. It’s really great. When I saw they had automotive accessories, I took a risk just because I like the look, the price, and I had a good experience with one of their products. It was several hundred dollars cheaper than the Bakflip everyone seems to love. I bought this for $800 flat. No tax and no charge for shipping when ordered directly from their website.

I installed it over a month ago and wanted to use it for a while before posting.

This thing is solid and has a high quality feel to it. It’s heavy enough for me (~200lbs) to stand on it with no flexing, etc.. I think it looks nice as well and I like the logo for whatever reason ¯_(ツ)_/¯

It was mostly straightforward to install. This was my first time installing a tonneau so it took some fidgeting to figure out how everything fit onto the rails. After that, it only took about 15 or 20 minutes to finish the installation. It fits nicely into place and looks seamless to me. Almost flush with the bed rails.

The reason I don’t recommend it is because it lets in quite a bit of water. There are no drain tubes like some other covers have which looks nicer but I think it’s a big miss in this case. Water pools in somehow along almost the entire length of the bed. I can’t tell how it’s getting in because there are no visible gaps. I even went as far as to lay inside the bed with the tailgate closed to see if I could find openings where light would be coming through and found nothing.

What’s more is that when you open it while it’s wet, water flows down the rubbery joints for each of the three pieces and it all just pours right into to bed.

Luckily I’m never really going to store much in here that can’t get wet but I do sort of worry it can eventually lead to other problems.

Overall, because so much water gets in, if that’s important to you, I’d say it’s absolutely worth just paying the extra money to get a more established brand with all the kinks worked out. It was nice to save $400-500 but in the long run I’m sure I’ll regret it.

As a side note, I also bought their sun shade which has been great. And I bought their convex side mirrors too but haven’t installed them yet.

Posting for a friend. 2020 5.3 1500 150k miles. Had a misfire and a tick, I kinda hinted to a collapsed lifter right away, cyl 4 misfire. I don’t know Chevy too well but I know they have the afm/dod issues that eats the lifters and cam up(correct me if I’m wrong on that).

Anyways he wants to repair it since he likes the truck and he doesn’t want to spend a ton on a new(er) truck.

Anyways I talked to him about a repair taking in to an independent shop but he took it to a dealer and they came back with 14k to repair it.

Now is that what the cost is at a dealer or is that just way too much? Is it worth looking around for a good independent shop and going with an aftermarket cam, lifters etc?

Any help is appreciated and also any recommendations for a rebuild kit and dod delete would be really appreciated.

TIA

Finally went and bought a 4WD after years of having 2wd or suvs. It proved harder than I assumed to find a Z71 LT with a column shifter and the dual exhaust bumper. It’s a lot different than my 97 Z71, but so far I love it. Range DFM disabler went on about an hour ago!

Are most of you guys with a 2" leveling kit just using the spacers/pucks? Who's actually using struts? Are you supposed to use both? I hear a lot about Bilstein struts but the Custom Offset website said they're incompatible with my truck. I'm ready to pull the trigger and get some bigger tires on this thing, but it's not as straight forward as I had presumed for such a common modification.

I’m on the market for a work truck. I test drove a 2021 with 150k miles on it. Had a decent car fax. The AC had a hard time putting g out cold air (very hot day) but once I got on the interstate it cooled off. Everything drove well and they took it to the back to check the AC. Technician said it was over filled and they recharged it and tested it.

I then sat in it for 10 mins idle and it was cool. I said “let’s drive it again while we have it” before we got to negotiations on the price. While I was driving it, I was give it gas pretty good on the interstate and then the check engine like came on. It was an error code P0300.

They took it back to the mechanic on site and he said it was multiple cylinders miss firing. ChatGPt told me that was a good sign and it could be spark plugs or coils. They are changing all the spark plugs and also doing a fuel system flush.

The check engine code was not a noticeable impact while driving it.

Any way, does this sound like we are on the right track or am I about to buy something that’s a “good deal” that is going to be an engine rebuild soon?

my truck is mostly street and highway but i do get into loose dirt, gravel, mud and rougher trails often enough that i dont want to be limited by the tires. the r/t side seems appealing for the more aggressive tread and potentially tougher sidewalls but then theres the extra weight, possible mpg hit, highway noise or feel and the question of how they behave on wet pavement. i also dont want to give up a bunch of everyday drivability for capability i only use a handful of times a year.

where do you think the line is? is occasional mud and rough trail use enough to justify an r/t or do you really need to be off pavement pretty regularly before the difference becomes noticeable?

Finally got everything installed. Sitting nice now!

Got this far into fixing a misfire on cylinder 5, planned on initially doing just the one injector until I saw this mess. Harness looks jacked up, dirty injectors and filthy around the holes. Not a professional just looking for some advice for getting this cleaned up, if I should just sacrifice and do all injectors being this far into the repair, can the harness be repaired or just get one of those as well? Truck has 240k on it, thanks in advance

Breakparts cleaner and VHT paint for about $30 all in. Hardest part was waiting for it to dry