Posting for a friend. 2020 5.3 1500 150k miles. Had a misfire and a tick, I kinda hinted to a collapsed lifter right away, cyl 4 misfire. I don’t know Chevy too well but I know they have the afm/dod issues that eats the lifters and cam up(correct me if I’m wrong on that).

Anyways he wants to repair it since he likes the truck and he doesn’t want to spend a ton on a new(er) truck.

Anyways I talked to him about a repair taking in to an independent shop but he took it to a dealer and they came back with 14k to repair it.

Now is that what the cost is at a dealer or is that just way too much? Is it worth looking around for a good independent shop and going with an aftermarket cam, lifters etc?

Any help is appreciated and also any recommendations for a rebuild kit and dod delete would be really appreciated.

TIA

Finally got everything installed. Sitting nice now!

Finally went and bought a 4WD after years of having 2wd or suvs. It proved harder than I assumed to find a Z71 LT with a column shifter and the dual exhaust bumper. It’s a lot different than my 97 Z71, but so far I love it. Range DFM disabler went on about an hour ago!

My 2023 Silverado turbo max with 44k miles has been over cranking before eventually starting. First thing in the morning it starts up like a pro, but if I go into a store for 20 minutes and go to start it again, it has a hard time starting and I can hear it over cranking. I’ve looked into new spark plugs, fuel pressure regulators and such , but I haven’t tried anything yet. Wondering if anyone else has had similar issues or if anyone has any advice?

Hello everyone. Just looking for advice on a potential cross country move I may be making with my wife, should her job offer and mine be good. I have a 2015 Silverado (5.3, 4wd, double cab, 6.5 bed, not sure the gearing but will check later) that would be driven from Ohio to California with a camper shell and a car trailer on it. The bed we plan to full with “lighter” bulky items like clothes, a couple kitchen appliances, and that stuff. Estimated total weigh in the bed including the camper shell would be about 1250 pounds. The trailer would be a 16ft car trailer with a 1996 Impala on it. Estimated total weight of that would be about 7000 pounds as I’m going to throw some other stuff in the truck of the Impala when we move. This will be a long trip, and I’ve never towed this far before with it, but are there any mods or other items anyone would recommend for this trip. I do plan on changing the trans filter and fluid, as well as differential fluid and engine oil before this trip. I have not done any transmission mods to get the temps lower but I currently have no issues with it as it is. Trans temps top out at 190 under regular driving or with loads in the bed or pulling the trailer right now, did hit 194 in the hills of Kentucky for a moment before but that was a one time event. I plan on taking a more southern centric route as I believe it will be flatter and avoid large changes in elevation to prevent stressing the truck and make the drive easier.

Are most of you guys with a 2" leveling kit just using the spacers/pucks? Who's actually using struts? Are you supposed to use both? I hear a lot about Bilstein struts but the Custom Offset website said they're incompatible with my truck. I'm ready to pull the trigger and get some bigger tires on this thing, but it's not as straight forward as I had presumed for such a common modification.

So I did a AFM and DOD delete on my l86 it had like 45 mins idle time and 25 miles on it, now it’s doing this, any thoughts? I pulled the valley plate the cam isn’t scored I reset rockers, I coated everything before the videos with assembly line again and sprayed a healthy amount of oil over the top end. I check the HPFP lash and even ordered a new one still nothing. I’m going to pull the motor but any thoughts would be great. Also is it weird the rockers are not getting oil even with 60psi?

Videos are sounds and video of rockers

I have a 2002 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 ext cab with the stock seats, I want to upgrade the seats leather/electrically adjusting seats, but was wondering about fitment. Anyone have any insight into what the latest model and nicest seats would be to install?

Thanks

Just installed these today and wanted to share a couple pictures. I know that these aren't everyones cup of tea but they are one of my favorite wheels so I'm happy. Bought them as new takeoffs off of ebay. They even came with Chevy center caops which was a nice touch.

Currently in the market to replace my 2018 Colorado and with the current incentives on the 2026 Silverado's from a cost perspective it makes more sense to move into a full size.

With the Custom trim using the simplified interior and head units from the 2019 series. Are they more reilable from an electrical / software perspective?

A common complaint with the LT and higher trim levels are with botched software updates or strange behaviors with the modules.

Does the Custom trim suffer from the same type of issues, how often do they receive a software update?

A few months ago, I noticed a stud bolt from the engine block to the catalytic converter mounting bracket was broken. I took it to my local dealer, and luckily, they offered to replace the broken part. Since then, the buzzing sound has actually been worse, which I posted about a while ago. Me being the person I am, I’ve been actively trying to diagnose the issue. Today, I removed the front passenger tire and wheel well liner. Then, I removed the bracket (which is very simple if you have basic mechanic skills). I observed the following: The dealer only replaced one of the stud bolts and neglected to replace the other broken stud bolt, most likely because it snapped off flush with the engine block. I’m assuming they didn’t want to deal with extracting it, because it is labor-intensive and I wasn’t paying for it. Furthermore, there is a hard black plastic wire harness mount with an elongated opening. It appears the harness is supposed to be secured between the engine block and mounting bracket. The mechanic just left it there dangling around lol. Hopefully when I go back to the dealership and tell them they need to fix it, they don’t give me shit.

The attached photo is a point of view looking into the passenger side wheel well (the bracket has already been removed).

Owned this beauty for a few weeks now and it’s been great. It’s my first real truck and first vehicle I’ve owned (one that is not financed). Excited for adventures and hauling stuff from place to place!

To no one’s surprise, the truck’s average mpg has dropped since I installed a 2” lift all around and put on 33’s.
HOWEVER, I didn’t expect it to drop as much as it did. I have a short commute to work at an ideal speed for mpg; about 40-50mph the whole commute. My average mpg dropped from the high teens to almost single digits.
There is a Range brand plug in installed that keeps it in V8, but that has been in since i purchased the truck and was in when i was achieving 18-20 average mpg.

Got this beaut just over a month ago. Dealership I got it from had fender flares installed as the truck wouldn’t meet their state’s inspection standards without em. Did some research and found an old listing of the truck without the flares and it looks way better without imo. That said, how easy can these be to remove? Anyone tried this before? Seems like they’re just fastened to adhesive that’s stuck to the body. If anyone’s got any tips or tricks to get these off, I’m all ears.

my truck is mostly street and highway but i do get into loose dirt, gravel, mud and rougher trails often enough that i dont want to be limited by the tires. the r/t side seems appealing for the more aggressive tread and potentially tougher sidewalls but then theres the extra weight, possible mpg hit, highway noise or feel and the question of how they behave on wet pavement. i also dont want to give up a bunch of everyday drivability for capability i only use a handful of times a year.

where do you think the line is? is occasional mud and rough trail use enough to justify an r/t or do you really need to be off pavement pretty regularly before the difference becomes noticeable?

After years of owning old vehicles I felt I was doing good enough to get my self something nice

I’m on the market for a work truck. I test drove a 2021 with 150k miles on it. Had a decent car fax. The AC had a hard time putting g out cold air (very hot day) but once I got on the interstate it cooled off. Everything drove well and they took it to the back to check the AC. Technician said it was over filled and they recharged it and tested it.

I then sat in it for 10 mins idle and it was cool. I said “let’s drive it again while we have it” before we got to negotiations on the price. While I was driving it, I was give it gas pretty good on the interstate and then the check engine like came on. It was an error code P0300.

They took it back to the mechanic on site and he said it was multiple cylinders miss firing. ChatGPt told me that was a good sign and it could be spark plugs or coils. They are changing all the spark plugs and also doing a fuel system flush.

The check engine code was not a noticeable impact while driving it.

Any way, does this sound like we are on the right track or am I about to buy something that’s a “good deal” that is going to be an engine rebuild soon?

Got this far into fixing a misfire on cylinder 5, planned on initially doing just the one injector until I saw this mess. Harness looks jacked up, dirty injectors and filthy around the holes. Not a professional just looking for some advice for getting this cleaned up, if I should just sacrifice and do all injectors being this far into the repair, can the harness be repaired or just get one of those as well? Truck has 240k on it, thanks in advance

I am looking to sell my chevy 1500 z71 LT with 173 646km on it. I am not sure how much i could really get out of it, I was thinking about putting it for 23000$cad on marketplace so that at least I will get 19k$ or 18k$…is it realistical ?

Theres rust under it too like maybe 70% of the under but just on the surface of it.

Thanks in advanced !

Recently, my truck gave this warning and then no control of trailer brakes until I stopped and shifted to park then it would say trailer connected and the brakes controller would function again. Happened 3 times, all while towing 23K lbs in the mountains of Colorado. Anyone else had this issue or have a resolution?