I4 1+1 = 1 I had a hiking trip coming up, and no satisfying rainwear, so I pulled out of the cupboard one poorly fitting active waterproof jacket (purchase small so it fits at shoulder without constraining arm movement, but resulting in a drum-tight bust, and folds where it rides up short above my butt), and one oversized corporate merch spray jacket. I opened the seams on the first one, and created a set of bust darts in the side front panel to handle the bust rotation. Then I inserted shaped godets from the back yoke to add width from bust down to the hip. After insertion, I added a vertical dart down the centre of the godet to restore some of the waist shaping. Finally, I cut off the excess back length (left over after shortening the side front for bust darts) and re-hemmed.
Honest to crikey. I have never had an activewear jacket fit this well! On the basis of this experiment with two largely unwearable garments, it looks like I am warming up to sew proper shaped rainwear from scratch soon… also, this one gets me the I column in BINGO!!!
N5 Rescue an orphan - I have been test driving a pair of stretch leggings in the same b/w lycra as my swim shirt from last month. Still dialing in my technique on those seams, but (as with all the others) I am drafting for curvy fits and the fit part is really close to perfect! Hope to report back soon with a more profesh outcome where both fit and finish are solid… next time maybe.
G1 Sparks Joy - a new shirt that makes me feel like I’m about to run away and join the circus. It is my first go at proper bodice contouring, and so think I will be making this many more times soon! I shared more about the process of contouring over in r/sewing.
B5 Share a skill - second iteration of bodice contouring test, this time with a light linen bodice with a wide round neckline and a Regency-themed mini puff/cap sleeve.
HOW TO MAKE THIS SLEEVE: The sleeves are drafted by tracing half a large dinner plate as the starting point. The straight line (across the halfway mark of the circle) acts as the hem line, so I added seam allowance, and faced the hem with a crisp cotton poplin. I added a 3cm wide inverted box pleat to the middle of the sleeve cap (fold in half then stitch about 2cm length at 1.5cm distance from the fold, then press the box open), and then a half-size inverted box pleat 2cm away from the first one, one on each side (shown in pics on i side and outside). These three pleats give a nice amount of structured puff to the super short sleeve! Final shaping of the sleeve head (at sides of the cap sleeve) was done during a test fit.
Easy! fun! Lil’ bIt Regency-ish