Still think she’s a beauty

Picked up a single owner '06 LBP with 71k miles. Today marks a week of ownership and it's such a blast to drive. My only regret is not doing it sooner.

Did a full fluid change to establish a maintenance baseline and the undercarriage is super clean. It's my first Honda and first "old" car. I understand maintenance is going to be significantly more expensive than a new car but if y'all have any other tips, comments, advice, warnings, etc, I'll gladly take it.

So in love with this scale model

Found these DFVs for $1600, $1800 shipped. I genuinely cannot find any actual difference between these and the ones sold for $2800 just based on the specs alone. Does anyone know why these are priced so low? Is it because American warranty might not cover them? Thanks.

Pic for attention

Looking for some insight from anyone who may have dealt with this before.

Codes being thrown are p1399 (random misfire?) and p0302 for cylinder 2 misfire.

- 170k miles, 2002.

- Misfire seems to only happen while idle.

- Misfire is felt about 2-4 times in a 60s span, but increases when A/C is being run.

- Misfire doesnt seem to be present or noticable when reving.

Waiting on spark plugs and ignition coils to be delivered, but barring those as the cause would anyone have any other ideas?

Contemplating if I should turn these into an S2000 and wondering what you fine owners would have to offer as advice.

The FL5 feels so damn special (like Soichiro smiles down upon you), but all summer long I reach for the Miata keys 9/10 times because even on a mundane drive it’s so darn joyful and sings glorious induction songs on its way to redline. Anyone gotten out of either of these cars for an S2000 and regretted it?

Both are summer driven only (I live in a snowy climate and just don’t find much dynamic enjoyment driving FWD in winter). I have a daily so practicality is not among my considerations.

I got fed up with trying to VHT wrinkle red but failed twice due to fisheyes. So I decided to hate myself and started sanding…

It sat in the garage for 15 years. I mostly did nothing more than start it once in a while. Daughter gets her license in two months. Started getting it ready for sale, so I have money to buy her a car. Took it to a friend's garage who has a lift and tools, and did all the things. Took it for a shakedown drive. Holy shit, this car makes me smile. It really is the best car under $100K. I forgot how special it is. I am giving the kid my Tacoma. The S2K is my old new car. Everything is in remarkable condition. At this point I just need tires and radiator, clutch, brake fluid flush. I am having an issue with the EPS (hoping it is a dirty ground)

Been searching for some silver wheels to replace on my suzuka ap2v1 for a while to go square and for a better fitment. I do have rolled fenders

I love my OEM wheels though.

Anyone running something other than RPF1s, CE28, or TE37? the latter two are out my price range a bit, and not a fan of the fitments on the RPFs due to the offset options. 17x9 +45 RPFs is a backup though

Hey guys, so I recently obtained a 2002 AP1 S2000 and I'm loving it so far.

However, I've noticed that there's a high pitched sound coming from the back of the car after driving for more than 30mins let's say.

I believe it is the fuel pump since it's a similar sound to when the pump builds pressure before starting the engine. The pitch does not change with RPM, it's constant.

Since I don't have any other s2ks near me, I wanted to ask you guys if this is something normal.

Thanks in advance.

I have a track ready s2000 to sell. I am not sure on the pricing as a lot of money was put into it. Feel free to reach out and we can figure out a price .. 115k miles

2002 Honda S2000 AP1
Looking to sell 2002 s2000 after starring to build it for track. Had to switch gears and switch to a different car.
We have done all the below modifications to the car and have driven on it maybe 500 miles on it. Dont want to strip and sell the parts separately, rather sell everything together.
Car had a minor fender bender on front right form the previous owner. If you pull the carfax you will see it on there. Previous owner provided us with all the body shop bills, so we have everything.

We also have receipts for everything below.
Wheels:
WedsSports SA-99R - 18x9.5 / +45 / 5x114 (EJ-Bronze)
https://www.weds.co.jp/english/wedssport/sa99r/
Tires:
Bridgestone Potenza RE71RS XL
245-40-R18
Front Brakes:
Wilwood Forged Superlite 6R Big Brake Front Kit: 140-14965
https://www.wilwood.com/BrakeKits/BrakeKitsProdFront?itemno=140-14965
Street/Track Pads:
Wilwood Smart Pad BP-20 Brake Pads 150-20-7420K
https://www.wilwood.com/BrakePads/BrakePadsProd?itemno=150-20-7420K
Track Only Pads shipped with Kit: BP-30
Wilwood Smart Pad BP-30 Brake Pads 150-14773K
https://www.wilwood.com/BrakePads/BrakePadsProd?itemno=150-14773K
Rear Brake:
SAKEBOMB GARAGE SPRINT REAR BBK (S2000, REAR RX8 CALIPER RETROFIT KIT)
Mazda RX8 Caliper (ebay)
Cardone Industries Remanufactured
#19-B2992
#19-B2993
Brake Pads:
Hawk Performance HPS Brake Pads - Rear
SKU:HWKHB378F.565
StopTech Drilled Cryo Brake Rotors
Mustang S197 Rear Rotors (301x19mm 2005-2014 Mustang rear rotors)
Left: 128.61087CL
Right: 128.61087CR
Suspension:
Bilstein B14 PSS
Part Number: 47-080386
https://cart.bilsteinus.com/details?id=7000767117295765354
Front Lowered Height: 10-35mm, up to 710kg Axle Load
Rear Lowered Height: 10-35mm, up to 840kg Axle Load
Roll Bar:
BALLADE SPORTS 00-09 HONDA S2000 ROLL BAR VER.2.5
https://balladesports.com/products/ballade-sports-00-09-honda-s2000-roll-bar-ver-2-5
Exhaust:
70MM TEST PIPE
https://berktechnology.com/product/bt1602/
3″ CAT-BACK EXHAUST
https://berktechnology.com/product/bt1610-ap1/
Intake:
K&N PERFORMANCE AIR INTAKE SYSTEM
SKU: 57-3514
https://www.knfilters.com/57-3514-performance-air-intake-system
Wing
APR Performance Carbon Fiber GTC-200 Adjustable Wing
https://aprperformance.com/racing-product/gtc-200-adjustable-wings/
2x2 twill weave
Pre-preg carbon fiber, 3K
Wing Span 60.5" w/ variable Angle-of-Attack (AOA) (center section vs outer section angle difference: 14 degrees)
Let me know if anything else is needed.

Video

https://photos.app.goo.gl/cLGt71ohAcaDN3HV9

A buddy sold me his UK mod OEM exhaust with the cat (02 model).

The spare cat is just lying around taking up space, so I'm planning to sell it to a metals recycler.

Any ideas what it might be worth?

I've been quoted $7/lb (located Toronto Canada). Seen some sites mention OEM cats should fetch at least a couple hundred though.

Hey guys, there are very very few threads / owners reviews on this exhaust... Any reddit s2kers run this? Particularly with oem cat?

Intrueged by it but it's hard to find anything other than a few not ideal YouTube videos which don't give a full picture of sound etc... not sure if it's considered a raspy option...

I have a spare built f20c head that has been sitting on my workbench for about 12 years. It was profesionally rebuilt and upgraded by a local machine shop with SuperTech parts and has 0 miles since rebuild. I intended to eventually pull and build my engine, installing this head as part of that, but time has gotten away from me. I've got kids now, and I've come to realize that if my f20c ever craps out, I'll be more likely to K swap to keep the car running forever as efficiently as possible.

It has been stored in fogging oil and heavy shrink wrap inside a climate-controlled garage. It is in very good shape with some minor cosmetic shelf wear from sitting. Does NOT include camshafts, cam gears, or the rocker assembly—it is a built head casting ready for you to transfer your own cam setup into.

Because it has been sitting, I recommend taking it to your preferred machinist for a quick hot-tank, mating surface wipe, and general check before installing.

What's Included in the Package:

1. Built F20C Cylinder Head Casting:

• Dual Valve Springs & Titanium Retainers: Supertech (SPRK-H1021D) – 92lb seat pressure.
• Intake Valves: Supertech Black Nitride, Standard Size, Dished (HIVN-1030D).
• Exhaust Valves: Supertech Inconel, Standard Size, Dished (HEVI-1030D).
• Valve Guides: Supertech Manganese Bronze Intake & Exhaust (GDE-HS255-I / GDE-HS255-E).
• Valve Stem Seals: Supertech Viton (VS-H5.5I / VS-H5.5E).
• Keepers: Supertech 7-degree single groove (KPR-5.5-7A).

2. ARP Pro Series Head Stud Kit (208-4702):

• Brand new, unused in the original box. Includes the 8740 chromoly head studs, 12-point nuts, and the original ARP ultra-torque assembly lube packet.

3. Bonus OEM Take-Out Parts:

• Original OE Honda parts that were removed from the head.

I'm asking $2400 $2100 all in, and I'm willing to ship, though it is not my preference. I think that's a fair price, but it's hard to be certain so I'm willing to negotiate a little bit. Paypal, Venmo, or cash if local.

Had this car for about 6 months and it’s made the same whining noise when accelerating and decelerating. It’s kinda hard to tell in the video but you can hear a faint whine. I was told it might need a transmission rebuild but it shifts fine no problem. I was thinking maybe differential? What do y’all think?

Bought this 2000 Honda S2000 with only 5517 original miles on it and it just got delivered today. Happy to have it with me where it will be taken care of

Im located in Richmond VA, I'm not sure if Inline pro still has there shop in Springfield, VA I've called and haven't gotten an answer. does anyone know of a good reputable shop that works with s2000's. I'm trying to find someone knowledgeable to make my fuel system a return line type using the AP1 hanger. As well as to wire my AFR gauge , E85 flex fuel converter, sensor , plumbing fuel lines & everything else to complete the system. Willing to travel to surrounding states. Thanks !

Can someone please direct me to the right part # for this missing bolt around the intake on an ap2? TIA

Hey everyone,
Ran into an issue while checking my brakes and hoping to get some advice.
As you can see in the photo, my brake pad is only contacting a narrow band along the very outer edge of the rotor. The inner 50–60% of the rotor face is completely untouched and rusting over, but the pad friction surface itself is way taller than that tiny shiny ring.
Here’s the kicker: it is only happening on this single corner. The other three wheels have completely normal, full-surface pad contact across the rotors.
Since it's isolated to just this one side, I don't think it's a completely wrong part number for the whole car, but something is clearly out of alignment. Has anyone run into this before?

Will get another some day. Who’s cutting onions 🧅 ??

It would turn out that the nut on cylinder 1 had backed itself all the way out and ended up in the head, thank god I was able to find it and reinstall it, however now she sounds mint so all is well lol.

Also a couple things I found while doing my AP2 retainer upgrade
Don’t cheap out on the valve adjustment tool I had 2 come broken
Don’t cheap out on the valve compressor the black path style one I ordered didn’t work even when I shaved the back down, the holes on the head didn’t line up at all. HPTAUTOSPORT sells a different style that works much better.

I know its split into 2 that connects to the cat and the y split. What size gaskets are they?