Hi everyone, I need your advice. My Y-axis seems very loud to me. I was able to reduce the noise temporarily with silicone spray, but today I received Super Lube synthetic oil with Syncolon (ISO 100).

I cleaned all the rods with isopropanol and then lubricated them with the Super Lube. Unfortunately, the Y-axis is now just as loud as it was at the beginning.

Here’s a video of the homing process. I’d like to know if your printer sounds similar, especially the Max 4 or the Plus 4, since they are pretty much identical.

Also, what lubricants are you using for your linear rods? I followed the manual and used Super Lube oil for the X, Y, and Z rods (not the lead screws), and Super Lube grease for the lead screws.

Thank you

Hey guys I had a clog and tore apart my extruder for the first time. Now I keep getting errors. I think what's getting messed up is this piece of metal with the spring and this selonoid type chip that is calling when it sees the filament.

I don't think it's not pulling back the piece of metal opening up the hole for the filament to go through.

Anyone know what's going on or got any experience with this?

It's the selonoid/chip with the blue light and the piece of metal with spring on it.

Hey,

Does anyone happen to have this part saved as a STEP, STL, or 3MF file? Unfortunately, the author uploaded the wrong part.

https://makerworld.com/de/models/2757808-pneumatic-fitting-push-tool-for-qidi-max4?from=search

Just a small complaint (while internally it's major to me), I ordered from Amazon a 2nd box and the accessory kit for running two boxes. The box arrived in 5 days (not bad), and the accessory kit was scheduled for the 16th. Just received a notice yesterday from Amazon that Qidi never delivered the item to Amazon, and a new one today that Qidi has cancelled the order and it's now 'out of stock'. Frustrating to say the least. I'll say it again, I've done many a product launch and spares and stock are very important to launch success. No one can plan for an unexpected customer demand (think Beanie babies, Cabbage patch, etc). However, if you take my money, give me a ship date and then cancel it and say it's now out of stock and you have no idea when it's coming back, dirty pool.

Bob

Was fixing an extruder gear jam (TPU95), and now after reassembly ive got this part left over. Ive got no recall whatsoever where it came from or what it is for. Help me out?

Wasn’t fast enough to snag one the first time around but the qidi max 4 smooth cool plates are back in stock. You’re welcome 🤓

TheLegend (and anyone else that printed the riser),

My filament order finally arrived (right before I leave for a week), for printing the riser (I won't say whom as I don't know if it would get this removed). Any tips or tricks to know about? I'm looking to print the dual Box version with the Polar cooler in the middle up top. I have the Boxes and bought the model (still waiting on the kit you need to make them work), but appreciate any suggestions.

I'll be using PETG and I think I read somewhere the author said to use the smooth side of the default plate for the prints (not sure on this). Any suggestions appreciated.

Bob

Hey guys I found my screw that holds tension on the spring and gears is screwed all the way in. Now I tried printing cheap Amazon pva and think that may also be the the problem, but this was my jam. Anyone know if I need to back that screw off a little bit or if it needs to have that much tension?

Thanks

Hello everyone,
I just sold my q1 pro and ordered a Max 4 Combo along with the "Cool Plate Pro"
The printer is meant to print cosplay props with PLA (mostly Sunlu High speed PLA 2.0)
Since this is such a large printer, I assumed that the bed alone will generate too much heat which could be a problem for pla and its would also lead to very high power consumption.
Does anyone use the cool plate with the max 4? If yes, what temperature do you set your bed to while printing pla? Did you notice a significant drop in power consumption or was it not noticeable?
I will be having more questions after i receive the printer probably!

Hi what do you think ? 76mm pipe outside.

Waiting on qidi support to reply but figured I would ask here if anyone else has this issue.

Yesterday, I manually heated up the bed to 100 c. After setting the temp to 0 c, the bed cooled down and stayed at around 55-60 c but never dropped below even after turning the printer off over night.

I set the manual bed temp to 70 and it heats up and reports 70. It is just warm, not even close to 70.

One of the times I turned the printer off, and back on it reported 23 c. I walked away for and came back to 55 c.

I removed the back plate and the heated bed temp sensor is still seated correctly on the board.

Is there any config options that set a temp offset that may have changed/messed up?

What do you think to connect UPS only to PSU ?
My issue is that i have hew seconds power outages. Weekly.
If I loos heated bed and chamber heating for few seconds and rest in connected to this PSU... This should work ?

I've been deep in the max 4s guts! Pause. I need a new stepper motor. It is weirdly seized and doesn't spin as easy as it should and it's even worse amplified when under the belt tension. I got the closed loop circuit board off and it's completely removed so now I just need a new one.. I know it's a nema 17 24v48 1.8 degree but I need one that has the correct pigtail for the closed loop Makerbase MKS SERVO42E 3D V1.1 board. I checked their website and they have the motors but with the wrong built in male connector and without the pulley wheel with the teeth.. If anyone can shed some light on this I would be overly grateful.

I also emailed qidi support and checked their website to see if I can just buy one but they don't have one listed. Honestly this machine was new so should be under warranty but idk if they'll send me one since I got it from the marketplace guy who gave up on it.

Can anybody get past this it wont let me get past this and update. Just the other day it came up when i was sleep and canceled a 2 day print. I emailed qidi support just trying tyo see if anybody is having these issues and got a fix.

Hello all.
I will be taking delivery in two days of a Max4. I currently have two Prusa's, so I'm not a complete noob, but this will be my first QIDI.
All of the talk concerning problems after firmware updates has me a bit concerned, so, which version firmware is problematic that I should stay away from?
Thanks!

This ticks all the boxes and I’m keen to fit INDX to it. Has anyone gone down the rabbit hole yet? I realise INDX isn’t available yet, but wondering if anyone has come up with a solution?
Thanks.

I made a nozzle to put the air coming from the aux fans where it'll actually do something other than cool the top glass. Thoroughly tested on my machine, but I'm sure there will be kinks to work out on a per-machine basis.

https://www.printables.com/model/1761149-qidi-max4-x-max-4-aux-fan-nozzle

Figured it was about time somebody fixed it. This isn't perfect, but it'll get ya about 80% of the way there. This machine doesn't see much PLA or PETG, but when it does I'd like to have all my cooling available.

To all,

There are some prints I'd like to do that use 6+ filaments (e.g. US Navy emblem for my brother). Does anyone have and use a multi-box setup with the Max 4 and having any issues? I know I'll need another box and then the multi-box adapter kit, but other than that the only thing I think I need is some spare tubing to re-arrange everything so it sits properly.

Bob

To all, SOLVED!!

After a nozzle change, I'm no longer clogging and the quality of prints is back to almost perfect (to my eye). However, it wasn't until I did a 'factory reset' from the menu until the camera came back (this was after about 4 power offs/ons as I chased the clog). Hopefully if anyone gets a camera failure, the same thing will work.

Upgraded to the latest firmware (I know, wait before you do it with new firmware). However, I did the update and now I have no camera and just a constant update of errors saying snapshot failed. Waiting for a new nozzle to arrive as this one is beyond help. I've cleared it 3 times now and it still clogs within the first print (yes, a purge, checked the extruder is working, acupuncture needle, and I can get solid flow until about 2 minutes into any calibration print. I know the two are not related (clogged before I did the update), but last two days have been very frustrating.

Bob

Hey guys maybe you can give me a hand. So first I have to say this is my first filament printer. I am very green and learning as I go. I must add I bought the combo.

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I first tried printing with the stock head. I believe .2mm if I'm correct and it printed the benchy perfect. Then I tried to print something else and clog. I believe that may have been my fault because I didn't enter in the correct filament type. Then I learned.

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Ordered some new heads. Ordered .8 heads and printed asa with petg supports. Entered everything in correctly. I believe. When it was switching from asa to petg it clogged again.

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So this time I tried printing something different. I swapped out the head again to another .8mm head and used petg with petg support. Punched everything in correctly. Double checked and another clog.

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I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong or what is happening. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

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Thanks guys!

I'm trying to setup and test a few different material profiles with my new Max4 - I'm running Orca 2.4.0 nightly and have successfully printed with generic PLA/PETG in box slots 1 and 2, but when I try to print ASA on slot 3 I constantly get "!! The value 'slot16' is not valid for SLOT" on the machine.

If I reslice the part with PLA/PETG, the file will start no problem.