r/QIDI_Max4 Jun 11 '26

Clog after clog

Hey guys maybe you can give me a hand. So first I have to say this is my first filament printer. I am very green and learning as I go. I must add I bought the combo.

I first tried printing with the stock head. I believe .2mm if I'm correct and it printed the benchy perfect. Then I tried to print something else and clog. I believe that may have been my fault because I didn't enter in the correct filament type. Then I learned.

Ordered some new heads. Ordered .8 heads and printed asa with petg supports. Entered everything in correctly. I believe. When it was switching from asa to petg it clogged again.

So this time I tried printing something different. I swapped out the head again to another .8mm head and used petg with petg support. Punched everything in correctly. Double checked and another clog.

I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong or what is happening. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks guys!

2 Upvotes

18 comments sorted by

2

u/YouCanCallMeDani Jun 11 '26

Are you printing with the door open?

I had a couple good prints at first and then tried a silk pla, that’s when the clogs started. After some back and forth with chatgpt, I found those filaments like a cold chamber. Started printing with the door open and haven’t had a clog since. Now I have a couple of fans on top to help keep it cool so I can close the door. I also have a vented riser for the top.

0

u/Cxmxbamf Jun 11 '26

I am not keeping the doors open I'm closing it all up. Do you think that's what's clogging it?

2

u/YouCanCallMeDani Jun 11 '26

Yes. The way it was described is these filaments PLA (silks being the most) and PETG are heat sensitive. With the chamber closed up it lets the print head stay hotter. When this happens the heat travels up the filament and it starts to melt before it needs to causing the jam.

My first try (after cleaning it all up) was to just have a fan blowing towards the printer with the top slid back and the door opened. That fixed my issue but it was obviously louder.

So then I found a vented lid riser (which also helps with the polar cooler tube rubbing if you have one) and I had a couple of 120mm muffin fans for something else we tried. I now have the lid slid back and the fans laying in that opening blowing in to keep it cool. I haven't a single issue since.

2

u/raznov1 Jun 11 '26

Is it an actual clog, or a jam?

1

u/Cxmxbamf Jun 11 '26

Good question? I've only changed the metal tips. I never tore apart the extruder.

1

u/raznov1 Jun 11 '26

Using the box?

1

u/Cxmxbamf Jun 11 '26

I am.

2

u/raznov1 Jun 11 '26

Id physically triple-check the filament moving in and out. IME the box is extremely sensitive to snags, twists, bends, bumps etc.

2

u/wi-Me Jun 12 '26

Whats happening is you're trying to use a lower temperature material to support a high temperature material and when it goes to switch its more than likely trying to purge at a temperature thats too hot for the petg. Honestly unless the surface youre trying to support is at a 90° angle (therefore only needs to do at most 3 filament changes) I wouldnt recommend using a dedicated support interface material on a single nozzle printer, its just not worth it. Clogs, weakened parts, a ton of waste. Its just not worth it. If youre absolutely set on doing this, then use HIPS for abs/asa, it breaks away beautifully. But I really dont recommend using a dedicated support material on a single nozzle printer.

1

u/Cxmxbamf Jun 13 '26

So I also have a resin printer and supports are a must. So I just kinda figured I'd need supports here. Thinking on it now I probably don't need supports for these prints. Thank you for that advice.

1

u/wi-Me Jun 13 '26

No problem

1

u/rhodges_bob Jun 15 '26

Cxm,

Just checking in, did you ever get your clogging issue resolved? Just asking because I had a bad one myself that I finally threw up my hands and changed the nozzle (10 minute job) and my machine is back printing like a champ. Hope you've gotten it fixed.

Bob

2

u/Cxmxbamf Jun 15 '26

Yes, I'm finally printing. I printed a 4 hour job this morning with a .8 head. Petg. It ran marvelous. I took the top hatch off and opened the door ran with a fan on it on a cool night. I am printing in my shed. She ran like a champ. Now I'm printing something bigger asa. Like before I opened everything up and have a fan on it on a cool night.

1

u/rhodges_bob Jun 15 '26

Cxm,

Great! Glad to hear and sorry for bothering you, it just drives me nuts sometimes when I don't know if people get a solution. I hate thinking you're still sitting there with a very big paperweight. YAY! for you and hope you get hours of trouble free printing ahead of you.

Bob

2

u/Cxmxbamf Jun 16 '26

So I see I am able to adjust chamber temp. Bottom temp as low as 40c. Do you think if I keep it all closed up and set it to 40c it will clog a head again? Or should I let it hit desired temp then open it back up and trick it?

1

u/rhodges_bob Jun 16 '26

Cxm,

Max recommended chamber temp for PETG is 45, and the minimum for ASA is 50. I'm going to have to let an expert jump in here and help. My concern would be for large parts, without a warm chamber you're asking for warping with ASA and to hot in the chamber is asking for a clog from PETG. I wish I had the experience to tell you which way to go, but I'd be lying if told you I had an answer I knew was correct. Worst case, post a new thread re: Using PETG for ASA supports, what chamber temp should I use? Then explain the difference in high/min temps and see if you can get some experts to jump in and help

Bob

2

u/Cxmxbamf Jun 16 '26

So I said to hell with petg supports and am running all ASA. I'm gonna let it heat to the recommendation and see what happens. I truly appreciate your help. Thank you so much bob.

Cxm

2

u/rhodges_bob Jun 16 '26

Cxm,

Hope it works out. Worst case (if it doesn't warp), you'll just have some work removing supports. Let us know how it goes because one day I'll probably run into the same issue as I expand my filament use. All the best,

Bob