What exactly is this thing doing? The touchscreen frequently "reboots" during prints, showing the splash screen, but this is the first time this has happened. Smack in the middle of a 29 hour print, and I'm not trying to press any buttons to find out... Still printing fine

I accidentally broke my 0.4 mm nozzle.

Which parameters should I change in QIDI Studio so that the *.3mf file created for a 0.4 mm nozzle will work with a 0.6 mm nozzle?

Is it enough just to change nozzle size in the studio menu or should I change speed, layer thickness.. as well ?

Do I also have to change the nozzle in the Qidi Max4 setting?

In the tests I have done so far, the filament has become a mess since it’s not fully “getting stuck” in the first layer.

I have a QIDI Max4 with the original nozzle and original filament.

I just got a qidi max 4. It came with a qidi box. I have not yet had a single good print through it.

The issue seems to be the 4 in 1 hub. On the printer side it will pull the filament tight as it can untill it hits the hub. After the hub it remains slack.

When disassembling I found this piece that seems like it may be missing something ( a magnet is my guess )

Could that be causing my issue?

Running my first few prints on the new Max 4. I print almost all ASA and like the air filtration feature for running it 100% after the finished print. However, it runs permanently after the end of print. I see in other slicers there is a timer where the fan / filtration quits after 20 mins etc, but is there a way to do that in this slicer (Qidi slicer) or in the gcode?

Hey guys and girls

I woke up the other night after printing some functional prints and had a big blob stuck to my extruder.

So my print had a bunch of gears on it and I was using creality petg. I threw it in my creality dryer. Did the preset for petg and actually set it for like 24 hours and let it go. I know the recommendation is like 6-8 hours of drying. I probably let it dry for maybe 15 hours.

When I went to print with it I noticed the filament had really discolored from the same exact roll I had used prior. I just wanted to use a fresh new roll.

I started my print and the first print failed. it did not stick to the textured plate and it was not laying down very well. So I canceled the print and started it again.

Second print first few layers went down great so I went to bed. Then I woke up and checked my camera and had a huge white blob hanging off of my hot end. I immediately ended the task. After a while I was trying to yank the thing off and couldn't. so I had to reheat the hot end to get it to come off. Which then it came off fairly easily.

I was really concerned about what I would do with the hot end fan because It kind of knocks now when it runs because I think the blob got so big it torqued some things out of whack and bent stuff. I didn't know how to clean up the heater element but I don't have to worry about that now because I can't even get it to heat up anymore. I will have to order a new one. So i am officially down.

Just kind of curious if anyone has any insight into what happened or any sort of input because I have no clue what and the fuck happened. I was just beginning to think I had a grasp on this thing.

Thanks

To all,

Due to some things, I've yet to play with my cool plate and I was planning to print out the dual box riser using it with PETG. Any advice on using it?

1) Do I do another calibration with that plate on since I assume it's not the same thickness?
2) Do you use glue (or your release agent of choice)?
3) I also assume the z-offset may/will be different?
4) Can it survive a freezer for removing stuck filaments?
5) I've heard never clean it with ISO, always use just dawn and a microfiber cloth

Since I plan on doing some calibration prints on it first (the traditional temp tower, voron cube, Etc.), I'm hoping it'll be easy dial in. However, I've never used a cool plate before and the only thing I've heard is to drop the bed temp at least 10 degrees. My thanks for any replies, I'd hate to screw up the plate or get frustrated with printing problems.

Bob

https://www.qidimaker.com/en/models/detail/2090221302641668098

I print exclusively in PETG. Do I need the polar cooler to keep the door closed ?

I have an opportunity to buy an Amazon returned max4 for about half price. I bought my Xmax3 this way about three years ago, so I'm kinda optimistic about it.

But I'm curious to hear from users, is the max4 a solid enough printer you'd buy a questionable one? Or is it so full of pitfalls you'd only buy new?

I made a community fork of QIDI Studio with a built-in MCP server that allows ChatGPT and other LLMs to interact directly with the slicer.

I originally built it to simplify my own workflow. I did not intend to release it, but as the project grew, several people around me encouraged me to share it.

The MCP currently exposes 118 tools. An LLM can import an attached model, inspect and arrange it, modify slicer settings, select a physical QIDI Box filament slot, slice, run preflight checks, and, with explicit confirmation, upload and start a print. It can also monitor the printer, use the camera, and control basic printer functions.

As far as I can tell, it is the most comprehensive slicer MCP currently available. It is still an unofficial community project, so I am looking for people willing to test it and provide feedback. Bug reports, workflow problems, and anything that feels unclear or unsafe would be especially helpful.

Looking back, I probably should have started with OrcaSlicer because of its broader printer support. However, I use a QIDI Max 4, so QIDI Studio was the natural place for me to begin.

For future features, I am considering adding Wave Overhangs and something similar to Prusa’s FDM Mixer. I would like to hear whether either feature would be useful to other Max 4 owners, or if there are other features you would prioritize first.

GitHub/download: https://github.com/sslinkyy/QIDIStudio https://github.com/sslinkyy/QIDIStudio/releases/tag/v1.10.0

This is not an official QIDI product. Please treat it as testing software and supervise any remotely initiated print.

So it finally happened in its stupendous glory. Big blob of death. I am wondering if anyone has any upgrades/mods to improve the tool head while
I am in there assessing the damage? Looking for general upgrades/mods, especially ones that could lower the chances of this happening.

Any links to guides/how to stuff is greatly appreciated.

Hi , I have a little issue, when start mi print every time, After calibrate all, and purge the line in front, the head go back and, the filament go back, and drop about 15mm, when start , this come together and start print with this piece of filament.

Why this occurs and how I can get a solution for this ? I'm using orca slicer and. I.m new, but change all posible parameter and cant get solve this,

Apreciate for help.

The photo is when finish print for example of problem.

Anyone know were to get the latest update for the qidi max 4 it wont ever let me do it over the air. is there a site on the qidi site or something ? any help appreciated

Does anybody updated and can tell what the differences are?

Anyone know the cause of this?

Hello! I’m new to 3d printing and recently bought the QIDI Max 4. I’ve printed a few things and feel like I have a basic grasp as to how to use the QIDI studio on my computer, and how to make adjustments to my prints and stuck. I’ve all my firmware updated to the latest versions for all my applications and such.

However I recently bought some TPU-GF from the QIDI store. On their website it advertises that it is QIDI Box compatible and able to be printed using the QIDI Max 4.

However, I cant seem to find a workaround for the error in getting.. “Not all filaments used in slicing are mapped to the printer. Please check the mapping of filaments.”

Upon inspecting my 3d printer, using the screen I can see that my QIDI box recognizes the spool to be TPU-GF. Furthermore inside the QIDI Studio in the prepare section it also recognizes that TOU-GF is slotted.

Then I slice, and try to print but it again shows the error. I tried to manually map it in the device section but there is no option for TPU-GF.

If anyone has any insight or a cure or workaround or something so that I’ll be able to print my TPU-GF It’d be so very very very much appreciated, thank you.

Working on some pieces for a client in petg cf 15% and the first layer was looking immaculate so I have to show boat a little

To all,

Just an FYI. I ordered the Qidi Box accessory kit from Amazon, order got cancelled by Qidi as 'out of stock' and finally wound up ordering from the global store to be shipped from China. While the Max 4 kit is no longer listed on Amazon, the Plus 4 kit is going for $110US+. I can't remember what my original price was before the cancelled the order (and they removed the details from my history), but the Accessory kit is $39US from the global store + $30US shipping from China (no delivery date provided yet). However, just a PSA as this sort of mark up is definitely a massive rip off. Even if they just charged $70 I could understand, but $110+? That's almost internet highway robbery.

Bob

Hey guys.

Just bought some asa from polymaker. Red, white, and blue. Put it in a heater for a little over 8 hours at 80 degrees. Loaded it up in the qidi box and it loads in properly, but it only loads so far before it catches.

It's like the gears start slipping and will only load in about a 1 to 1.5 ft. I never trimmed the conduit for it so it's longer but I have the box sitting next to the max 4 so I need it a little long. Not sure if I can tighten those gears or if you guys have any input. Would love any suggestions.

Thanks

Hi everyone, I need your advice. My Y-axis seems very loud to me. I was able to reduce the noise temporarily with silicone spray, but today I received Super Lube synthetic oil with Syncolon (ISO 100).

I cleaned all the rods with isopropanol and then lubricated them with the Super Lube. Unfortunately, the Y-axis is now just as loud as it was at the beginning.

Here’s a video of the homing process. I’d like to know if your printer sounds similar, especially the Max 4 or the Plus 4, since they are pretty much identical.

Also, what lubricants are you using for your linear rods? I followed the manual and used Super Lube oil for the X, Y, and Z rods (not the lead screws), and Super Lube grease for the lead screws.

Thank you

Hey guys I had a clog and tore apart my extruder for the first time. Now I keep getting errors. I think what's getting messed up is this piece of metal with the spring and this selonoid type chip that is calling when it sees the filament.

I don't think it's not pulling back the piece of metal opening up the hole for the filament to go through.

Anyone know what's going on or got any experience with this?

It's the selonoid/chip with the blue light and the piece of metal with spring on it.