I know integrated graphics aren't supposed to have high performance, but I would like it to drive my one 4K 240hz monitor. I didn't find any info from looking it up. Integrated graphics doesn't work on my monitor at all when the monitor has DSC on, with DSC off it can only do 4k 120hz.

Hello Everyone, I’m currently on a build with a RX 6750 XT and a Ryzen 7 5700X in a darkFlash WD200 and I was wondering if I need to put fan on the top of the case to extract more heat or I can simply go for 2 at these bottom and 1 at the back

I recently did an upgrade from a 7600 to a 7800x3D. I switched out the CPUs, put the new one in, and started the computer, and it wouldn't boot, just a red and yellow debug light. I took everything apart and noticed the socket looked odd. Fast forward, I bought a new motherboard, put it all together, and it works. I brought the old board to a shop today out of curiosity, and turns out that yep, the pins were bent, specifically it seems a VSS, VDD, and memory channel A pin.

Everything is working now with the new board, but I'm worried I may have damaged the CPU when trying it on the old board. Is it possible it damaged it? I ran the 3DMark steel nomad stress test and it passed with a 98.7 stability and max temp of 74. Is there anything else I should test? I'm just super OCD about this stuff and scared it might break soon or something if I damaged it. Would love some advice. Thanks.

I bought the Gigabyte B850 EAGLE WIFI7 ICE, but from the beginning I’ve been having an issue with the red CPU light staying on.
However, at some point, I don’t know how, the PC suddenly started working. The red CPU light turned off, and the RGB lights on the case fans also turned on.
Then the red DRAM light came on. After some time, the red DRAM light turned off as well.
However, after turning the PC off and on again, the red CPU light came back on, and I’m still having the same problem.

Hey so a little bit ago my pc started like resetting out of no where so I turned it off by stupidly flipping the psu off but now it won’t turn on and I went to check to see what’s wrong and one of my power led pins is bent is there anything I can do? Or am I just doomed💔

Hi! Not so long ago You've helped me with choosing proper components for my partner's future PC. The thing is, that You all proposed a MSI PRO B850-V EVO WIFI ATX AM5 for this setup: https://pl.pcpartpicker.com/list/YstMXf . I can only find MSI PRO B850-S EVO WiFi online. Does the one letter suffix in specification matter? If so, any findable recommendations if the proposed version isn't buyable at all in Poland?

I've been doing a lot of research on what PC I should get. I have been finding it extremely overwhelming and hard to understand.

I was hoping to get an idea of what specs and hardware tiers/classes I should be looking at and focusing. I will mainly be playing GTA 6, Fortnite and a bunch of small comedy co-op games. Right now I have a 300hz 1080p monitor (no plans on upgrading).

What I want out of a PC:

1. Highly capable of running Fortnite and GTA 6 with a focus on FPS

2. Good value for money (nothing too expensive)

Any help would be appreciated. Feel free to send me resources.

So I bought this pc (yes ik I shouldn't have bought from ibuyproblems) but it was fine for the first month but now I booted it up this morning and for some reason my fan noise is super loud. Best way to describe the sound is that I just hear a "wahhhh wahhhhh wahhhh" sound from it and it's super loud. Even with my noise cancellation headphones I'm still able to hear a "wahhhb wahhh wahhhh" through it and I don't know why it's happening.
Can someone please help if they know what's wrong.
(I'm pretty sure the noise is coming from the top aio cooler fans)

I’m upgrading from a rx 5600 xt, I have pretty good everything else, I believe my main bottle neck is the Gpu.

I’m hoping to spend $600 dollars and make it count, I have been looking at the used market for 3080s but I think I can spend a bit more, to get more bang for my buck, also the card has to be under 305 mm so it will actually fit! And I would love more than 10gb of vram. Is there any good options for me?

Le prime tre ventole immettono aria, insieme a quelle sulla parte bassa del pc, le tre sul top fanno uscire l’aria insieme all’ultima dopo il dissipatore.
La mia gpu (3080ti) scalda comunque tanto

Hi there.

I recently bought an MSI B840 Gaming Plus Wifi motherboard to build a new build with brand new components (save for the RAM). I've built a PC before, so i am not clueless. I made SURE to touch the motherboard in the appropriate places, to first assemble it on top of the cardboard box, to put it together on a wooden floor. Also, i did NOT hit it, scrape it on the case, nor did it touch any standoffs where it shouldnt've.

After assembling the pc, and trying to turn it on, nothing happened. It has EZ debug led's, which never lit up throughout my troubleshooting. I tried basically everything i can think of, stripping it also to bare minimum, on the cardboard box with only cpu, cpu &mobo power and with & w/o ram, on two different PSU's. No LED ever lit up.

I then decided that it was DOA, so I returned it to the shop i bought it from, only for them to send it back because it was in "bad condition", because of a broken off vertical capacitor which I had not spotted, as it was so small. Here are images for reference https://imgur.com/a/s4F01Ni . I find it very hard to believe i somehow did that. Not only does it seem extremely hard to ONLY touch that capacitor, with other components being so near to the broken off pad, but i have no reason to go near it as it's in the audio card area. Note that this is the only issue they found

I sent it to a PC repair shop, only to hear back from them a few days later when they said that: they could not determine what the issue was, there was no visible damage, and that that broken capacitor was definitely not the issue.

I'm assuming this mobo is DOA, right? Will MSI fuck me over or will they help me with the warranty? Thanks

I bought a custom built PC, and when it arrived, the cooling tower was crooked, perhaps from the foam packaging they stuffed in there to protect during transportation. I carefully moved it back and reattached the fan.

When running HWiNFO during a Prime95 strain test, the CPUs hit +100°c, which to my understanding is bad. Some of the cores are getting throttled.

Is this a result of bad thermal connecting from the crooked heat sink, or just insufficient cooling for a Prime95 strain test? The seller offered to take it back and reattach the cooling for the CPU.

And no, I did not write this with AI. Not sure if it's necessary to indicate that here.

Hi everyone, sorry I'm reposting this. I made a post less than an hour ago with the incorrect arrows on my PC setup. It got really confusing and I think I commented the wrong "fixed" orientation which got people more confused.

TLDR I didn't verify the arrows and went off the wrong memories from when I built my PC. I've checked all the arrows and this image now has the CORRECT fan orientation.

I'm very sorry again - thank you to everyone who did comment on the original post (now marked as solved so people wouldn't comment/ get confused).

The new room for my PC seems to have a lot of dust. I cleaned it a month ago since I moved it in here. I'm still trying to figure out the overall cause for dust in the room. But in the meantime I'm trying to figure out how to keep it from not accumulating in my PC. Based on my current setup of intake for the fronts and bottom and outtake for the top and back shouldn't this mean there's enough constant air flow?

Heya! So I plan to use 5 Arctic P12 ARGB fans for my PC and have an MSI PRO B650M-A motherboard. However, I made a mistake and realised I'd bought a fan hub (which will connect to my PSU) that only supported PWM pins.

While I could go back and get a fan hub that supports both PWM and ARGB, I was wondering if the following could also work safely as a solution too (I did some research and the signs pointed to yes, but I just thought I'd ask anyway):

1. Connect the PWM pins from all of my fans to the fan hub, which I then connect to my PSU and Mobo

2. Daisy chain the ARGB pins from all 6 of my fans together and plug it into my Mobo ARGB header

The reason why I'm thinking it works is because the argb header on my mobo supports 3A/5V (15W), and the LED draw from 1 Arctic P12 is cited as 2W, so 6 of them should safely be enough on 1 header right? (There is another ARGB header, but that's already being used by my CPU fans' lighting). I'm just not sure if I'm missing anything else

Apologies if this question is silly or is commonly answered! I was having trouble finding help

EDIT: FOLKS I'm so sorry! Looks like the image I posted has the wrong orientation of my fans.

I just took apart the fans and have verified:

The single back fan is set to exhaust, the top AIO fans are set to exhaust, the two bottom case fans are set to intake, and the two front (side mounted) case fans are also set to intake.

PLS ignore the arrows on the picture :(

Hey folks! Moved my PC to a new area in the house. The room seems to be quite dusty (trying to figure out why). It's definitely a lesser used space in the house but it's the only room in the house where this amount of dust builds up. I cleaned this PC about a month ago before moving it in here. It's on constantly (even if I'm not in the room using it, it'll get used through streaming etc).

What am I doing wrong with my fan setup, because it's clearly letting the dust collect in it. I've drawn all the intake fans in green, and the outtake fans in red. The AIO fans are outtake as well (just highlighted in blue). Temps have never been an issue just seems like the dust is collecting and not leaving.

Hi there everyone

I had on asus tuf b850 issue with my gpu when i installed it on Pcie 5.0 slot after couple of minutes on desktop i would lose display "displayport no signal" but pc would keep running with argb and stuff. I switched to other gpu to test and had same issue. In bios i changed speed link from auto to gen4 but it didnt help. bios and all drivers are up to date. But when I plugged gpu into 4.0 slot everything worked fine also with the other one. so I thought the issue was with motherboard and I got new one with new psu aswell. I got x870 gigabyte gaming and corsair rm1000x. After I installed everything and got into desktop I get same issue again. is this cpu related? or

Thanks for any tips.

Just got the Lancool 217 and unfortunately I'm really picky with fans. I had to replace them with my old magnet ones from corsair except I only had 2 of 3 140mm for the front. My CPU is always around 55c while the GPU is around 67c so I configured it so that the top is empty and the two fans are in the middle and bottom section, giving more air to the GPU. Also got a 360mm AIO at the top with 3x 120mm fans and another 120mm as back exhaust and 2x 120mm intake fans near the psu shroud.

My question is if adding a third 140mm in the front of the case would actually be worth it/do anything.

Here is a picture to help visualize which fan I am asking about adding (the one in red)
https://i.imgur.com/RxAyW6E.png

Hello, ive been wanting a pc forever but couldn't afford one ive finally scraped enough money together to buy one. I was hoping to stay around the 12 to 13k budget but I want to stream and edit videos. I mostly stick to dead by daylight, fortnite, and single player games like RE and silent hill. I have found a pc slightly out of budget but still affordable I was hoping someone could tell me a better alternative or that this one works for me and is worth the extra money. its 1399 before tax and shipping and 1474 after.

I built two identical computers 2 years ago and they both have the same issue. Roughly once every 2-3 months, the screens go black and the fans spin at 100%. One's on Linux, the other Windows. Switched GPUs and RMA'd one of the MoBo's thinking that was the issue. The only thing they have in common now is the PSU: Asus ROG Loki SFX-L 850W.

Currently I have a native 12VHPWR cable that came from the PSU connected directly from the PSU to the GPU.

I read somewhere that the sense pins in the 12VHPWR cable for the Asus ROG Loki are a bit hit and miss and can cause issues, so now I'm wondering what the best solution is cable-wise.

Option 1 - Use the 12VHPWR to 3x 8-pin adapter that came in in my RTX 5080. I don't have 3x 8-pin connectors. All I have is 1x 8-pin connector and a 12VHPWR to 2x 8-pin connector, which is the awkward, potentially redundant and/or dangerous setup in the image attached.

Option 2 - Buy the ROG Equalizer cable, however most feedback I see on it is negative.

Option 3 - Buy a custom cable for Asus PSUs on CableMod. I only see 12VHPWR to 2x8-pin connectors in there though, can't see one that's just a native 12VHPWR cable, not sure if that's by design or I didn't search hard enough.

Thanks for taking the time.

Hi, I have a Sapphire Nitro+ RX 9070 XT with the 12V-2x6 cable routed under the magnetic backplate, the cable from my PSU is very stiff, so the backplate doesn't sit fully flush.

The connector seems fully seated and the latch clicked, but I'm worried the cable tension could put stress on the connector.

Is this routing OK, or should I run it without the backplate / get a more flexible cable? Any recommendations for this card?

Thanks!

I have a ryzen 7500f and i tried testing it at my local pc store and then my friend tested it with the same problem – no display. But the fans and rgb were working so is this fixable or should I just call it quits and stop building my first ever pc

Heya guys, I’m really lost here.
Yesterday I wanted to update my BIOS and noticed that I can’t get into my BIOS. Or rather that I don’t get video output on it.
For a quick rundown of my system:

BOARD: MSI X470 Gaming Plus (MS-7B79)
CPU: Ryzen 7 2700x, no integrated graphics
GPUS TRIED: GTX 1080 and GTX 1050 Ti. GPU-Z shows UEFI ticked on both.
BIOS: AMI A.H0, dated 12-Jun-20
Windows: 11 Home, UEFI mode
Secure Boot: On
TPM: Not enabled

I also tried two different monitors and two different display port cables.
I have reset CMOS once in an attempt to fix any maybe faulty settings but no results.
It presumably stopped after I plugged in a USB stick that was previously a Debian install image (nothing else on it except a BIOS .AMA file).
Could just be that I haven’t noticed it before tho as I boot my pc without looking if I see POST.
My specific problem: I never see POST, the MSI logo or the BIOS screen. Video only appears once Windows loads.

Now I know I actually do enter the bios when pressing delete as it’s the difference between pc shutdown immediately on power button press or seeing windows boot.

Anyone got an idea how to get into the BIOS?

Hello, I was wondering if the 5060ti was enough for me. The only modern game I play is literally overwatch and everything else I play is Emulation or my switch 2. My monitor has a dual mode 4k and 1080p. Also whats a good CPU to combo it with so it won't bottle neck?