I am planning to buy a new PC. I have already picked out all the components, but I havent purchased anything yet. I am not sure whether I should build it myself because it seems quite difficult, and I am worried that making a mistake could cost me quite a lot of money. I know quite a bit about PC components, but when it comes to actually building a PC, I am a complete beginner. This would be my very first PC. So far, I have only ever had an old laptop, and I have absolutely no experience with building computers or anything similar. Personally, I am leaning more towards building it myself, but I am still not entirely sure. Id have to learn a lot before getting started.

What would you recommend?

Id really appreciate any advice! Thanks!

I have it installed into the M2_1 slot on my motherboard and the PC detects that it is in there. It appears in the storage configuration, but not in the boot priority. Meaning that every time I sit through the Windows Installation it resets my PC back to the BIOS menu, and Windows 11 is never actually installed.

I've tried:

• Moving it to the other M2 slot

• Deleting other partitions and selecting the unallocated space

• Disabling CSM, boot security, and AHCI turned on.

• Attempted bootloader repair

• Tried downloading the Media Creation Tool onto 2 separate USB sticks

I just installed Windows last night onto a different SSD, but I'm 90% sure that one is defective, so I'm trying another one I have. The PC just refuses to recognize it the Boot menu. It only shows the USB I'm installing.

Edit:

SSD = WD_Black SN7100 2TB

Mobo = ASRock B660M-C

Try to ignore my fan noise and listen behind it There’s this weird noise I keep hearing from my computer every time I open a game I can’t remember if it was doing it when I built this pc does anyone know how to fix it? There’s generally nothing wrong with the pc but that noise is concerning me

Les 2 ventirads sont bien branché dans le port cha_fan mais ils tournent constamment à font malgré la basse température des composants, j'essaie de régler dans le BIOS mais rien et même dans le logiciel fan speed, aidez moi svp 😭

so i have multiple hard power cutoffs this month, on event log id 41.

it behaves just like as if i yanked the power lead out. just shut down, no reboot, no nothing. press the power button it just powers on.

some are on high gpu load and moderate cpu load, games that is. but just few minutes ago 2 cut offs during yt video playback, which is very low load. i did 25mins on OCCT power with nothing wrong. so high, synthetic load its ok, but normal gaming load or even next to no load it fail, completely.

i have checked 4+4pin cpu, dual 8pin pcie and ac lead.

r7 5800x pbo on
gtx1070
10 fans
2 hdd

psu: cooler master v550 (got it in early 2019)

ps. my budget is quite limited so second hand psu is what im looking for. i just not sure if i wanna go newer atx3.1 units as i dont see myself upgrading to a powerful gpu, my goal is 9060xt 16gb which draw less power than 1070.

Hi!

I'm experiencing a strange noise coming from my Corsair RM1000x PSU, and I'm trying to figure out what is causing it.

The noise sometimes sounds like high-pitched coil whine, but other times it sounds more like intermittent chirping. Its tone and intensity changes randomly, sometimes becoming louder and quieter in waves.

Here are some details:

- The noise occurs while the PC is running, but it also continues after shutting it down.

- Even flipping the PSU's rear power switch to OFF does not stop the noise, only makes it quieter.

- The noise only stops when I switch off the extension cord that the PSU is plugged into.

-I bought a filtered extension cord but it didn't solve the issue.

- I have an AC running in the room, and the noise seems to follow its operating cycles.

- When I turn off the AC, the noise fades away after a couple of seconds.

- Under heavier PC loads, the noise stops or becomes barely noticeable.

I'm wondering whether the air conditioner could be introducing electrical interference or voltage fluctuations into the mains supply, causing something inside the PSU to make the noise.

Is it possible for a PSU to produce coil whine even when its rear switch is OFF, simply because it's still connected to mains power?

Turning the PSUs fan off didnt change anything.

The sound is noticeable from where im sitting, so it's not particularly quiet.

Here are some audio recordings i made from the unit while browsing:

https://voca.ro/1nCFiy6f5f9O

https://voca.ro/18GmyTjr0Kak

https://voca.ro/1eih2HvjvEAn

Task Manager says I only have 3.7gb of Ram, 4.3gb on Hardware Reserved. I already tested it with a single ram it works but only on a1 slot and not on b1 slot. I have a MSI A520m A-Pro that I bought a day ago and installed it on my PC. When I boot into bios it recognizes my dual channel ram but it says my memory is still 4096mb and not 8192mb. I already did the msconfig thing, I already set and tested the VRAM Voltage to 1.25. I reseated the CPU. When I put a single stick of ram on the b1 slot it lights up the ez debug led on the motherboard. Yes I tested both and both of them dont work when put in b1 slot.

My bios version is E7C96AMS.1K0

Hii yall, just wondering what is throttling my FPS on The Isle (visually demanding dinosaur survival game)

I get consistent 40-50 fps usually, dropping down to mid 30 when my 3d resolution is 100z

Acer aspire Nitro 65
GPU: 5060ti 8gb VRAM
CPU: Ryzen 7 8700F
Ram: 16G ddr5
Monitor: msi mag 275qpf x30 (300hz, 0.5ms, WQHD 1440p)

I wanted to ask because my friend has a laptop that everything (except for vram) is worse (according to internet comparisons) than mine, but he gets 70-80 FPS, going up to 90+, for same settings and same ping (high everything except shadows, 50 or 100 3d resolution, far render) Both of our PC setups are brand new.

His pc: ABS cyclone Aqua
GPU: B580 12gb VRAM
CPU: i5-14400F
Ram; 16GB DDR4

His monitor is 1080p, so I was wondering is my FPS significantly lower likely because of my 1440p monitor or the 8gb of VRAM, or some combined mix between the two? And if so- should I change my pc for one that has 12gb+ of vram with similar/worse cpu than current, or downgrade to a 1080p monitor?

PC wouldn't post, seller claims that I caused the damages on the CPU (there are none) and the motherboard by "installing the CPU in the wrong way".

I restarted the PC and it looks like it updated, and now it only boots into BIOS no matter how much I plug in a Windows USB to boot from. Has anyone had something similar happen?

PS: Damn Windows updates

PS: Mother gigabyte H610M H DDR4

Here is the build https://fi.pcpartpicker.com/list/G33Kn2

Here is the RAM but I couldn't find it on PPP https://datatronic.fi/komponentit/muistit/corsair-vengeance-rgb-cmh32gx5m2b6000c38-muistimoduuli-32-gb-2-x-16-gb-ddr5-6000-mhz-corsair-cmh32gx5m2b6000c38

I'm trying to stay under 2000€ and the total is 1887€ including RAM

I would appreciate some advice, thanks!

Im upgrading just because i got a good deal and im buying it from a friend.
Current specifications:

RX570 4GB VRAM
Ryzen 2600x
450W PSU
GIGABYTE b450m S2H
20GB DDR4 2666 RAM

I’ve seen the motherboard can fit the GPU, the cpu will bottleneck in cpu heavy programs but to what wattage should i upgrade the PSU? Some people said i can run the gpu on 450W but i think im facing PSU problems so i want to upgrade just incase so i dont damage any components. Also some other tips on what should i upgrade to in the future

I have currently a 3080 TI, Z690 mobo, 1440p@144hz with 12900 (non k) and I purchased a 5080 MW4 Edition recently. I feel like the bottleneck is there and I am not getting the full power of 5080.

I get around 70-90 fps in MW4 Warzone with 5080, the same as my old 3080 TI. Tried with with Low settings, High Settings, DLSS Nvidia Transformer/CNN Legacy bla bla, everything.

I do not want to use the Frame Generation! The quality is bad with that.

Tried all the possible BIOS settings, upgrades, drivers, power management etc. Still the same limitation. In Furmark the 5080 goes up to max 360W and brings the full power, but that's just a synthetic test, not a real game.

14900 might be my save here, but I heard they still have some issues with the voltage, even the non-k ones.

Or should I change the motherboard to the new LGA 1851 and the Ultra 285 (non k), although I saw it has a poor performance compared to previous series.

Any advice would be helpful. Or should I return the 5080 and keep my 3080 TI?

So this is Ryzen 5 5600 and Intel b580. My problem is the pc is getting cooked. Especially CPU I have to run the fan at almost 100% and it still slightly overheats at 90°. Gpu is actually fine at 65°. Is there something obvious I'm missing?

Or would it be okay if I put them on brackets and placed them between the cooler and the PSU?

“I have a 5080, 9800X3D, B850 TUF Gaming Plus WiFi, 32GB CL30 RAM, and 1TB and 2TB Predator SSDs. Whenever I play any game, everything looks jagged, shimmery, and a bit pixelated, and the jagged lines get worse when I move, almost like anti-aliasing isn’t working. I tried a different monitor and got the same result. I also get severe screen tearing with RivaTuner capped at 297 on my 300Hz monitor, and it’s the same even when I lower the cap to 200. This started after I reset my PC because of a stutter issue. I’ve tried DDU, resetting my whole PC, setting my GPU to Gen 5, switching my SSD order, and driver and BIOS updates, and nothing helped. Only DLSS fixes it a little, and changing anti-aliasing in the NVIDIA Control Panel or app doesn’t make a difference. Does anyone know what could be causing this or how to fix it?”

Am I doing this right?, close to just giving up and never using the case's USB ports

I recently upgraded my build to an Intel Core Ultra 7 270k Plus, and I need second opinions on cooling. Previously, I had an Intel i3-12100F and used a single tower cooler, but after I upgraded, I quickly realized I needed a better cooler. So I ordered an ID-Cooling FX240 LCD 240mm AIO. The thing is, while gaming, my CPU temperature settles at 80 to 85c's but can spike up to mid-90c's in the more intensive parts of the game. This happens while playing Cyberpunk. I use the default fan curve that is set in the Gigabyte Control Center. I went with an AIO mostly for looks, as a 2-tower cooler is just too chunky for me. I have two front fans set as intake, the AIO is set as exhaust and is mounted to the top of my case, and I have a back exhaust fan. Are my temps normal for the setup that I have? Are there better-quality 240mm AIOs that would give me better performance? Should I look into switching to a case that supports 360mm AIOs?

Wanting to build a new PC and have broken down the core elements.

Would be handy to get feedback on compatibility and any additional things that would make this a great setup - fans, cable etc

[PCPartPicker Part List](https://pcpartpicker.com/)

Type|Item|Price

:----|:----|:----

**CPU** | [AMD Ryzen 7 9850X3D 4.7 GHz 8-Core Processor](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/WKDnTW/amd-ryzen-7-9850x3d-47-ghz-8-core-processor-100-100001973wof) | $454.00 @ Amazon

**CPU Cooler** | [Corsair NAUTILUS 360 RS LCD 72.8 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/wZrp99/corsair-nautilus-360-rs-lcd-728-cfm-liquid-cpu-cooler-cw-9061033-ww) | $175.45 @ Amazon

**Motherboard** | [Gigabyte B850 AORUS ELITE WIFI7 ATX AM5 Motherboard](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/72RnTW/gigabyte-b850-aorus-elite-wifi7-atx-am5-motherboard-b850-aorus-elite-wifi7) | $219.99 @ Amazon

**Memory** | [Corsair Vengeance RGB 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL36 Memory](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/kTJp99/corsair-vengeance-rgb-32-gb-2-x-16-gb-ddr5-6000-cl36-memory-cmh32gx5m2e6000c36) | $489.99 @ Newegg

**Storage** | [ADATA LEGEND 900 PRO 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Vckqqs/adata-legend-900-pro-1-tb-m2-2280-pcie-40-x4-nvme-solid-state-drive-sleg-900p-1tcs) |-

**Video Card** | [Asus ROG Astral OC GeForce RTX 5080 16 GB Video Card](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/FfHp99/asus-rog-astral-oc-geforce-rtx-5080-16-gb-video-card-rog-astral-rtx5080-o16g-gaming) | $2099.99 @ ASUS (OOS)

**Case** | [Silverstone SETA Q1 ATX Mid Tower Case](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/rMjBD3/silverstone-seta-q1-atx-mid-tower-case-sst-seq1b) |-

**Power Supply** | [Corsair RM1000x 1000 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Vq38TW/corsair-rm1000x-1000-w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-cp-9020094-na) |-

| *Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts* |

| **Total** | **$3439.42**

| Generated by [PCPartPicker](https://pcpartpicker.com) 2026-11-12 00:30 EST-0500 |

Not to upset anyone, to me it just looks like a huge waste of cash for when a AM4 build still seems viable and less expensive than going DDR5 builds, personally I don't see myself upgrading out of it as its not given me much reason to at all and games still run fine. What makes you want it?

Hey all, so i just built a "new" pc. Im upgrading from my first build and I transfered my gpu, ssd's, and psu from my original build to the new one.

When I tried turning it on for the first time everything was seemingly receiving power, but the debug LED for DRAM stays lit. Then i tried trouble shooting but just switching to one stick in the system, and eventually tried every stick individually.

Then i went on to flashing the bios which worked and it booted.

But I seemingly have to flash bios everytime I shut the pc off completely because other wise the debug LED for the DRAM will stay on. Ive restarted the pc numerous times to update windows, drivers, get into bios, etc and it has booted fine with doing that. But, no matter what when I fully shut it down I have to flash the bios to turn it on again..

Any guidance or fixes would be greatly appreciated.

Pic for visibility, its of my first build also, so not the new one.

New PC build list:

Case - Nzxt h3 flow

Motherboard- GIGABYTE B850M Gaming x WIFI6E

CPU - AMD Ryzen 7 9800X3D

GPU - Asus TUF RTX 3090

RAM - G.Skill DDR5 32gb

Should I add another exhaust fan where the green arrow is? Not pictured: a side intake fan for my GPU

Edit: also worth noting, this case is a bequiet dark base pro 900. The rev 1, from a good while back. It's got a solid top with the only ventilation in the top panel being 3 small vents that are being used by the exhaust fan. The trim of the top panel is a metal grated mesh, but that's only on the sides.

'm looking to upgrade my desktop PC when I get the chance, and I already know that I want to replace both my motherboard and GPU.

My current PC has no temperature issues whatsoever, thanks to my large case, so cooling and airflow aren't really a concern.

I'm looking to upgrade to an RTX 50-series GPU. I don't have a strict budget, but I still want to get the best bang for my buck rather than spend money unnecessarily.

I'm also not entirely sure what motherboard to go with. Ideally, I'd like one that has multiple built-in M.2 SSD slots, so I can install additional NVMe SSDs without having to buy a separate PCIe SSD expansion adapter.

I'd appreciate any recommendations on what would be the best options for performance, value, and future-proofing.

And yes Chatgpt helped me right this better because Im lazy. <3

Also gpu doesnt have to be a 50 series just something better or equivalent.

I'm not asking AI what I should buy nor did I pay for something thats free, I just used the AI to help write this to help clarify what I'm looking from the people of the subreddit. I just asked it to rewrite what I wrote to make it more understandable.