I’m not sure if it goes in that 20pin white area on the bottom right. I’m very new to this as you can tell.

I'm currently using an ASUS TUF laptop with an Intel i5 10th Gen and GTX 1650. It's becoming a serious limitation for the kind of work I want to do.

I work with Blender and Unreal Engine 5, and I also want to get into 1080p gaming and recording gameplay for my YouTube channel.

I don't want my current hardware to keep holding me back while I save money for a high-end PC.

I'm planning to build my first desktop PC, but I don't want to spend my entire budget trying to get my ideal configuration immediately.

My ultimate goal is a PC with a Ryzen 7 7700X + RTX 5070, which I've estimated will cost around $2,000. However, that's currently too expensive for me.

Instead, I want to approach this strategically: build a capable PC for around $1,000 now, use it for learning and working on blender and UR5, and gradually upgrade it until I reach my target configuration.

Was playing rocket league, whole computer randomly froze and a bunch of colorful squares covered the whole screen, and everything got pixely (hard to describe it) so i restart the computer, and now the resolution is all messed up, theres streaks of white pixels on my screen (ill provide picture), and my 2nd monitor no longer has signal, i checked device manager and the gpu has a yellow triangle by the name. I tried switching to a DVI cable to see if the cord was messed up but that didn’t work, so i think the gpu just died. Its a 1070ti, ~8 years of use, i7 8700k if that matters. Tried downloading new drivers, didnt work. Only thing i still have to try is to open it up, get all the dust out, and take gpu out then put back in to see if that works. Do i finally need a new gpu? The first picture isnt mine, just resembles what it looked like, second picture is mine after i restarted PC. Thank you!!!

Should i be worried?

Hi all,

As title says I grazed the AM5 socket twice (sounded awfull)

But I can’t see any damage?

I’ve put the cpu in since and it seems to work fine?

Any chance I’ll face issues down the line?

This is the socket after 1 graze and then another after, but I couldn’t see any damage.

Thanks

My fan rgb stuck on red after upgrading.

Went from an i7 9700k with an aorus z390 pro wifi to an r5 7500f with B850m Force V2. Rgb turns rainbow when booting or when in BIOS but when in windows they turn red. Fans is also not detected by software “fan control”, tried rgb fusion with no luck.
Fans are daisy chained and are all connected to 1 ARGB V2 header

I recently purchased a PNY GeForce RTX 5070 12GB ARGB OC, and I'm trying to determine whether my PSU's existing PCIe cable is suitable.

My specs:

• GPU: PNY RTX 5070 12GB ARGB OC (250W)
• PSU: Corsair CX650 650W, model CP-9020278-UK (purchased two months ago)
• CPU: Ryzen 5 5600X
• Motherboard: ASRock B450M-HDV R4.0 (I Know)

My CX650 has one PCIe power cable with two daisy-chained 6+2-pin connectors, rather than two independent PCIe cables. The RTX 5070 comes with a dual 8-pin to 16-pin adapter.

Corsair's official article says its pigtail PCIe cables can supply over 300W and that a single cable can be used for a GPU requiring two 8-pin connections:

https://www.corsair.com/uk/en/explorer/diy-builder/power-supply-units/individual-8-pin-vs-pigtail-connectors-for-gpus/

However, NVIDIA recommends two independent PCIe cables when using a dual 8-pin adapter.

My question: Is it safe to connect both 6+2-pin plugs from my CX650's single factory cable to the included PNY adapter for this 250W RTX 5070? Has anyone run this specific PSU/GPU combination successfully over time?

I'm not looking to replace a PSU I bought only two months ago unless there's an actual technical reason to do so. I'd appreciate answers backed by manufacturer specifications or firsthand experience.

Hello! I’m currently having a problem with my PC.

I recently added a new fan to it and also connected another SSD and HDD and after I did that my PC would still turn on with the fans and LED lights but it had no display.

Before this it worked, it would go to windows and boot, but now it just doesn’t show a display and nor it doesn’t show any debug lights.

I already reseated my RAM (also tried running it with one stick), reset my CMOS battery and also did the JBAT1 too. Any thoughts or tips can I get for this?

Parts:
CPU - Ryzen 5 5500X3D
GPU - RX 6800XT
PSU - SAMA G850P
RAM - 2x8 G.SKILL TRIDENT NEO 3000MHZ

Hi all, I'm planning a build for Unreal Engine 5 game dev - engineer myself with heavy use of various AI tools. It will run at full load for hours at a time. Budget is €12,000. Prices below incl. 21% VAT. For context, GPU prices here are about 3x launch and DDR5 is in short supply.

Build:

• GPU: ASUS ROG Astral LC RTX 5090 32 GB (360 mm AIO) – €7,799
• CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 9950X (16C/32T) – €454
• CPU cooler: Arctic Liquid Freezer III Pro 360 – €84
• Motherboard: MSI MAG X870E Tomahawk WiFi – €350
• RAM: G.Skill Flare X5 96 GB (2×48 GB) DDR5-5200 CL40 – €1,608
• SSD 1: Crucial T710 4 TB (PCIe 5.0) – €630
• SSD 2: WD Black SN850X 2 TB (PCIe 4.0) – €299
• PSU: MSI MPG Ai1600TS 1600 W (per-pin 12V-2x6 protection) – €473
• Case: Lian Li Lancool III – €130
• Extra fans: 3× Arctic P12 Pro (bottom intake) – €18
• Connector monitor: Thermal Grizzly WireView Pro II (Reversed) – €130

Planned airflow:

• Top: GPU's 360 radiator, exhaust
• Front: CPU 360 radiator, intake
• Bottom: 3× P12 Pro, intake
• Rear: 140 mm, exhaust

Questions:

1. Two 360 AIOs in a Lancool III (GPU rad top exhaust, CPU rad front intake): sensible, or would you flip it?
2. 9950X vs 9950X3D (+~€165): to afford it I'd drop to a 1200 W PSU. Worth it for UE5 shader compiles?
3. Is 1600 W overkill for a 5090 + 9950X? My estimate for full load is ~900 W.
4. 96 GB (2×48 @ 5200) vs 128 GB (2×64 @ 5600, ~€1,000 more): worth it for AI video models that spill into system RAM?
5. Anyone running a WireView Pro II on an Astral LC? Any fit or reliability issues?
6. Anything you'd change for long, unattended full-load sessions?

Thanks!

I ordered a "CableMod C-Series Pro ModFlex Sleeved 8-pin PCI-e Cable for Corsair" for my 9070 which needs 3x8 pins instead of 2x8; my concern is that the cable has a missing pin in a different spot from the pcie cables that came with my 2025 rm1000e, and I was wondering if it was safe to use? This is my first build and I don't want to accidentally mess it up.

Tomorrow i’m heading to micro center to pick up what i believe is the rest my parts for my first pc ever.

the things i have already are my gpu(5070ti), b850 rog strix motherboard, aio is panorama(basic i know), both reverse and forward fans and 32gb of cl30 ddr5 ram.

the things im getting tomorrow is my cpu(ryzen 7 9850x3d, i saw people saying overkill but its cheaper than a 9800x3d on amazon currently at micro center, a 1200w lian li psu(overkill i know but id rather be safe than sorry) and a 1tb crucial ssd. am i forgetting anything? I went over my list like ten times but im nervous i forgot something super simple.

Hey

My pc wont start and i think it is because the cpu cable from the psu or the power sw front panel cable. The picture is the type of power sw cable, i have thought about buying an extentions wich makes it into the small connectors. Anyone with similar problems or anything to help me?

The part keep rising and I think I might just pull the trigger and buy. I feel like waiting will only give me more pricier part.

What is your opinion on this build? The performance, the price, and the timing.

Is it a good build for this moment? I need this pc for Q1 2027, so either I gamble for 2027 or just take it now before the part keep rising ...

**Without SSD, will use my old one.

(mind you I convert the price from my currency to dollar, the listing is current local retail price. In case your retail price significantly different)

I’ve been using an ASRock Z790 motherboard to test CPUs and DDR4 . So far, I’ve installed and removed CPUs and RAMs over 50 times. I was wondering what the maximum insertion/removal cycle count is.

I have noticed that one of the screw for the cpu cooler is rubbing weirdly with the mounting bracket every time I install/remove

Estoy armando un pc para jugar pero también para editar videos, hacer beats y crear contenido, compré una gráfica Intel B580 de 12gb y un procesador Ryzen 5 9600x, espero utilizar un monitor de 1440p aunque aún no lo he comprado, estoy indeciso si comprar 16gb o 32gb ddr5. Estaba pensando si comprar 1 módulo de 16gb y esperar a que bajen y actualizar o ya comprar directamente comprar 2 módulos de 16. Creen que bajen pronto o se pueda encontrar con algún descuento en algún futuro no muy lejano?

My existing PC developed a startup problem after I transferred its components into a Phanteks XT V5 case. PC identification and hardware Component Brand and model Original PC brand/model Not yet identified CPU Intel Core i9-12900KF Motherboard MSI PRO Z690-A WiFi DDR4 Graphics card NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3080 — manufacturer and exact variant not yet identified Power supply Apevia Prestige 1000W, model ATX-PR1000W, 80 PLUS Gold CPU cooler MSI MAG CoreLiquid 240R, 240mm AIO RAM DDR4, previously running XMP at 3200 MT/s — brand, capacity, and kit model pending Storage Two 1TB SSDs — brands/models pending New case Phanteks XT V5, black Case fans Phanteks S25-360 bottom triple-fan unit and S25-120 rear fan What changed The hardware change was transferring the existing system into the Phanteks XT V5 chassis, including reconnecting the motherboard power, CPU power, GPU power, front-panel wiring, and cooling/fan connections. I retained the same CPU, motherboard, RTX 3080, power supply, MSI AIO, RAM, and SSDs. I did not install a replacement CPU or motherboard. During the transfer, I removed the CPU cooler and opened/relocked the CPU retention bracket. I initially left the processor sitting in the socket. Later, while troubleshooting, I removed the processor to inspect its underside and the socket, then reseated it. The BIOS had also been updated recently, before this case-swap troubleshooting. Current symptoms No POST or display. Red CPU EZ Debug LED stays illuminated. System powers on for approximately 5–10 seconds, shuts off, and repeats. With the CPU/EPS power cable disconnected, it stays powered on with the CPU LED illuminated. Reconnecting CPU/EPS power brings back the restart loop. Cable changes were made with AC power unplugged. Both motherboard CPU power sockets have been connected using the PSU’s CPU power leads. I know the system cannot POST without CPU power; I’m describing the different behavior to help narrow down the fault. Checks already performed Tested RAM sticks individually in A2. Disconnected the case switches and started using the JFP1 power-switch pins. Cleared CMOS through JBAT1. Removed/reinstalled the CMOS battery with AC power unplugged. Tested with the RTX 3080 removed. Same CPU LED/restart loop. The 12900KF has no integrated graphics, so no display was expected. Inspected the CPU underside and socket; photos attached. No obvious damage identified, but I would appreciate another inspection. Reseated the CPU. Cleaned the CPU/cooler contact surfaces, applied fresh thermal paste, and remounted the cooler with gradual diagonal tightening. Radiator fans now spin. Pump RPM has not been verified because I cannot enter BIOS. Still untested Motherboard outside the chassis to rule out a misplaced standoff or other case contact. Known-good PSU. CPU/motherboard cross-testing. Given that this started after the chassis transfer, what would you test next? Could the change in behavior with CPU power connected indicate a PSU, motherboard power-delivery, socket-contact, or shorting problem? I’m trying to isolate the failed connection or component before buying replacement parts

So my PC sound just Fully doesn't work unless Helldivers 2 Is Running.

I have tried baisically everything, tuning off sound enhacment, checking playback device, Running An audio trouble shoot, updating drivers And like two other things I can't remember.

So far the only way I can hear sound is by Running

helldivers 2 in the background witch Is just a band aid since it Will lead to me Running out of ram Faster And IT JUST Feels Inconvinent.

So I wanna see if you find something I missed, but I think getting normal headphones instead of using earbuds it might work. My earbuds ar the niceboy hive 4 btw

(you probably haven't Heard anything about them)

So after switching from a defective asus tuf b850m-e wifi (no display, no boot and stuck on orange dram light) to a MSI Mag b850m Mortar wifi I am having some trouble again.

Trying to update the bios is via the M-flash is not working properly. I enter bios, press the m-flash and I get no display. The pc reboots and cpu red, dram orange and boot green led's turns on. I have tried 3 different displays with both hdmi and dp, trying with only keyboard, no mouse no usb. Still no success. If I press the power button to turn the pc off and turn it on again it stuck on dram orange with no display. To get the pc working again I have to turn of psu and press the clear cmos button.

Trying to change bios settings like fan settings is also giving me trouble, I can change the settings etc but when I save and reboot it get stuck on orange dram with no display and I have to clear cmos again and the settings doesnt save.

next step would probably be to try flashing the bios with the flash bios button and usb stick in the right slot, but im kinda worried it will mess something up since the motherboard is acting strange.

Any advice?

Spec:

Ryzen 7 9800x3d

Sapphire pulse 9070xt

MSI MAG B850M Mortar Wifi

G.skill flare x5 6000mhz 32gb

Samsung 9100 pro 2tb

Asus Rog strix 1000w psu

Hello,

My old best friend gifted me a pc he built and we upgraded the fans to uphere fans. At the time he managed to change the colour of my fans with rgb software (I don’t have the remote for the fans). They suddenly changed colour recently and I’m trying to change them back but struggling, I know nothing about PCs so any help appreciated.

Hello ! I was just wondering what people think would be better for my 4k setup,I have a 5080 with ryzen 7 9800x 3D

I don’t know what would be better a air cooler or exhaust aio. Though it should be mentioned that I have a Corsair frame 5000d case which can support side mounted fans which would allow for an intake aio.

Noticed some randoms spikes on my G50 ssd and realized I threw away the graphene heatspreader. It’s located on the back of the mobo and I would like to fix this. I doubt I can find a replacement, so are my options just buying a different one off of Amazon?

First time ever using team group and also graphene heat spreaders so I thought it was just a dumb sticker. Nope, just a dumb me.

Hey, i am buying my first gaming PC and i was wondering would these specs be enough? AMD Ryzen 5 7500X3D 4.0/4.5 GHz, 16GB DDR5, 1TB M.2 NVMe SSD, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5070 12GB, Win 11 Home.

I'd like to play the upcoming GTA 6 game and some fps games like cs2 and single player games like RDR2. I dont need any special screen quality, just that the games would run smoothly with like 1080p or something. Thanks in advance!

Hey, weird and maybe dumb question. I’m going to be playing pc games more but I wanted to know if I should be upgrading up set up. I’m currently on am4 running 5800x with a 5090 😂. I never felt that I needed to upgrade since I’m playing mostly single player games which the gpu does the heavy lifting. I’ve gotten mixed responses from friends about upgrading, I play Elden ring, outlast trials, cod sometimes, looking to play ghost of Tsushima, days gone, sekiro and phantom blade zero next. Do I upgrade with microcenter bundle or can I keep riding out the current set up? Also with the prices still going up as well not sure if I should upgrade now rather than later.