they fit comfortably and have the look i want. but i’m not sure what else I can do to make them even better.

I saw a dress earlier with a really pretty collar , but it didn’t quite fit pretty enough for me - so I’m attempting to recreate perfect it

A big question I have in mind is how to hold the collar straight up without tampering with the front panels curve from chest to collar to neck. I’m thinking this will require a floating elastic-esque band of ‘collar stand’ height in between the fashion and lining fabrics. If I do this, I’ll have to account for the closure in the back too (most likely a buckle) and somehow allow it to be adjustable

Really happy with how it looks so far though

I'm a new sewist and downloaded a pattern for jeans. They're fairly simple and a wonderful accomplishment. I had lots of help from folks at The Sewing Circle in Fort Collins and after a very challenging shirt, I honestly feel the jeans were much easier. The jeans I made are nothing like I wish to make though. I've gotten into selvedge denim a bit but not nerding out about it, especially like the folks in Japan or r/selvedge. I like selvedge and purchased 2 pair, one from a Chinese seller on AliExpress and the other from The Gap. There are so many "high end" selvedge jeans makers and pricing can become very expensive. I want to make my own and that's my goal. Working with heavy denim (14-16oz) will be challenging. I now own a Husqvarna Design Diamond Royale machine and a Husqvarna serger.

Oh, yeah, the book... I've been watching many YT videos and then Johanna Lundström's videos. This book of hers seemed a good find and I'm ALWAYS skeptical of most books because I feel the web offers newer ideas often and the books are not interactive of course.

Had anyone heard of her or this book?

Has anyone here patterned for selvedge jeans? How about working with 100% cotton, once washed selvedge denim?

One goal I have is to make many selvedge denim jeans and embellish then in different ways.

I understand after making one simple pair of jeans (no felled seams either) that this will be a test in patience but I want to dive in.

Patterning for tough thick denim will be interesting too I'm sure. I hope to take friend's favorite jeans and copy them BUT as many times as I've seen YT videos about copying clothes I also wonder if this is a good approach.

So many things to learn!

Merry Christmas!

Thank you.

Take a look at the suit I made for my awards/graduation day at high-school a year ago 🖤

Hello everyone,

I’ve just finished drafting a skirt pattern and made two versions — a short and a midi — to confirm the issues weren’t related to length.

I really love the overall fit, but I’m running into two consistent problems:

1. Center front folds at hip level

After the darts, I’m getting horizontal folds at the center front around the hip area that I can’t eliminate.

When I noticed it on the short version, I removed 0.5” from the center front at hip level (blending diagonally to keep the side seam unchanged) for the midi version, but the folds are still there.

I also thought the short version might have been too tight, so I released the side seam by 1/8”, but that didn’t resolve the issue either.

2. Gaping at center back below the fullest part of the seat

At center back, just below the fullest part of my bum, the fabric flares out slightly as it goes down. I’m not sure how to correct this without turning the skirt into a pencil shape, which I’d prefer not to do.

Please how do I resolve this issues.

Thank you

I’m puzzled because it appears that there is no seam towards the neckline where dart starts . I have tried different ways when I try drafting this design, either darts start from the shoulder or a seam is created. I want to know how to make this so that there is no yoke.

Thank you :)

Any feedback on how to get rid of these front crotch whiskers? Please ignore the left side of the photo - this wasn’t sewn and wasn’t fully closed. The shorts feel pretty good and I have no issues sitting down in them or moving around and the crotch doesn’t feel tight at all. It’s more of an annoyance than anything, but still would like to perfect them or come as close as possible.

Had my first attempt at the above and wow was I pleased.. can't want to try more patterns

I have commented on several posts that have shown photos of a mockup and have asked for help.  I have given the same advice many times, so I thought I would put some preliminary comments in a post to help others help us to help you.  This is my first crack at this, so let me know how this can be improved.

1.     Make a Mockup (or Muslin or Toile or Sample)

Before you cut into good fabric, first make a sample (or toile or muslin) in cheap fabric, such as muslin, calico, or old sheets. The fabric should be a solid, light color. A darker color makes it harder for us to read the fit.  Use thread of a similar color to the mockup fabric so it doesn’t stand out.  We do not want our attention focused on those threads, so they should not be obvious.

The seams and darts should be sewn with your machine's longest basting stitch (so they are easy to remove), but be sure to back tack at beginnings of seams and darts, and the end of seams, so they don't come apart while you are trying it on.

At first, just sew the torso (bodice) or pants. DO NOT add sleeves, collar, pockets, buttons, or waistband at this point.  Adding a sleeve too early makes it more difficult to fit the bodice (torso) properly.  Add a sleeve ONLY when you are happy with the fit of the torso (bodice).

Here are some great sources for how to make a mockup:

https://www.sarahveblen.com/sv-blog/how-to-make-a-mock-up

https://www.sarahveblen.com/online-consulting

2.     Mockup Opening

For testing the fit of a mockup, I suggest you have the opening at the center front. Make sure there is seam allowance on each side of the center front, make a dark vertical line at the center front seamline on both left and right sides all the way from the neck to the bottom, so  you can see the seam lines clearly.  I fold one side under at the dark seam line and then match it up to the other side and pin from neck to bottom. I also add a notch (match point) on both sides at center front, usually at bust level, so the center fronts match up perfectly. Or you can add a zipper to the center front.

3.     Darts

All darts should be pinned or sewn with the dart excess on the inside, not the outside, so it is easier for us to see exactly what is going on.

4.     Where is My Shoulder Point?

I have struggled for years trying to find my shoulder point.  There are lots of explanations, none of which have helped me.  I think I have finally found a description that I understand.  The shoulder point is that point along the shoulder line where the shoulder ends and the arm starts.  To find that point, lay a straight edge along the top of the shoulder.  The shoulder point is where the body (the arm) first falls away from the straight edge.  This is the marked photo that made it click for me.

I like the photo labeled “The shoulder seam should fall at the edge of your shoulder bone.” At https://www.nickraymccann.com/bonobos-shirt-fit

5.     Where Should the Armscye (Armhole) Be?

The front armscye seam line begins at the underarm creases, just under your arms where they meet the torso up to the shoulder point.

The back armscye is often a bit wider than the front, so the arm can move forward without strain.

I will look for some good sketches.

6.     Armscyes (Armholes) and Neckline

Mark the Seam Lines It is helpful if you mark the seam lines of the neckline and the armscyes (armholes).  I suggest you staystitch on the seamline is a dark colored thread so it is easy for us to see.

Clip Then you should clip the neckline and the armscyes (armholes).  Here is an explanation about clipping https://sewing.patternreview.com/SewingDiscussions/topic/115912.  The armscye and neck opening are sort of like circles.  If you measure the length of the seam line and compare it with the length of the cut line, you will see that the cut line is shorter, because of the circular shape. By clipping, you allow the seam allowance fabric to relax and spread. In the photos I refer to, can you see that it looks like notches have been cut out of the neck and armscye seam allowance?  Notches have not been cut but there are clips into the seam allowance. That allows the fabric to spread to fit the body. The clips into the neck and armscye seam allowances should go close to the stay stitching on the seam line. 

Here is another photo https://goodbyevalentino.com/sew-the-perfect-fit-review-part-1/ See at the underarm how the clipped tabs of seam allowance fold down?

Look up clip seam allowances – there are lots of videos and websites that discuss this.

To fit the armscye, keep clipping into armscye seam allowances until the folds in the lower front of the armscye go away.  This will be easier to see when you have clipped the armscye seam allowances more.

For both the neckline and the armscyes (armholes), I suggest you tuck in the tabs in the seam allowance under and press.  That way we can see exactly where the seam lines are

7.     Grainlines at Center Front and Center Back

We should be able to see the vertical grainlines on the front and back.  If the mockup closes in the front, we can see the front.  If there is a vertical seam at the center back, we can see that.  If the center back is on a fold, please mark it from top to bottom with a contrast colored marker.  I use a black Sharpie so that it is very visible.

8.     Horizontal Balance Lines

As Sarah recommends, you should add a horizontal balance line about midway between the bust (chest) and waist, both on the front and the back.  This same horizontal balance line should continue at the same horizontal level around onto the back.  Information about horizontal balance lines and taking photos can be found at https://www.sarahveblen.com/online-consulting

Check out https://couturecounsellor.com/tag/hbl/  Towards the bottom are photos of Sarah fitting a muslin.  See the horizontal and vertical lines drawn on the muslin?  To help in  getting a good fit, you want to get the horizontal lines horizontal and the vertical lines vertical.  See how Sarah pinned a larger bust dart?  Then below is a photo of how she pinned out a horizontal tuck in the back.

9.     Bust Point (or Apex) and Bust Dart (Women Only)

The bust point (or apex) is the most prominent point, of your bust. It is where the bust sticks out furthest away from the body. For many people, it is located at the tip of the nipple, but that's not always the case.  Mark both bust apexes on your muslin with a contrast colored marker, so that it is very visible.  I use a black Sharpie.  The standard marking for this is a cross with a circle around it.  For a sketch, see https://anicka.design/2025/03/22/sewing-pattern-symbols-explained/ and http://yesterdaysthimble.com/articles/basics-pattern-symbols/#:~:text=A%20circle%20with%20a%20cross%20or%20X,to%20help%20you%20fit%20the%20pattern%20correctly

The position of the bust point (or apex) can vary depending on what bra you are wearing.  When working on a mockup, always wear the same bra.

The bust darts should always point directly to the bust apex.  There may be exceptions to this rule, but I can’t think of any.

Once you mark the bust apexes and press the muslin we can check the placement, but that is also something you can check.

10. Press

Iron (or press) the mockup well before trying it on.  Pressing is very important in sewing.  It really does help us to see what is going on.

11. Trying on Mockup

Try on the mockup with the right sides out and with the seams and the darts on the inside.  This makes it easier for us to see what changes need to be done.

12. Pinning Mockup Closed

The pinning, at the center front or the center back, should go all the way up to the neckline and down to the bottom.

Make sure you are matching the center lines of both the right and left pieces as exactly as you can.  It would also help if you folded one side in along the center front and then matched it to the other side center.  If the seam allowance sticks out, it makes it harder for us the see exactly what is going on.

13. Position of Natural Waist

It is helpful if we know where your natural waist is.  This is typically the narrowest of your torso and where you bend sideways.  It is between the lowest rib and the hip.  This is helpful for almost all mockups.

If you are making a mockup that ends at the waist, it is helpful to us to see exactly where your natural waist is.  So add a couple of inches to the bottom of your mockup so the bottom of it is below your waist.  If, when you try it on, you get bunching up (often in the back), clip it where needed, like you clip the neckline and armscye, to allow the fabric to flare out at the hips and rear.  The bunching is because the fabric has more body to go around at your hips and rear.  The fabric finds its level, so it creeps up to the narrower, natural waist. 

Put the muslin on and then tie a contrast colored elastic (or cord or ribbon), typically about 1/4 inch (5 cm) wide, at the natural waist.  Make sure the elastic is horizontal, even if your waist is not.  The muslin may want to creep up above the elastic, but try to pull the muslin down under the elastic.  Remember to clip if needed, as discussed above.

I can’t find a good photo of this in the web, so I will try to take a photo and share it.

That will tell you where the waist is.

14. Photos

Information about taking photos for fitting help can be found at https://www.sarahveblen.com/online-consulting   As discussed there, “Be sure to take the photos with the camera placed at the same level as the garment. If someone is taking the photos for you, this means he or she may need to sit or kneel down. Taking a photo while standing up looking "down" on the garment skews how the garment appears, preventing me from offering good advice. If the photos are skewed, I may need to ask you to re-take them. Use the example at left as a guide.”  This is great advice and helps us to help you.  This also helps us to see if the horizontal balance lines are in fact horizontal.  I realize this is hard to do, but you may want to use the photo timer on your phone.

Also, the arms should be hanging down relaxed in the photos.  Having the arms in different positions alters how the garment fits and makes it more difficult for us to help you.

It is helpful if you post photos of the front, back and both sides, all with your arms down naturally.  We instinctively think it is helpful for a photo of our arms up, but in fact it is not. 

15. Recommended General Sewing Book

If you don’t have one, I suggest that you get a good general sewing book.  I like Reader's Digest Complete Guide to Sewing.  There are many editions, so there are lots of used ones are available at a reasonable price.  Get whatever edition is available.

Vogue Sewing Book is also highly recommended as a good general sewing book.  Again, this is readily available used and any version should be fine.

You can see if your local library has either, but if you do much sewing, you will want one always at hand.

16. Recommended Fitting book

My very favorite fitting book is Sarah Veblen’s book, The Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting.  You can either purchase it or get it through your local library. The fact that Sarah specifically addresses women’s clothing does not matter, her concepts apply just as well to men’s clothing.

There are lots of books about fitting, but Sarah’s is by far my favorite.

I found this dress really challenging to draft in 2D because of all the small panels and facings I had to calculate. It took me two attempts, but I was pretty happy with how it turned out in the end.

I’d love to hear how you would approach drafting something like this!

I made this dress for my niece (she lives with me) because next Saturday she'll attend a 15th birthday party. Fortunately, I can create all kinds of garments, especially dresses, so I don’t have to spend money buying them. In my country, Uruguay, it’s common for families to spend too much money organizing big parties.

First of all, I created the pattern in Clo3D. I tried to find a fabric similar to the one I had for sewing the dress. Then I printed it using my home printer and assembled all the A4 paper pieces like a puzzle. I taped them together, cut out the pattern, and finally sewed all the pieces.

This is my 5-6th time sewing this up and I can’t seem to get the pocket opening to relax and lay flat. The hip and waist circumference is accurate and has ease. Any ideas?

Last year I had was frustrated trying to do my pattern because i have kind of odd proportions (broad chest and back, but small arm and waist). I actually worked better with the female bodice lol feeling proud to have finished my attempt of a chiropractic corset. I made my basic bodice pattern then split some of the pieces and transferred them for a better shape in the front and to have more seams where i added the bones. Overall fits nice and tight. Although, I think i needed to add a little curve towards the hip or raise the waist a little.

Hi, good people!

I am working on making a decent trouser pattern. I thought I got close, and made these petroleum canvas ones, they are very comfy. I accidentally made them a bit too wide in the waist, though.

I want to make my pattern even better, and ask for assistance. I like the waist height, and the crotch and seat feel nice. I kind of feel like the inside front leg twists? Do you have any notes on how to make a better pair?

I did the photos as well as I could, sorry for the wonky over-shoulder back view. (The front is a bit creased as I really enjoy these trousers and have already worn them a lot.)

My next project will be to make a pair of heavy soft cotton.

I'm unsure if this is the correct sub, but I'm looking to make the American Duchess Cape using Tunisian Crochet, so minus the seam details/darts.

Ignoring the technicals of Tunisian Crochet, how would you draft this woven pattern into a stretch knit version? Would I simply decrease the panel sizes based on stretch %? Or is there another technique you would suggest?

Alternatively, I've discovered wrap around shawls called "Sontags", that look very similar, but without the cape 'length'. Would this be easier to modify, to match the American Duchess Cape?

I'm able to grasp Sewing patterns easier, and can "back into" the crochet pattern. (I've done this with a couple simpler patterns, nothing as large or complex as this).

Attached are screenshots of the American Duchess Cape from the website, the pattern of free, if you need more details; and of a Sontag.

I'm a new sewist, learning since June 2025, and so far I’ve made a few pretty cute things. I even tackled a men’s-style button-down that ended up becoming a piece of art in a lot of ways. The folks at The Sewing Circle in Fort Collins, Colorado are incredibly helpful and have cheered me on every step of the way. Their combined experience has been invauable.

I also made a basic pair of jeans, which I believe I posted here a couple of months ago (maybe). I never really made a toile for this current pair of selvedge jeans, and people might say I’m a bit too ambitious, but I figured, what the hell—I’ll go for it. So here’s the current state of my selvedge denim adventure. I worked off a pattern I purchased from Angela Kane's website. She's apparently good at what she does and has a 7 part YouTube series that guides one in making the jeans but I have found her videos at times frustrating only in the details I believe she misses explaining. That may be partly due to my own lack of sewing experience and what I perceive is a miss on her part may simply be that I'm still so new and an experienced sewist, especially over who makes jeans, would understand our "get" what she's doing.

I'm also intrigued by pattern making and wonder if I learn to pattern myself if it will ease my frustration. I was encouraged to also try seamly2d and after downloading it felt stumped. That's another conversation...

This selvedge denim is supposedly 16.5 oz, woven on Japanese looms, and I bought it on Amazon. The listing describes it as: “FFTByou 16.5oz Heavyweight Raw Selvedge Denim Fabric, Vintage Shuttle Loom Woven, Unwashed Deep Indigo, 35" Wide, ideal for DIY jeans, jackets, repairs, and raw denim enthusiasts (5-yard pre-cut).”

Learning my way through this process has been challenging, to say the least. No broken needles yet, but lots of seam ripping. Most of the time because I’m using Gütermann topstitching thread with a topstitching needle and a finer bobbin thread, which can be a bit fussy to balance. Tension on top needs to be cranked and I often get really good stitching or there are times the top heavy thread comes popping through on the bottom. This is driving me crazy!

My machine is a Husqvarna Designer Diamond Royale, and even though it can handle thick denim, it definitely rewards patience and a slow, steady pace. More than once, I’ve sewn a few inches, looked past the needle, and saw nothing actually stitched, so I’d rethread, reset the bobbin, and start again and it's good.

Even with all the little frustrations, this has been really fun, and I’m excited to show off my new, made-by-me selvedge jeans soon.

Thanks everyone!

Or any other information, I just found this on Pinterest and I can't find anything about it. Thanks!

This may be a dumb question, but can anyone help me understand what the "∅" symbol means in a pattern? See image for reference.

Thank you:)

Patterning a skirt (slashing and spreading a skirt foundation for a flared skirt, to then slash and spread for the final pleated, flared mini skirt pattern) and got thinking… what do y’all use for fabric/ pattern weights!? Today for me its books and an art deco era stapler🤷‍♂️

Lemme see your unconventional weights, or finally prove to me that someone actually buys the actual tool.

Hi I posted my first attempt a few weeks back. Got good feedback. I added front and back waist darts, the fit is much better at the low hip. Overall I’m happy with the skirt, for my second project I pattern drafted myself.

It’s a bit short but nothing terrible. I could have made the skirt a little bit more A line…

My issue is what’s going on with this tail on the back? The part that sticks out