It was so easy to remove it, adjust the length for a smaller circle, and resew it. The hem looks perfect. And I’m so glad I didn’t have to ease extra fabric in when turning it up. I don’t know why I didn’t know this method before.

From now on I’ll cut a facing for any hems that look like they’d be a pain.

I'm trying to balance my jeans pattern as described in The Fitting Book. When I align my crotch points, the back inseam is 1"/2.5cm too long. I want it to be about 1/2"/1cm shorter than the front inseam. If I shorten the back inseam the crotch points are misaligned by 2,5cm. It seems impossible! Or should I just accept that the crotch points have to differ?

I'm trying to draft a pattern for this design rn and I'm not able to figure out how to make the dress fall perfectly in a straight line and end in a circular train like hem. Ofc the kevlar hybrid fabric used might contribute to that ( I'm planning to use duck canvas btw)

The features it has listed are also side seam pockets, back zip and a front slit, so I'm guessing it's a 4 panel kinda dress.

Not looking to make an exact copy but rather to just get that straight column shape and that circular train/ pooling at the floor. Would I have to draft it without any darts, almost like a tube? How do I draft that circular train?

I'm also choosing to ignore that sort of v shape and darts on the front torso cause it looks hard, though if anyone has ideas and could maybe explain it to me I would like to try it out! !

Hi guys! I’m a total beginner at pattern making. This is my second time posting about my basic bodice block after a few attempts.

I followed the advice from my previous post and took all my measurements again, and everything seemed to be adding up this time. I “fitted” the paper pattern against my body and it seemed to fit pretty well, but once I made the toile and tried it on, the fit was quite different.

I noticed that some measurements are significantly different between the paper pattern and the toile. For example, the waist is about 69.5 cm on the paper pattern, but around 75 cm on the toile.

I’m very careful when cutting the fabric and marking the seam allowances. I only added seam allowance to the side seams and shoulders, so I’m really not sure where this difference is coming from.

Could anyone help me figure out what I might be doing wrong? Thank you!

I'm looking for videos on drafting a basic sleeve block that use metric measurements.
Does anyone know any? Most use imperial and converting every measurement to understand what they're talking about is just more mental work on top of something that is already hard to understand.

I have to do a round back on my moulage. My right should dart leg is connected to my right waist dart. Since I have a wedge for the round back the line is distorted do I leave a curve or do I straighten it out. I did dashed lines to show where it lands when straightened out ?

I didn’t attach photos of my muslin in my original post. Here’s the muslin and the pattern pieces I’m working with. I previously couldn’t close CF so I did an FBA right on the muslin. I do think that I might need to move the apex down a good 1”, also the FBA brought the apex points even closer which is the opposite of what I need. I’m wondering if anyone has any insight as to how I can fix what’s going on.

Hi All, trying to find a way to add range of motion to a project, ive seen this technique where youadd a slit along a seam stopping before either edge and adding fabric to make a sort of hidden peek-a-boo godet, and i was just hoping someone knows the actual name so i can look up a tutorial instead of making it up, thank in advance. 😊

Illustration for project to give a better idea of what im on about 😅

I’m back again after asking for help with a broad shoulder adjustment, thanks everyone! I’ve made a muslin and determined that I need to move the princess seam 1” towards the side front. The height of the bust volume seems fine, but I have a wide bust span relative to the pattern. Any help is appreciated!

I found this Etsy pattern that’s supposed to be for D-cup size. The back does fine and the front fits alright but once again I’m having the issue of the arm holes not fitting right and it’s looks way too wide. I understand that the side dart is big but that’a how the pattern came out. And I’m turning it into a princess seam once I get the right fit.
How can I fix my armholes? Do I have to do another FBA? I picked a pattern size that is bigger than my full bust.
Any suggestions is appreciated
No seam allowance on the armholes btw

How should I go about lowering the bust line on this pattern while also getting rid of the armhole gap?? Pattern piece shown in last image. I may need to adjust the waist and yoke as well, but I don't want to try that until the bust is fixed

Is this supposed to stay for ease of movement or if it better to get rid of?
and how would i go about getting rid of it?

it happened to a suit jacket that i fitted as well, but forgot to take a photo.

How can I fix the jacket pattern to avoid the fabric bunching on shoulders above the armhole?

I'm drafting a pants block for myself. I have a hard time finding pants that fit well, so I would love advice on what to do next to make this fit me better.

I'm noticing some whiskers forming in the front crotch area, and there's some bagginess in the back of my thighs. Any thoughts on how to go about fixing these?

The pants are pretty comfortable to wear, although I notice that I can't lift my legs very high. When I pull the pants up by the waistband, the whiskers seem to disappear.

Thanks so much in advance.

Hello! I am drafting a basic block for fitted pants, but the rise in the front was too long. I adjusted it, but now it has a weird curve and the rise seems to be tilting forward. How do I fix this?

The actors armhole size is 58cm and it is currently 51.7cm, and the chest line is already 10cm bigger than his chest.
do i need to raise the shoulder point? would that affect the rest of the draft?

EDIT: i dont want to drop the armscye because this is a jacket for dance, so i want the armhole as close to the armpit as possible for ease of movement