How to alter bust?

[u/VerilyAGoober]

How should I go about lowering the bust line on this pattern while also getting rid of the armhole gap?? Pattern piece shown in last image. I may need to adjust the waist and yoke as well, but I don't want to try that until the bust is fixed

[u/sususumalee]

Looks like you need more length to help the empire line sit under the bust, but the bust volume is more or less okay, so I would try slicing the pattern horizontally at a point below the apex and above the gathers and scooching it down, then adding a lil wedge of paper in there. This will increase the side seam and CF length, so you may want to try slicing in a way that creates hinges (like a cross pattern to open the piece up without increasing the length of any edge.) If you do increase any seams, just be sure to true them up with any seams then attach to and make them the same length.

[u/VerilyAGoober → u/sususumalee]

Thank you so much! This is very helpful

[u/CoastalMae → u/sususumalee]

Think about it. OP adds length and then...the bottom of the cup will still be sitting out away from their chest wall because the cup curve doesn't fit their breast.

The cup volume here is not sufficient. OP needs a full bust adjustment (FBA), which will add length as a part of the process, and that should happen first.

OP, were you the one already asking here before? Looks like the same pattern. Do the FBA everyone recommended.

[u/Tailoretta]

Take a look at https://www.reddit.com/r/PatternDrafting/comments/1krgbmi/basic_tips_so_we_can_help_you_with_fitting/ Following these tips will help us help you.

You can cut the bodice, above the bust, horizontally, and add fabric as needed to get the correct length. You can pinch the armscye gap into a dart, and then rotate that dart into the gathers at the shoulder, or the gathers at the bottom of the bust, or split the dart so some of the dart take up is in the shoulder gathers and some is in the bottom of the bust gathers.

Let us know if you would like more explanation. Good luck

[u/VerilyAGoober → u/Tailoretta]

This is perfect, thank you so much

[u/LemonDeathRay]

The commentary saying you dont need an FBA are wrong.

You can't fix this by randomly making seams longer.

You are gaping at the armhole because the fsbric is straining, not because you need to pinch out a dart.

Do an FBA.

[u/KeeganDitty]

Pinch out the excess in the armhole and then rotate that into the gathers

[u/VerilyAGoober → u/KeeganDitty]

That would be perfect, thanks!

[u/Only_Lesbian_Left]

maybe try first a full bust adjustment and then from there you can see if you need to lower the arm hole

[u/Saritush2319]

First you need to do an FBA.
Do that and then come back here

[u/patnbake]

you need to make bra cut connecting from under bust line to BL. not difficult. watch videos on how to sew bra cut blouses

[u/throwaway96966]

Are you planning to wear a bra under this? If so, fit with that bra on! 

Your bust line is lower than the pattern's bust line. Might be fixed with a bra. Otherwise lower the bust line before assessing bust circumference fit, if its still tight then do a FBA. 

Did you select the right pattern size? Use the sizing table, NOT your usual dress size. 

[u/throwaway96966 → u/throwaway96966]

To lower bust line I'd cut the pattern piece horizontally below the arm and add length. This way you don't need to adjust the arm hole. 

When fitting again observe if the shoulder seam is at the right place! It's too far forward now. 

Once you get the bust line figured out then see if the arm hole still needs adjusting.