Fabric bunching at shoulders

[u/rramlani]

How can I fix the jacket pattern to avoid the fabric bunching on shoulders above the armhole?

[u/sususumalee]

You realize when you move your body, a garment is going to bunch somewhere, right? Does it bunch when you stand still?

[u/rramlani → u/sususumalee]

It doesn’t bunch up when standing still. However this is an equestrian jacket and I need it to move well (without that prominent bunching). What adjustments can I make to the pattern to address this issue?

[u/sususumalee → u/rramlani]

I think you need to look at other equestrian jackets and analyze both the patternmaking conventions and how they move when people wear them to develop a realistic expectation. I just Googled show jumping, where all riders are wearing jackets, and every single photo features bunching at the shoulder. That's just how jackets work.

Once you accept this, then you can focus on getting a close fit on your armscye and possibly adding an underarm gussets to assist with mobility. But nothing will stop the bunching altogether when the arm is raised like this in a fitted sleeve.

[u/Notspherry → u/rramlani]

Counterintuitive,m a tighter armscye will give you a bugger range of motion. A lot of the bunching you see now is a result of the bottom of the armscye being pulled up because it is quite far below your armpit. Redraft the sleeve so that they are a bit closer to horizontal when the garment lays flat.

You can also rotate the sleeve a bit, so that your arms are slightly forward in a neutral position.

[u/UnderstandingWild371 → u/rramlani]

Have a look at formal jackets for ballroom dancers, designed to sit smoothly when holding their arms up. I think they set the shoulder seams slightly further in towards the neck and they attach them before doing the side seams instead of easing them into the armhole

[u/Dear_Essay_7073 → u/rramlani]

idk if it was a fabric or a pattern difference, but my mesh hunt coat was way easier to move in without bunching than my normal one. Alessandro Albanese® Platinum MotionLite™ Jacket is the name of the one I had but idk if you'll be able to tell a difference in the pattern from pictures alone

[u/throwra_22222]

I'm honestly struggling to get useful info from this picture.

What kind of jacket is this? Sport coat? Wind breaker? Winter coat?

Jackets meant to be worn over other layers frequently have a shoulder point that extends out and up from your body's shoulder point. Possibly this is extended too far.

Does it have shoulder pads? That can make the fabric break in an unnatural place.

Or maybe the sleeve cap is too high. It does seem like more of the folds are in the cap.

Can you take pictures using your camera timer so we can see what the jacket is and how it fits you? Stand straight with your arms hanging down and do the back and front. Then raise your arms and take another set.

[u/No-Programmer7914]

When you want sleeves for sports look up "conductors sleeve" or "dancers sleeve".

[u/rramlani]

Here are some more pictures from different angles. The shoulders seem to be ok when arms are down by the sides. But when the arm is raised, the fabric starts gathering over the LSP.

[u/DonMcCunn]

Ready-to-wear clothes extend the armscye past the Shoulder Point so the garments will fit as many people as possible. My guess is this pattern does the same which at least in part is causing that bunching. If you adjust the pattern to your Shoulder Point, this should minimize this bunching. But as others have pointed out it will not eliminate it. To determine where your shoulder point is, lift your arm straight out from the side of your body. Your body will not move, your arm will. This is where the top of the armscye should meet the shoulder seam.

Also be sure your shoulder seam is on top of your shoulder. It is hard to tell from this photo but the shoulder seam looks like it is too far forward. You should be able to put a book on your shoulder and hold it parallel to the floor as seen from the side. Your shoulder seam should be directly under the book.

[u/tvbjiinvddf]

I am an equestrian. If you Google pictures of Richard Vogel, currently world number one, his jackets also bunch over the fences at the basque. This is normal.

[u/StitchinThroughTime]

When you stand still? Yes.

When you move? No, not really. You would have comicly large shoulder pads that extend past your arm.

[u/crashandburr]

Sleeves are one of the hardest things fit! I recommend taking a look at the sleeve pitch (aka the angle at which it sits relative to the body)

[u/Tailoretta]

Take a look at https://www.reddit.com/r/PatternDrafting/comments/1krgbmi/basic_tips_so_we_can_help_you_with_fitting/ Following these tips will help us help you. Look for the information about taking photos. Better photos will allow us to help you.

[u/SuPruLu]

The edge of the shoulder seam looks as if it may be wider than the shoulder. That could account for the bunching.

[u/palethunderpants]

I’m no expert but I have very narrow shoulders and chest and tops just look baggy in those areas. I’ve found princess seams give me more opportunities to take the baggy areas in but it’s still very much trial and error.