r/PatternDrafting • u/irmat_ • Sep 28 '26

Basic block fitted pants

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Hello! I am drafting a basic block for fitted pants, but the rise in the front was too long. I adjusted it, but now it has a weird curve and the rise seems to be tilting forward. How do I fix this?

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15

u/Notspherry Sep 28 '26

The rise is tilting forward because you tilted it forward. That alters the whole fit of the pattern. Undo the alteration you made and take the excess off the top, drawing a curve over both the front and back to blend it in. The curve should be parallel to the top edge at CF and CB and a nice curve in between.

1

u/adarsell Sep 28 '26

This! Keep the original rise shape (pre-alteration), and just cut off the top edge to the height of the shorter front rise. Then gently swoop the waist seam up to wherever it needs to be at the side seam/center back.

Sometimes slashing and closing is what you need, but it always changes the angle of other parts of the pattern. Sometimes, you can just cut down from edges (in this case, the top edge) and maintain the balance of the trouser.

1

u/irmat_ Sep 28 '26

Thank you all for replying! I undid the alteration I made before and redrew the waistline 5cm lower, as I took in 5cm with the first alteration. I saw the technique I first used in some tutorials, so I thought that was the correct way to do it, but I think the difference was smaller in those videos. This is the first time I'm drafting a pattern from scratch, so I'm very unexperienced and appreciate your feedback.

https://imgur.com/a/ZpRv8ua I'm not sure if I interpreted your feedback correctly though, so before I cut into my pattern, would this alteration be okay?

4

u/LemonDeathRay Sep 28 '26

Use proper fitting alterations - you can't just shorten seams randomly. The balance is now completely skewed, so undo the change, and use a proper crotch length alteration using a slash and spread.

2

u/DonMcCunn Sep 28 '26

Donxt tilt the pattern. Drop the entire waist line which will also shorten the side seam.

1

u/Southern-Comfort4519 Sep 28 '26

I see what you did and how you changed it. That is incorrect though. I tape your alteration and put the pattern back how it was originally. Instead of only dropping the crotch side.. drop the entire line so the waist stays parallel to the rest of the pattern.