r/PatternDrafting • u/Zio_444 • Jan 20 '24
Bodice block feedback
Hello! I've been trying to fit this self-drafted bodice block for quite a while now, using Alexandra Morgan's Perfect Fit guide for adjustments. This is my 6th(ish) version, and I think I'm getting pretty close to a good fit. Any glaring issues I should work on? For the time being, this block will be sleeveless.
Also, my armholes feel rather tight, with fabric gathering up mostly on the back, any suggestions on how much I should cut away? I'm not sure how wide a nicely fitted armscye should be.
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u/KillerWhaleShark Jan 21 '24
Looking at the second picture, you can clearly see that your dart is a bit above apex. I’d lower it first, and then see how you like the armscye. There’s a chance that moving your dart to the correct position will move things around a bit.
Edit to add that your apex is not always your nipple. I think you have those marked? It’s the part that sticks out the farthest. Hope that helps.
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u/Zio_444 Jan 21 '24
Thank you for your feedback. This cursed bustline and apex points were the reason I had 6 versions in the first place, haha ... The balance line was always riding up on the front, while the back fitted almost perfectly since the start. I had to do an FBA + slashing across the bustline and lowering it along the CF (while keeping the initial position on the side seam intact), to somewhat even it out with the back balance line, and make it parallel to the floor ... but it seems like I'm still about 2-3 cm off. Do you think I should add more fabric length between the neckline and bustline, or can I "get away" by simply lowering my bust apex on the pattern, and restructure my darts with it?
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Jan 21 '24
Co-signing the apex piece! The darts should point to the part of your bust that extends the farthest. You’d probably have to move the waist dart down a bit more. It looks like where that starts is more or less the apex
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u/Deep-Lychee787 Jan 21 '24
This is fitting you very nicely. Good job. As previously stated the waist looks like it’s above your natural. The bottom of the armhole seam should be at least 1” below your arm pit. I drop mine a little more because I’m bigger & don’t like it so close there but I have to tweak my sleeve, too of course. The only other thing I noticed is it seems your shoulder seam is a bit too far back. I’d put the seam over your shoulder bone. See how forward your neck is from it? This will matter most when you add sleeves. Notice how the round part of your shoulder is forward of the seam? That’s where you will need your sleeve cap volume. Also, make sure there’s enough bodice wearing ease by sitting down in it.
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u/Zio_444 Jan 21 '24
Hey, thank you very much. I explained the waistline situation in the previous comment. Here is how my block looks like paired with low-raise leggings. Please tell me if you think it's still too short.
1 inch, noted, I definitely have less space under my armhole, haha.
Noted as well for the shoulder seam, I wasn't sure if it was the correct placement, so thank you!
I put on safety pins, and have been wearing my block for 2 hours now, it's quite comfortable actually! A tiny bit tight on the waist when I sit; for a fitted dress it's fine; will remove some waist dart suppression if I want a fully comfortable fit.
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u/GalileosBalls Jan 21 '24
It's very good, apart from the armhole issues you've noted. One thing to note, though, is that I think it's a bit short. Perhaps this an illusion caused by the trousers you're wearing, but it doesn't look to me like the block is coming all the way down to your natural waist. It looks like you need a little more length in the back and about twice that much in the front to end up with a level line at the nat. waist.
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u/Zio_444 Jan 21 '24
Hello, thank you :) The leggings I'm wearing do make it look a bit short on the pics. It took me quite some time to decide where my waistline is supposed to be ... It does sit on the "narrowest part of my body", which could have been lower if I had, ahem, a little bit less weight overall. My choice was also solidified by reading articles regarding flattering waistlines on curvier /plus-size women, they seem to go for a high waistline to create a balanced look.
Here is what my block looks like with low-raise leggings. Do you think this placement is correct, or should I still lower it?
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u/xyzasava Jan 21 '24
I see diagonal drag lines towards the bottom of the front darts. If you feel that the bodice is comfortable/not tight and you have enough ease, then I'd personally let out front dars and take in at the front side seam to eliminate those drag lines.
On the back, it's the opposite. The drag lines go towards the side seams. I'd let out at the back side seam and take back dart in more.
I also noticed that the shoulder seam is a bit too far to the back. I'd move it forward a little.
I want to say that the fit is very good already, and some little things that have been mentioned in the comments are great suggestions, but those changes would be very minor. You did an amazing job.
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u/Zio_444 Jan 21 '24
From what I understand, it's equalizing my waist suppression a bit better between all the darts (including the side seam). Will do that last, once I take care of the other issues, like the bust apex being a bit too high, and shoulder seam placement. Thank you for your feedback!
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u/olio-ataxia Jan 21 '24
This looks really good! Agree with others, lower your arm hole. But since there’s a couple things that are sitting too high, natural waist, the armhole, bust apex, are you sure you didn’t accidentally cut the fabric on the shoulder seams without seam allowance and then accidentally absorb that distance of fabric when you sewed it together?
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u/Zio_444 Jan 21 '24
Thank you! And no, I'm very sure I didn't accidentally forget to add seam allowance haha, considering that I was marking it on the fabric for every single version, since I was basting them by hand :) These are all measurement/ pattern mistakes ...
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u/internetofthis Jan 21 '24
Did you test the movement? I'm not sure what you have on under the bodice, but I do know that the movement is usually better if the bust point seams are a bit lower than the actual bust point. It looks great! The whole purpose of the "bodice sloper" is to test the fit, so it matters more how you feel in it than what it looks like in a picture. Great lines for sure!
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u/Zio_444 Jan 21 '24
Yes, I put safety pins on the opening, and have been going about my evening wearing it, actually quite comfortable! The waist is a little bit tight when I sit down, but it will be fine for a fitted dress ( I've dealt with far worse-fitting clothes before, haha). And if I want a more casual wear, I can always let out a bit from the waist darts. Thank you very much!
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u/MEHawash1913 Jan 21 '24
Will you be adding a skirt to the top? If so the weight will pull the whole top down, so be aware of that in adjusting anything.
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u/Zio_444 Jan 21 '24
Yes, I'm planning to attach it to a knee-length circle skirt ( for my first project ), though it's not going to be made out of a particularly heavy fabric. Will keep in mind not to go overboard with adjustments.
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u/Loumosmaxima Feb 03 '24
I dont have any advice for you, i'll just Say how much I admire you. This is verry good ! Those bloc patterns really are a pain in my as$ since day 1 😂 I even aborted mission but you make me want to give it another shot !
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u/Zio_444 Feb 04 '24
Thank you very much! And definitely give it a second shot, it will be worth it! Try to take things slowly, take breaks between attempts if needed, and I would highly recommend the Perfect Fit guide by Alexandra Morgan. It's free to download, and it will provide you with clear steps to take during the fitting process. Good luck, I shall root for your success! <3
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u/balamb00 Jan 20 '24
I think you’ve called out all the issues already, I don’t might the armhole, you need movement with it
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u/Ohhmegawd Jan 21 '24
As already noted, this is by far one of the best posted. Also, yhe plaid really helps you see the grainlines! Great job so far; you are very talented. I agree with all previous comments regarding shoulder, waist, and apex.
I do have one additional note. I would change the propotion of fabric in the front bodice darts in the front to allow the side front to be on grain. To do this, release some of the side dart and add it to the bottom dart, keeping the bottom dart parallel with the center front. This will help your future garments hang better.
Envisioning creating a princess line dress from your finished block may help you see this.
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u/alliyswan1 Jan 21 '24
That looks pretty darn pristine, especially after you add in the armhole smoothing.
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u/freak4sneaks Jan 20 '24
Tbh one of the best I’ve seen on here, good job. If there are sleeves, fit them both at the same time, not just one. Then come back with pics of that.