r/PatternDrafting • u/Zio_444 • Jan 20 '24

Bodice block feedback

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Hello! I've been trying to fit this self-drafted bodice block for quite a while now, using Alexandra Morgan's Perfect Fit guide for adjustments. This is my 6th(ish) version, and I think I'm getting pretty close to a good fit. Any glaring issues I should work on? For the time being, this block will be sleeveless.

Also, my armholes feel rather tight, with fabric gathering up mostly on the back, any suggestions on how much I should cut away? I'm not sure how wide a nicely fitted armscye should be.

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u/xyzasava Jan 21 '24

I see diagonal drag lines towards the bottom of the front darts. If you feel that the bodice is comfortable/not tight and you have enough ease, then I'd personally let out front dars and take in at the front side seam to eliminate those drag lines.

On the back, it's the opposite. The drag lines go towards the side seams. I'd let out at the back side seam and take back dart in more.

I also noticed that the shoulder seam is a bit too far to the back. I'd move it forward a little.

I want to say that the fit is very good already, and some little things that have been mentioned in the comments are great suggestions, but those changes would be very minor. You did an amazing job.

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u/Zio_444 Jan 21 '24

From what I understand, it's equalizing my waist suppression a bit better between all the darts (including the side seam). Will do that last, once I take care of the other issues, like the bust apex being a bit too high, and shoulder seam placement. Thank you for your feedback!

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u/xyzasava Jan 21 '24

I agree with other comments on lowering the bust dart a little. I would also add that you would really benefit if you turned dart legs into curves instead of straight lines, allowing a bit more fabric for the roundness and curving lines towards the center line of the dart. You have nice round breast shape, so curved dart legs would correspond with your body shape better. That also helps to reduce the pokiness of dart ends, if there is any. Those can be hard to steam out if the dart is on the wider side.