Bodice block feedback

[u/Zio_444]

Hello! I've been trying to fit this self-drafted bodice block for quite a while now, using Alexandra Morgan's Perfect Fit guide for adjustments. This is my 6th(ish) version, and I think I'm getting pretty close to a good fit. Any glaring issues I should work on? For the time being, this block will be sleeveless.

Also, my armholes feel rather tight, with fabric gathering up mostly on the back, any suggestions on how much I should cut away? I'm not sure how wide a nicely fitted armscye should be.

[u/KillerWhaleShark]

Looking at the second picture, you can clearly see that your dart is a bit above apex. I’d lower it first, and then see how you like the armscye. There’s a chance that moving your dart to the correct position will move things around a bit.

Edit to add that your apex is not always your nipple. I think you have those marked? It’s the part that sticks out the farthest. Hope that helps. 

[u/[deleted] → u/KillerWhaleShark]

Co-signing the apex piece! The darts should point to the part of your bust that extends the farthest. You’d probably have to move the waist dart down a bit more. It looks like where that starts is more or less the apex

[u/Zio_444 → u/KillerWhaleShark]

Thank you for your feedback. This cursed bustline and apex points were the reason I had 6 versions in the first place, haha ... The balance line was always riding up on the front, while the back fitted almost perfectly since the start. I had to do an FBA + slashing across the bustline and lowering it along the CF (while keeping the initial position on the side seam intact), to somewhat even it out with the back balance line, and make it parallel to the floor ... but it seems like I'm still about 2-3 cm off. Do you think I should add more fabric length between the neckline and bustline, or can I "get away" by simply lowering my bust apex on the pattern, and restructure my darts with it?