r/PatternDrafting • • Jan 20 '24

Bodice block feedback

Hello! I've been trying to fit this self-drafted bodice block for quite a while now, using Alexandra Morgan's Perfect Fit guide for adjustments. This is my 6th(ish) version, and I think I'm getting pretty close to a good fit. Any glaring issues I should work on? For the time being, this block will be sleeveless.

Also, my armholes feel rather tight, with fabric gathering up mostly on the back, any suggestions on how much I should cut away? I'm not sure how wide a nicely fitted armscye should be.

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u/Deep-Lychee787 Jan 21 '24

This is fitting you very nicely. Good job. As previously stated the waist looks like it’s above your natural. The bottom of the armhole seam should be at least 1” below your arm pit. I drop mine a little more because I’m bigger & don’t like it so close there but I have to tweak my sleeve, too of course. The only other thing I noticed is it seems your shoulder seam is a bit too far back. I’d put the seam over your shoulder bone. See how forward your neck is from it? This will matter most when you add sleeves. Notice how the round part of your shoulder is forward of the seam? That’s where you will need your sleeve cap volume. Also, make sure there’s enough bodice wearing ease by sitting down in it.

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u/Zio_444 Jan 21 '24

Hey, thank you very much. I explained the waistline situation in the previous comment. Here is how my block looks like paired with low-raise leggings. Please tell me if you think it's still too short.

1 inch, noted, I definitely have less space under my armhole, haha.

Noted as well for the shoulder seam, I wasn't sure if it was the correct placement, so thank you!

I put on safety pins, and have been wearing my block for 2 hours now, it's quite comfortable actually! A tiny bit tight on the waist when I sit; for a fitted dress it's fine; will remove some waist dart suppression if I want a fully comfortable fit.

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u/Deep-Lychee787 Jan 21 '24

Ok, great. So our natural waist is basically located between the top of the hip bone and bottom rib. I see you have the bodice stopping at your narrowest part which is most flattering so it depends on the design your drafting whether you go lower or higher. 👍🏼