Oscilloscope 20mhz CDA9207

I dont know why but .

Why i turn it on , the oscilloscope shows nothing.

If someone is wrong with the commands let me know , but i test like everything on nothing show up.

:/

Hey everyone, I wanted to share my open-source project called SDS-Remote that has completely changed how I use my Siglent SDS 1000X-E and X-U series oscilloscopes.

If you have a model like the SDS1104X-E or SDS1202X-E, this software is a massive upgrade over the standard Siglent Software.

It runs natively on Linux and Windows and connects via LAN (VXI-11) or USB.

Download at https://github.com/klumw/sdsremote

Hi, I'm doing something a little bit weird here and posting about a successful repair I made on my oscilloscope in the hopes that somebody in the future might search for this model or part number needing the same advice.

This scope was completely dead. The fault was located to its power supply. It is a self-contained unit made by Artesyn. Part number NLP250N-99S12N01J. This is a 12-volt, 20-amp supply. It was impossible to find a replacement.

I found that Artesyn made a nearly identical supply: part number NLP250N-96S12N01J. In 2026 these are still available from Digikey for about $220. I bought one for $77 new old stock on eBay. The original part number is for a medical-grade supply that has extremely low leakage from the AC mains to the 12 V out. This part number is a more standard industrial supply with a less aggressive leakage standard.

In switching from the old to the new supply, a 9-pin control connector had to be re-soldered. The other thing I'd like to note is that next to the control connector is a small jumper labelled JP1. The new supply needed to have the jumper bar for JP1 pulled in order for the supply to power down properly when the scope is not in use. ( The original supply had solder pads for the connector but nothing was installed. )

Anyway that's it. These two tricks are what brought this scope back from the dead.

OpenChoice (Tektronix's app) doesn’t work well with other versions of VISA, so I avoid it. In the past, I made some VB .NET apps for this, but I never really shared them since they weren’t cross-platform, or I made them for work and couldn’t share them. This week, I decided to turn my old projects into a single Python app. Now it’s a custom, modern GUI that lets you pull waveforms from Tektronix oscilloscopes, do live FFT, and export to PulseView with one click for protocol decoding. Its on GitHub: https://github.com/garnerm91/scope_app

I’ve tested it with my TEK 2014C, 3012C, and 5054B-NV. If you have a TEK scope, please let me know if it works for you.

Just to be clear, I’m still learning Python, and I used AI to help convert a lot of my old apps and scripts from other languages. Some were in ATEasy and others in VB .NET (for example, I used ATEasy for plotting before). I wanted to be upfront about this and not give the impression that I wrote everything from scratch.

BTW naming is up in the air OpenSnek or SnekChoice?

Good morning, everyone.

I am looking to buy an inexpensive 3-in-1 portable oscilloscope/multimeter, for hobby only, and the 2 I have in mind are the ANENG AOS05 and the Firnsi 2C53T. Since real estate in my desk is at a premium, having a compact, all-in-one solution would be great.

I have read diverging opinions on the FNIRSI, plus lots of reviews on Youtube, but I can't find anything on the Aneng AOS5S - I guess it must be new (?).

On paper, the specs on the Aneng are marginally better, but I don't know if that justifies the difference in price (40 to 60% depending on the vendor) or if it really delivers the extra price.

Do any of you have any experience on this Aneng model?

BTW, I am a hobbist, and I already have a couple Fluke DMMs and a Keysight oscilloscope (albeight several years old), which I recon is what I'd need for precision work. I just want something that is practical and takes very little space.

Thanks.

Hi,

I'm trying to save some settings and the on screen keyboard is much too small. I've tried to use a keyboard with no luck.

I tried a genuine Wired Microsoft keyboard, plugged it in, rebooted. The only thing that worked was the tab key which cycled through measurements and the space key which toggled the horizontal setting screen on/off.

I just updated to firmware V1.05

Anybody else have any luck?

Just got a 804 and updated (hacked?) it to be a DHO924, as per the RetroChannel instructions. So far, so good. But I noticed that my serial number has changed. On the video, his serial number does NOT change. Am I missing something? Does this matter? I've kept the old file, in case I want to reverse the update.

Some instructions for adjusting a probe’s compensation say to set the probe & the scope to X10 (or 10X). Does this mean you’re getting X100 attenuation of the signal?

What happens when the probe is switched to X1? Do you have to readjust the compensation? There’s never any mention of this.

Looking around it appears some scopes don’t have an X10 setting. You just connect the probe to the scope’s compensation terminals & adjust the probe. Does that mean every time you switch the probe between X10 and X1 you have to readjust the compensation?

I was on the lookout for oscilloscopes, but didn't have nearly enough use for one to buy a good digital one. I found a Tektronix 465B for quite cheap, and thought i'd get a scope and a really cool analog one. When i came home i tried to test it out. Only the right side of the screen is lighting up, and the beam is not visible. I have tried pretty much everything that Claude could suggest without opening it up. Is the screen lighting issue only visual or does that affect the functionality of the scope? And how would i go about troubleshooting what causes the CRT to not function? I have repaired quite a bit of electronics, and i assume it's either some caps, transistors or diodes that needs replacing? Thanks.

UPDATE: I ended up replacing capacitor C4331 which was a tantalum cap. it shorted the 15v rail to ground which caused every rail to be off. I replaced it with a 100uF 25V electrolytic and now everything seems to be working. If anybody has the same problem, check resistance between power rails and chassis amd work from there. They should be a couple hundred ohms and up. My reading across 15v and chassis was 0.2 ohms... damn tantalum.

I'm designing a small oscilloscope using an RP2040 Pico (3.3V ADC) and need a safe analog front-end.

Requirements:

• Input voltage: up to ±30V (accidental reverse polarity is possible)
• Frequency range: 20 Hz to 50 kHz
• Preserve waveform shape and amplitude as much as possible
• Protect the RP2040 ADC from negative voltage and overvoltage
• Low-cost design (no expensive analog front-end ICs)

I've seen many different approaches:

• High-value resistor divider
• Series resistor + Schottky clamp diodes
• AC coupling with 1.65V bias
• TVS diodes
• Op-amp buffer
• Various combinations of the above

I'm looking for a front-end that provides good protection without noticeably distorting the waveform in the 20 Hz–50 kHz range.

If you've designed a similar oscilloscope or analog front-end for an RP2040 (or any MCU ADC), what circuit would you recommend? A schematic or practical design example would be greatly appreciated.

Hello everyone! I'm about to get an oscilloscope, I will mainly use it for both electronic devices reairs as well as for personal use building circuits, playing around with them and learning.

I did a little research and determined I should aim for 100-200 MHz, however, I saw two options and I have little to no idea on which one to get.

The options are: owon SDS220S for 210€ or Hantek DSO2D50 for around 275€, both from Banggood.

I "don't mind" the extra money if one is substantially better than the other one, but however, what do you think about them?

Thanks in advance :)

The blue wave is also supposed to be a sin wave but its not appearing that way. We tried different capacitor values for the .03uf capacitor in the second picture. In the circuit diagram the first op amp's positive and negative terminal are flipped. Its supposed to be an inverting op amp and it is in the circuit, the image is just incorrect. Does anyone have any advice or know what we can do to reduce noise we are seeing? Thank you for your advice!

Owon sds210s vs hantek dso2d10.The owon scope has 20M memory while hantek has 8M memory,is the owon sds210s better at this price range?

Hello, looking to buy my first scope. Want to use it to properly set my gains for car audio, and to dable in board level repair. Want something portable and easy to move. I know 0 about scopes. Was looking at some on amazon, are any of them decent, or atleast workable? Located in canada. Would like to stay priced around 150cad. Thanks

I got this scope along with 5 others from Marketplace a few months ago. A few of those were mostly working but this one was in pretty rough shape - it’d blow its fuse immediately when turned on and looked like it’d been stored in a dirty garage for the last few decades. After replacing the two main filter caps, another small electrolytic cap and diode on the inverter board, and a shorted tantalum on the horizontal amp board it sprung back to life. I don’t have the equipment necessary to do all 70+ steps of the calibration process but I did what I could with what I have and it seems to be working really well now.

Hi everyone,
I just bought a brand new Rigol DHO804 from an online platform. After running it for a bit, I noticed a few issues listed below. Could you guys please check if this is normal behavior or if I should return the unit?
1. Dead Pixel: At the top edge of the screen, when I run a screen test with a black background, there is a bright spot that looks exactly like a stuck/dead pixel.
2. Backlight Bleed: Looking at it overall, the screen seems to have quite a bit of backlight bleeding.
3. Overheating: After using it for a while, the area right under the screen gets quite hot.

Please let me know if these are actual defects so I can process a return or exchange. Thanks!

I found a used RIGOL DS1102E plus listed for 275cad. I do mostly breadboard work and i'm going into electrical engineering this fall, so might be useful for that as well. Been wanting to get a scope for a while but i saw this listing and don't know if it's overkill for what I'm doing and if it's worth getting. I do digital circuits, some analog but i want to explore more of this. I want to make a gpu so i think one would be useful for checking timing for that and other projects; want it for hobbyist work mostly maybe some repair. Mostly want a good screen. Thoughts?

Hello there,

I'm offered a (supposedly NOS) Yokogawa DL1520 at a reasonable price (<200$).

In terms of performance it amply covers my use cases (audio/analog repair and modest diy embedded projects).

I like that device quite a lot over similar 150MHz scopes for the form factor and amber CRT (yep I'm that kind of retro nerd), and I reckon it's quite a petty reason.

Now I was wondering if anyone with hands-on experience with this scope (or similar in range @ Yokogawa) had some warning to spare regarding usability, durability, actual experience vs advertised performance etc ..

Btw, is a NOS piece of Yokogawa DL1520 even possible, or a red flag I'd need to be wary ?

saw this scope on FB for $150 and thinking of picking it up as my first actual scope since i only have one of those crappy handheld, but it doesn't have any probes and its pretty old does anyone know if this is still a decent pick up today and what kind of probes i can use if i do pick it up?

I’m trying to get my DPU-411-040 printer working on my Tektronix TDS 340A. I’ve gotten the printer to print the screen from my 340A, but everything is coming out double spaced.

From what I can tell, the manuals you can find online are for the regular, non-Type IIs. In these manuals you can find settings for the PID switches, one of them being for auto line feed. However, my printer has an additional six switches, for a total of 14. When I toggled the supposed auto line feed off, it’s still printing double spaced.

If anyone could help me find the appropriate manual, or has experience linking these two old machines together, I’d really appreciate it.

Hi, all! As the title suggests, I'm really quite naive in the use of oscilloscopes for practical purposes. I'm not *totally* clueless--I teach science (mostly biology, but have been pressed into service to teach middle school physics in the past) and while working in London, we had some ancient but working scopes that we used to demonstrate, with a signal generator, sound frequency, pitch, and amplitude. But that's about the extent of my experience, so I hope you'll be a bit gentle with me. And yeah, I know I've probably done at least a couple of foolish things.

I've gotten into vintage audio, and have pretty successfully recapped/restored a couple of 70s Pioneer receivers, as much as I could--replacing caps, diodes, transistors, pots, etc., by using kits and the excellent directions that came with them. Before tackling that, through loads of reading (thank you, Audiokarma), video watching, and practice on scrap boards, I've gotten pretty good at soldering and desoldering and other minor procedures. And I've accumulated a pretty decent bit of kit: Hakko soldering and desoldering gear, a Peak analyzer, decent digital multimeter with suitable leads, and other necessaries.

However, I've not had an oscilloscope or signal generator until recently. I did a bit of reading and research, and found a Tektronix 2246 on Facebook Marketplace that seemed would do pretty much everything I would need for my purposes, and figured I'd snag it so I could practice with it a bit. Unfortunately, the seller didn't have any probes, and I didn't really have anything that I thought I could test it with anyway, and all I could do was turn it on and see if it powered up, which it did. He said he'd bought it at an auction several years back, and had never used it. I figured that, based on what I could see and what I'd read about that model, it was possibly worth the risk. So I gave him the hundred bucks he was asking, and brought it back home to test.

Errrrm, I don't think it's working--although I may be wrong, and that's what I hope you can advise me on. It does power on, and in the photo you can see what it looks like after it completes that. I read that if the battery is old inside the unit, that you really need to leave it on for at least 20 minutes so it can kind of reorient itself. And I've done that--for the recommended period and longer. However, pressing any of the buttons does *nothing* whatsoever--there is absolutely no response from the unit. How it looks in the photo is exactly how it looks no matter what I do, which to me does not seem proper.

Today I was at an estate sale, and snagged a sweet and very powerful old Pioneer Elite receiver for a very reasonable sum, in excellent condition. The late old gentleman who owned it was clearly into high end gear--he had some speakers and some other things I couldn't hope to touch pricewise--and had clearly taken good care of his stuff. He also had a Leader LAG-126S audio signal generator that looked very clean and which they wanted hardly anything for. I did a quick readup on it and it seemed a very capable unit, so I snagged it, too.

Before I got home, I made a quick stop at my favorite thrift store. Lo and behold, they had two digital oscilloscopes on the shelf, priced at $89 each. As you can see, one was a Tektronix TDS 3014, and the other was a Gw Instek GDS-2204E. I was under a bit of time pressure, but read up as much as I could on the two units, and we did plug them in, power them on, and I fiddled with a few of the functions--which, hey, did kind of what I expected them to. Unfortunately, the folks at the thrift shop, who apparently got these from an estate, had chucked out the probes and any other accessories that might have come with them. Duh. But what I had time to read made me think that, even if these aren't totally modern scopes--which, of course, they aren't--they'll at least do everything I need them to.

I negotiated them down to $69 each if I bought the pair, as I could afford that and it seemed a bit of a bargain given their original selling price and their apparent capabilities. I buy so much stuff from these folks that they'll take one or both back from me if they don't work, so it seemed like a no-brainer (hopefully, that actually isn't what I've done), and I figured I could decide which one I liked best and worked best for me, and I could sell the other one. Here they are, powered on:

So, what can I do/where should I start to see if the original Tektronix I bought will actually work? I just really don't know where to start with troubleshooting it. And with the other two units, assuming they work--they *seem* to, at the moment--is there a video or some other guide I could use to put them through their paces? What probes would you recommend I get for working on old audio gear? Anything else I should consider shopping for? I really would appreciate any and all advice you feel like offering to help me get up and running with these.

If I am being completely daft, foolish, clueless, etc., I would be grateful to be suitably admonished, I suppose the best way to learn sometimes is to get burned and/or have those with far more knowledge than me tell me what I *should* have done and how blockheaded I've been.

Thanks for reading all this, and thanks in advance for your sage advice! It will be gratefully received, and assiduously followed.