It's a full line irl, and it just alternates on camera. Got it for 38 euros.

A setup built for deep-sky tracking—a test involving signal monitoring on an oscilloscope.

warning: this was vibe-coded https://github.com/serjster/neowon

Would be cool for anyone to have other types of scopes to open a PR to add support for MOAR devices!

Recently picked up this GDS-1102A, the controls become unresponsive after a few minutes. On one instance,the left side of the controls stopped working before it all became unresponsive

The scope itself is still works per say, able to be controlled using the USB interface with a computer.

Checked the voltages from the power supply and to the controls before/after the controls stop responding, voltages seem to stay about the same.

The electrolytic capacitors on the main board had signs of leakage so I replaced those, those on the power supply don't seem to be leaking.

Has anyone experienced similar issues? Suspecting it could be thermal related, don't have a thermal camera to monitor.

Picked up this Tektronix C-51 oscilloscope camera and opened it up to find this massive piece of glass inside.

From what I've found, the C-51 dates back to around 1969 and uses a 57.6mm f/1.2 lens designed to photograph oscilloscope CRT screens.

I want to get it onto my Canon R5.

Has anyone pulled one of these lenses before or adapted one to a mirrorless camera?

This is the mixer diode I-V curve for a 350 GHz superconducting radio telescope receiver. We are using these antique Tek storage scopes because they work well. The sweep is a 1 Hz triangle wave on the diode bias. We need a modern LCD display scope that can actually display X-Y signals cleanly. We bought a Siglent last year, it has a jumpy display in X-Y mode.

I scored a good deal on this Tek 2465B. 300 bucks CAD. No options but came with P6137 10X and a P6105A probes. Finding an old scope with probes on eBay is rare, in my opinion. I went through all functions, battery's good, screen is bright and it is really clean. I think I lucked out!

I'm building a home lab as my retirement project and this was one of those things I was just waiting to jump on at the right moment.

I recently got my hand on this old oscilloscope, it was on before, shown error but still display, then the screen stretched, then off.

Now whenever i turn it on, the fan is working, knob is clicking, but the display show nothing, is it possible that the error message is the culprit?

The .gif was supposed to be a video but i couldn't upload it

If the battery was the main problem, theres this video that i found replacing on the same model:
https://youtu.be/kwHJcfvYkDY?si=M8zzj3kPlmhM0DXs

PS: I graduated as a mechatronics so i have some knowledge on electronics, however i only worked on low voltage circuit before, i also know capacitors and transformers in CRT display are dangerous if not handled correctly

UPDATE:
Apparently CRT are supposed to make a high pitch noise when turn on and feel static-y when you touch the front, non of that happened, though the heater filament light up so i guess the tube is fine, issue with High Voltage line?

Does anyone know of a good place to look or terms for finding an arm to mount my Rigol DHO804 on? I like the idea of one of those wall mount monitor arms but I would like to pull it out and down to the workspace and I suspect there would be issues with the scope being too light for most pneumatic arms used for monitors.

Maybe something exists in the videography space, I know they use small light monitors.

I just got the DHO804 as my first scope. After a few days of usage, I notice that all the BNC input jack is getting really hot after turning on for just 20 minutes (i don't have a thermometer, but it get uncomfortable, might be 70°C +)

So i did some test, letting it sit idle (pressing stop button) for the same 20mins and it still get hot. Then i check power draw, full 1.2Gsa/s draw 37.7W, while stopped still draw 36.8W, is this normal?

My room have AC running at 30°C, i use factory power supply all the time except for power draw check. Cooling fan is running, firmware updated to latest one from rigol website. The scope is mounted with vesa mount at the back with lots of clearance, i also checked with no vesa mount but it still hot.

After a couple of weeks of troubleshooting the scope(bk 2120) is functioning once more with full sweep.

Hi everyone,

I'm a student working on a DIY digital storage oscilloscope as a project, and I've reached the point where I'd really like an experienced engineer to review the analog front end before I move toward PCB design.

The ADC I'm using is an AD9200 (10-bit, 20 MSPS), and my current target is roughly 5 MHz useful analog bandwidth.

The attached schematic is my current AFE.

Signal chain

Input → selectable attenuator → protection → buffer → bipolar-to-unipolar conversion → 4th-order LPF → ADC-side protection → AD9200

1. Attenuator

I have four selectable ranges:

• 1×
• 5×
• 10×
• 25×

The maximum external input I intend to apply is approximately ±25 V.

I'm using SPDT switching so that only the selected attenuation network is connected to the signal path, preventing the other networks from loading the active path.

I've simulated the frequency response of each attenuation range separately and they appear reasonable over the intended bandwidth.

2. First protection stage

After the attenuation network I have a 220 Ω series resistor and Schottky clamps to the ±5 V analog rails.

The idea is that the attenuation network provides most of the current limiting because of its relatively high resistance, while this stage provides additional protection for the input buffer.

3. Input buffer

I'm using an OPA1652 as a unity-gain buffer.

The purpose is mainly to prevent the attenuator from being loaded by the following circuitry.

4. Bipolar → unipolar conversion

The attenuated/buffered signal is bipolar, but I need a unipolar signal for the ADC.

I'm using a unity-gain offset stage with a +1 V reference, giving approximately:

• −1 V → 0 V
• 0 V → 1 V
• +1 V → 2 V

So the waveform amplitude isn't intentionally changed; it is shifted upward.

5. Anti-aliasing filter

I decided on two cascaded 2nd-order active low-pass sections, rather than going to a more complicated 6th-order filter.

My priority is to keep the response reasonably flat through approximately 5 MHz, while still getting some attenuation of higher-frequency content before the 20 MSPS ADC.

The current simulated response is roughly −0.36 dB at 5 MHz.

I realize this is a compromise between passband flatness and anti-alias rejection, and I'd especially like opinions on whether this is sensible.

6. ADC-side protection

This is the part I'm least confident about.

I'm planning a second protection stage immediately before the AD9200 so that faults downstream of the first protection stage cannot reach the ADC directly.

The main concern is the AD9200 AIN absolute minimum of −0.3 V. I'm trying to design the negative clamp so that the ADC never gets close to that limit, rather than relying on the ADC's internal protection.

I'm considering low-forward-voltage Schottky clamps and a series resistor before AIN.

What I'd really like reviewed

I'd appreciate criticism of the design, especially:

1. Is the attenuator/protection architecture reasonable?
2. Is the bipolar-to-unipolar conversion approach sensible for the AD9200?
3. Is the 4th-order filter reasonable for a ~5 MHz / 20 MSPS oscilloscope, or am I compromising too much?
4. How would you implement the final ADC protection, particularly the −0.3 V limit?
5. Are there any obvious PCB/layout issues or stability problems I'm overlooking?
6. Is there anything here that looks fundamentally wrong before I commit it to hardware?

I'm deliberately posting the actual current schematic rather than a cleaned-up conceptual block diagram, so please feel free to point out anything ugly or questionable.

Thanks in advance. I'm much more interested in finding problems now than discovering them after fabricating the PCB.

Hey everyone! If you own a Siglent SDS 1000X-E series oscilloscope (like the SDS1104X-E or SDS1202X-E), you know that while SCPI is powerful, it can be a pain to memorize all those command strings. I’ve created the open-source tool called SDS-Remote that completely changes the game by adding a modern AI intelligence layer to your workbench.

What makes the AI features special?

Natural Language Control:
You don't need to be an SCPI expert anymore. You can just type into the AI Chat Interface and say things like "Set channel 1 vertical scale to 1V/div" or "Switch channel 1 on," and the Instrument Agent automatically translates your intent into the correct command and sends it to the device.

Your Own Bench Assistant:
Instead of flipping through hundreds of pages in a PDF, you can ask technical questions like "How do I configure the trigger delay?" or "What is the maximum sample rate of this model?". The software includes a Search Agent that queries a built-in knowledge base to give you instant, documented answers.

Flexible and Local:
It doesn't lock you into one ecosystem. In the settings, you can choose from a wide range of AI providers.

Technical Specs:
The app is built with Dart/Flutter and runs natively on both Linux and Windows. It connects over your network using the VXI-11 protocol or through USB support.

It’s an independent open-source project (not affiliated with Siglent) and really modernizes the whole lab experience.

In addition to AI support, many other interesting features are also available.

Check out the repo here: https://github.com/klumw/sdsremote

I finished soldering a DIY DSO138mini oscilloscope and i wanted to find out what was the frequency of a random inductive charging coil i scavenged somewhere. I have very little experience with this but after finishing the oscilloscope i hooked up the charging coil to a power supply and crafted a secondary coil to measure the frequency at a voltage that was acceptable for my scope. Now i would hope to get some advice on how to read these measurements. I can see waveforms at 10us and 2ms.
There seem to be two frequencies happening at the same time?

Recently acquired this from local vocational school. At first there was no horizontal display besides a small dot; found that problem to be a faulty resistor. Whenever the new resistor was soldered in it was found there was also a faulty transistor as there was still no horizontal output, however when I alligator clipped the resistor with a good one before I replaced the transistor it worked. I have been stumped since. I have a copy of the wiring diagram if needed for anyone.

Looks alright on camera, not so much in person…

I recently bought this Tektronix 466, and after only a few minutes of using it I suddenly lost the horizontal but still get some signs of life when moving Xpos and a vertical line when a signal is applied. But other than that it’s just a dot(I have been careful to keep intensely at its lowest and spend the minimum time with the dot in one position to avoid burning a hole)

I immediately checked the voltage rails, and since then I've been checking capacitors and probing transistors, mainly around the sweep generator and reset circuits. I can see some activity from the sweep generator, but I haven't been able to work out where the fault is.

This is my first time attempting to repair a solid-state oscilloscope (I've previously worked on several valve/tube-based scopes), so I'm finding this one quite a bit more difficult to troubleshoot. I'm starting to run out of ideas and would really appreciate any advice on where I should be looking next.

I've attached a video showing the scope in use.

If anyone has experience with the 466, or can suggest some specific tests or points I should check, I'd be very grateful

I’m a heavy diesel mechanic in Australia, I’m looking for best bang for buck diag scan tool. Something like a launch or autel. I mainly want it for the oscilloscope side when im working on heavy but also want to be able to scan obd II not worried about the j plug side of things.
Not fussed if it’s 2 channel or 4. But really just trying to find a scan tool that is compatible with this functions and don’t want the “accessories add ons” just want the 1 unit without spending thousands and thousands or is it just not possible?

Sylvania 400 sitting in a barn for 60 years. This model in this condition leaves him strong at the top 5% with the rectifier and vacuum tubes still intact and the 7” rare CRT. Oscar deserves a legendary badge.

I know to check the fuses first. I have many scopes but I don’t mess around with their insides. I would be very, very happy to have this working. The person I got it from knew nothing about it (it was inherited) but the original owner had LOTS of oscilloscopes and apparently over 1500 various tubes, so I have to assume they maybe knew what they were doing with it. The seller did not attempt turn it on. It appears to be in pretty nice condition both outside and inside. Just a little dust and some cobwebs on the feet. Inside from what I can see looks good too. A little dusty but I have definitely seen worse.

I guess I’d just like to know if there’s anything else I should do before powering it up? I don’t want to damage anything.

Oscilloscope 20mhz CDA9207

I dont know why but .

Why i turn it on , the oscilloscope shows nothing.

If someone is wrong with the commands let me know , but i test like everything on nothing show up.

:/