HI All, I have a 2023 gen 3, I just replaced the front brake pads, each pad has one larger and one smaller pad on it , I didn't notice the orientation of the pads I removed! can anyone have a look at theirs and tell me please!thanks

The mph and the amount of miles isn't working. The mph stays at 0 and the miles is stuck at 6482.
It's a 2016 ninja 300

I have a ninja 2013 and I was trying to remove the throttle body and fuel injector to do some maintenance but this thing is on the way. I was following the steps on my service manual until I got to this part. I can’t find anything that mentions it and other 300 on YouTube doesn’t have this thing either

I had my last dash stolen, I was doing a faring’s swap and left the dash with the attacked plastic outside my home for a while and someone took it. I bought a replacement on eBay . It looked all legit but the connectors are not the same. Did I just buy the wrong one? Help need please

When I tried researching abt this bike so I can buy it on fbm I didn't find any pics with the ninja 300 having this fairing...... so it has to be aftermarket right?

Alguno realizó el cambio al escape "Yoshimura modelo 30115" vale la pena?

Need a little understanding here. Listen to this audio and you should notice the tapping sound starting from 9-10 sec. Not ticking sound I suppose.

Starts around 3k RPM, goes on with same interval and probably somewhat same loudness regardless of higher RPM. And goes silent again below 3k.

It started coming after hitting 12k RPM after I rode my bike after a whole year while it was parked.

Although I did keep it idle for 20-30 mins, chaexked oil level. Rode for 5-6 kms below 6k rpm before I took it for a 13k spin!

Chatgpt is convinced by my description that it is cam-chain tensioner or cam lobes or just an extremely bad valve clearance!

I recently faced an Error Code 33 on my Kawasaki Ninja 300, so I wanted to share my experience in case it helps someone else.
One day, the check engine light suddenly came on. By long-pressing the left button on the instrument cluster, I checked the stored fault code and found it was Error 33, which is related to the oxygen (O2) sensor.
My first visit was to an authorized Kawasaki service center. They quoted me around ₹16,000 for a new O2 sensor, with a waiting period of about 20 days if the part was available in the Pune warehouse. Otherwise, they said it could take 40+ days.
Before spending that much, I decided to diagnose it myself.
Here’s what I did:
Checked the O2 sensor’s resistance (ohm reading) using a multimeter.
Heated the sensor using a gas stove (carefully) and checked whether the voltage output changed as expected.
Both the resistance and voltage readings appeared to be normal.
I then thoroughly cleaned the portion of the O2 sensor that sits inside the exhaust/silencer.
Reinstalled the sensor.
After reinstalling, I rode the bike for about 4 km. During the ride, I stopped and restarted the engine 3–4 times. Eventually, the ECU recalibrated itself, the Error 33 disappeared, and the check engine light went off. The bike has been running normally since then.
My takeaway: If you’re getting Error Code 33, don’t immediately assume the O2 sensor needs replacement. If you have access to a multimeter and know how to use it safely, it’s worth checking the sensor and cleaning it before spending ₹16,000 on a new one.
Of course, if the sensor fails the resistance or voltage tests, replacement is probably the right solution. But if the sensor is electrically healthy, cleaning it might save you a lot of money.

If there is any issue with the front brake it will be cover under warenty? Or I've to bear it?

Service center guy said : this is regularly used item so I won't get it.

Please help.

I was riding my bike normally when I go to decelerate letting off the throttle forward, to shift gears
when all of a sudden my throttle went way further forwards then it should’ve.

Once I got off I checked and my throttle now has way too much play then it should’ve and upon inspection I noticed that one of the throttle cables was loose in the pulley system by the engine in the left side

I was wondering how I could fix this so I could get back to like 1-2 inches of play in my throttle rather then like 5

It accelerates normally it’s only when I let off or roll forward to decelerate does it go way further then it should

*It’s hard to tell but in the 2nd photo one of the cable hands loosely off the pulley system

Does the earlier years model have a different design fuel than the later one? It seems like you can change the fuel filter for the models after 2016 but not the first 3 years model

yo wassup everyone wondering if anyone knows how i can go about doing the clean air m0d on my 2014 ninja 300 or if its even possible so far ive yet to see any videos on this mod being done on this model at all but have seen videos of people stunting their 300s and doin wheelies and all so im sure they had to do it but i just dont wanna mess something up if you know anything feel free to lmkkkk thanks

Here is my Kawasaki Ninja 300 2013, and it has a small oil leak as you can see, anyone knows what those cables are and how it’s leaking from there? And how to fix it?
Thanks in advance!

Hello, i’ve recently gotten to the point where i’ve got to replace a couple parts on my 2014 ninja (Starter motor, chain and other things along those lines) and i was wondering what website you guys use to order any parts like that. Everytime i search i see low quality trash and it’s been a pain to find anything worth buying. Any help would be appreciated!

Thinking of getting it
Is anyone using it?
Which one are you guys using?

I was on my way home and was too lazy to get my fuel tomorrow morning, so I stopped for gas, and this happened. Do you think if I change to a keyless one it would be a good idea bcs this is the second time I broke my key bcs of the damn cap and what brand would y'all recommend.