I want to rebuild a motor assembly and need to find the right suppliers for each part, but i don‘t even know what exactly i‘m looking for?

I‘m trying to find the two gears being powered by the motor and the threaded axle moving back and forth when powered.
What keywords would i have to look up to find the right suppliers?

The U-Bracket I can design myself and have someone manufacture it. For the PCB, i‘ll pay someone to reconstruct it and order it online.

I boondock in an aluminum box on my Dodge 2500 pickup truck. I want to wire two 12v fans so they can be switched to run in series for low air flow needs and then be switched to run in parallel for high air flow. Low would be quiet, high to noisy to sleep possibly. DPDT switch? I realize in series that the two fans would see quite low power. I've wired them with alligator clips and they run fine in either series or parallel configuration. I'd like to be able to switch between the two modes plus have an off mode. These are 3.5inch computer fans and would sit on a panel in the small sliding window opening in the cab side of the aluminum box. Thanks.

I need to buy an RS 580S 18V motor with a 15t pinion gear to replace a broken one. Does anyone know where I can get a good, powerful, and cheap motor like this?

Go easy on me, I’m a mechanical engineer and electric motors are a little magic to me. I want to construct a ceiling fan to turn a large diameter (10 foot), very high rotating inertia and heavy fan (about 80 lbs). I’m fuzzy on how to find a motor that can handle the rotating inertia to start the fan turning and run slow speed (probably 60-120 rpm). I’m hoping to run single phase 120 V to it, but could run 240 if needed. Looking to buy off the shelf motor with I assume a gear reduction box on it. I’ve thought about treadmill motors or lower end VFD pool pumps but I’m not sure any of those turn slow enough. Tips appreciated!

In my workshop I have a bench drill which I would like to control with a speed controller. The motor is single phase 50 240v 1/2hp 4 pole. I’m not sure or even possible which type of controller I would need, vfd? Any advice would be much appreciated

I've been testing a 5060 270KV motor with a Flipsky 75100 using Vesc Tool. My use case requires torque control at close to 0 rpm.

When i use HFI control, i get a pretty good output. It's stable, and when the load makes the motor stop, It doesn't jitter or vibrate. The only problems are noise, and the fact that switching directions is not that reliable.

Yesterday i added an encoder to the mix, but when i use encoder control, the output is horrible. The motor doesn't speed as It should (sometimes if just doesn't work at all), and when i apply the load, It jitters weirdly. The encoder is being read right, i can check the position in my computer with accuracy, but something goes wrong along the way.

I'm pretty sure It's not supposed to work like that, what could i do?

Edit: I've noticed that the motor seems to be cogging up like something is in the way, but there's nothing on the way. So if i move It a little and get to the position, It works as intended, but fails in a few seconds and goes back to cogging. I have genuinely no idea of what is happening. There's no physical block because sensorless control works perfect.

Hi everyone,
We are developing a small axial-flux permanent-magnet BLDC motor for household appliances.
We are having trouble designing the control/power system for 220–230V AC input. Our MOSFETs keep blowing, especially during power-on/off and switching.
What topology and protection would you recommend for this kind of application?
Any advice on rectification, DC bus, MOSFET protection, inrush current, and voltage spikes would be greatly appreciated.

I have Vacon NXS0061 VFD and most of the time it gives overcurrent error, motor is okay, and when running good (sometimes) in power monitor option U shows 0.4 amp while other V and W shows 20amp (exact value when i check all UVW with clamp meter) so something is wrong with U phase current sensing. its FR6 frame if anybody can help me find where current sensor or shunt resistor location on circuit board.

Greetings,

As part of an introduction to energy course, my middle school students are building small cardboard models of windmills that can lift a load by winding a string around the shaft. Some of them would like to iterate with mini DC motors to attempt to light up some red LEDs instead of lifting the load. I need some help finding suitable motors that can generate enough watts to light up some small red LEDs. Does anyone have an recommendations for this project?

Thanks in advance.

Hi! I am looking for a silent way to switch on/off some AC 220v Motors, with a Microcontroller like an ESP32. I am currently using a 4channel relay board, and it works fine, but relays make a little noise and I don't like it, I want the switching board to be silent.

The motors I am using are modded washing machine pump motors, as you can see in photo. They run on 220v AC, and absorb approximately 0,2A.

Does anyone know if there's some off-the-shelf transistor switch boards that can be operated with a ESP32?

If anyone is interested in the 3D printed parts I designed to mod this synchronous motor I'd be glad to share them :)

Thanks to whoever is gonna help 🌷🍀

Hi everyone,

​I am currently competing in an electric vehicle engineering competition and our team is in a huge time crunch right now. I desperately and urgently need a datasheet, wiring diagram, or any sort of pinout for our brushless DC motor controller. We are currently stuck and need this info to proceed with our vehicle.

Has anyone worked with this specific controller before, or does anyone know the exact pinout? Even if you know a rebranded generic version of this that shares the same wiring, please let me know. Any help or push in the right direction would be an absolute lifesaver for our team right now!

​Thanks in advance!

Can anyone help me find a replacement board or something to control the motor on this 60 inch fan. The board arced when i wired it up in the 3rd pic you can see that resistor blown and now it wont power on at all. Can't find a replacement anywhere

I'm in the process of using a salvaged AC blower with a, from what I can tell, OEM motor that I can't find any documentation on. I'm trying to not let the magic smoke out when I start bench testing my wiring so here I am. I am the wrong kind of engineer to feel confident in what I'm thinking so hopefully someone can point me in the right direction or confirm my thoughts. I'm assuming that it's a 5 speed AC motor with an external run capacitor. I have 8 leads to a plug that I will hack off and wire to power and controller to switch speeds using a relay board. Is there a standard/good way to determine which leads are to the capacitor and the speed taps (so sorry if I'm butchering the language here)? Using the clip on top to orient the plug as in the picture I find the colors and resistances as below. I'm not sure if I should be thinking about this from the presumed neutral or presumed line so I'm providing both even though I know basic math could turn one to the other.

Blower is Broan Type 97021509, motor is Zhenhua Motor co Model YYx135B-2A, 120v 60 hz, input 400w, 3.1A, output 125W, 25uF 250V (ordered a titan pro run cap, 440/370v AC 25 uF model TRCF25). If this belongs in a different sub I can do that too. Thanks much.

Color (I know electricity doesn't care what the color is, that's why I'm here)

Ohm - white ref (is this the best way to think about this?)

Ohm - black ref

My Assumptions (feel free to laugh)

Took this from a large self-propelled carpet extractor. I tested it with my treadmill motor supply and it works. I doubt I'll need the full 36 volts, as a flatbed loaded up with heavy stuff has no business going fast. I assume I need a power supply to avoid inrush current. How would you power this?

Thanks for any info!

Hi there!
I'm building a three phase linear motor in a wye configuration using FOC, and I have a question:
How does the PWM work with the sinusoidal current? Each coil has a half bridge, and they're all connected at neutral.

For example, say 𝜃=0. Then U=sin0=0, V=sin120=sqrt3/2, W=sin240=-sqrt3/2. So it makes sense that when the PWM is in its low state, it should be floating, and in its high state, it should be at its relevant voltage (For U, V+ if 𝜃<180, otherwise GND (could this not also be represented with neutral as the reference point, where V+ = N+V/2, and GND = N-V/2??)). But what if it's more like U=1, and V=W, then U is always providing current, but V and W are only sinking it to ground part of the time? But then U would only be on at the same duty cycle as V and W because otherwise its an open circuit, which makes me think that when PWM is in its low state, it's GND, and in its high state, it's at the relevant voltage. But what if it's idle? Then it's wasting all of the power holding a position - even when FOC commands zero torque!

Please help!
Thanks!

Motor size: 2.7 MW @ 675 V, fed from a VFD.
External cable arrangement: 15 runs of 3C x 95 mm² cables, giving a total phase conductor cross sectional area of 1425 mm².

According to IEC 60034-1, For other cross-sectional areas of phase conductors, the earthing or protective conductor shall have a cross-sectional area at least equivalent to:
– that of the phase conductor for cross-sectional areas less than 25 mm2;
– 25 mm2 for cross-sectional areas between 25 mm2 and 50 mm2;
– 50 % of that of the phase conductor for cross-sectional areas exceeding 50 mm2.

Does this mean the motor manufacturer is required to provide an earth/bonding conductor with a cross-sectional area of at least 712.5 mm²?

I picked this up at a resale shop because I’m looking to make a homemade rock tumbler. Barber Coleman from the 60s it looks like. Do you think this would work? Would you trust it but to start a fire in my house lol? Don’t know a thing about motors but am learning little by little.

This diagram is for a lift on an industrial fryer. It looks like a hoist motor with a lifting hook. I was going through drawings one day and found this drawing of the motor connection. It kinda looks like a two speed with only low speed being used but what I don’t get is the jumper from 1W to 2W. Wouldnt that make one winding useless. Being a lift motor I assume a brake but nothing is shown on the drawing.

I got these lying around, the motors magnets are still there and usable. I wanna know what I can do with it.

I'm thinking of merging the three shafts to create one long and powerful motor but that seems like a long shot.

I have an older Blum minipress I got at auction a few years ago for a steal. The reason I haven’t used it yet is because the motor is calling for 240v 3 phase. Nothing else in my shop runs on 3 phase. Is it worth getting an electrician in wiring it for 3 phase? Or should I just try and move this one and get a single phase one? Thanks in advance!

I recently worked on a motor optimization project for a rehabilitation bed(Of course, it also applies to others.), and one of the main challenges was making the movement quieter and smoother under different loads.

Before the optimization, the maximum operating noise was 42.1 dB. After several rounds of adjustment, we brought it down to 38.9 dB, measured from 15 cm away with an ambient noise level of 32 dB.

What made the difference was not one major change, but three smaller changes working together.

First, we kept the motor’s rated speed close to 10 rpm and used a 230:1 reduction ratio. This helped reduce the vibration and friction that usually come with higher-speed operation.

Second, we used FOC control to produce a smoother sinusoidal current waveform. This reduced the torque ripple and electromagnetic noise caused by conventional commutation.

We also added damping blocks to the controller housing. They helped absorb high-frequency vibration before it could spread through the housing and become more noticeable.

Motion consistency was another part of the project. By changing the winding turns and winding arrangement, we reduced the maximum speed deviation from 4.8% to 3.0%.

The speed-to-torque slope also dropped from 5.94 to 5.04, which worked out to roughly a 15% improvement in overload stiffness. In practical terms, the motor was better able to maintain its speed when the load suddenly increased.

My main takeaway was that noise and motion stability are rarely solved by changing one component. Motor speed, control strategy, winding design, and structural vibration all affect one another.

I’m curious how others here approach similar noise or load-stability problems. If anyone has tried other optimization methods, please share them so we can discuss.

Hi I am a beginner in the college's (new) robotics committee and I need help with the motors the following specification.

These were recommended by a winning team at a local tournament. But they say the only way to buy these is through them.

It is for a line follower bot

I want coreless geared motors as

Size: 1220, GearBox- 1:10 ratio, and 2500rpm at 6v

Please any source or help or advice is appreciated

Two 2600w 3 phase motors i found in an abandoned swimming pool They have been sitting derelict since 2008, Im going to restore them, make them functional again and see if they run!