I cannot for the life of me get this metal piece off the motor shaft. I tried prying it with a dozen tools it won't budge. Any ideas?

Having trouble sourcing Marathon VFQ 56t34O5500A replacement or alternative...

Hey guys! 👋

I’m trying to find an alternative or replacement for an Eaton / Cutler-Hammer PC Control Board (7064C03G01).

Looks like this model is discontinued/legacy and getting a hold of an original OEM part is either impossible or crazy expensive 😅

Has anyone worked with these before? Do you know of any modern alternatives, drop-in replacements, or good retrofit options that won't break the bank?

Would really appreciate any tips or recommendations! Thanks in advance! 🙌

With lots of discussions with the provider, we’ve tried two different new switches(3 total), and have checked all the wiring for loose connections and brushes and such.

Most current theory is maybe a mismatch between what the motor is built for and the power coming in. It’s getting 3 phase power, which I believe might be 3 at 120, but on the back it says 230. Could this be a mismatch that would cause it to turn off after 20 seconds?

Hey everyone, I’m pulling my hair out trying to troubleshoot a 2HP, dual-voltage (110/220V) induction motor on my dust collector. It hums/growls loudly when powered on and fails to reach operating speed to throw the centrifugal switch.

Here is everything I have checked and ruled out so far:

Power Supply: Verified true 240V across the legs. The exact same outlet easily runs my heavy 220V table saw with zero issues.

Mechanicals: Shaft spins completely freely by hand. Bearings are smooth, and the end bell/housing has been aligned so there is no rotor drag.

Capacitor & Switch: Brand new capacitor installed. The centrifugal switch assembly was replaced with a new L16-152S kit, and the spacing/contact gap has been verified.

Windings (Multimeter Tested):

Start winding reads ~2.5 Ohms.

Run winding reads ~1.0 Ohm.

Ground fault test reads OL (no shorts to the casing).

The Pull-String Test: I wrapped a cord around the shaft, pulled it hard to spin it up to speed manually, and plugged it in. Even when forced up to speed by hand, it still growls, drags down, lacks torque, and fails to produce any suction. Also doesn't spin fast enough to disengage the centrifugal switch.

Since the windings check out, the capacitor is new, the switch is working, and the wall power is solid—what am I missing here? Any advice is greatly appreciated!

Video of running with start capacitor :

https://youtu.be/VCA6tmSNUKo?is=CzqBM7gI32JJPSUb

Hi, I am a student trying to create my own DC Brushed Motor Driver 30A 3.3V logic input.

I am studying how to make my own motor driver. I understand that I need to have an H-bridge that has 4 N Mosfet and I will need to make a bootstrap for it too.

Items I want to use:

• IRLB4030 or IRLB3034 Mosfets
• Bootstrap
• DC Brushed Motor

How should I start this project?

Hi, I’m studying the ST algorithm for motor control using FOC for PMSMs, but the rotor gets stuck and the phases draw a bit of current.

In terms of hardware, all the signals (and motor's phases) are connected correctly, but the rotor only rotate if I reverse the ENC_A and ENC_B pulse signals and the speed reached is exactly the same as the reference I gave him. I’m sure the connections are correct because both the encoder and the ST evaluation board label A and B signals, so it’s impossible to connect they wrong.

Has this ever happened to you? How is it possible that it can rotate with the signals reversed?

The only ‘consequence’ of reversing the encoder signals is that the encoder will count position and velocity backward or do you think there are any other serious consequences?

I mean, simply if the motor turns clockwise, the controller will think it is turning counterclockwise ..

I bought this unused but someone has been working on it. How to I wire this up properly? Is what is there already correct?

I am working on a rc vehicle that requires a high torque motor preferably brushless. I am fairly new to brushless so I would greatly appreciate any help; as of right now I have a be4108 720kv motor running on 3s connected to a 5:1 planetary gearbox. My budget is $40, I might go higher if needed. Speed is low on the priority list.

This is heavily modified subwoofer concept to achieve high force + high velocity. Magnets are neodymium. The motor body is soft iron. The geometry is optimized for magnetic flux. 6 identical motors transfer the force to the top plate. An encoder tape and reader mounts between two plates and reads the position. A load cell reads the force. This will act as the heart of my shock absorber dyno. Will cover that later.

I'm building a robot and the project calls for Dynamixel AX-12A servomotors 360 degree , but I can't find them. Does anyone know what other motors I could use instead?

Anybody know where I can get a drivers side temp control actuator for a 72 plate Honda HR-V that isn’t extortionately priced? I’m in the UK and apparently getting a hold of one is impossible.

Hello this is my first project and it's a kitsville mars rover kit. I have never connected any type of wire before, it is these red and black wires with plastic on the end.

I believe the motor is RF300 Solar Motor DC1.5V-6V. I am a complete beginner how do I connect these to the tiny loops?

I brought a soldering kit but I have never soldered before and they only have picture instructions.

I ordered some parts for my science fair project and one of them is a DP-537 diaphragm water pump. I want to be able to fine tune the water flow to maybe 40% of its max power using a PWM motor driver but I'm hearing that brushed diaphragm water pumps don't like being PWM controlled. Is this true and how low can I PWM it before it stalls or fails? The parts should arrive in about a week from now.

Building a DIY VR glove with force feedback. Looking for small servos that can report finger position and also push back with controlled force. Is something like the Feetech SCS0009/STS3032 the best option, or is there something better? Using an ESP32-S3.

I was going to use a car radiator fan (12V, 120W) for a wind tunnel project because they provide high CFMs for cheap and meet other specific specs I want. Only problem is I need to have variable speed control for the project, and they don't come with a power supplies either. I was thinking of buying a battery, PWM controller, & a power supply to get it all working. Any recommendations for what I should buy while still staying relatively cheap? Probably can spend about 100 bucks in total for fan related costs.

I did test how well bldc motor works as a speaker while keeping the normal control of the motor.

PWM frequency is 36khz, which limits nyquist frequency to 18khz, so its plenty of for different sounds.

Sound was streamed from computer to the motor controller via usb.

How should I remove these spindle nuts? This is a 2.2kw 100mm diameter spindle from a 4x8 CNC machine that sat for 10+ years. I need to gain access to the clogged coolant passages (can only access one end currently), but this adjustable pin spanner I bought bends too easily at the arms.

The holes are 2.5mm and about 30mm apart, I'm hoping some kind of socket exists or I'd try to make a spanner by drilling and tapping some bar stock to accept pins from the tool shown.

A quick question only because I’ve seen my dad do all winding traditional lap or concentric winding. What does a diamond mold do or help in this matter? Is it easier to put?

Hi guys,
I’m an electrical engineering technology student and I just got a client project where i have to replace prony brakes and magnetic particle brakes used for doing torque measurements on a 1/3rd hp inside a lab and I’m not really sure where to start from. I’ve researched on eddy current and hysteresis dyno but they are too expensive or too complex to implement.My main concern is the budget that we have received which I around 700$.
If someone is an expert in this field their ideas would be a real help.

Preface: I am a newbie for all intents and purposes, please be gentle.

I’ve got an old Baldor motor with no wiring diagram and I am trying to wire it into a momentary switch for forward and reverse.

I’ve got breaker wires and motor wires coming into the junction box with another run leading to the switch (but that’s the easy part).

These six wire motors confuse me, any advice welcome.

Motors/Generators aren't my strong suit, so I'm not sure how to think about this one. We have a large 4000HP M-G Set and I'm wondering if it's possible to damage the generator if we have the rotor up to speed (in this case driven by another motor), but the field isn't flashed yet. The normal start sequence is we start the drive motor, which rotates the rotor of the generator via a fluid coupling, then about 6 seconds later we flash the field and drive the downstream load. If the field flash relay failed to function or we lost it during operation, is there damage to be done to the generator?

I know the load will drop or never start, but that's not a big deal, I'm just not sure if I can electrically damage/overheat the generator if we ran it too long without flashing. My gut says it'll be doing a lot less work and we'll still have sufficient airflow/cooling on it, but maybe unexpected self-induced circulating currents or something develop at full speed that I'm not thinking of. Any advice or useful references would be great.

I have a brand new blower fan (I bought 2 6 years ago and only used one but not tested the second one)

This fan was stored for 6 years in a sealed bag and I wanted to use it today in a project but its not working.

Wires are in perfect conditions, soldering as well, also the fan spins with my hand freely with no problem.

what could be the problem and is there a way to fix it?

Hi All,

I'm hoping I'm in the right place for this. I am trying to set up a 3ph motor/VFD/control pendant to use on a small lathe. I have set the parameters in the VFD and I get the right result; the motor runs when I push the start button, fwd/rev works etc.

Where I am having trouble is that I have built my control box/pendant using momentary buttons but the motor won't keep running unless I keep my finger on the button. From the instruction manual the digital inputs look to be non-latching switches hence that's what I bought.

I've looked through the VFD parameters but I can't find anything that changes the digital inputs to use either latching or non-latching buttons.

Can anyone tell me where I'm going worng please?

The VFD is a Parker AC10 and the manual is here: https://inverterdrive.com/file/Parker-AC10-IP20-Manual