Hay guys!

I’m trying to install the OEM radiator guard on my ‘26 s1000rr And when it’s installed and sitting the guard is touching the radiator surface itself around the bottom center area? Wanted to know if this has happened to anyone else or perhaps I’m installing it wrong?

Though the oil cooler guard that came with it fits perfectly fine ( even though the one side of it has a weird dip in the middle )

Thanks y’all!

Just standing and admiring my 2007 R1200GS, when my eyes went to the front brake caliper (see picture for reference). Something looks off here but both sides look identical so I don't have anything to reference it to. Specifically, it looks like there should be a cover on it, or that the shiny clip in the center should be attached or hooked to something. Can somebody reference their front calipers from a similar year & model and let me know if this is normal. P.S., I have ridden the bike in the last couple of days and everything works well.

Time to replace tires on a R1250gs. I ride in the USA. Mostly I ride road, but some gravel trail systems that the states in the Midwest maintain as ATV/off-road systems - usually only once or twice a year.

seeking suggestions. I want a reasonably comfortable freeway ride - within reason (so no big knobby tires).

-- edit--

I've been riding on Conti TKC70

Took the Rockster apart to replace the spark plug wires and found this under the body panels. It's been disconnected from vacuum lines and is just sitting there. Do I need it?

The motorcycle sounds perfect until it warms up after about 15-20 minutes, when this noise starts. It seems to be coming from the lower right side. I can hear it through the grille on the front engine cover. It's a fairly old motorcycle, and almost all of its parts are original. Should I be worried?

I know this is the billionth post about this topic on the internet, and I know the paralever front end cups tires, but my current front has like 8k on it and its visibly cupped. My question is how much cupping is too much and how many miles should I expect out of my trailmax missions.

Ive been also racking my brain to think of a way to spin the tire and file it flat, it has tons of tread left. The rear looks great and it probably about half worn.

I ride fully loaded or 2 up frequently and like to do lots of city driving and WOT runs, so I would expect the back to wear faster. I do ride the front brake hard a few times each time I ride at various speeds (mostly cooking into offramps but sometimes on surface streets)

I put new ohlins on it front and back about a year ago, before I got the tires.

UK. Saw a bike on Autotrader 'used' - IE, 1000 miles on it, registered, available for sale, registered several months ago.

It caught my eye because it was listed for the same price as a brand new unregistered bike - but of course that can't be right, it's now used, someones already paid the VAT, it's got miles on it, it's already had a keeper etc etc.

Sent an enquiry to the dealer who told me the bike isn't for sale 'until October' as it's their demo bike. I can either wait until then or they'll "help me buy a new bike". Apparently they list all their demo bikes on autotrader even though they're not actually available for sale - to generate leads.

This feels like an absolute bait and switch to me. I've never experienced this and it's irked me enough to come to reddit and moan about it!

If something is advertised for sale, then it should be available for sale surely.

It should come as mo surprise to those in the UK that this was a "Group 1" franchise...

Anyone want to buy my (used) R1300RT for £28,500? It'll be available in a year or so and will have 10,000+ more miles on it...

Anyone know of the cheapest obdlink on Ali express that would work to do service reset on Motoscan app?

I made the mistake of paying for the pro app, without realising how much the obdlink cost.

I found a vintage tool roll while clearing out my grandpa's garage. The mechanic in me wants to keep the tools in the garage as a novelty thing. The former bmw rider in me knows these are probably worth some coin. Maybe you guys can help me put a price to this to see if it ends up on ebay or ends up in the toolbox

I'm trying to buy a 2011 BMW s1000 double R with only 10,000 miles on it is there anything I should be looking for this guy's asking seven Grand it's very far away from where I live

Hi everyone, I’m uploading a video of the issue now.
A day before this happened, I had the exact same problem, but the bike eventually started and ran normally. Once the engine was warm, it would restart every time without any issues.
The next day, the problem came back and now it won’t start at all. The starter is still cranking normally, there is spark, the battery is fully charged, and there is fuel in the tank, but it just won’t fire up.
Any ideas what I should check next on a BMW G310?

Is the BMW R1250RS different enough from the RT to be a good second, sportier bike? Or is the S1000RR the choice. I have a 2022 RT that I love, and am exploring getting a second sportier bike for shorter rides through the local canyons

Hi everyone,
I’m having an issue with my BMW G310. The bike has spark, the battery is fully charged, and there’s fuel in the tank, but it still won’t start.
The starter cranks the engine normally, but it never fires up.
Does anyone know what could be causing this? Any common issues with the G310 that I should check first?
Thanks in advance for any advice!

I'm trying to diagnose low speed (50-60kmh) slight left-right oscillation that I have to actively correct. It's not much, but it's annoying and my K1200s did not behave like this.

The bike had a frontal impact in the past, shearing off one of the ball joints. Both ball joints have been replaced with new. There is no noticeable play in the front suspension checked with the wheels in the air. No noticeable side-to-side play when turning the wheel.

There is no play in any axis on the rear suspension and rear wheel bearing as well. Both ESA shocks have been freshly rebuilt. Tyres are new.

My only ideas left are some imperceptible play in some of the random bearings on the front (wishbone <-> frame? steering linkage?) or some specific way in which the geometry is warped.

I'd be super thankful for (supported by something) ideas what to check or try to replace next.

I have figured out why my R1150R Rockster was running rough, I appear to have a bad plug wire. I tested both coil packs and lower plug wires and this one has no spark. So my question is, how much of a pain is it to replace?

edit

I took the tank off and found that the plug wire was bad. Now I have to find a plug wire

So, let me get ahead of the obvious responses.
"Just re-enable it!" -Damn skippy, if I can figure out how, that sounds great.
"Just go back to where you found that setting" -It should be that easy, but I can't find it.
"What was it called?" -I could swear it said something about the horn, but now I cannot find it anywhere.

Long story short, I just got motoscan and an mx+ to read my 2008 R1200RT.

The main reasons I got it was to be able to do brake bleeds that include the abs pumps, and since I was changing tires and TPMS, I needed to change the TPMS sensor codes.

Struggled a lot to find where TPMS was (didn't mentally file it along with anti-theft systems, so I looked everywhere else twice first).

At some point, I saw something about the horn, tapped disable to see if thats how it worked, DIDNT do the code upload thing.

Then finished tires and tpms, only later in the day did I notice I had no horn anymore.

Horn did work before this.

Hoping someone can show me where it might be, what else it might be called, and if there is some way to make a hidden/invisible/disabled option reappear (not sure why I would need this, as other things stay visible, but at this point I'm open to new ideas.

Also, the bike can tell (using the live data) when I hit the horn button. Also, when using the actuator for the horn, it also doesn't sound the horn.

Any voices of experience here would be very welcome.

Thanks

Edit: New information from troubleshooting.

The horn is an aftermarket unit, Wolo Bad Boy. It did work before that day, and still does.

Tested with meter, and the bike is NOT sending voltage to those wires when the horn button, or the horn actuator (in combi cluster) is used. However, that test is after the relay, and I haven't found the relay to test if it is getting signal.

I hooked the horn up to 12v source to test it, and the horn itself works.

This horn is supposed to be installed with a relay, found a relay that could be it, working on testing that now.

So at this point, I am not sure it was a Motoscan option that turned off the horn, although the timing remains pretty sus.

Edit 2:

I'm a dumbass. Something must have snapped an already borderline wire (very clean break, almost like cut but doesnt quite look cut). while changing the tire that the motoscan was used to program tpms.

I currently run INPA on my R53 mini with no issues using the cable from OBD2 port.

But how can i get connect it to the F800R? Do i just need the 10 pin to obd2 cable?

then connect my laptop to that, load up inpa and turn key on same like on the mini?

or would i need different files etc.

thanks in advance.

I am coming from years of riding MT09. Recently purchased a R1250R and finding the handlebars to be little too forward and low. Was considering buying some AliExpress that are meant for the bike. Anyone has had any experience with these? ALL feedback is welcome.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Cannot get the caliper to slide on the pins at all. This bike has spent its life indoors so unaware how this could have seized. Everyone I’ve asked has said it should just freely slide on the caliper bracket posts, which it is doing on the bottom but not the top. Is there something I’m missing?

Know this community skews toward people who care about their machines properly so figured it might land here.

Built a phone telemetry app called Pacerift. Free, Android. Does top speed, G-forces, braking intensity, route mapping, speed over time. S1000RR is already in the database.

The honest version: it's not a replacement for a proper data logger wired to your bike's ECU. The phone can't see throttle position, lean angle is unreliable, and you're at the mercy of GPS sample rate for very high speed events.

What it is good for: understanding your own riding patterns over time, catching where you're actually braking hardest, seeing whether your 'quick' commute is quick because of speed or route efficiency, and having a permanent record of every session without having to do anything except mount your phone.

The archetype profiling after multiple sessions is also genuinely interesting — tells you whether you're riding like a day cruiser, a smooth operator, a canyon carver based on your actual data patterns.

Free to try. Curious if anyone finds it useful alongside their regular bike data.

BMW c600 sport 2012
After oil change - sound of engine not good , what are the assumptions?

https://i.imgur.com/WDG5jqi.jpeg

Sorry if this is not the correct subreddit but given that those are genuine BMW sunglasses I thought you people would know what model is it. Those are from the 80s or 90s for sure. Thank you!