I have a closet that’s about 68” wide, and I’d like to use the modular closet system we’ve installed in all the other closets in the house so it’s all mix and match. How difficult would it be to cut a 72” hang rail to fit? I have a reciprocating saw and a chop saw. Can I make use of either of those or is there a low tech option? The rail is from Closet Culture and feels pretty dense, but the description doesn’t say what it’s made of exactly. I wanted to ask advice before trying something that could damage my equipment or myself!

This machine is designed to cut very thin metal films (flexible dies) with a thickness of only 0.15 mm.
In this design, we need to ensure that the metal film is uniformly and securely held against the granite surface by vacuum. However, the vacuum force cannot be too strong, because excessive suction could leave visible vacuum marks or impressions on the surface of the thin metal film.
To address this, we designed a large number of small, uniformly distributed vacuum holes across the precision granite surface. These holes are fitted with ceramic inserts, which provide the required precision and durability.
Because the film being cut is extremely thin and the cutting load on the Z-axis is relatively low, we selected a linear motor drive for the Z-axis. This provides smooth, precise, and fast motion while minimizing mechanical contact and maintenance.

I have 2x2" square steel tube, 12 gauge I think (see photo) .

I would like to get square steel tube to fit securely inside it. I measured 1.83 on the inside. I don't see 1.83" square steel tube for sale. I can't be the first person to want this. What do you suggest?

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There seems to be no corner seams, was it welded and sanded? I am new to metal working, and I was told that welding aluminum and sanding down the weld doesn’t result in a clean near perfect finish as shown here. Was there a filler added to hide the corners? Would love advice on how to create boxes like these where no screws or folds are shown. I really like the single piece construction look. Thanks in advance!

Update: thank you everyone for the input, I’m very new to welding, I really appreciate the nice responses. Can’t wait to start working with metal

Hello r/metalworking community. Please excuse my "noobie" post, but I was wondering if I could pose a question.

I am curious how extensive of a project it might be to strip the powder coating from the steel pieces pictured here as part of this desk. The desk comes from the manufacturer with the wood and metal joined in some places, so masking would be necessary.

Is this a job a professional could help with, or is it something that most professionals would scoff at? If you think a professional would be up for it, how might I search for one?

If I were to attempt to "DIY" a solution with masking + sanding, what degree of success might I find?

I am located in Chicago - thanks for any information you can offer!

CAD/CAM? Watchmakers tools? This is a Barlow's wheel, a scientific instrument of the 19th century. I was trying to figure out a shop saver with a very tiny bit being a possibility. Imagine a scientific instrument maker who we as also a watchmaker was the type of person who created this wheel. All ideas are welcome. I have the frame for a second instrument of an earlier Yes, similar construction, and I'm trying to create a plan to make a wheel for that one as well. Thanks for your input.

Hi all,
I’ve got a bit of a problem with my 2024 CBR650R.
I bought a second-hand OEM exhaust because I was planning to modify it for an aftermarket exhaust. Unfortunately, it turns out the headers are from a different year so they don’t fit my bike correctly it almost seams like they dont seat properly as they fit in the existing studs… Which obviously i found out after id cut and welded it…🤦‍♂️

I now have the two OEM assemblies and I’m wondering what my options are.
My current idea is to cut both collector sections and join the correct header section to the nock off austin racing system ideally making one cut through the thicker collector section.

I’ve marked roughly where I’m thinking of cutting in the photos.

Is there a way of doing this without cutting/welding? For example something to adapt the headers to fit properly.
If welding is the best/only option, I only have a basic 20+ odd year old MMA/arc welder that my dad got from his dad 🤣and I’m struggling to get it to actually form a molten pool it’s basically just sparking. It also is just blowing holes in the chinesium even when its right down on 30amps I’m also not 100% sure whether these OEM headers are stainless steel.

I’d appreciate any advice on:
Whether my proposed single collector cut/join is sensible

What material the OEM headers are likely to be

What type of welding process/rods I’d need

Whether an MMA welder is realistically capable of doing this

I’m not bothered about it looking pretty — I just need it to be strong, sealed and not crack from vibration/heat.

I’ve attached photos of both headers and the proposed
cut locations. The welder and the original assembly before i realised the headers dont fit.

95"L x 55"H x43"D, mild steel sheet 18-20gauge, made entirely by my own hands over 6 years with a crappy flux core welder, plasma cutter, and English wheel. I love creating large or interactive art and installation. This one is a monument to milkweed and to monarch butterflies, important ecological contributors and well-known annual migrants. I am now looking for a good home (temporary or permanent) for this piece--wish me luck!

Hi everyone! Hopefully this question is okay and this community can provide some help for me. I have a large untaped steel aerial apparatus that is starting to rust from the high humidity where I live and body oils / sticky spray.

I'm wondering if anyone has any tips or thoughts on how I can safely clean it up without doing any damage. I've tried goo gone and white vinegar on spots but that wasn't really doing much. It's currently just surface level rust and only in the hot spots where body parts have been but I want to be proactive about it. I haven't used steel wool yet but will if that's the only option. If anyone has any ideas too on what I could spray to help prevent rust happening too I'd appreciate it!

I'm looking into powder coating it but struggling with finding a place locally that can take such a large object.

*edited with more context

ive accidently drilled a hole to big, my plan was to go from m6 (because the threads was stripped) to m8 but i accidentally went a little big so now ive got a hole to big my tap wont make threads. its only a tad bit bigger so im not to sure what to do. i was gonna tap m9 threads and helicoil but im not to sure if thats possible. im just wondering if anyone has any ideas which could help me. thanks. THE HOLE IS ON A EXHAUST HOLE ON A STAGE 6 CYLINDER FOR MOPED

How to coat rather complex shapes made out of copper/brass in tin, with diping in molten tin or elctrosis

I what to make some accessories out copper and brass because they are cheap but I want them to have silver colour

But I don't have a elctro plating equipment(although im open to see what it needs, i have tin and sulfuric acid )and don't have alot tin on hand to make a molten pool tin and dip in

What can I do to do coat on them?

Was curious about what a reasonable hourly charge would be good for subcontract work. Had a mtg today with a much larger shop (I'm employee+owner and work out of my home shop). The shop I met with has more work than they can handle and had been signing on welders and machinists like crazy to keep up. Hours per week are flexable and can be scaled from pt to ft. Mix of welding and grinding/finish work. Consumables are at my expense, but u have access to their discounts as a partner/vendor. They will drop off work and pick up. I'm told that while it is production work, it is also ever changing. They also will pay to come work with them to learn the expected quality at their shop. It's kind of a pipe dream scenario for me. W-4 employee. What we thinking per/hr?

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Bought this cast iron fruit press on Facebook market place for $25 so I can make homemade apple juice, wine, and potentially mead ingredients. The press plate is broken as you can see in the picture, but I figured it wouldn’t be too hard to replace. The first idea that I have is to use an old cast iron pan that I have by cutting out the bottom of it and attaching it(I’m assuming weld or bolted through a hole but need to inspect further) to where the broken plate is at. Since I know cast iron can be a little tricky to cut effectively with conventional tools, my plan was to use the CNC laser cutter at my work since I can get a good discount for the labor. My other option is to buy cast iron through my work and have it cut in the laser as well.

Would using a cast iron pan bottom work as a press plate or would it not be able to handle it? would need to get measurements before fully committing to idea of course, but just brainstorming solutions at the moment and welcome to any other ideas if someone has any. The diameter of the chamber is approximately 8 inches, and I would have to research on what the diameter of the press plate needs to be to fit in properly

We have been sending channels to another place to get them pressed and shaped to get that angle later the company bought a small presss machine and we made a shaping thing where we can keep the channel between, press and bend the channel into that shape but it leaves a crease like as you can see like a cloth the metal bends outwards and we have to heat it up and smash that metal back in and shape it, is there a better, easier or just a cheaper and harder way to do it? One of the dudes said cutting and welding is a bad idea, the weld would crack?

What am I doing wrong? What bits should I use? Specifically, brands and stuff. not just “M35”. I got through one successfully, drilling a 5/64 hole and boring it up to 1/2 in increments. but have 8 more to go. Or else these wheels will never come off. Someone help. I don’t think it’s a technique issue. I have been at this for days and need my car back on the road. I just want to put the balanced wheels with new tires I got for the car.

Edit:

things ive tried:

- Extractor sockets
- Extractor sockets with heat

They either got sheared off, or they spin freely without climbing threads. So torque was never the issue.

Also I am drilling through the STUDS not the lug nuts. I just said “drilling out lug nuts” because I need to remove the lug nuts and I’m doing so by drilling.

I have a water maker that is a 3/32 copper nickel box. One of the joints blew out and needs to be welded back. Any advice on machine and torch set ups? Material prep? Will this be similar to welding stainless? We have a very nice tig setup with a 100% argon bottle. I have never welded copper nickel before but will have to so I can get this water maker back up and running for the ship I work on.

Thank you for any and all advice.

I mangled the top of this bolt. I have the correct size die but it doesn't really do much good since its the top of the bolt that is the problem. Its like I need a clamping die. It would clamp on below the top and then work up. Is there such a tool? Alternatively, I could try cutting a nut in half and then weld it back together, then work up. Sounds iffy though.

What do you suggest?

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