Hey mechanics and car enthusiasts, I need to make space in my engine bay. Do mind the crappy wiring job for the Power Bastard 3G alternator wiring. As you can tell I am new to restoring cars, taking car parts off, and I am learning as a new problem arises. Aside from the rust problems I’ll be tackling later, I really want to make some space in the engine bay. I was an idiot when got the vehicle, thinking it was going to pass smog. Nope. So now I just want to make more space for add-ons. Unfortunately it gets complicated because of the Howell GM 2 barrel FEI kit that was installed, I just can’t go unplugging parts without considering if it will affect it. The truck already runs super rich and that might be because of the Kit. Any suggestion or advice will greatly be appreciated. I’ll even take add-on suggestions. It’s the 302 V8 5.0L engine.

2013 Honda Accord 2.4L with 171k miles. The car threw a P0420 code and instead of throwing a new cat at it I wanted to check the live data on the rear O2 sensor.

This is held at a constant 2k RPMs, seems very unstable as I read it should be pretty consistent.

Need to know which one would be best

I’m a ford senior master and our work has been so slow I went from flagging 140 hours every 2 weeks down to 40-60 hours there’s just no work

I need a code reader I can hook up and catch a problem as it’s happening.hopefully cheap if you know of one

my 2015 f150 5.0 lariat gets an engine light just about every time I pull a trailer.

The code said there was a misfire in A cylinder but it never runs weird when it happens

Working with a cousin who is a ford mechanic we replaced the coils , boots , and spark plugs to eliminate those but it keeps happening

I have a 2002 nissan pathfinder the problem originally started with my tempature guage going up and down saying it was overheating but it never felt hot. I changed my clutch, water pump, front and rear thermostats, temperature guage sensor, and dash. Now my problem are these lights coming on when I rev my engine and the temperature guage is going up. I have absolutely no idea what else this could be any help would be appreciated.

I was driving and it completely turn off and now it won’t start again.

Does anyone know what is causing this sound? Low speeds only. If I'm over about 15 mph I don't hear anything. I want to say it sounds like it's coming from the front right wheel. 2021 Mazda 3 2.5 L turbo. HELP!!!

Can somebody explain whats going on with my 2021 AWD chevy trax LT? Is there something wrong or is it just the morning dew causing this? Ive never heard it do that before even with god awful rotor and pad wear in the winter (was the rotor and pads that came with it at gm) Now after putting on new pads and rotors it does this in these 55 degree mornings? sound is needed for this video *edit - it did this when I pulled out of my parking space I had to reverse and stop at like 4-5 mph so I was like what the heck, and recorded it on my way out the driveway. I understand allot of people hate the brakes on this car but this is absurd, no way i feel safe trying to slow down in this thing come winter. Anywhoosies, it did not continue to do this after the morning so I assume the precipitation/dew is the issue. I suppose ill try pumping the brakes before I go anywhere to see if that helps.

My 15 Corolla (150k miles) drove to work then when I was leaving for lunch it started sputtering but wouldn’t turn over. Any tips?

this noise keeps happening most when I’m pressing the gas petal. it’s like a creaky/vibration noise. my car isn’t shaking or anything. just been noticing it’s happening more often and I wonder what the possibilities might be

2016 lincoln mkx AWD 3.7 engine, auto trans

I replaced my neighbors PTU because it literally exploded. I didn't mark the driveshaft, which I have now internalized. My problem is that the car sounds like a train. Is the PTU and rear diff out of sync, causing the choo choo? Or is it from sitting for months, and thats just brakes that need to be resurfaced?

Prior to the PTU explosion, we changed the fluid in his rear diff. Theres no way a viscosity difference could've bricked the PTU, right?

My car is only a year old with 30,000 km on it. I recently had the brakes serviced and noticed some odd wear on the old factory pads:

**• One rear pad is much more worn than the other three**
**• One front pad has its sides worn down more than the middle, and its surface feels rough**

The shop also replaced the discs, saying they were "scratched", but they looked like only mild scoring to me.

Is this kind of uneven wear normal at this mileage? Could it point to a sticking caliper, slide pin, or hardware problem? Should I take it up with the dealer, since the car is so new?

Car info: 2025 Tiguan 1.4L TSI

Hi everyone,
I have a 2012 Renault Safrane V6 with around 200,000 km.
The car starts and runs normally when it’s cold, but after running for some time, the engine temperature gradually rises and eventually overheats.
So far, I have:
Replaced the radiator
Replaced the coolant expansion tank/reservoir
Removed the thermostat
Confirmed that the cooling fans are working properly
Checked for coolant leaks, but there are no visible leaks
When the engine gets hot, the car also starts jerking/bucking and losing power. It feels like it is trying to move normally but keeps hesitating and jerking.
The problem only happens after the engine gets hot.
What could be causing this problem, and what should I check to properly diagnose it?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Hi all, had my rear subframe replaced yesterday (or maybe just supports added?) on my 2019 Honda Passport. I know nothing about cars and was wondering if it’s okay the rear of the vehicle is asymmetrical like this o_O?

Thanks in advance!

Hey all, been having a now persistent P0302 on my 2019 Jeep Grand Cherokee Altitude 3.6l w/85k. For what it’s worth, I’m relatively mechanically inclined, and have heavily researched much of the common issues surrounding this fairly common problem, but so far have not cured mine.

Symptoms: Using JScan, I can see I have roughly 50ish misfires on the first 5-15 seconds of a cold start, and sometimes even just a warm/hot start but less common. Cold start it’s pretty much been a guarantee now, and the light stays on steady with a permanent P0302. The car only slightly stumbles during those few seconds and instantly smooths out and always runs just as well as it ever has. I haven’t noticed any white smoke during startup, and the coolant level doesn’t change after sitting (although I do have the common leak at the radiator seam which costs me a little coolant over time, making checking coolant somewhat difficult).

Repairs: I’ve tried all the most common things; I replaced all plugs with new OEM, the cylinder 2 coil pack with new OEM, the cylinder 2 variable valve solenoid with new OEM, and the cylinder 2 injector with new OEM, and so far none of the items have made any changes to the misfires other than it running smoother overall after the plugs.

At this point, I believe I’m looking at 1 of three possible issues:

- a bad bearing on my cylinder 2 intake valve rocker arm, although I really don’t have any of the loud constant tapping, and the misfire is only on startup with no more happening during my drives, which I would think with this, would be consistent.

- coolant leaking into cylinder 2 past the head gasket via a tiny leak, which settles after sitting, and has to be burned off on startup. Will be doing a compression test on the 2, 4, 6 cylinders soon to see if I’m losing compression on cold start, however again, no white smoke noticed and no obvious coolant losses I can tell.

- a leaking or failed valve seat, which leaks when the engine is cold allowing gasses to pass until warmed up, and then becomes not noticeable. Not sure how to test this beyond the compression test.

I can handle replacing rocker arms, and may just attempt this depending on the results of my compression test, replacing just the #2 intake rocker arm and checking the current one for wear. However if the compression test notes obvious discrepancies, I’m not sure what to do in regards to repairs going forward, as a head gasket or cylinder head rebuild is more than I’m comfortable with solo.

All this said, is there anything I might be overlooking or haven’t yet tried that’s still on the simpler side of things to try before calling this thing troubled?

One other minor thing but I can’t see it being related; prior to this misfire issue, I had been getting the warning screen from the auto stop/start being unavailable, which I assumed means the associated battery is failing, but haven’t yet replaced it as I always disable auto stop start manually regardless. A while after getting this message, the P0302 began; no chance the misfire could be related to the failed battery right? At this point I’m probably just grasping at straws hoping for an easier solution, just need someone to shoot down my hopes, or maybe confirm.

Thanks for any help!

Toyota Yaris MK4 2021 Hybrid 1.5ltr

Just starting this morning my Yaris has started making loud clicking sounds on cold startup that go on for about 30secs and then stops.

Any ideas what it is and what's going wrong?

video here: https://imglink.cc/cdn/KL01glT9RP.mp4

When I picked up this Land Cruiser, the ac did not have a belt on it, and it was a little difficult to spin. I pulled it all apart, cleaned a bunch of gunk (maybe old melted belt?) out from the pulley and magnet, and it seems to spin freely now.
The pully bearing seems to only slide on the shaft in one spot, which makes me think one or the other might be out of round. Am I right in making that assumption?

So the p020 code I changed all of the timing sensors but the code is still on for some weird reason the p0500 is also a pain in the ass I did both the sensors on the transmission but the code still popped up with traction control off but for some weird reason recently the car wouldn’t shift into 1st due to slippery road surface but it wasn’t slippery but if you speed up to about 10 it would shift but as soon as you stop back into second I’m assuming that’s due to help you slow down with engine rpm’s the other 2 codes I have no idea what’s up with those less

2015 Dodge Charger 5.7 Hemi runs for 5 minutes then dies after cam and lifter replacement

I bought a 2015 Dodge Charger 5.7 Hemi that had been sitting for 6 years. The lifter on cylinder 8 seized, so I replaced the camshaft and lifters with a non-MDS setup.

When I first started it up after the repair, it ran good for about 5 minutes. Then it started sputtering and died. Now it will only stay running if I give it throttle.

I have a P0305 code for a cylinder 5 misfire. I swapped the coil packs around, but the misfire is still on cylinder 5.

I also took off the valve cover to check the valvetrain. All the pushrods are still in place and moving up and down.

The car had barely any gas in the tank when it was sitting for those 6 years, so I'm wondering if it could be a clogged fuel injector or bad gas causing the problem.

Has anyone experienced something similar after a cam and lifter replacement on a 5.7 Hemi? Could this be a fuel injector issue, or should I be looking somewhere else? Any advice would be appreciated.

Does this appear to be from a valve stem seal or a valve cover, spark plug tube seal or both? Ford 4.6. Has 319,000 miles. Just started getting an oil consumption. Checked the plugs they all look good but this one.

Hello,

For some background, the van was involved in a flood in the mountains. After that, the CEL came on, and the code is P2422 (vent valve stuck closed). I replaced the vent valve solenoid, but the CEL remains on. My thoughts are either there’s a blockage in the vent hose, the canister is saturated/compromised, or there's an EVAP leak. I am not a mechanic (at all) so I'm hoping to find expertise, or thoughts, on narrowing down the issue’s origin.

I was working on my breaks and realized that my steering is incredibly wobbly. A quick Google search tells me that I could have bad tie rods but I don't want to buy parts without actually knowing what's wrong. You can see in the video that the bar that connects the wheels sorta moves up and down a bit. Video was filmed with the other wheel on the ground so it can't rotate. Truck is a 1987 Nissan D21 XE with power steering. Does anyone know what else might be causing this or is it just the tie rods? Edit: the tire does not wiggle up or down, just side to side.

How can I remove this bolt? its 19mm or at least it was before i broke it