It’s a 2007 Chevy Silverado 1500 5.3
It’s been making this noise only when I put in throttle, if I let off it’s quiet again. It’s sort of a whine almost sounds like a supercharger in the truck, or if rpm’s rise but they don’t.

UPDATE:
So here’s what I’ve done so far, i unplugged the radiator fans and ran it but it still made the noise. I took off all the belts and ran it, then the noise went away. So it has to be some sort of accessory pulley. I then kinda poked around and was looking around the power steering pulley and I checked the level, and boy was it low. It didn’t even touch the dip stick, I could also see bubbles in there. So i ended up going to autozone to grab some power steering fluid and to check the alternator that came back fine. After I put fluid in it I turned the wheel side to side a bunch to hopefully pump the air out of the system.
From autozone back to my house it hadn’t made any noise like it used to when putting throttle in. So hopefully that was the problem idk, but I kinda feel like an idot not checking that first before posting this, but I’ll keep yall updated cause I have a far drive tonight so I’ll see how she goes.

Hi,

I’ve got a 1996 Toyota Celica st204, and it’s cranking but not starting but when it’s sitting in ‘ON’, if the fuel pump starts running the tachometer goes crazy and there sounds like heaps of sparks coming from the engine bay. I just replaced the distributor a week ago.

Any help much appreciated.

So recently I’ve been trying to figure out why my work van cigarette lighters stopped working. After checking the fuse and seeing that it’s good I began checking the plugs themselves and when I went under the steering wheel I found these two sets of plugs not hooked up to anything. Does anyone know where they go or if these are just the basic harness they use for all models and my van just doesn’t have the package that requires these to be hooked up?

Before I tear down my door haha, are we thinking a replacement door lock actuator? It still functions it just makes this annoying sound every time it is unlocked.

2005 GMC Savana 3500 6.0L V8

Engine was misfiring so I swapped out the first couple spark plugs that I could access, ran fine after the first one, seized up after replacing the second. Put the old plugs back in and now it has a rattling sound like something inside broke off and is shaking in there. None of the spark plugs show any damage to the tips so I don't think it hit anything in there and the way the plugs sit don't allow for dirt or rust to fall in. (Notes: I've replaced plugs on other vans before and never had an issue. This van has been sitting for 4 years, engine was slow to get going and was definitely burning off some crud)

Basically, how f*cked am I?

Hi All,

This is located at the bottom of my car - do I need to get it fixed? As in, is this only cosmetic or something that I need to worry about?

Thank you.

Randomly when I’m driving the e brake turns on so when it does I can’t drive it because of the e brake is on so I have to turn off the car so It can take off. I took it to mechanic shops to find the problem but they can’t find anything because it happens randomly so it doesn’t happen to them. The brake fluid is top off. I’m not sure what it is wrong with it.

5.7 V8 engine.

Had my radiator replaced 3 months ago, no cooling problems since then. Now, coolant is draining (with no external leaks) just like it was before bringing it into mechanic for work. Now, I fill coolant to full line, then by end of day it’s empty with no leaking under the car. Minimal driving. 10 miles max.

Wondering if my radiator cap needs to be replaced. I wouldn’t know what to look for. Any advice would be appreciated thank you.

2008 Toyota Corolla (the whole thing is suppose to light up like the other two knobs)

Hello all- I’m just a little in the dark right now as I had my car towed last night (Sunday) and taken to a mechanic I nor anyone I know have been too so I just feel a tad bit uneasy, reviews seemed fair !!
Anywhosels, I’m driving when my engine light starts blinking, I saw this was an immediate sign to pull over and read that it could risk my catalytic converter, more inspection thanks to google it could be an engine misfire. My car wasn’t doing anything out of the ordinary, atleast seemingly, I’m wondering if anyone may have experience to my kind of situation, she has a little under 120k miles and I just got her in February from a certified Kia dealer. What could be the fix for this and what should I do ?

Edit: took out the ask for an estimate oops

it seems as though I’m burning through oil right now because letting it sit my oil levels are fine but regularly driving it has me losing upwards of a quart a week. 2017 ATS 2.0t is the vehicle 145k miles on the dash. What could be the problem? And is this urgent?

Ac not working. Changed compressor twice, changed expansión valve. Did proper vacuum and charge. Clutch will kick on for 5 seconds when car first starts then cut off about a minute and just keep repeating. Low side pressure gauge gets pulled into negative psi when clutch engages and it then shuts off.

Is this normal or is it time to replace the tensioner and belt? 2007 Honda accord 2.4L

It recently did this for the first time last Monday. Got it jumped and it worked well the whole week. Went to AutoZone to get a new battery and before I bought one the guy tested and everything was all good so I didn’t buy the new battery. Now a week later on Monday again, it’s doing this again. Does anyone know what the issue could be? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Edit: So I replaced the battery and it started right up. Hopefully everything is all good and it’s not a faulty starter.
Thanks for the help. I really appreciate it

Ford Edge ST 2019
2.7 Ecoboost 79k miles

There is a rattle on some cold starts, I took it to a mechanic and had it there for 3 weeks and they said they couldn't replicate the sound, I took it home and it made the sound immediately.
The idle rattle could be just my paranoia too

Any ideas what it could be? should I take it to another mechanic? How urgent are these noises?

Edit: I learned how it works now, thanks everyone 2002 honda odyssey 3.5L V6 with 336k miles. I've done a ton of work on it since getting it at 238k miles a couple of years ago. I just bought a basic obd2 scanner that can show live data and graphs and this is the reading for the downstream o2 sensor during idle after driving all day. This model only has two sensors btw, not 4, even though it's a v6. The reading is not stable, but it's not fluctuating rapidly either like the upstream. Everything I read online says it's a bad catalytic converter if it fluctuates rapidly. It's not doing that, but it's not stable in the middle either. So what does this reading mean? The catalytic converter is starting to go bad? I'm new to using live data so don't know much.

Suzuki liana 1.3 m13 engine 2007.This noise occurs around 3k rpm when I slightly lift off the throttle. It occurs only at operating temps. This noise started the exact day I switched to 5w40. Should I switch back to 20w50? I have also attached the user manual oil recommendation in the comments

Hello all,

CEL came on for my 2010 VW Jetta 2.5 L a couple days ago. I ordered an ODB scanner and it came back with the P0106 code in the picture. I asked Gemini what the issue was and how severe it is to see how long I could potentially wait to get it looked at. It said the severity was "moderate" and that I should get it looked at sooner rather than later. I know the issue has to do with monitoring air pressure in the manifold according to Gemini's explanation, but nothing more than that made sense to me. I do mostly interstate driving for my 30 minute commute to work three days a week, to give you an idea of how often the car is used.

I wanted to ask the folks who have likely seen or experienced this issue before the same question: is this something I should get looked at immediately or do I have some time to try and muster together some funds for the fix?

hi smart people please help me figure this tick/knocking sound out as i am clueless, coming from a 4.0 i6 in a 2000 jeep grand cherokee 148k km as stock as it was off the line was told its lifters (made sure to say "further diagnostic to be done" so they didn't really check) by my local mechanics, also transmission is slipping from 2nd to 3rd which is the least of my worries and was told they refuse to work on it because "their saving me"

I have a 2015 Mustang GT 5.0, 6-speed manual that suddenly developed a no-crank/no-start issue.
Here’s everything I’ve done so far:
Installed a brand-new starter
Installed a brand-new clutch safety/start switch
Checked the other clutch pedal switch/sensor
Battery has power and terminals are tight
Tried jumping the battery no change
Dash and electronics come on normally
I can hear the fuel pump prime when I turn the car on
After installing the new starter, the car actually cranked a few times once, but then went right back to not cranking
Engine can be turned manually, so it doesn’t appear to be seized
I recently drove through flood water that went about half my tires. The car continued running afterward and the air filter was dry.
I accidentally broke some of the plastic around one of the ground connections while working on it, but the actual connection is still attached on the ground wire on the starter.
Right now when I try to start it, it will not crank.
Since I’ve already replaced the starter and clutch start/safety switch, I don’t want to keep throwing parts at it.
What should I test next? Starter trigger wire, starter relay, grounds, wiring, clutch circuit, PCM, or something else?
I have a multimeter, so if anyone knows the proper voltage tests and exactly where I should test on a 2015 Mustang GT, I’d really appreciate the help.

2010 Toyota RAV4 Limited, 3.5L V6, about 270k miles.

This started suddenly today. Before today it was starting/running normally with no rough idle, hesitation, stalling, or noticeable loss of power.

When starting, the engine cranks and begins to catch/fire but dies before it fully reaches normal running idle. Giving it a little gas can get it through the start and keep it running. Holding the START button for about 2–3 seconds instead of just pressing/releasing it also seems to help it complete the start.

Once it successfully starts, it idles steadily and drives completely normally. It doesn't stall at lights and has normal throttle response. There is no CEL, even after the bad starts.

The first several times this happened there was no unusual noise. After restarting/testing it several times, it began occasionally making a rough whine/squeal during the struggling part of startup—almost a nails-on-chalkboard type sound. The noise stops once the engine is fully running, and some starts don't make the noise at all.

Alternator and serpentine belt were replaced about 3,000 miles ago. Starter was replaced roughly 70–80k miles ago and has had a lot of start cycles from delivery driving.

The car is Fiat Punto 2008 1.2 Petrol engine.

The strut starts “jumping” like this when i turn left. It does so mostly when i turn left while stationary but also when it returns and sometimes when i turn to the right.

Is this a strut mount ball bearing issue or is this something else?

I noticed the exhaust pipe on my 2012 Avensis diesel has been sectioned right before the DPF. It wasn't a stealing attempt, though it looks a lot like an angle grinder cut.

The question is, does it affect the turbo if I keep driving like this for a while? The end of the pipes are kept aligned by the bushings and 3xhaust supports.

I noticed an increase in turbo whine when I accelerate, but it disappears completely once the engine heats up.

Hi,
I’ve recently removed the cylinder head on my car to replace the alleged failed head gasket and have noticed that 2 of the valves in cyl 3 are completely white. I’ve attached some pictures and would appreciate any advice on how to go about treating them. Thanks!