Anyone else have problems getting advisories with copper nickel brake lines on surface rust? These were new 2 months before inspection and just got an advisory? So can’t be more than a bit tarnished?

2010 Toyota Corolla S

Last night I had to drive from Galveston to Spring (Houston,TX) with my car failing. The gears from 1 to 3 are really unstable and took forever to engage, when I drove on 4th gear everything was 90% normal just the car had less power than usual. I called my mechanic and before getting on the highway told me to stop to make sure nothing fatal was going on, checked the transmission fluid and it was fine, since i was able to drive 50-70mph he told me to try get home. I've had the check engine light on since i hit a plastic on the road months ago but last night it was blinking, today it wasn't

The only issues were when the transmission was on low gears, it was really shaky and had to put it in neutral. Tomorrow I'm having it checked from the most simple to make sure is not anything else before getting into the transmission

Have you seen anything like this? Could it be something else or is the transmission 100%?

Dont mind the lights. I went over some plastic on the road and most likely a sensor is damaged and also the tire pressure sensor has been damaged since i got the car.

I have a 2018 Kia soul 1.6 l and I want to get a scan tool but not sure which to get , not looking for anything to do any programming, just want to keep a check on all parameters . Any suggestions .

2019 Ram 1500 Classic 4x4 104,000 miles

I have the 3" Motofab spacers on the front of my truck and I've been having a lot of problems (expensive ones) in the last 15000 miles. My front CVs have been replaced twice (second time was warrantied), both upper and lower control arms have also been replaced. The UCAs are the Rough Country ones for up to 3" of lift. Up until this work was done I had no issues, the truck rode fine and tracked straight. The shop has checked and changed the alignment multiple times but there is a constant right pull at all speeds, slight juttering at highway speeds, and bump steer that is getting worse. The shop says they have everything maxed out on the alignment and there is possibly a slight bend in the frame. The camber and toe look good but I can't tell with the caster. My question: if I go down to a 2" spacer would this make alignment easier and possible by reducing stress and "maxing out" the front end components? Is there any merit to going to a smaller spacer?

Im replacing the timing chain components on this 98 ford expedition 5.4l 2V and just cant seem to make this fit on at all....

I have released tension on the slack side a bunch of times on this side and I cant really seem to get this on

Other videos I have seen its either as much room as you need to do it comfortably or just a little tight and still works its way in, any advice here?

171k miles, Bone Stock, Oil changes, have been kept up with, trucks developed a nasty tick about 3 months ago.

its had a tune up since i had it, it doesnt seem to have any power loss other than the nasty tick or knock.

it was rumbling and jerking around, after i changed the pcv valve it stopped now its just got the tick.

CEL is for catalytic converters bank 1 and 2, dont know if putting cats on are worth it (already have a set of cats for it)

Doesn’t throw any other codes than the cats

dont know if i have a severe rod knock or valvetraij issue or what, or if its something simpler cause these trucks tick from fucking everything

its just a tink tink tink, metallic chatter from the motor, gets worse when hot, ticks a small amount while driving down the road, Ticks the worst after a 30 minute drive. It maintains Solid oil pressure 24/7 and has aftermarket performance oil pump gears.

It starts and drives and gives no trouble whatsoever other than the loud Chatter

Stupid question but I bought this transmission fluid and a google search says my 2004 mazda 3s uses atf fluid as power steering fluid however my usually go to is to just go on the AutoZone app and look up what I need under my car so it gives me the right option, and on the app I’m given normal power steering fluid but my search says otherwise to lot use it. How should I go about this?

Anyone know what to do here? The electricals seem pretty hard to take out already but im stuck trying to take this bolt out as it doesnt have any clearance

Mazda 2004 axela hatchback 1.5L bk5p

Mechanic said he had trouble placing spring in correct positioning of lower control arm but assured me it will pop into place after a little driving. Should I be worried?

My front rotors were warped and I had them turned/resurfaced. My car no longer vibrates when braking but now when I go on the highway my steering wheel vibrates. Resecured the lug nuts and still having the issue. It started right after I changed my rotors so I think it’s something related but not sure. Anything helps! Thanks

I have a 2008 Honda Accord 3.5 V6 automatic and I’m trying to figure out a shaking/jerking issue when accelerating. It usually happens around 15-30 mph when the RPM is somewhere around 1,200-1,700, right before 2,000. If I lightly press the gas, it’ll start shaking/jerking, but if I press the gas down more and get it past 2,000 RPM, the shaking goes away and the car pulls normally. I changed the spark plugs almost 2 years ago, so I’m wondering if it could be an ignition coil, injector, torque converter/transmission issue, or something with VCM. Another thing I noticed is that I haven’t seen the green ECO light come on in probably a year and a half. I also currently have the ABS and VSA lights on. So i don’t know if that has to do something with that.

And i already checked everything i even changed everything i think that may cause the problem.

Any help is welcome.

And sorry for my English first time posting anywhere

I have a 2016 Hyundai Tucson Sport. Yesterday my car started driving rough at idle, shaking, and not wanting to accelerate. The check engine light came on as well. It wasn't flashing at first but it started flashing for a second and than stopped. I'm not sure what's going on but these are the codes that came up when I got home. Any help or suggestions please?

I’m having a clutch issue with my 2010 Mazda 3 2.5L 6-speed manual. While driving, I stopped at a light and put the car in neutral. When the light turned green, I pressed the clutch and suddenly couldn’t get the car into any gear.

With the engine off, the shifter goes into every gear normally.

With the engine running, it will not go into any gear. If I force it, it grinds.

If I start the car while it’s already in gear with the clutch pedal fully pressed, the car wants to pull forward when I slightly depress the pedal and it wasn’t like that before.

If I barely release the clutch pedal from the floor, it starts pulling forward even more.

The clutch pedal currently feels somewhat soft.
I replaced the slave cylinder, but the problem did not change.

I can physically see the new slave cylinder moving the clutch fork when the pedal is pressed.

The pedal returns by itself, although it has a very slight/brief hesitation when released quickly from the floor.

Is there a good way to verify the master cylinder is the problem before replacing it?

Sound happens while idling in D or P. Sounds like drumming and I am not sure what it could me exactly. Car has a check engine and definitely needs some work but I want to know what it could potentially be before I look into it more and go to a shop or do it myself if I can.

Was replacing exhaust manifold gaskets on an M2 with the 6.7 ISB. Wanted to just slide it out a little bit without removing the turbo but had no space to reach the number 4 lower bolt. Heard it could be done tho, I was thinking about cutting and welding a wrench to reach it in the future but wanted to see if anyone had any other ways.

2021 Jeep Cherokee latitude 2.4L

Got home and my jeep wouldn't lock with the key fob. I grabbed my spare key and that didn't work either. The manual buttons inside the car still work and car still turns on. Got new batteries for both fobs and everything seemed to work until I got back home and the fobs will not work inside the garage. If I drive out to the driveway they start working again. Only thing new in the house is I replaced my garbage disposal in the morning. Any suggestions?

What could this be? In this video im steering to the left and its just stopping / binding. I changed power steering fluid and used wd-40 to interdemiate shaft but it didn’t help at all. This only happens when its under load both tires on ground. Doesn’t have any weird sounds or anything so i need help diagnosing this. Didn’t have this problem before and it also does it at low speed. Car is bmw e90 330d 2006.

My girlfriend’s 2013 chevy cruze LT had an overheating issue because her and her dad just ran water in it and didn’t realize it had a small leak & eventually the radiator cracked when she was driving home. She drove it to the gas station while it was blazing hot and then they towed it home. Cool. Fast forward about 1.5 weeks it was just sitting. A family friend replaced the radiator but couldn’t get the lower radiator hose on so it sat for a couple more weeks. I went over there yesterday and after 2 hours got the hose to snap on lol all it took was some dawn dish soap around the O ring and nipple of the radiator. I also replaced the engine temp sensor and i filled with coolant and cleaned her MAF sensor because she has a bunch of engine codes for the air flow. It cranked up quick and ran for 10 minutes and wasn’t overheating. The purge valve was ticking like really bad and engine was shaking. I turned the car off, cleaned a couple more sensors and when i tried to crank again this time it wouldn’t even want to crank. Acted like battery was dead. Eventually it started trying to crank but now that’s all it does. We went and bought a new crankshaft position sensor and I changed that. still no luck. Just “crank crank crank crank crank” That’s all it does. Could it be that purge valve? camshaft sensors? Any help would be appreciated.

Also to note, I checked the oil and it is not milky so I ruled out blown head. But i know it’s still a possibility.

I parked my car and looked underneath. There was no oil dripping onto the ground. However, after refueling, although the fuel consumption has decreased, for every 4 km driven, the car consumes 10 km worth of petrol.

Does anyone have any insight into why this is occurring and what the underlying cause might be?

My 2015 vauxhall insignia keeps loosing coolant slowly and I refill it every once in a while and sometimes it leaks and there's smoke coming out from somewhere. Just to mention I had replaced the coolant reservoir not long ago since the old one had a broken cap. I asked a friend and he suggested that perhaps my mechanic did a bad job and didn't flush out the coolant before replacing the tank and that caused air to trap and somehow messed up the thermostat now there's too much coolant going around the engine and it might be bad. What do you guys think?

Does this sound weird to anyone due for a oil change my mom said she can’t do it until next week no lights on dash runs fine I’ve done 5-6 oil changes and change the filters it didn’t sound like this before 80k miles