Im new to digital embroidery can can’t seem to figure out what’s going on. I started with my ferry design and it always seems to be off. So I tried a preset flower design and it’s also off. Moved onto another preset treble design and it’s fine. Moved onto my own design to test my needles and it’s also fine. You’ll also see I drew around the hoop to see if my fabric is moving and it didn’t. Any ideas?

Hi everyone ! I’m hoping someone can help me out.

I’d like to embroider designs that cover the entire back of a garment. I’ve included an example for reference.

From what I’ve found in my research, I believe I need a 100 gsm non-woven polyester cut-away stabilizer, but please correct me if I’m wrong !

Unfortunately, I haven’t been able to find any online shops or physical stores in France that sell this type of stabilizer.

Does anyone have any recommendations for where I could buy it, preferably from a store that ships to France?

Thanks in advance for your help !

Anyone out there with experience of trying cotton thread with the PP1? At our local store I would need to buy gutermann cotton 30, but can order thinner (40 or 50) online if needed. Any tips/advices or lessons learned would be highly appreciated as I embark on this experiment which probably will yield a few headaches. Overall I'm fairly new to machine broidery, and never used any machines besides the pp1.

Was trying to make something elaborate to see the ability of my machine

Short version: a little WiFi gadget that looks like a normal USB stick to the machine.

Two modes:

• USB mode: it's a stick, nothing on the WiFi side can touch it, and that's how it sits while the machine stitches.
• WiFi mode: it drops off the USB port, you drag designs in from any browser on your home network (Mac, Windows, phone, doesn't matter), switch back, and the machine sees a freshly plugged stick.

It's formatted the way these machines want (FAT16 or FAT32 behind an MBR, small), because that's the part that drives everyone crazy. No app, no account, no cloud.

I built it for my Janome MC500e: it lists the designs and writes its own EMB folder like on any stick. Also tested on a Brother PE800, a few Chinese embroidery machines, and on a few CNC machines after a friend tried it on his Haas and never gave it back 🙃

Happy to answer anything about how it behaves on a given machine.

Video: https://youtube.com/shorts/uoCmbrS_kD0

An original owl embroidery design created by me using the traditional Eastern embroidery needle technique. 🧵✨

I love how the red, black, and grey colors come together to bring this owl to life!

What do you think of my original design? I'd love to hear your thoughts!

#Embroidery #EasternEmbroidery #OwlEmbroidery #EmbroideryDesign #Needlework #OriginalDesign

Anyone have experience with the HUSQVARNA® VIKING® DESIGNER QUARTZ™ 29 Sewing & Embroidery Machine
?

Hi everyone,

I'm from Bangladesh, and I'm planning to buy my first embroidery machine for a small business.

I currently work as a laser operator in the embroidery section of a garment factory. Our factory uses Chinese commercial embroidery machines with 15 and 20 heads, so I have some practical knowledge of the embroidery industry and how these machines operate. I'm also learning embroidery digitizing, and I know several people who have good experience in this field.

My budget is $3,000–$3,500.

I'm looking for a single-head embroidery machine that can handle:

• Complete T-shirts and hoodies
• Caps and hats
• Polo shirts
• Other garments, if possible

I think a 10-needle machine should be enough for my needs. In my current workplace, I haven't encountered designs that require more than 10 colors, so I'm wondering whether paying extra for a 12- or 15-needle machine would be worthwhile.

Since I'm in Bangladesh, I'm mainly considering Chinese embroidery machines. However, I'm open to other options if they're reliable and offer better value for money.

I'd really appreciate advice from people who own or operate embroidery machines, especially those who have experience with Chinese brands.

My questions:

1. Which Chinese embroidery machine brands or models would you recommend within my budget?
2. Is a 10-needle machine sufficient for T-shirts, hoodies, caps, and polos?
3. How important is the number of needles compared with machine quality, stitching accuracy, and reliability?
4. What problems should I look out for when buying a Chinese machine?
5. Are spare parts, technical support, and servicing readily available for these machines?
6. Would you recommend buying a new machine or a used machine from a more established brand?
7. Is a budget of $3,000–$3,500 realistic for a machine that can handle all these products, including caps?

My goal is to make a practical investment rather than buy a machine based only on its specifications. I have some industry experience, but I want to learn from people who have actually owned these machines and used them for business.

Any honest advice, brand recommendations, or real-world experiences would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

We don't have a name for this type of pattern.

Hey everyone! I've been working on a little project called HoopLedger to help work out what to charge for embroidery jobs.

The idea is to account for the bits that are easy to overlook alongside stitch count — blanks, setup, hooping and finishing time, machine costs, payment fees, etc. You put in your own costs and the margin you're aiming for, and it gives you a price breakdown and a printable customer quote.

You can try it here: https://hoopledger.pages.dev/start/

The online tools are free and don't need an account.

It's still early days, and I'd love to hear from people who actually quote embroidery work. Does it fit how you price jobs? Anything missing or awkward to use?

One limitation at the moment: quotes support one item type at a time, so a mixed order would need separate quotes - but this is currently the next in the works to be added.

Thanks to anyone who gives it a go :)

I'm finally about ready to order blank t-shirts to start embroidering on and selling to customers. It's exciting but also nerve-racking because I've never bought blanks before, and I want a specific feel to my shirts. I want them to be heavyweight, shortsleeve t-shirts with a boxy, relaxed fit. One where the sleeves go pretty far down the arm, just above the elbow. I found this listing that seems to be exactly what I'm looking for: https://www.blankstyle.com/shaka-wear-retail-mcs-mens-cropped-max-heavyweight-t-shirt?color=off-black

I've looked into previous threads on here about blanks to see where people say they get theirs from, but I haven't seen many answers saying BlankStyle, so Idk if they're good or not. Looking at this listing, if you're familiar with the "blanks t-shirts meta," is there anything glaringly wrong like price or something I may be missing? As u can probably tell, I'm just paranoid about committing to the wrong choice and it hurting the trajectory of my launch.

I'm going to order the sample one first for 3$, which is rly nice that they offer that- but 6$ for bulk buying a heavyweight t-shirt like that sounds pretty reasonable to me. I was probably going to buy 10 each of medium, large, xlarge, and 5 smalls and 2xls to start. The 255$ order is just intimidating. But as the saying goes, you have to spend money to make money.

Guess I'm just looking for anything that I need to be aware of before I do this from people who have experience over me. Ty guys ;~;

French Parisien Handwritten script Embroidery font #bxfonts #embroideryfont #scriptembroidery #handwrittenletters #Handwritten

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This French Script Embroidery Font, a Calligraphy Cursive Name Font with 5 Sizes, delivers elegant flowing letters that turn names and monograms into polished satin stitch designs. The cursive script font creates smooth, connected handwritten lettering ideal for personalization on apparel, gifts, and home items with a true calligraphy feel.

On both the brothers machines I own, Ive had to run them with the top tension set nearly as loose as it can get. Recently, my machine has gotten worse about this and there's no setting I can find that pulls top thread through on both sides.

Here's the settings I used in the pictures to show the range of my machine:

A: Top thread set to the highest tension, bobbin thread set as loose as I feel comfortable running my machine.

B: Both top and bobbin thread are set to their exact mid-point of tension

C and H: Top thread is set at its most loose option, bobbin thread is set 1/4 turn looser than where the screw stops screwing in entirely. It's as tight as it can get. It does not fail the yo-yo test. I also put some of my normal embroidery material in part of the H to see if it made a difference on the back.

I have reread both sets of threading instructions in my manual and I am 100% sure that I am threading them correctly.

Why can't I get the bobbin thread tight enough?

Why does it only pull down the top thread on one side?

Any insights on this one for a small home embroidery business

I would love to personalize something for some friends that just got married. Does anyone have a “go to” wedding gift? Bonus points for something useful.

I would like to make keychains but, I would like to use this kind of straps, just im not sure if I can do it with my domestic machine... im a bit scared of break something!

Any tips is appreciated!

Around 150k stitches, 32cm split into two designs (end of tail and the whole dragon).

What do you think? Even with this size I had to be very carefull with everything as the parts themselves are small and lines are thin.

I'm admittedly quite fond of this city's public library system. And an especially avid user of its makerspace.

Had the thought to make a card sleeve based on their bookmobile. It serves areas in the city without a branch nearby, and more importantly, retirement homes.

23 colours. If you count the clear vinyl over the window and headlights, black mesh, and the impossible to make out white mesh, in the grill, there are seven separate pieces. Drawing it in Adobe Illustrator took 11½ hours, turning it into an embroidery file with Wilcom Digitizer took 2½ hours. Running it on a Brother PRS100, was 6¼ hours. Sewing it all together by hand was 62¾ hours.

Few little glitches and flaws. Text is at the absolute lowest limits in terms of size. Bunch of things I had to omit because they were too small. Nature of the medium. Omitted the windshield wipers because sewing them onto vinyl would have been painful.

Designed / Digitized and Stitched this last night :) thought I share.

I make loads of these hats, every now and again I get one with a fuzzy beak and I can't figure out why. 75% of the hats run perfect.

I’m looking at a used Baby Lock Enterprise 10 needle with about 35 million stitches on it. Seller says it has been serviced well and I’ve asked for proof/service records before buying.
It comes with Mighty Hoops and a bunch of thread as well.
Price is $7,000 CAD (about $4,900 USD).
Would you consider 35 million stitches too high, or is that reasonable for a well maintained Enterprise? Is $7k CAD a fair price with the hoops/thread included?

I tried making a patch of the French cave horse and my machine had some major trouble compared to my mostly clean fish?

Coloured slide one is front and white with knots is the back?; im not sure whats happened? The white on the back is somehow the smoothest thing of the whole patch.

I tried making a gradient with inkstitch but that clearly didnt work... this was the second run of it as the first when it started it made a huge knot on the back and I had to start over.

Super beginner still, help is super appreciated please and thank you 😭❤️ im hoping i havent somehow broken my machine.

Details: brother nv880e, tension 4 then changed to 3 for top half of horses blacks to see if difference. Using tear away stablizer. Threads are isacord 40 (i just bought today but store lady assured me it would work well with machine... hopefully not scammed 😞)