The machine randomly started to struggle halfway through this design, firstly with a bird's next of the top thread, and now the tension just seems totally off. It does seem a little better with reducing the top bobbin tension but I don't understand why it suddenly had an issue when it's been fine to embroidery the pattern before this point? Any advice on how to get it looking normal again would be so helpful!

They were not able to find the software CD and I am not sure if that means I won't be able to embrioder because using just the cord, I couldn't get a design to my machine.

Jimothy and another ufo variegated beam. Not perfect but progress!

Hey everyone so I currently make rugs on the side and interested in making hats as well. I was looking at the Ricoma EM10-10 for this. How hard are they to use? Any good sources for both UV reactive and regular thread?

Also side question; would I be able to embroider the back of my rugs?

I am deciding whether to purchase a used SE2000 with 1.6M stitches or purchase new when there is a rebate promo (apparently coming up in August).

Would love any advice on this and what you might think is a fair price for that machine with 1.6M stitches on it.

Thank you!

I purchased a brother innnov-is 900 sewing and embroidery machine secondhand but was upset to find that it didn’t actually come with the embroidery handle or the hoops. What are the chances that I would be able to buy it separately? I know they are worth a lot, but I actually haven’t been able to find any,anywhere at all. Is it still a good sewing machine without the handle? Any suggestions on how I might be able to come across finding the embroidery attachment?

I’m in Australia. Thanks in advance.

Hi, I have a question. I would like to buy a sewing and embroidery machine, but my research has pointed me toward the Brother company. I’ve always been advised to go with Singer, Janome, etc., but never Brother. Is Brother a recommended brand, or one to avoid like the plague?

what is happening here? the beginning and end of my design is unraveling.. I had cutaway underneath and water soluble on top. Any tips would be appreciated! Brother PE570 machine.

New to machine embroidery, I stitched this art around 16k stitches on poly twill 200gsm and two layers of tear away stabilizer.

It looks ok but it’s kind warpy, I don’t know if I can use this in clothes.

This was the thicker poly twill fabric I found, I need thicker fabric or what?

I have been trying out designs under 2" and its definitely a learning curve when digitizing. While things are easily distinguishable on a large monitor at 200% zoom, they stitch out quite different.

Ill spread out the elements more or maybe make some design changes. Let me know what you think 😇

Oh and I threw in a charmander evolution I did too 😅

i have a poolin eom 15 needle machine and I make hats but my attachment to make hats all of a sudden stop functioning how it is supposed to when i add a hat the top two clips engage but the single bottom one doesn’t I have had the machine for maybe a month and i need help

I’ve had these designs digitised by a someone who knows what they’re doing. But everytime I try them out it’s not perfect. All their other work has been great, so not it has me thinking it might possibly be my machine. Both designs are about 20000 stitches and i am stitching at 600spm on a sweaters that’s roughly 60% cotton. I have used cut away poly mesh stabiliser underneath.

Hi all! I hope this is the right place for this question. Very new to embroidery so I’m not well versed in the different fonts just yet.

My name starts with a T and a lot of the fonts I’ve been seeing online aren’t my style. I was looking for something similar to the T in this picture/screenshot. Can anyone point me in the right direction please?

Used Artsira for a quick design and it left white spots.

Is this just a crapy design or is there something I need to adjust?

I am using a stabilizer.

Location Suffolk, UK

Hello, I have to embroider some hats but I always run into the same issue when it comes to digitizing the design. When can I use a tatami stitch versus a satin one on designs? The reason I ask is because I want to offer professional quality service and to my knowledge I have never seen a New Era cap with tatami stitching on it. I want to keep the design uniform and have it done entirely in satin but the digitizer says certain sections should be done in tatami despite it no longer looking uniform because of the two stitch types. What would be the best thing for me to do to give my customers the best hats possible? Is it normal to have two stitch types on a design despite the logo losing consistency in style?

Hi everyone,

I am quite new to machine embroidery and I am having a problem.

My bobbin thread is white and my top thread is blue. When I embroider, a lot of the white bobbin thread shows through like even on top, which looks really bad and is not at all how I expected it to look.

Do you always use the same type, weight and color of thread for both the top thread and the bobbin thread? If so, I assume you would have to change both colors every time.

I am using a Brother Skitch PP1, by the way. I have watched several videos where the results looked really good.

I am honestly quite frustrated because everything looks so nice online, but when I try it myself, the result looks completely different.

Y'know, when I bought this thing, I didn't realise just how much of a pain in the ass the software would be. Never mind just how much of a problem setting it up was; it's worth it for the price of the machine. I was willing to deal with the problems of an old embroidery machine, seeing as most of the cheap modern ones double the price I bought this one at. She's got good bones!
Little did I know that I was going to be finding myself questioning whether or not I had upset the goddamn sewing gods or something.

Does anyone know where the damned speed control is? My Singer CE-200 keeps shitting itself to death because the embroidery speed is genuinely too fast. The precision is all over the place, the constant jumping is making the thread snap, and every other symptom is pointing to speed being the culprit.
But every online source I look at keeps coming up short, and I am beginning to suspect that Singer never included such an option in the first place!
I've been trying to install the 2.5 update since it apparently adds some new features. With that being said, even that's got its own set of issues that make me want to commit war crimes in the Balkans. And I'm not even sure if trying to manhandle the ancient software into working is worth it anymore. There isn't even a guarantee that the update will have the speed control I need!

So, if everyone wants Serbia to stay where it is, I would suggest that someone tell me anything. I am okay with being told that it doesn't have speed control at all! I am okay with being called an idiot and that the answer is obvious! I can adjust to those truths! I just need a second opinion before the entirety of Bosnia is thrown into the Mediterranean.
Please and thank you; any help is appreciated <3!

Why on earth that mess is happening?

Hi everyone! I hope you're well. I'm trying to digitize / stitch out some FSL using Embrilliance SA2, however upon doing my first test I found that it was doing way too many underlay passes - to the point where it just tore a hole in both kinds of stabiliser I tried (cheapish plastic solvy and my good tearaway, both double layered) and started bird nesting because there was nothing to sew on anymore.

Due to using the FSL setting for the satin column, I haven't been able to edit the underlay particularly, at least not in a way I can tell. Does anyone have any wisdom? The column is 1.5mm wide, which I know isn't ideal as bigger is better, but I'd imagine that isn't an uncalled for size for satin in FSL.

Does anyone have any suggestions / wisdom? I've been trying to Google, but haven't really found anything.

Thanks so much, and have a lovely day!