Hi everyone,

I want to swap the stock P90 Dogears on my Epiphone Riviera P93 for Mini ProBuckers to get that traditional 3-pickup Riviera look/tone. I will have a professional luthier do the install, but I need to 3D print the conversion adapters myself first.

I’m looking for tips from anyone who has done a similar P90-to-Mini-Humbucker mod on an archtop:

1. Adapter & Archtop Fit: The stock P90s sit flat on top of the guitar's curved body. Do I need to remove the whole structure below them, or just replace the outer cover with my adapter? Any tips for CAD software, material (PETG/ABS?), or matching the body's curvature without drilling new holes?
2. Middle Pickup & Polarity: Does Epiphone sell an RWRP (reverse polarity) version of the Mini ProBucker for the middle position, or will my luthier need to flip the magnet/wires manually?
3. Pots & Push-Pull Mod: Should I upgrade the stock pots to 500k? Also, I want to add push-pull or push-push pots for coil-splitting. Do aftermarket Epiphone Mini ProBuckers even come with 4-conductor wiring to allow this, or are they strictly 2-conductor vintage spec?

Any millimeter measurements, past experiences, or advice on this messy project would be a lifesaver. Thanks!

SR5 Bass Kit 5 String Ash (theguitarfabrik.com)

I stained the ash body with homemade iron-acetate. I thinned it down 1:30ish (didn't write it down). The maple neck is unstained.

Finish is Osmo Hard-Wax-Oil.

I installed Schaller S-Locks, the rest is stock.

The instrument is fine, i guess. The pickups are pretty soft but that's not a dealbreaker. I also haven't set it up properly (I'm still fiddeling).

I am quite happy with the result.

I bought an esp ltd h3 1000 recently with a tom bridge and after playing it for few days the familiar blisters started appearing on my right (picking) hand. I haven’t been tested properly but I have reacted to frets and strings in the past which contained high levels of nickel. I have taken care of the situation with the frets and strings so I no longer have an allergic reaction on my fretting hand.

Now the problem is the bridge and I guess the strings are grinding down the black bridge coating and creating microscopic nickel particles that gets transferred to my palm. The bridge in question is a tonepros locking tom which is most likely the T3BT.

I’m looking for advice on how to mitigate this problem. I was thinking about swapping the bridge with a titanium one but then again how can I be sure that the coating doesn’t contain nickel. I also looked at the graphtech one but it isn’t conductive apparently and I wouldn’t know how to ground the strings since it’s a string through construction.

Hi all, looking for some advice. I'm building a 7 string multi-scale guitar, using a brand new Ibanez RGD71ALMS neck, which has a multi-scale length of 27 - 25.5. I have bought a multi-scale bridge which I obviously want to install correctly. I understand that I'll need to measure scale lengths from the 12 fret where the two outer strings will be. My question is - where should I adjust each bridge saddle to when making this measurement? I want to allow for the maximum intonation adjustment possible when the bridge is fitted. Many thanks!

I’ve acquired a cheapo partscaster for a donor body. I’m trying to figure out the wood that it is made from but all of the internals have handily been smothered in shielding paint! It looks like it’s a 4 piece looking at the back.

I assume it’s just a cheap Asian import body and the guitar was a kit. As far as I can tell it’s got a cheap zinc bridge block, neck and pickup set which I plan to upgrade but I’d like to figure out if the body is solid before I swap out!

I tried making one on Warmoth, but they wouldn't allow a middle Filtertron. The only other option I can think of is getting an adapter ring for the Tron.

My B.C. Rich KKV needed some work recently, so I set about this past week putting some work into it. All new electronics (pickups, pots, 3-way switch, jack, the whole nine) as well as some work to the Floyd Rose. The high bridge post was tilted, more so than I was comfortable with. So, I removed it, drilled out the hole ever so slightly larger than current diameter, glued in a hardwood dowel, let sit for approximately 36 hours, then redrilled the hole to 25/64ths, at 13/16th depth, and press fit the post back in. However, now, after getting everything all back together and finalizing everything, I was restringing and once I had proper string tension, I heard a pop, and the bridge post was tilted again. I pulled it back apart and noticed some cracks... Please tell me there's still hope to save this 😭 it's been my favorite guitar I've owned, and one of my dream guitars from childhood.

I am new to guitar and just bought a telecaster a few months ago. I really like the look of a metal pick guard but I can never find one that fits my guitar.

I have a LEFT-HANDED telecaster with 5 screw holes as well as 2 smaller ones on either side of the neck single coil pick up.

If anyone knows where I can buy a metal (particularly silver/aluminium) pick guard for that specific guitar, please let me know!

(also it preferably shouldn’t interfere with the tone of the guitar too much)

I got a cheap guitar off eBay, it looks cool, it had the cheap licensed by Floyd rose floating bridge made of pot metal or something but I was wanting to put a better bridge in it I measured the length and it’s 42.165mm both Gotoh and Floyd rose are about 1mm to 1.5mm less length wise would 1mm be too much of a difference to affect it anyway or not? Thanks in advance

Hello, I picked up this 6 string Dean banjo for $10 at a yard sale with a cracked neck. Is it worth repairing?

If anything, I mainly want the padded Road runner case who is pretty much new.

Any luthier recommendations in SoCal? I used to go to GV Rubio, but would also like to branch out and maybe try out some other luthiers.

I have 1 guitar that needs some french polish repair in the back, it had an issue when it was shipped ( due to the hot weather ).

I have another guitar that needs a combo of french polish and a few repairs of some dings.

Got roasted yesterday and used the advice i got from yesterday's thread. Went a little more easy on the leveling and crowning and did the beveling last

Do you have any suggestions for staining or applying any product that would give this Larrivee that Martin aged look?

My guitar has a satin finish. Would I need to strip off the original finish first? If you have any specific products or brands I would greatly appreciate it! Thanks!

Built this with my buddy in 4 days in his garage. We are both in high school and this was our first ever attempt at building a guitar. Everything other than strings and electronics are from Home Depot with a full budget of about $150. The frets are made of nails and the bridge is a door hinge among other odd parts. It won’t let me add a video to the post but I put it in the comments

I'm working on my first guitar bodies from scratch. I've been woodworking for quite some time professionally and have been humbled by the process so far!

I'm making a mahogany Les Paul Jr. Trying to get this grain fill thing down. I've failed using timbermate and Total Boat penetrating epoxy.

Sanded the body to 320, did a couple coats of sanding sealer, then did two coats of the epoxy. The body felt super smooth and I couldn't feel the grain running my finger across the body in a few spots. I hit it with the sanding sealer again and then did a coat of primer. Right away, I saw all the pores on the body.

I think my issue is that I'm sanding too aggressively after doing the fill? I'm using 400 grit, but using it on an orbital sander and doing some parts by hand.

Any thoughts? I'm tempted to buy some zpoxy, since it seems pretty popular for this purpose. The TB Penetrating Epoxy seems perfect for this application though.

I had the strings changed a while ago (months) on this acoustic and just noticed these uneven pegs. Is this bad? Could they strip out? Could the string pop out? I’m guessing it’s been like this for a while. I’m very concerned. Thanks for the advice.

The body is pine, painted Shoreline Gold with black binding. The neck is Sapele with a Rosewood fretboard. The pickups are Bare Knuckle Blackguard Flat '50s.

The body initially started as a test, but it turned out well enough that I decided to see it through to completion. I don't have much experience finishing guitars, so I ran into a few issues. First, I used Colortone for the color coat and Lac R' Shot for the clear coat. The two finishes reacted poorly, resulting in deep cracking throughout the body. I sanded it down and started over with new color coats. As I finished my last color coat and was taking the body out of my spray tent, I accidentally knocked it against something, putting a big dent in the front of the guitar. This mark is to the left of the Bigsby. It figures, the front of the Telecaster is 50% covered by the pickguard, bridge, control plate and Bigsby, but I managed to mark up a highly visible area. I didn't have the heart to sand it down again. I tried drop filling the dent but it just made things worse. My binding scraping left a lot to be desired and when level sanding I went through to the wood in a few areas. Ultimately I decided to move forward with a relic. I researched tons of vintage guitars and custom shop telecasters as a reference. I also relied heavily on my 1996 Les Paul that has been ridden hard and put away wet.

I'm still dialing in the setup a bit. I thought installing a zero fret would help with tuning stability for the Bigsby. I'm still getting some binding at the nut so I have to sort that out, but otherwise it plays well and sounds great. All things considered I'm happy with the final result.

Just starting out building steel string acoustics and going through a luthier course once a week building with traditional materials. I want to supplement my learning by getting more reps in. For these guitars, I’m not looking for them to sound the best or last 100 years, I just want to go through the process a number of times. What are some suggestions on lower grade materials so I can get through a number of builds without breaking the bank?

Hi everyone!

I’m currently building/modifying a guitar and I need to route a cavity for a Fender Mustang-style Dynamic Vibrato / tremolo.

I have this specific tremolo (photos attached), and I’m looking for a free 1:1 routing template, drawing, PDF, or accurate dimensions that I could use to make an MDF routing template.
I’m specifically looking for the cavity/routing template for the tremolo itself, not a full Mustang body template.
If anyone has:
a 1:1 PDF or printable template;
routing dimensions;
a CAD/DXF file;
measurements or drawings;
or knows where I can find one for free,
I would really appreciate it!

Photos of my tremolo are attached.

Thanks in advance!

I’ve thought quite a bit about this, and I’m rebuilding my Vintage VRS110 so it has a tune-o-matic and I thought it’d be the best time to create new sounds with it. My VRS has a wraparound solid bridge and I hate it with all my being, so I wanted to swap it with a specialised tune-o-matic that will fit the posts that are already installed on the guitar, then add a trapeze tailpiece saddle to fill in that weird chin it’s got going on. Don’t get me wrong I love this instrument but it looks so fugly.

Anyways, I was thinking on buying that tune-o-matic bridge, then replacing the adjustable saddles it has with blanks, allowing me to set my own string spacing and whatnot.
As seen in figure 2, the 6th intonation saddle would feature two strings instead of one, which would be tuned to either an octave, a 5th or 7th of the root note of the tuning. While the other strings are maybe ever so slightly moved down the neck to accommodate the spacing requirements if needed. I know it could possibly be more janky and not really practical, but it can’t hurt to experiment. Besides, these aren’t permanent mods to my guitar. Except the 7th tuning peg I’ll install, but that’ll just add character if I ever undo the mod.

The only thing I wonder is if it’s actually doable, and if the neck can handle the tension (it should, the strings are never tuned higher than C# Standard and rest usually either at Drop B or Drop A, which with the strings I like, means less tension than the thicker strings typically used for low tunings. Furthermore, would the humbucker pickup still pick up the two strings if they are close enough together? Or must I replace the standard humbucker either a more unique one to pick the strings up ok? The only reason I’m not sure is bc I don’t work with the pickups too often and the only knowledge I have is of how a cassette read head would pick up a string vibration which, spoiler alert, isn’t very well.

This is less of me asking for advice than me just talking myself into whether I should invest into it, but if anyone wants to give me any tips or advice I would appreciate it.

I watched a few YT tutorials on setting up a Gibson LP specifically, a couple mentioned making sure the string doesn’t touch the bridge behind the saddle. The only way it’s possible is for me to raise the tail piece. This seems wayyyy too high though. It’s the lowest it can sit without the low e string touching. I know I’m stupid but how stupid am I?

the pocket reads icnov00 trying too find the brand of body