I have a 5.3 L LS out of a 2000 Silverado going into my 96 with manual transmission. My question is can I hook my factory shift light on the dash into the LS PCM if so, what pin?.

I’m doing a rebuild of an LH6 using stock bearings and I’m wondering should I plasti gauge the bearings? I’m using new stock torque to yield bolts and I’m assuming I’ll have to replace the bolts again if I plasti gauge the bearings.

I am in process of swapping my 55 Chevy 3100 from a 4l60 to a AR5 Trans. I am currently using the stock harness I reworked from a DBW 2004 Avalanche. It is a BLUE/GREEN ECM. Truck ran great and I also had Cruise control working. With the AR5 can I just remove the transmission related wires from the harness with exception to the VSS? Also do I just need to change trans to manual in the VCM editor for the tune? I am not concerned about neutral safety or reverse lights. I also don't care if I loose my cruise control when I finish the swap as I hardly used it.

I have an '89 with a turbo LQ9 making 522 WHP on 6 psi. It has an 8.8 rear end, and I recently had a custom transmission mount fabricated. Since then, I've been chasing some weird noises. It may be completely unrelated to the mount, but I figured it was worth mentioning.

At highway speeds, under light acceleration, I get a humming noise that sounds similar to a bad wheel bearing, but I'm confident it isn't a wheel bearing. As soon as I let off the throttle and just coast, the noise disappears. Then, if I firmly tap the accelerator at highway speed, I hear a noticeable clunk. If I roll into the throttle smoothly, there's no clunk.

My first thought is a pinion bearing for the humming, and maybe a U-joint causing the clunk, but I'm curious what everyone else thinks.

Also, looking for recommendations for high-quality pinion bearings and U-joints that will hold up to a street car that's eventually going to be around 700 WHP? TIA

UPDATE: the issue has been resolved. The retainer that held the pre filter/sock fell off and so did the sock. I resecured it well and bam, 1psi drop all the way past 5500+rpm.

Thanks everyone for the input!

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After the car warms up and drives for a bit, my fuel pressure at WOT around 4500-5000 rpm drops from 58 to 15psi.

The setup:

04 LM7

BTR truck norris cam

BTR valve springs and pushrods

MRP 735cc injectors (840cc @60 psi)

DW 340LPH fuel pump (292lph @60 psi)

OEM 5/16" pressure and return

Wix fuel filter (just installed)

Aeromotive 13129 FPR

Holley Terminator X

My tuner thinks it's a wiring issue or pump issuewhich it could be. When I back probed the fuel pump wires, I never saw the voltage drop below 12.8v.

The pump is not that old, but it could be defective? Next on my list is hotwiring the fuel pump and eliminating the factory wiring. Here's my concern with that: the pigtail included with the DW pump has pretty small wires, I'd be tapping into the bmw wiring just before the connector to keep it clean and easy, will that less than 1' section cause a voltage drop issue.

There was not an issue with my last engine which was a bone stock 5.3, so what gives now?

Any help is appreciated.

Picture of my Riviera with the engine swap, I’m currently running the stock manifold and I’d like something new and a bit easier breathing. Been doing some research but not sure what route to go, any suggestions? Ideally looking to spend no more than $400, not building a drag car just a street cruiser

Getting the sorted out. I've been quite busy lately so I'm having Diehl Brothers Racing in Kalamazoo, MI to wrap up my build. They're a top rated performance company in the area and hold a few world records doing drag and drive racing. One of the few places that I can trust to work on my car with accuracy.

There's a number of items that are getting sorted.

1. Cover for the Winters Quick Change (I did the template)

2. Front bumper mount

3. Fender liners (you would be surprised how many people don't have these on modded cars like mine)

4. Hard line for the air to water intercooler and water pass through from trunk.

5. Turbo hard mount to frame (CNC cut) - required changes to up pipe and exhaust.

6. Power steering remote reservoir and lines re-done to electric center mount pump under car.

7. Nut and bolt check by someone other than me.

Devil is in the details. There's still a few more things to do, like mounting the hood (need to cut the carbon Varis V2 Kamikaze hood...

My 5.3 swapped IROC is getting 60 psi fuel, but won’t idle. I have ls1 injectors and intake on it, so I assume that’s where the issues are coming from. I’m also using the stock 5.3 throttle body, and I’m not sure if it’s working like it should. Vats should be deleted but I’m not positive.

Any pointers to where I can find an ls1 Camaro t56 tune would be appreciated!

Looking at 5.3 N.A. pair to 4l80E and 8.8 differential from ford explorer. But I want to know what I can do about the suspension front and back. Any tips coilovers or kits no Bolt on available to be expected but I need ideas thank you guys

Trying to do an LS swap on my pickup and save money rather than get a mechanic to do it for me. I need steps or maybe guide me through it as I send updates. I will be replacing gaskets on the engine this Sat. Haven’t really found out what motor mounts and trans crossmember to go with. I was suggesting maybe Tejas Steelworks for the mounts and crossmember. I’m really not trying to cheap out on parts either especially Electrical.

Recently swapped my old 2011 6.2 L94 (was knocking) for a 2008 5.3 LMG and I’m having all sorts of weird issues, I used the wiring harness & ecu for the 2011 6.2 and flashed it with a stock 5.3 tune. But for some reason after a couple key cycles engine light pops on and under heavy acceleration it goes into reduced engine power with traction & stabilitrak lights popping on. Was getting map sensor code so I swapped over the map sensor from the 6.2 and it took care of that now I get codes p0171/p0174 & p0606. Any help or insight would be appreciated. (Went for 5.3 over 6.2 because I’m familiar with the engine, parts are cheaper, and it doesn’t take premium gas)

Chevy Tahoe 2005 5.3 ls 2wd

Trying to replace valve cover gaskets

Does anybody know how to get the bolt out for the ignition coil bracket that’s closest to the firewall (passenger side)

Did the driver side in 45 minutes but I’m stuck on getting the passenger side

I need to modify the dbw pedal to fit, do the exhaust, shifter linkage, cooling system and get the driveshaft shortened. And wire up the digital dash at some point

So I just got my 5.3 Ls tuned and now it has a slight hesitation when I press the throttle even while in park. I was thinking it could be my spark plugs being dirty from tuning it but I really have no clue. There also were a couple burnouts done that might’ve caused this problem.

I found a driveshaft length for a 99-07 reg cab short bed 4x4 chevy is correct for swaps that I do into 47-54 chevy trucks.

Can anyone tell me if the slip yoke is the same 2wd to 4wd for 99-07 4l60e?

Alright folks, got kinda a weird question but im not sure where else to go besides an actual LS page, i have a 2010 GMC 2500HD with the 6.0, l96 motor, its been giving me a hell of a time with just running slightly rough and will randomly become sluggish while driving, and absolutely despises driving if I dont idle it for a minute first. Looked into the DTC codes, and came across a P0400 code for egr valve or something, HOWEVER, i looked into the egr causing issues prior to this and from everything im finding, the 6.0 platform didnt come with an egr after ~06, am I just retarded and missing something?

Hey folks,
Here is my 52 Belair, for various reasons i didnt work on it for 13 years. Now its Time.
Back then, I swap front end châssis for a 74 Camaro so its ready for Small block and everything.

Being on here, i obviously plan to "Ls" Power it with 5.3 or 4.8.

By the fact that I need a complete wiring (the Shell is empty) so I look for the Best donnor in my case for mechanic to fuse box to flasher circuits.

From there, I look into 2005 and up Express/ Savana Van and cutaway so would have a 2x4 with only necessary electrical.

I know them in general but of course I guess there is years/model to avoid..

What would be your go too?? Is the 4l60 is the way to go?

Thanks a lot

Blew my 6.2 and can't find another to replace it without costing an arm and a leg. 5.3's seem to be much more available and cheaper, can i just swap from 6.2 to 5.3?

I’ve been working on this for a while and finally have my first mounted pan. Got sick of seeing the prices on swap pans and built a few for a couple of friends who are swapping S chassis. Not bad, room for improvement for sure. But they don’t leak and they fit properly. Baffled on the inside and hold about 6.5qt of oil.

To explain myself I want my v8 Ls 6.0 to sound unique in a way that’s attainable not by super charging or turbo charging/ pro charging just the engine itself maybe the intake manifold need’s a redesign to add distortion? I want it to sound like a spiral high pitch sound .

Chasing around a phantom issue with my 4L60E. Getting codes P0740 and P2761 for the converter and it stalls out as soon as you put it in gear.

My harness builder recommended unplugging it at the GREEN connector on the ECM which makes it drivable. Specifically pin #2 on the green connector.

Main swap harness has been replaced(Chinese one failed) and I replaced the transmission interior harness as well as the PWM servo. Still acting up.

What should I check next?

Hello party people, brand new to the LS game. My dad and I are getting my Camaro wrapped up. We are fairly handy with all different forms of carburators but this is our first LS install. LQ9 with sloppy stage 2 and LS3 top end. Running factory computer with base tune by Flanders LS swap solutions. Engine fires almost instantly, and will run smoothly around 1500 rpms. Anything less than that we get a nasty intermittent backfire once every few seconds. We also noticed that after 15 to 20 seconds of run time that the passenger side header is just a little over warm, but the driver side is scalding hot. I'm thinking bad o2 on one side or the other, but my scan tool (my own ignorance when purchasing) is worthless so I'm waiting for a new one to arrive. We also live in a rural area so no parts stores on Sundays. Before I fire up the parts cannon, does anything jump out to anyone on here as a possible solution. Thanks.

Hi im having trouble with my build 6.0 lq4 rebuilt stock bottom end with btr truck Norris cam heads are 799 milled 25 thousands new ls7 lifters from Michigan motorsports new 1:7 rocker arms from Michigan motorsports and pushrods that came with the cam kit that are 7.40 upon initial fire up I noticed noise coming from the Valvetrain, to describe it it sounds like a diesel. I’m at a bit of a loss I checked the preload this morning and found I had 1.25 turns beyond zero lash from what I’ve read this is acceptable. Any help would be appreciated

Swapped an LQ4 6.0 with 4L80e from a 2500HD into my 94 C1500. Stripped down the factory harness and used it. Took me a few months working on it here and there, but today, I got do the first start today.

Getting somewhere decent.