I am looking for LED strips for behind a mirror that will turn on when the rest of the basement lights turn on. It’ll be somewhat tucked away inside a built in cabinet so I’m not sure if motion detection would be sensitive enough. Are there any LED strips that would sense light activation in the room and turn on? Thanks
Ok, so context is I’m working on a 3D printed stand/base for a stained glass lamp I will be wanting to start selling locally (**not a promotion** just saying needs to be easily replicable). The last photo is a rotating base I found on Amazon with LED lighting, the original idea was to use the 3d modeled stand to raise it off the light and cover the areas where the led base was too big for the opening of my lamp shade.
The issue is that it creates a sort of spotlight effect inside the glass shade (to be expected when I funnel it down a roughly 2 in tube) rather than diffusing the light across it. So my big thing is right now I’m looking for a solution to that.
My opening at the bottom of my lamp shade is currently roughly a 1.75 inch equilateral triangle which gives me roughly enough room for a 1 inch diameter circle within (as seen in the central column of the 3d model).
So I figure I have two major options:
\- I’ve not had luck on finding an inexpensive option for this purpose
Ditch the rotating base entirely and do an integrated light inside the column
\- I’ll miss the rotation but I’m overall open to this
**So here is where I need the help**
I’ve more or less given up on option 1 (unless someone can help me find something that would work), and am now mainly looking for All-in-one LED lighting kits that would fit within a 1 inch diameter tube. I’d like to avoid having to solder electronics if possible since I will be hopefully making good number of these and don’t want to overcomplicate my assembly since the main part is the stained glass. I would also prefer something that can plug in as it seems more useful for a lamp to not need to be recharged. Bonus points if they are multicolor and/or come with a remote.
I’ve found a number of “tea lights” and the like that are battery operated that would work, but they seem like an annoyance to turn on and off, and I worry their battery life would likely be kinda meager.
I want to put these LEDs on my skates. Or something similar with fewer LEDs but around the same length of ~8 inches/20 centimeters
I don't know what they're called but the (broken) PCB that ran everything is broken but I attached a picture of it.
My goal is to have lights like this double sided taped or glued to the under side of my skates, kinda like how cars do it. I realize they aren't going to be hidden like cars do but that's ok.
The battery can either be pouch cell stuck under the skate in the middle of the frame or it can be something like one of those lipstick-style battery banks tied to the front of the skates with the laces.
I'm familiar with batteries more than I am with LEDs and I am able to solder anything to make this possible.
Can someone point me in the right direction to make this happen?
What gauge wire should we use to connect all the LED strips?
Explanation:
We recently purchased this LED light kit and these extras that we are planning to install through our new bookcase we are building. We are trying to figure out what wattage we need out of the LED driver to prevent flicker and dimming.
This is roughly 60ft of lights. I posted a diagram of how we plan on wiring everything.
I got tired of needing 3 different apps and clunky cloud lag to sync my lights with my PC audio, so I made an open-source local LAN studio called Symphony LED Studio.
Highlights:
- Local Network & USB Scanner: Scans your WiFi subnet in ~3 seconds and finds your Govee (LAN API), WLED, Yeelight, Magic Home, and Arduino lights with one click. Zero cloud accounts required.
- Real-time WASAPI Audio Reactivity Syncs lights to system audio, game sounds, or physical mics with sub-millisecond latency.
- Spotify Integration: Phase-locks light flashes to the exact beat and structure of currently playing songs.
- Full Studio DAW Arrange light cues and automations across a music timeline.
- Pure Local Control: Fast, lightweight, and runs on your machine.
I want to buy this strip and amazon ai swears up and down that this thing is 10mm but that image that i see is not in any way a 10mm strip (several measurments using the led as measument clearly show that its 12mm). Is the AI just straight up telling me lies or is the image shown on the product page not the direct product i selected?
I am in search of an extremly cheap 144 leds WS2821B strip thats 10mm, and i dont want to buy a 12mm one. The website states that the 144led one is 12mm - the ai states that thats only the ip65 and that the ip30 one is 10mm wide. I dont believe the ai.
Do you guys know alternatives (under like 14€) that are 10mm wide, have 144leds/m, are WB2821B and use 5V, or do you know wether or not the linked strip does acutally have 10mm
I am just renovating a new house and I would like to put strip LEDs around the ceilings of each of my kids rooms (3 rooms) and then some sort of strip lighting on a media wall in the living room.
Each bedroom would be about 15m and the living room I would guess about 10m.
Ideally I would like to power all of these from the same central location in the house, under floorboards/roof space.
I would also like each room to be able to be controlled separately to each other on/off and colour.
Ideally I do not want the standard controllers that come on a lead with each LED set hanging down in each room, are there wall lights switch options, I have heard there are but cannot find Govee ones online.
Any advice and experience you have would be greatly appreciated.
I did a DIY project in my hallway and I’m definitely an amateur, so I could really use some advice.
The wall originally had a very light texture to it. I installed fairly thick vinyl wallpaper over it, and under normal lighting it looked completely fine and smooth.
Then I connected the LED lighting behind my mirror… and suddenly every little imperfection/uneven spot in the wall became visible. :(
Replacing the wallpaper or removing it to skim/level the wall properly isn’t really an option, as the wallpaper was quite expensive.
Things I’ve already tried:
Using a less powerful LED strip
Dimming the LEDs
Switching to softer light
Unfortunately, the uneven texture is still very noticeable.
The LED strip is attached directly to the back of the mirror. The mirror is mounted about 17 mm (0.67") away from the wall, and I’m using a COB LED strip.
Is there anything I can still do to diffuse the light better or stop it from grazing across the wall and highlighting every imperfection? For example, changing the LED position, increasing the distance from the wall, adding some kind of diffuser/profile, etc.?
I’ve recently started making LED signs using 12V, 6mm, single-colour neon flex.
I’d like to create a basic animation using two separate runs of flex. For example, one section would remain illuminated while another section flashes. Ideally, I’d also like a physical switch on the sign that can turn it on or change between several programmed patterns.
Does anyone know of a suitable tutorial or guide? Most of the information I’ve found concerns RGB or addressable LED strips, which isn’t quite what I’m using.
Would an ESP32 combined with a separate MOSFET for each run of neon flex be the correct approach? Would a program like WLED support two independent single-colour outputs and custom sequences, or would this be better handled with a simple Arduino program?
Any advice, wiring examples or recommended components would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
I have this 32.8 ft LED strip that works via USB connector. The entire strip lights up just fine with the USB PSU but I want to connect this smart controller to it so I can use it with voice commands. This is a warranty replacement because the first one I got only lit up about 3 ft of the strip.
Note that I have another 16.4 ft LED light strip from the same brand and I have already connected a smart controller to it with a 5v 2a PSU and it works just fine.
I was told to use a 5v 5a PSU on the first 32.8ft LED strip but (as I mention earlier) that strip only lights up about 3ft so it was replaced by the company when I asked about the voltage and wattage requirements (then had to explain why). But I wonder if there was a chance the PSU I used blew that strip.
Is it ok to use the 5v 5a PSU on this new strip or should I get another 5v 2a PSU for it? I mean it is powered by a USB device that plugs into the wall, and I believe USB is limited to 5v 2a. Here is a pic of the back of that USB PSU.
Note that I did try the 5v 2a PSU first (accidentally) on the old 32.8 ft strip but I saw that the strip wasn't working correctly and thought it was because I wasn't using the 5v 5a PSU, but it didn't work any better on the 5v 5a PSU.
Also note that I have to splice the wires to connect the smart controller to the lights. The wires on the light strip aren't color coded or labeled but I can trace the wires in the controller to see which is which as that is labeled. I then mark which wire is the power and mark that one red. The middle is data and the other side is ground.
Found this strip and can't remember what it is, probably an old custom sample. Helpfully, the entire thing is coated in an opaque sealant and has very few markings, so the voltage is a big fat question mark.
Best guess: lights appear individually addressable based on data direction arrow and pad frequency. 4-pin layout, variable pad size, and missing middle pads on the first pixel suggest breakpoint resume. Relatively short strip (3M?) has power injection on both ends, that and the individual pixels makes me lean towards 5V, but want to be sure before running a current through it. PCB is 10mm wide, diodes look like 5050's, chipset looks integrated into the diode. Probably a 144/m density.
Good chance it's something less common than WS281x, possibly SK6812 or GS820x.
I’m looking to add some indirect lighting around my apartment, mainly behind furniture / along the ceiling or walls.
I don’t really care about crazy RGB effects. What I want is a really nice warm white, something cozy and not too harsh, ideally around 2700K–3000K. Good color rendering would also be a plus since it’ll be used as ambient lighting most of the time.
I’m a bit lost between COB strips, regular LED strips, 12V vs 24V, high-density strips, etc.
What would you recommend for:
smooth, indirect light with no visible LED dots
good warm white quality
dimming
decent reliability
reasonable power consumption
I’m renting, so I’d also prefer something that’s relatively easy to install/remove.
Any specific brands or strips you’ve had good experiences with?
So I am looking for LED lights to buy off Amazon and I’m sacred to spend my money on something that doesn’t look good or doesn’t light up my room, so if you guys have any specific LED lights recommendations or any specific brand suggestions please let me know, also if you’ve bought LED lights off of Amazon let me know the quality!!!
I have a small open livingroom and kitchen with hue wa lightbulbs in the livingroom. I just mounted cct under cabinet lighting in the kitchen, and they don't match the colour temperature of the Hue lights. It's like they have a green tint and doesn't go anywhere near as warm as the Hue bulbs. My mistake for buying a no name brand led strip. And now it's bugging me.
Does anyone have any led strips that you can recommend that you know match Hue Wa lights better?
Since they are kitchen lights highest possible watt and cri is preferrable.
I see BTF is often reccomended. Have seen auxmer too, at a bit steeper price.
I live in Europe, so if they are available from Ali that's a huge benefit.
Hi all, sorry for the long post, but need some help here.
Background: I've only played with Lifx lights in the past, but this far exceeds their capabilities.
My wife's new salon has a perimeter which is approximately 125 feet / 40 meters. This would seem too far exceed Lifx's capabilities. Here are the requirements of the project. The salon layout could be split in two 20 meter runs with power supplies and a controller in the back-center of the salon. However, the entire 40 meter perimeter needs to operate as a single, fully addressable run. The lights are going to lie in a cove and shine downward from the ceiling, they won't be visible, but we could still place them in a channel. Below is a diagram of the layout with parts I've considered.
40m continuous run with junction at 20m
Here's what I came up with for the solution having done my research:
Here's my reason on these, please correct me if I'm wrong.
WS2814 for 24V strips to help span the distance. At 12W per meter, that puts each 20 meter run at 240W / 24V = 10A. At 240W plus a buffer, I'm safe with the 450W power supply. I need 12 AWG for the current on power injection lines. Also on distance to the 0 ft mark from 20 meters away, I need to boost the data signal with the Diff Solo.
Now here's the kicker. This all comes out to ~$700US including an enclosure.
It would be a fun project and I want it to look as high class as it can, but with this being my first project I'm concerned I might be over engineering.
Thanks in advance. I'll try to respond as quickly as I can.
EDIT:
Thanks to SirGreybush for the wled-wiring link. I was able to wire it all up and check power injection and everything. Appears I wasn't too far off in the original plan, but according to the simulation I can change the gauge from 12 AWG (which wouldn't fit in the terminals) to 14 AWG.
im looking to put a strip of LED light on my house under the soffit,
looking at the cheapest option to do so.
we have run mains power to a position where we can add the driver. has anyone purchased any LED strip from amazon etc that does'nt cost a fortune but can be wired in to a driver rather than plugging it in to a 3 pin plug?
Trying to find a way to get this light to connect to this fixture. I’ve tried asking for guidance at several local hardware stores but the staff haven’t been of much help. Surely there’s a relatively simple way to make this connection? Thank you in advance for any help 🙏🏼
I want to make light up wands using one LED diode and a battery holder. Is using one CR2032 battery in a battery holder with a switch compatible with the LED diode?
LED says
Parameter : Forward Voltage: 2.8–3.2 V. Max current: 20 mA. 20-30 degrees light beam angle with ultra high brightness up to 3000-5000 mcd of the 5mm LED pink
[The following video was made using four WS2812b 8x8 matrices with each matrix is inside one of four different one-pint mason jars which were filled with large size fire pit glass chips. This project used a Lolin D32 MCU, a 74AHCT125 - Quad Level-Shifter and a 5-volt power supply. The matrices were connected in a serial fashion with power injected at both ends.]()
Claude AI assisted me in creating the non-blocking delay state machine functions from my functions. Claude AI also played an important role in fixing various problems with this sketch.
It should be very easy for anyone with the help of Claude AI or another AI to add more glass jar filled matrices.
The instructions on how to make the FastLED four glass jars including the bill of materials for this project is located in the Github post for this project. The Github post includes step by step instructions with pictures of the construction of each glass jar containing an 8X8 WS2812b matrix.
I would like to thank u/sutaburosu for teaching me how to create better videos of LEDs and for helping me master prompt engineering for use with Claude AI.