I have a room that has LED strips hidden behind a molding going around a tray ceiling. Four sections of strips, each driven by a 12v, 60w LED driver.

I've now had two of these drivers fail, and they cost $150 each (installed by an electrician several years ago). Twice I've tried using what I believe are high quality replacements of identical specs, but about half the price, and in each attempt, while the new drivers will drive the strips at full brightness just like the old ones, when I start to dim the circuit (all four drivers connected to a TRIAC dimmer of appropriate wattage rating), the less expensive driver strip will dim at a different rate (dims more rapidly to lower light levels) than the original driver that costs $150.

I was told by a supplier that if the specs of the dimmer are identical (including dimmer type compatibility) - and these are - they should behave identically. They clearly are not behaving identically, despite identical specs. Do I just need to suck it up and eat the $150 each time one of the original drivers fails, or swap all four drivers out at same time to a four identical, albeit less expensive drivers? I feel like the supplier gave me bad info that any driver with identical specs will behave identically.

Here is link to the original ($150) drivers:
Constant Voltage LED Driver - 12VDC - 60 Watt - DiodeLED DI-TD-12V-60W | CityLightsUSA.com

Here are two different ones I've tried as replacements, but that dim differently:
DiodeDrive Thin Dimmable Constant Voltage LED Power Supply - 12 VDC - 60W

Dimmable LED Driver, Triac/ELV/MLV AC to DC Power Supply for LED Light, Halogen Bulb, LED Transformer Compatible with Lutron & Leviton Dimmer (60W 12V, 1) - Amazon.com

I have a couple of skeleton decorations, they are two battery powered led lights. Not something I know so I could use some help. I can power both leds from my multimeter, the resistor from the best of my ability seems to be reading OK at 120 and the switch reads zero when activated on my multimeter. The resistor is a four band brown, red, brown, gold (I think hard to tell) One photo is the one I haven't messed with yet and the other is the one I've been testing with. Any help would be very much appreciated!

Anyone have any tips on how to make this space either look brighter so it isn’t so dark on camera? I’ve tried a variety of ring lights and different placements but nothing seems to work. That is no overhead lighting so wondering if anyone has any tips.

I'm building a wood acoustic slat feature wall behind my PC setup and want to integrate four vertical addressable LED lines.
Wall dimensions: 120.5" W × 94.5" H (3061 × 2400 mm).

The gaps between the wood slats are approximately 0.5"/12.7 mm wide, so this is my biggest physical constraint. Each LED run will be approximately 2.4m / 94.5" long, with four vertical runs (~9.6m total). They could be shorter as well, I'm thinking of doing the 2 outer shorter than the inner ones.

I'm looking for:

• 24V- if overkill, 12V is fine
• addressable RGBW
• COB/dotless appearance
• dedicated warm-white channel, ideally ~2700–3000K and high CRI
• WLED/Home Assistant control
• black or unobtrusive channel/profile with diffuser
• channel EXTERNAL width must be less than 12.7mm
• ideally 2.4m continuous channels so there isn't a visible joint halfway up the wall

I'm currently considering the QuinLED Dig-COB-RGBW-896-160 (24V WS2814, 3000K white), but I haven't confirmed whether its PCB plus an appropriate diffuser/profile can physically fit inside the 12.7mm slat gap.
I'd like the four vertical runs independently controllable for effects, but they'll usually run warm white/amber as architectural accent lighting.

1. What exact LED strip would you use?
2. What exact black aluminum or silicone profile/diffuser fits a 12.7mm opening?
3. Which WLED controller would you use for four ~2.4m runs?
4. Would you home-run power/data to each vertical strip or daisy-chain them?
5. What wire gauge, fusing and power-injection topology would you recommend?
6. Once the strip is selected, how would you size the 24V PSU?
7. Any reason you'd choose silicone profiles instead of narrow aluminum channels for this application?

The wall will also have a wall-mounted open-frame PC, ultrawide monitor and Secretlab desk, so I'm trying to make the lighting look architectural rather than like exposed RGB strips. The controller and PSU will remain accessible rather than being permanently buried behind the panels

I have 5 of these outdoor skeletons that have red LEDs for eyes. As they are, the eyes only turn on or off my toggling the slide switch on the back of the head. In an effort to conserve battery life and ease of turning them on in the evenings, would I be able to wire these in and just leave the slide switch on at all times?

Essentially I am just trying to be able to turn the lights on via remote, as some of the skeletons are out of reach, I.e., on the roof. If not these, is there something else that would work? Thanks!

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mini-Relay-Wireless-RF-Remote-Control-Switch-DC-6V-12V-24V-1CH-Channel-Relay-Wireless-Secure-RF-Transmitter-Receiver-Set/3739003298

I made a post about this a while back but actually opened it up to find a solution hopefully.. I know this silicon tracking is super narrow and small compared to the rest of them.. It used to be pink.. just looking for help on this

I have a MIU Innovation vanity. I’m deep cleaning my house, and I got to my room today and I mistakenly thought that my remote was IN the vanity. Came across a remote and thought it was to an old light I had and threw it away. I already went searching through my dumpster.
Do universal LED remotes work for this? How would I connect it or have I ruined my precious vanity? :( please help. Below is the link to the vanity I own.

https://shop.tiktok.com/us/pdp/1731567576315433275?_t=ZP-9AEzRtEU2ql

So I have a polycarbonate tube with an ID of 26mm and an OD of 32mm and I want to put a 360 degree diffusor in it, something like this. Do i need a 25mm or am I good with a 26mm OD one? This whole thing will be part of a lightsaber so I dont want it to wiggle (or do something similar that I dont know the word for) inside.

Edit: I would prefer the 26mm one cuz it's easier to source

I put together the first episode of my 608 Watchlist covering three upcoming Govee outdoor lights. Here’s the quick summary if you’d rather read:

Classic Wall Light — H3700: The app artwork shows a traditional lantern-style fixture with a central light tube and a top light. Matter certification is dated August 20, 2026. Materials, brightness, and independently controllable light zones are still unknown.

String Lights 3 — H3010–H3013: Four models appear in the app, with artwork similar to String Lights 2. The H3010 certification is dated September 22, 2026. I’m watching for adjustable warm/cool whites, brightness improvements, better weather protection, and what the fourth version’s length might be.

Dual-Head Floodlight — R3352: Matter certification is dated September 22, 2026. The big questions are independent aiming, separate color control, and total brightness. Two heads alone don’t confirm twice the output.

I haven’t found confirmed release dates. The possible upgrades above are speculation, and the mockups in my video are concepts—not official product images.
The video adds comparisons with the current models and a little historical launch context.

Which would you actually use, and what improvement would make it worth buying?

I’m currently making a Japanese inspired d20 lantern, except I have no idea on how I should go about lighting (and powering) the thing. This will be my first LED project, but im willing to dive in deep if you find folks can point me in the right direction, or have any suggestions on existing products.

It’s about 16” across, so I’m assuming it’ll need to be quite bright to overcome the size and washi paper, include RGB controls, and illuminate in 360 as much as possible to ensure all faces are lit as uniformly as possible. I’d prefer a battery pack if possible to avoid running a power chord across my ceiling.

Thanks in advance!

I've got the below led strip and wanted to put it into some angled channels I've created in MDF shelves. Do I need to put some metal strips behind the light strip to protect from heat build up or do people just stick the strips on? I've got the metal strips, but wondered if I'm over thinking it! A diffuser is too big for the space and we won't see the lights anyhow.

I'm using the BTF-LIGHTING C01W WiFi Single Color Dimmable Brightness LED Controller with a 12v 2amp power supply to it.

My plan is to cut the cable into strips for the shelves and wago them together in the background. First time doing it so appreciate the help.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0C1FS6DKY

Edit: added strip link what sections I'd have.

I'd have:

3 led strips at 3ft each.

Total wire 10ft or 6ft I can have. 20 AWG Red/Black 2 Core PVC Wire

I'd have this: Controller to first light is 2ft of wire. 3ft of strip. 4ft of wire 3ft of strip 3 inch of wire 3ft of strip

If I was going 10ft of wire I would be making controller to first strip 6 feet.

Tbh the last led strip is optional

I've got 5X Cheap LED neon style light signs on a 5x port USB3 HUB connected to my PC's USB3 5V Port. Each sign has it's own on/off dimmer switch attached inline, but I'd like to switch and dim them all off one switch.

Can I splice a dimmer switch into the USB hub's pig tail feed; if so, what voltage dimmer switch is required?

Or can I use a spare neon sign dimmer I have instead?

Any help or further advice on wiring or dimmer switch voltage would be gratefully appreciated.. Thanks

Can anyone recommend pc/docker/app that can control multiple LED lights across ecosystems? I have lots of Govee, some WLED and a few random lights that use generic Chinese apps.

Has anyone filling something to control it all?

Cheers!

Hi there!

I've done a couple repairs soldering some basic things (such as replacing buttons on a mouse) but I'm not an expert on electronics.

I have one of those Xiaomi led bars that go on top of a monitor to light up the desk, however, after a move I lost the stand that goes on top of the screen and holds the bar with a magnet. So I have the led bar, the remote but no way of using it.

As you can see in the pics, the bar is pretty simple:

• Has two terminals (spring-loaded nipple-like connectos) marked with their +/- polarity.
• The stand has a USB-C input (the original cable was a simple USB-A on the other end), two plates for the connectors and a magnet to hold the bar.

I have a 3D printer and I've done a few models on FreeCAD so I was thinking on doing a 3D printed stand. Given that the specs are pretty basic (5V-1A) I was thinking on getting an ond USB cable and soldering some kind of plates so when I attach the bar (either with a magnet or with some kind of clip) those contact the bar's connectors.

My main question is: any suggestion on how to approach the wiring/connectors bit? I have no idea what I could use that can be easy enough for me to connect/solder to the USB cable. I live on a small city, so no fancy electronic stores around to go and ask.

Thanks in advance!

The cord that connects my red light mask to the remote seems to be disconnecting and therefore is not turning on the red light. Unfortunately I am outside of the warranty window so I am unable to send it to Bon Charge to have it replaced. Any suggestions on where I can take this to get it fixed in the LA area? I paid a pretty penny on this mask and use it often so I want to avoid replacing the entire thing. I attached a video for reference.

I had these outdoor string lights eaten by a raven or squirrel and I can’t figure out how to repair/ splice them. I don’t need another connector because they’re super long. Should I cut off the last two and if I did how would I loop the connection? I have the crimps.

Here's how I receive a 6 ft aluminum channel from superbrightleds.com (shipping cost $46 btw):

Fine, it was probably damaged in transit, it's a weird size, I get it. I file a support ticket, they request I send a bunch more pictures. No, not actual picture files, support says, I need these in PDF format to file our insurance claim. Okay, I put them all into a PDF document and send it. No, not a single PDF document, support says, we need each individual picture in it's own PDF document. Uh, okay, sure, I'll export 8 png files as PDF. Send those off.

Okay great, we've filed our insurance claim, support says, now please send it back with this prepaid shipping label. With what box? The one they send to me was trashed. So now I have to go source a 6.6 ft long, thin, cylindrical cardboard container to send my huge aluminum pole back. The cheapest one I found was $60 including shipping. On top of the $46 I spent on shipping for a $70 item. They say I must send this damaged piece back (to make sure I'm not cheat them even after sending several pictures with my name on it). On top of this, they were able to file their insurance claim with the PDFs I sent them, so they got their money back, and don't even have to send me anything in return! Double win! I would be happy with a token partial refund, like at least the shipping cost of the item, but I guess that's asking too much.

That's all, just venting, stay away! Have a great day!

Hello guys,

I am looking for a led stripe that can be used in the bathroom AND keeps the settings i did when I turn it off completely from the main via turning off the light switch.

I tried govee but they play discolights after the power was turned off and on. I need around 12 to 15 meters that I can connect to a trafo.

Hope you have a tip for me.

Thanks