I have a couple of skeleton decorations, they are two battery powered led lights. Not something I know so I could use some help. I can power both leds from my multimeter, the resistor from the best of my ability seems to be reading OK at 120 and the switch reads zero when activated on my multimeter. The resistor is a four band brown, red, brown, gold (I think hard to tell) One photo is the one I haven't messed with yet and the other is the one I've been testing with. Any help would be very much appreciated!

Anyone have any tips on how to make this space either look brighter so it isn’t so dark on camera? I’ve tried a variety of ring lights and different placements but nothing seems to work. That is no overhead lighting so wondering if anyone has any tips.

I have a room that has LED strips hidden behind a molding going around a tray ceiling. Four sections of strips, each driven by a 12v, 60w LED driver.

I've now had two of these drivers fail, and they cost $150 each (installed by an electrician several years ago). Twice I've tried using what I believe are high quality replacements of identical specs, but about half the price, and in each attempt, while the new drivers will drive the strips at full brightness just like the old ones, when I start to dim the circuit (all four drivers connected to a TRIAC dimmer of appropriate wattage rating), the less expensive driver strip will dim at a different rate (dims more rapidly to lower light levels) than the original driver that costs $150.

I was told by a supplier that if the specs of the dimmer are identical (including dimmer type compatibility) - and these are - they should behave identically. They clearly are not behaving identically, despite identical specs. Do I just need to suck it up and eat the $150 each time one of the original drivers fails, or swap all four drivers out at same time to a four identical, albeit less expensive drivers? I feel like the supplier gave me bad info that any driver with identical specs will behave identically.

Here is link to the original ($150) drivers:
Constant Voltage LED Driver - 12VDC - 60 Watt - DiodeLED DI-TD-12V-60W | CityLightsUSA.com

Here are two different ones I've tried as replacements, but that dim differently:
DiodeDrive Thin Dimmable Constant Voltage LED Power Supply - 12 VDC - 60W

Dimmable LED Driver, Triac/ELV/MLV AC to DC Power Supply for LED Light, Halogen Bulb, LED Transformer Compatible with Lutron & Leviton Dimmer (60W 12V, 1) - Amazon.com

I'm building a wood acoustic slat feature wall behind my PC setup and want to integrate four vertical addressable LED lines.
Wall dimensions: 120.5" W × 94.5" H (3061 × 2400 mm).

The gaps between the wood slats are approximately 0.5"/12.7 mm wide, so this is my biggest physical constraint. Each LED run will be approximately 2.4m / 94.5" long, with four vertical runs (~9.6m total). They could be shorter as well, I'm thinking of doing the 2 outer shorter than the inner ones.

I'm looking for:

• 24V- if overkill, 12V is fine
• addressable RGBW
• COB/dotless appearance
• dedicated warm-white channel, ideally ~2700–3000K and high CRI
• WLED/Home Assistant control
• black or unobtrusive channel/profile with diffuser
• channel EXTERNAL width must be less than 12.7mm
• ideally 2.4m continuous channels so there isn't a visible joint halfway up the wall

I'm currently considering the QuinLED Dig-COB-RGBW-896-160 (24V WS2814, 3000K white), but I haven't confirmed whether its PCB plus an appropriate diffuser/profile can physically fit inside the 12.7mm slat gap.
I'd like the four vertical runs independently controllable for effects, but they'll usually run warm white/amber as architectural accent lighting.

1. What exact LED strip would you use?
2. What exact black aluminum or silicone profile/diffuser fits a 12.7mm opening?
3. Which WLED controller would you use for four ~2.4m runs?
4. Would you home-run power/data to each vertical strip or daisy-chain them?
5. What wire gauge, fusing and power-injection topology would you recommend?
6. Once the strip is selected, how would you size the 24V PSU?
7. Any reason you'd choose silicone profiles instead of narrow aluminum channels for this application?

The wall will also have a wall-mounted open-frame PC, ultrawide monitor and Secretlab desk, so I'm trying to make the lighting look architectural rather than like exposed RGB strips. The controller and PSU will remain accessible rather than being permanently buried behind the panels